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  1. #1
    DreamerII's Avatar
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    Default serge lutens critique

    I've smelled SL non-export line from the wax samples..

    SL scents are nice to smell, but I still can not find the right one which is worth to have..

    I do not know are they balanced good enough.

    To my mind they are too heady, too sweet
    f.e. Chergui
    Here everybody likes Chergui...I decided to buy it cause ot this "pressure"..
    But I tryed again and said: "No, it's to cloying..''. I like Gaultier's Le Male very much, and I think it's better than Cherhui. (Popularity should not changes the quality of the scent i.e. I am talking about Le Male)
    So I do not know whether it's worth to buy any of them...


    Santal de mysore, Bois Oriental, Bois de Violette, Une bois Sepia - they all have some irritating note

    Fumerie Turque - I am not a fan of these leather, suede scents

    Ambre Sultan - it's nice, but NOT for me..It has some vinegar smell, and this one is bad on my skin

    I can say which are the best ones (best balanced):
    IRIS SILVER MIST-if Dior Homme is French ,spakling light scent, so Iris Silver Mist is papery, calm
    BORNEO1834 - nice patchouli scent..It has something in common with Dior's Eau Noir..

    instead of Borneo - Dior's Eau Noir
    instead of f.e. Douce Amere - Bois d'argent
    it would be cheaper and I think even better
    Last edited by DreamerII; 24th January 2007 at 10:54 PM.
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) F. Malle 1-19 2) Chanel Bel Respiro 3) TF Noir de Noir 4) Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose

    Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel 3) Dominique Ropion

  2. #2
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Encens et Lavande and Iris Silver Mist (and to a lesser extent Muscs Koublai Khan) are the two that I would recommend to people who dont like the rich heavy oriental dynamic of most Lutens fragrances.
    -

  3. #3

    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Hi DreamerII,

    SL isn't for everyone so, if it doesn't work for you, don't sweat it. I'm still undecided about Chergui (although, it smelt great when I wore it today) and I absolutely loathe Ambre Sultan.

    I'm sure you'll find a few that will appeal to your nose and skin chemistry - just keep on testing away!

  4. #4
    DreamerII's Avatar
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp
    Encens et Lavande and Iris Silver Mist (and to a lesser extent Muscs Koublai Khan) are the two that I would recommend to people who dont like the rich heavy oriental dynamic of most Lutens fragrances.
    When my friend and I smelled Musc Koublai Khan - we together said at once that it smells like shi*

    Lavande - is quite nice lavander.. But is it worth taht money
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) F. Malle 1-19 2) Chanel Bel Respiro 3) TF Noir de Noir 4) Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose

    Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel 3) Dominique Ropion

  5. #5
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by DreamerII
    When my friend and I smelled Musc Koublai Khan - we together said at once that it smells like shi*

    Lavande - is quite nice lavander.. But is it worth taht money
    Lavande is a nice fragrance with a clear (and at times smoky) lavander note, but its a bit boring and I find Creed Royal Scottish Lavender and Acqua di Parma Lavanda Tonica to be superior lavender fragrances. If you can find it cheap (or a tester), it might be worth it.
    -

  6. #6
    DreamerII's Avatar
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by Trebor
    Hi DreamerII,

    SL isn't for everyone so, if it doesn't work for you, don't sweat it. I'm still undecided about Chergui (although, it smelt great when I wore it today) and I absolutely loathe Ambre Sultan.

    I'm sure you'll find a few that will appeal to your nose and skin chemistry - just keep on testing away!
    Hey Trebor

    And here is the review which I think was very spot-on

    Chergui:
    I must say that even the best of reviews of this fragrance make it sound like exactly the kind of nauseating mess I try to avoid. This artificial, cloying amber/vanilla era actually closes up my throat sometimes. Thank you for helping me avoid this collision.

    by jimmyfresno , 04 October 2006, United States
    Last edited by DreamerII; 24th January 2007 at 10:52 PM.
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) F. Malle 1-19 2) Chanel Bel Respiro 3) TF Noir de Noir 4) Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose

    Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel 3) Dominique Ropion

  7. #7
    INWAP

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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    I keep seeing this. Folks who really have no use for the SL line but find Iris Silver Mist attractive. I really don't like Iris. I'd need $50.00 an hour to wear Dior Homme. I don't recall any bad experiences with Iris, I just can't stand it.

    you're welcome to look at my wardrobe and if you see any Iris in my collection, out the window it goes.

    this is how I looked when I spritzed Iris Silver Mist the first time.

