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  1. #1

    Default Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    The Scented Salamander blog has just confirmed, via email from the Guerlain shop in Paris, that Mitsouko is indeed dead (ie: they call it "reformulated"). I am officially in mourning. Who will join me in wearing black??

  2. #2

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain


    I am wearing black today...

    Mitsouko R.I.P... it was one of my favourite perfume in my early 20s

    Does anyone know if the parfum / extract has been altered too?

  3. #3

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Everytime they reformulate a scent an angel drops down dead.
    "Voici mon secret. Il est tres simple: on ne voit bien qu'avec le coeur. L'essentiel est invisible pour les yeux."
    - Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  4. #4

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    All Mitsouko's are now missing oakmoss at the very least, but if my nose is correct, they've all been mutilated, the EdT most of all. Thanks for joining me in mourning!

  5. #5

    TaoLady's Avatar
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    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Waaaah!
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  6. #6

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    My first signature scent. *wails*

  7. #7

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    I thought this had been confirmed before. Was it only suspected until now?

  8. #8

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    So far as I know, there was no direct, blunt confirmation straight from Guerlain until now, just hints and waffling around.

  9. #9
    moondeva's Avatar
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    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Discerning noses knew...
    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

    Tabu + Orange Blossom * Hermes Rouge + Bellodgia* Voleur du Roses+ Rose Ispahan * Rasa Extreme + Paris * Wood Coffee + Cafe Noir *

  10. #10

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    My sincerest condolences to all Mitsouko lovers.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    I know. My EDT from last summer lists only treemoss, no oakmoss. There are some citrus topnotes.
    I am going to post a comparison of the old and new formulations later today.
    I have to warn you, it is a "read it and weep" posting.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Please! Say it isn't so!
    "They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night."
    Edgar Allan Poe

    http://perfumum.blogspot.com/

  13. #13

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Condolences to all Mitsouko wearers.

    I'd like to know "when" reformulated bottles started hitting the shelves. Been following the debate here and my bottle of EdT is, so far I know, new, but I would not know "when" is the cut-off for old vs. new formula. Elf said the EdT had been "most mutilated." That's the one I have and well, it's been hard to get to know, let me leave it at that.

    Sad news. I agree that all these reformulations feel very sad, as if the soul of perfumery is being steadily stripped away, being replaced with something else that may "look" the same or even "work" the same but it just doesn't feel the same. Almost like our entire society and culture
    Beauty is but the sensible image of the Infinite.
    Like truth and justice it lives within us; like virtue and the moral law it is a companion of the soul.
    -George Bancroft {1800-1891 American Historian}

    =

    current favorites:
    Balmain Jolie Madame, Serge Lutens Muscs Kublai Khan
    =

  14. #14

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    More political correctness gone wild! When it comes to food, you hear nature knows best...but with fragrance synthetics are safer? and none is the best of all?

    Flapadoodle to this!

    Addendum: Now Smell This linked to Anya McCoy's blog and I was stunned by the ingredients limited by the new inane rules...I had no idea that rose absolute and carnation absolute joined oakmoss as a threat to mankind!!

    Unbelievable! Few perfumes are safe, it seems. Mitsouko today, Joy, No.5, and heaven knows what tomorrow.
    Last edited by Zibeline; 9th February 2007 at 02:22 PM.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain



    I wish one could get the good old stuff (on prescription, if needed) at the pharmacy, with a note inside the box: WARNING! Contains oakmoss.
    Everything passes. Everything changes. Just do what you think you should do.
    --Bob Dylan

  16. #16

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Zibeline
    Addendum: Now Smell This linked to Anya McCoy's blog and I was stunned by the ingredients limited by the new inane rules...I had no idea that rose absolute and carnation absolute joined oakmoss as a threat to mankind!!
    Could you please provide the link?
    Beauty is but the sensible image of the Infinite.
    Like truth and justice it lives within us; like virtue and the moral law it is a companion of the soul.
    -George Bancroft {1800-1891 American Historian}

    =

    current favorites:
    Balmain Jolie Madame, Serge Lutens Muscs Kublai Khan
    =

  17. #17

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    http://anyasgarden.blogspot.com/2007...061509505.html


    I hope this works...the list is dreadful

  18. #18

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    That's a terrifying list. I will have to use my Mitsouko veeeeery sparingly now.

  19. #19

    Thumbs down Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Zibeline
    http://anyasgarden.blogspot.com/2007...061509505.html


    I hope this works...the list is dreadful
    I urge everyone to sign that petition linked to in the article. Beyond a perfumery issue, this really IS a consumer rights issue. Consumers should be allowed to choose for themselves and this is about as forceful on assault on our ability to choose what we purchase/use as I can remember! The analogy to peanuts is a great one. Why are peanuts exempted but oakmoss is not? I would really like to understand the logic behind that one.

    =

    I'm eating a peanut now in protest! Grrrr!
    Beauty is but the sensible image of the Infinite.
    Like truth and justice it lives within us; like virtue and the moral law it is a companion of the soul.
    -George Bancroft {1800-1891 American Historian}

    =

    current favorites:
    Balmain Jolie Madame, Serge Lutens Muscs Kublai Khan
    =

  20. #20

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Yes, another perfume lover on another forum had received an email from Guerlain some while ago that confirmed that Guerlain is conforming to the regulations of IFRA and EU.(they put it like this)

    Now.....to bring you all even more down........

    That ALSO means a reformulation of Vol de Nuit and for different reasons Jicky.

    It all reads as a ploy to spread the use of aromachemicals (synthetics) into production more agressively.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by helg

    It all reads as a ploy to spread the use of aromachemicals (synthetics) into production more agressively.
    Yes, that makes sense but I would like to know WHY. What can we trace this back to. It benefits whom? There must be a financial or politically-based reason for this. Because I see no other way to explain it...
    Beauty is but the sensible image of the Infinite.
    Like truth and justice it lives within us; like virtue and the moral law it is a companion of the soul.
    -George Bancroft {1800-1891 American Historian}

    =

    current favorites:
    Balmain Jolie Madame, Serge Lutens Muscs Kublai Khan
    =

  22. #22

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by helg
    Yes, another perfume lover on another forum had received an email from Guerlain some while ago that confirmed that Guerlain is conforming to the regulations of IFRA and EU.(they put it like this)

    Now.....to bring you all even more down........

    That ALSO means a reformulation of Vol de Nuit and for different reasons Jicky.

    It all reads as a ploy to spread the use of aromachemicals (synthetics) into production more agressively.
    VOL DE NUIT TOO??
    *THUD!* as tinker faints

  23. #23

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by mochi227
    Yes, that makes sense but I would like to know WHY. What can we trace this back to. It benefits whom? There must be a financial or politically-based reason for this. Because I see no other way to explain it...

    Well, isn't it obvious??? *incredulous gaze here*

    It benefits the companies who produce synthetics for perfume-production and we all know that the 6 big perfume-making companies (IFF, Quest, Givaudan etc.) all have chemists up to their sleeves in the research of less expensive and more pliable synthetics for use in perfumes: cut of cost, ease of production. There you have it.
    Naturals do not cost little and they have slight variations from batch to batch.

    Now, if some Big Brother uber-goverment/organisation is insisting that natural essences can cause some trouble it's all the more to the above mentioned companies' benefit. They could feed them with info themselves even!!

    All about the money.....

  24. #24

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by mochi227
    I urge everyone to sign that petition linked to in the article. Beyond a perfumery issue, this really IS a consumer rights issue. Consumers should be allowed to choose for themselves and this is about as forceful on assault on our ability to choose what we purchase/use as I can remember! The analogy to peanuts is a great one. Why are peanuts exempted but oakmoss is not? I would really like to understand the logic behind that one.

    =

    I'm eating a peanut now in protest! Grrrr!
    I think part of the reason is that while one can choose not to eat peanuts, one cannot choose not to breathe in the Mitsouko worn by the woman next to you on a train, plane, or in a store. I recall reading that there is some big increase in respiratory difficulty these days and some have linked this to the use of fragrance in general.