    I've enjoyed about 10 of the SL's so far. In fact, I need more decants.
    Thank you

  8. #8
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by fredricktoo

    this is how I looked when I spritzed Iris Silver Mist the first time.

    I've enjoyed about 10 of the SL's so far. In fact, I need more decants.
    Thank you
    fredricktoo, I find no similarities at all between Dior Homme and Iris Silver Mist. I cant stand Dior Homme, but I like the evolving note of iris exhibited in iris silver mist - if you dont like the iris note itself, well thats a different story
    -

  9. #9

    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by DreamerII
    instead of f.e. Douce Amere - Bois d'argent
    it would be cheaper and I think even better
    I don't really see a similarity between these two but Bois D'Argent is also expensive, and right now ... very hard to find. I've looked all over for it and the two sources I used to see carrying it, Neiman Marcus and eluxury.com, don't even list it on their website anymore.

    If anyone knows where to find it ... please let me know!

  10. #10
    linnea's Avatar
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    That's the thing about opinions... they're like noses, everybody's got one.

    Just because there's a lot of hype about a particular house doesn't mean you should buy into it. I happen to love Lutens because I love rich spicy oriental fragrances. If you don't like Lutens, move on and find something that you like better. Rather than focusing on a house you DON'T like, why not look at the millions of other fragrances that are on the market? You could even try making your own fragrances.

    Scent is highly personal. Do your own thing. Wear what YOU like.



  11. #11
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    I tried a sample of Dior Homme which is really well thought of here on BN and sells mighty well I imagine. I thought that the top note of Iris was about 75% as strong as Iris Silver Mist.

    I did say I hated Iris. Don't know why. It must be something subconcious.

  12. #12

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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by linnea
    Rather than focusing on a house you DON'T like, why not look at the millions of other fragrances that are on the market?

    Scent is highly personal. Do your own thing. Wear what YOU like.
    Amen to that.

    What's the point with all the whining? Why don't you find scents you enjoy and concentrate on them?
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  13. #13

    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrushka
    Amen to that.

    What's the point with all the whining? Why don't you find scents you enjoy and concentrate on them?
    +1. And there's another, possibly related, phenomenon that annoys the hell out of me. It's the "if I don't get it at first sniff/try/taste/touch/etc. then it's no good" phenomenon. I found Lutens to be worth trying repeatedly. Many of them I was not able to "get" at first sniff. Some are odd or unusual, and an untrained or inexperienced nose just doesn't know what to do with them, so it registers things as a "mess" or "powdery" or "cloying" or "perfumey" and so on. I liken this experience with Lutens (amongst other houses) to red wine, sushi, indian food, jazz music, cigars...all took more than one exposure to enjoy, but all were very much worth the effort as they are now some of my favorite things in life.

  14. #14

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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by robyogi
    +1. And there's another, possibly related, phenomenon that annoys the hell out of me. It's the "if I don't get it at first sniff/try/taste/touch/etc. then it's no good" phenomenon. I found Lutens to be worth trying repeatedly. Many of them I was not able to "get" at first sniff. Some are odd or unusual, and an untrained or inexperienced nose just doesn't know what to do with them, so it registers things as a "mess" or "powdery" or "cloying" or "perfumey" and so on. I liken this experience with Lutens (amongst other houses) to red wine, sushi, indian food, jazz music, cigars...all took more than one exposure to enjoy, but all were very much worth the effort as they are now some of my favorite things in life.
    Another amen to that.

    These things take time...