    I think the improvement in diagnostic equipment and the wide availability of inhaled medication, any allergy medication really, could provide another explanation. Pharma markets these things aggressively. Lately I've noticed many overweight people with exertional dyspnea using inhalers...must be the fragrance...lol.

    Pass the peanuts!

  25. #25

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by helg
    Well, isn't it obvious??? *incredulous gaze here*

    It benefits the companies who produce synthetics for perfume-production and we all know that the 6 big perfume-making companies (IFF, Quest, Givaudan etc.) all have chemists up to their sleeves in the research of less expensive and more pliable synthetics for use in perfumes: cut of cost, ease of production. There you have it.
    Naturals do not cost little and they have slight variations from batch to batch.

    Now, if some Big Brother uber-goverment/organisation is insisting that natural essences can cause some trouble it's all the more to the above mentioned companies' benefit. They could feed them with info themselves even!!

    All about the money.....
    Hmm, if you actually read the IFRA site you will see *many* more synthetics than naturals are being restricted. This 'it is a conspiracy against naturals' song is simply untrue, but apparently gaining momentum. The whole cosmetic industry has been up in arms about it for a while, including those who have never used a single natural substance. It affects all of them.

    It is all very well saying that it should be up to the consumer to decide whether they want to risk the possible exposure to harmful substances (and incidentally I personally agree with this position) BUT if the consumer is only educated by half truths and rumours on bulletin boards, instead of doing some minimal research for themselves, then what price safety?

    Is it reasonable to expect the consumer (that's us) to be able to evaluate for themselves whether a product is a risk - in fact is it reasonable to even expect them to know that there is a risk - or is it more reasonable for the manufacturer to stop production of something once it has been shown to be a risk?

    The question that is being raised by Tony Burfield et al is whether the risk assessments on certain aromachemicals found in plant-derived essential oils has been thorough enough to take into account the possible counter effects of other aromachemicals in some oils, and whether there is enough evidence gathered for others. He has never stated that 'natural is safe' or that all these natural-sourced oils are safe. In fact he was one of the first to propose the outright banning of several essential oils, and to highlight the dangers of others. None of this is financially or politically motivated, and it would be a shame to skew what is a very valid and scientific point of view into cartoon soundbites.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Thanks Nutmeg! That offers a lot of clarification

  27. #27

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    I second the thanks to Nutmeg, very intelligent post.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Well, Nutmeg is assuming that a certain amount of infantile characteristics exist in the consuming population, yes?? We do have certain responsibilities to educate ourselves on what we eat, wear, drive, etc.. As my driving instructor said about my Volkswagen, "This is just a guided missile. It's up to you to do the right thing." Yet we allow cars, motorcycles, beer, and heavens, even sex to exist!! So many dangers!! How can we survive??? Oh, the goverment must protect me right now in every possible way!! Help help! Oh, please. Life is a fatal condition. Get over it. Anyone heard of warning labels?? That should satisfy the lawyers.... Now let me buy real Mitsouko.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Well, Nutmeg, I assure you I have done my homework (I do not rely solely on bulletin boards for my information, thank you very much; in fact I am a scientist as well, albeit my expertise is in Humanities) and I know that the synthetics opposed to have already known substitutes that smell the same. Lab manipulation is easier there, you see. So this is not a grave issue as regards perfumery as much as some of the natural essential oils is. (Jasmine grandiflorum anyone?)

    Of course natural does not equate safe, I would be daft to think so. Poison ivy is natural, so are lots of poisons, but you have to take into account the use of each.
    Oakmoss would not hurt the person inhaling Mitsouko next to the wearer in a plane or a supermarket aisle. (unless the wearer sprayed it on them too). It would only affect the wearer.
    On the other hand a ventilating system which is aromatized with a synthetic version of something (which is pretty standard practice in most shops, offices and malls now) could indeed be harmful and it does not segregate between "users" and "non users". We all breathe it in.

    Leaving a leeway to the consumer to choose is the basis of democracy. Otherwise, OK, say I become governor or a legislature body and decide that sex is bad for you and do you know how many VD are out there? The risk is real! There is real scientific evidence to back this up, not just cartoon bubbles and bulletin boards. Promiscuity is dangerous to you and if you're not aware of it, I will ban it any way I can to protect you, people.
    See? We're in for fascism, that way......