    BUT: some things you'll never learn to like, and you just have to accept that possibility, too.
    Last edited by tigrushka; 25th January 2007 at 04:28 AM.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  15. #15
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    I dont know why this thread has disintegrated into "just buy and wear what you like" comments when the original poster wanted some help and discussion on the non-typical Serge Lutens fragrances that he might possibly find more to his liking. Serge Lutens is a house which is discussed a lot here and obviously people want to investigate it more even if the usual suspects arent to their liking (they do have a huge catalog for a decade old house)
    -

  16. #16
    ifconfig's Avatar
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Now that I have smelled more than a few Lutens, although nowhere near as many as there are available and certainly not as many as some of the mighty SL'ers around here, I've come to understand something about Lutens: this house is in-your-face! It makes you decide either to like it or hate it, and it does it unapologetically. I like that about things: no middle-of-the-road "nicety" here. I am woman, hear me roar type of thing.

    I really like Chergui. Ambre Sultan is also quite good. Santal de Mysore is so-so and Arabie is almost awful. Here's my (slight) beef with SL: for the price and the exclusivity, I expect every one of their perfumes to blow me away. I'm talking about a hurricane, gale force 10 wind, AK47 killing every mutaf**ker in the room and accepting no substitutes.

    Chergui is definitely a five-star, but I've found it doesn't unearth me, this is not earth shattering. None of the SL's I've tested do that. They are very, very good scents, but to quote Kirsten Dunst in Interview With a Vampire, I want more! For all the hype, Lord, I want more!

    Turin says Bois de Violette is easily the best Lutens product. Is this true?
    De gustibus non est disputandum

  17. #17
    Bois et Musc's Avatar
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    I must admit the Lutens frags I love the most and wear the most are his most feminine and wearable ones ...Clair de Musc, Un Lys and Fleurs d 'Oranger, Bois et Musc.

    I appreciate more complex and original creations like Iris Silver Mist or Santal de Mysore but more for their artistic interest or when suddenly in the mood for something really special.

  18. #18

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp
    I dont know why this thread has disintegrated into "just buy and wear what you like" comments when the original poster wanted some help and discussion on the non-typical Serge Lutens fragrances that he might possibly find more to his liking. Serge Lutens is a house which is discussed a lot here and obviously people want to investigate it more even if the usual suspects arent to their liking (they do have a huge catalog for a decade old house)
    Well, I'm probably wasting my time and energy here, but I say it again:
    no one but you can know what you like/what suits you.

    Why is it such a scary thought? There are no shortcuts, you have to find your own way.

    When you ask for advice you get almost as many different answers as there there are people giving them which doesn't make much difference from starting from the very beginning.

    The best bet is to try them all, or read the notes and then pick the ones to try.

    You might find some you like, but there's no guarantee. There never is.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  19. #19
    Bois et Musc's Avatar
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    Talking Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrushka
    Well, I'm probably wasting my time and energy here, but I say it again:
    no one but you can know what you like/what suits you.

    Why is it such a scary thought? There are no shortcuts, you have to find your own way.

    When you ask for advice you get almost as many different answers as there there are people giving them which doesn't make much difference from starting from the very beginning.

    The best bet is to try them all, or read the notes and then pick the ones to try.

    You might find some you like, but there's no guarantee. There never is.

    I d expect people regularly posting on perfume boards avoid expressing their fear of the unknown and instead admit there are scents they are not able to appreciate and understand.
    After all anyone can go to Sephora take any of the top ten and say it "mells good"! It doesn t make you a "perfume lover" LOL

  20. #20

    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by DreamerII
    I've smelled SL non-export line from the wax samples..
    Reading all that is said before, one remark, your first one, kept stuck in my mind.
    "Trying from the wax samples..."

    My first (and only) disastrous purchase of a Paris' non-export bottle was Fleurs d'Oranger (only three months before it became an export edition).
    Ordered because it was lovely on me in the wax sample, it turned out to be a fragrance not much loved by my skin, to put it mildly.
    I tried a whole year long to love it, testing through every season, unbelieving that a scent that was so highly praised just would not work for me.

    Well, that was such an expensive mistake that from that time on I order liquid samples from every non-export Lutens, even though I receive many wax samples from them.
    Wax samples are nice as a first impression, but in my opinion not more than that.
    For a real good testing you need a generous sample with the real liquid (a point of discussion between Lutens and me).

    The liquid samples will give you a better idea what you can expect and maybe you will even like the scents a lot more than you ever imagined.