    The issue is complex because apart from the safety issue raised by so many sustances today - and I know there has been valid scientific background work on them- those are small potatoes in relation to perfume for ourselves (I mean EDT, EDP, EDC, Parfum/extrait here).
    I think the vast greater issue is the amount of fragranced products that cirulate in the market, much like the ventilating aromas I mentioned above. Almost anything is fragranced today from cleaning stuff to baby wipes, it's really hard to avoid and find genuinely unfragranced products.
    So by elminating those they would be doing the world a great service. But no, those are all allowing companies who produce them to bring out a million permutations of the same product with difference only as regards smell, so that the consumer is swamped with choice and has to buy one of them.
    They attack perfume, which in a puritanical frame of mind seems frivolus, a luxury and a non-necessity.
    That's skewed and hypocritical in my opinion......

    Of course it's just an opinion :-)
    Last edited by helg; 9th February 2007 at 10:13 PM.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by sherrie11
    My sincerest condolences to all Mitsouko lovers.
    Moi aussi.
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  31. #31

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by sherrie11
    My sincerest condolences to all Mitsouko lovers.
    Me too.

    My timing is impeccable -- I just realized oakmoss is my favorite smell in time to find out it's been banned (rose absolute is up there, too) <sigh>

  32. #32

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Thanks for linking to my blog. Here's a link to a very detailed FAQ that I wrote along with some international industry folk. I lost 10 days of my life to this project, but it is worth it, if we can spread the word and get momentum going to try to roll back the illogical, restrictive laws.

    I sent the press release and FAQ to everyone from Natural Health magazine to WWD ;-) If anyone here knows a media source that may pick up on this story, please pass it along:
    http://www.artisannaturalperfumers.o...watch_ifra.htm

    Just click on both the press release and the separate FAQ to download in PDF. If you wish for the Word versions of these documents, so that you can cut and paste info, let me know. Don't write me here, I'm terrible about checking mail here, write me from the Guild site.
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by Nutmeg
    Hmm, if you actually read the IFRA site you will see *many* more synthetics than naturals are being restricted. This 'it is a conspiracy against naturals' song is simply untrue, but apparently gaining momentum. The whole cosmetic industry has been up in arms about it for a while, including those who have never used a single natural substance. It affects all of them.

    The question that is being raised by Tony Burfield et al is whether the risk assessments on certain aromachemicals found in plant-derived essential oils has been thorough enough to take into account the possible counter effects of other aromachemicals in some oils, and whether there is enough evidence gathered for others. He has never stated that 'natural is safe' or that all these natural-sourced oils are safe. In fact he was one of the first to propose the outright banning of several essential oils, and to highlight the dangers of others. None of this is financially or politically motivated, and it would be a shame to skew what is a very valid and scientific point of view into cartoon soundbites.
    First point you make - maybe you're seeing just the naturals folks making a stink right now (couldn't resist) because nobody in the synth industry has taken up our cause. True, many synths are up for banning also, but we figure that industry is so large, let them fight their own battles with their manpower and dollars. We're all volunteering on this naturals angle, it's really grassroots and the first time the naturals community has battled IFRA.

    Second point -- Tony (and I, in different forums) have been preaching about safety issues for many, many years. We are for the safe use of essential oils and aromatics. I myself am sensitized to oakmoss due to my own negligence when pouring some once, and not washing it off my hand. We want warning labels, consumer choice, and an end to the nonsensical restrictions.
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by helg
    Well, isn't it obvious??? *incredulous gaze here*

    It benefits the companies who produce synthetics for perfume-production and we all know that the 6 big perfume-making companies (IFF, Quest, Givaudan etc.) all have chemists up to their sleeves in the research of less expensive and more pliable synthetics for use in perfumes: cut of cost, ease of production. There you have it.
    Naturals do not cost little and they have slight variations from batch to batch.

    Now, if some Big Brother uber-goverment/organisation is insisting that natural essences can cause some trouble it's all the more to the above mentioned companies' benefit. They could feed them with info themselves even!!

    All about the money.....
    Helg, I have to add it just seems Big Brother government in the EU run amok, trying to justify their existance by clamping down more and more on all aspects of life there. From what I understand, the attitude they take that the citizens are childlike and need to be protected from *everything* isn't limited to just perfumes.
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by Zibeline
    I think part of the reason is that while one can choose not to eat peanuts, one cannot choose not to breathe in the Mitsouko worn by the woman next to you on a train, plane, or in a store. I recall reading that there is some big increase in respiratory difficulty these days and some have linked this to the use of fragrance in general.

    I think the improvement in diagnostic equipment and the wide availability of inhaled medication, any allergy medication really, could provide another explanation. Pharma markets these things aggressively. Lately I've noticed many overweight people with exertional dyspnea using inhalers...must be the fragrance...lol.

    Pass the peanuts!
    Breathing Mistouko isn't the problem: they're saying the skin sensitization possibility is the problem. In fact, I'm hard pressed to think of any vintage perfume that causes respiratory problems. I first remember respiratory problems becoming noticable in the late 70s and 80s when all the new wave of synth chemicals were introduced, eg Calone. That stuff was known for making eyes water, throats close up, etc. Think of all the harsh, strong perfumes of the 80s- all synth-induced respiratory reactions.
    Last edited by Natural_Juice; 10th February 2007 at 02:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    Anya McCoy - http://anyasgarden.com/
    Best of the Best awards - Perfume: MoonDance, StarFlower, Amberess, Light, Royal Lotus and as
    Project Leader: Outlaw Perfume and Mystery of Musk
    Basic Perfumery Course with lifetime access to the website - http://perfumeclasses.com
    America's First Natural Perfume Line 1991
    First Artisan Perfumer Voted in as member of the American Society of Perfumery 2013

  33. #33

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Thank you Anya for your in depth analysis and the info you provide (not to mention the hard work).

    It's bad to be thought of as childlike and unable to make a decision on our own. We need no daddies...

  34. #34

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Addendum: Now Smell This linked to Anya McCoy's blog and I was stunned by the ingredients limited by the new inane rules...I had no idea that rose absolute and carnation absolute joined oakmoss as a threat to mankind!!

    Unbelievable! Few perfumes are safe, it seems. Mitsouko today, Joy, No.5, and heaven knows what tomorrow.[/QUOTE]

    Can Bellodgia be far behind? Unbelievable, is right!

  35. #35

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by Oviatt
    Addendum: Now Smell This linked to Anya McCoy's blog and I was stunned by the ingredients limited by the new inane rules...I had no idea that rose absolute and carnation absolute joined oakmoss as a threat to mankind!!
    Can Bellodgia be far behind? Unbelievable, is right![/QUOTE]