    Good luck!!
    The bird of paradise alights only upon the hand that does not grasp

  21. #21
    Bois et Musc's Avatar
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by Riannon
    Reading all that is said before, one remark, your first one, kept stuck in my mind.
    "Trying from the wax samples..."

    My first (and only) disastrous purchase of a Paris' non-export bottle was Fleurs d'Oranger (only three months before it became an export edition).
    Ordered because it was lovely on me in the wax sample, it turned out to be a fragrance not much loved by my skin, to put it mildly.
    I tried a whole year long to love it, testing through every season, unbelieving that a scent that was so highly praised just would not work for me.

    Well, that was such an expensive mistake that from that time on I order liquid samples from every non-export Lutens, even though I receive many wax samples from them.
    Wax samples are nice as a first impression, but in my opinion not more than that.
    For a real good testing you need a generous sample with the real liquid (a point of discussion between Lutens and me).

    The liquid samples will give you a better idea what you can expect and maybe you will even like the scents a lot more than you ever imagined.

    Good luck!!
    Their solid parfums (wax samples) are made in Japan, just like when you visit Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido their paper strips are always dried, it 's the japanese tradition to test perfumes, japanese customers hate top notes.
    Solid parfums are only about drydown notes.

    Riannon I m sorry you had a bad experience with FDO, I feel fortunate I love it and it 's beautiful on my skin, absolutely nothing else gets me that unbelievable level of men compliments.

  22. #22
    trumpet_guy's Avatar
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by ziffy321
    I don't really see a similarity between these two but Bois D'Argent is also expensive, and right now ... very hard to find. I've looked all over for it and the two sources I used to see carrying it, Neiman Marcus and eluxury.com, don't even list it on their website anymore.

    If anyone knows where to find it ... please let me know!

    The last time I visited Saks 5th Avenue they had Bois d'Argent.
    [This was in San Francisco.] You might call their New York
    flagship store and inquire.

  23. #23

    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Lutens is ok.
    The brand Lutens , with the non-, and the export line,is a huge colection.
    Like almost any other brand, there is something for every one. I like orientals, but for me , of the export line, most of them, I have to say, are not for me.The very few that were, (douce amere, ambre sultan, gris clair) I like very much.
    Of the export line I haven't sampled a lot. I took a huge risk by ordering Fumerie Turque blind and , although I like it, it was NOT the holy grail I was expecting, based on the rave reviews I read on several blogs. I wouldn't order any of the non-export ones blind now for sure.
    Also I think , that the exclusiveness of the non-export line(like most niche brands) for the U.S. (and Europe ina lesser way) is one of the reasons of the popularity of this line , . On the original posters thread: it's ok to have critique on the brand, since there are many "I love Lutens threads" too. My god, there are countless "I hate Creed" threads, so why not Lutens? After all it's a discusion board.

    To the original thread starter: funny you love Gaultiers Le Male , it's made by the same company (Shiseido) , maybe even in the same factory. (just kidding )
    Last edited by eric; 25th January 2007 at 10:08 AM.

  24. #24
    DreamerII's Avatar
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    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp
    I dont know why this thread has disintegrated into "just buy and wear what you like" comments when the original poster wanted some help and discussion on the non-typical Serge Lutens fragrances that he might possibly find more to his liking.
    that was my intention
    critique means discussion..
    I wanted to hear the opposite things: f.e. as here was mentioned that wax samples do not reveal their artistry etc..

    f.e. Myrh - it's so strange,nice heavy scent... I can not imagine how a guy could wear it.. But maybe anybody wears it and maybe this scent is beautiful on a man..Myrh was one the most interesting Lutens to me

    Iris silver Mist, Borneo- the most balanced and wearable
    and Myrh - the most intristing, unique
    Last edited by DreamerII; 25th January 2007 at 08:14 AM.
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) F. Malle 1-19 2) Chanel Bel Respiro 3) TF Noir de Noir 4) Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose

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  25. #25

    Default Re: serge lutens critique

    Quote Originally Posted by DreamerII
    When my friend and I smelled Musc Koublai Khan - we together said at once that it smells like shi*
    Wow... you've got some good smelling shi* in Lithuania...

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