    Actually, when I posted that list on my blog it was incomplete. The FAQ has the complete list, and I just pasted it onto my blog. Here it is for your reading horror:
    Ambrette seed oil
    Angelica root oil
    Bakul absolute
    Basil absolute
    Basil oil (estragole CT)
    Basil oil (holy)
    Basil oil (linalool CT)
    Bay oil (West Indian)
    Bergamot leaf oil
    Bergamot peel oil (distilled)
    Betel leaf oil
    Birch tar oil
    Black tea tree oil
    Boldo leaf oil
    Broom absolute
    Cabreuva oil
    Cade oil
    Calamus oil
    Cananga oil
    Cangerana oil
    Cardamon oil
    Carnation absolute
    Carrot seed oil
    Cascarilla oil
    Cassia oil
    Cassie absolute
    Cinnamon bark oil
    Cinnamon leaf oil
    Cistus oil
    Citronella oil
    Clary sage oil
    Clove oil
    Costus oil
    Cumin oil
    Davana oil
    Elecampane oil
    Elemi oil
    Fenugreek oil
    Fig leaf absolute
    Galangal oil
    Geranium oil
    Ginger oil
    Ginger lily absolute
    Grapefruit peel oil
    Ho leaf oil
    Honey myrtle oil
    Horseradish oil
    Horsemint oil
    Huon pine oil
    Hyssop oil
    Jasmine grandiflorum absolute
    Jasmine sambac absolute
    Karo karoundé absolute
    Laurel leaf oil
    Lemon balm oil (Australian)
    Lemongrass oil
    Lemon basil oil
    Lemon leaf oil
    Lemon myrtle oil
    Lemon tea tree oil
    Lemon peel oils
    Lemon thyme oil
    Lemon verbena oil
    Lemon verbena absolute
    Lime peel oil (expressed)
    Lovage leaf oil
    Mace oil
    Mandarin leaf oil
    Marjoram oil (sweet)
    Massoia bark oil
    May chang oil
    Melissa oil
    Mustard oil
    Myrtle oil
    Narcissus absolute
    Nasturtium absolute
    Nutmeg oil
    Oakmoss absolute
    Opoponax oil
    Orange blossom oil
    Orange blossom absolute
    Orange leaf oil
    Orange peel oil (bitter)
    Orange peel oil (sweet)
    Oregano oil
    Palmarosa oil
    Peppermint oil
    Perilla oil
    Peru balsam oil
    Phoebe oil
    Pimento berry oil
    Pimento leaf oil
    Pteronia oil
    Rose absolute
    Rose oil
    Rue oil
    Sandalwood oil (Australian)
    Santolina oil
    Sassafras oil
    Savin oil
    Savory oil (winter)
    Snakeroot oil
    Spearmint oil
    Spike lavender oil
    Styrax oil
    Sugandha oil
    Tagettes oil
    Tagettes absolute
    Tarragon oil
    Tea leaf absolute
    Tejpat oil
    Thyme oil (thymol CT)
    Tolu balsam extract
    Treemoss absolute
    Tuberose absolute
    Vassoura oil
    Violet leaf absolute
    Wormseed oil
    Ylang-ylang absolute
    Ylang-ylang oils

    Essential oils containing “substantial amounts” of limonene or linalool should have antioxidants added to them. IFRA does not define “substantial amounts”, but adding essential oils containing 20% or more of either or both constituents to this list would grow it by 50-60 further essential oils. Essential oils derived from the Pinacea family should also have antioxidants added to them. This would include a further 25 or so essential oils.
    Anya McCoy - http://anyasgarden.com/
    Best of the Best awards - Perfume: MoonDance, StarFlower, Amberess, Light, Royal Lotus and as
    Project Leader: Outlaw Perfume and Mystery of Musk
    Basic Perfumery Course with lifetime access to the website - http://perfumeclasses.com
    America's First Natural Perfume Line 1991
    First Artisan Perfumer Voted in as member of the American Society of Perfumery 2013

  36. #36

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Thanks for the list Anya!
    And what a ridiculous list this one is.The IFRA can go to hell.

    Well, now onto the topic, I am not a fan of reformulations, but i have to say that many of those new ones were nice ones.
    For me, i like the new formulation of Mitsouko more than the old one, but only because the older version was not too good on my skin, and became just too creamy. The new one sits amd develops better on me.
    I would have rather preferred them keeping the old formula in Mitsouko, and the creating a new scent with the reformulation, or even a spin-off, but definitely NOT replacing it and sticking the same name on both formulas and bottles. Thant ,of course is a major turn-off to fans of the original scent.

  37. #37

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    what prompts reformulations? do they do it to make the frag cheaper to manufacture? ...smell better? (in most cases don't they end up smelling far worse than the original?) why do they sometimes change one strength or the frag? why is it usually edt??

    IMO if they want to reformulate something to the point that it barely resembles the original, they should just discontinue using the original name and launch it as something else or at the very least give it a spin off name (ie lancome miracle has spin offs such as miracle so magic!, miracle forever, etc) so that you will know that it's not the same thing that it once was.

    although i've never experienced mitsouko, i'm sad to hear that they've butchered it and give my sympathy to those of you who loved to original formulations.
    http://www.myspace.com/mermaidsushi
    http://www.myspace.com/longdistancelovers

    my all-time faves include anna sui, vera wang princess, nanette lepore, miracle, amor amor, juicy couture, ralph rocks & betsey johnson

    decants i'm looking for:
    a sample vial/decant of viva la juicy by juicy couture
    anna sui scents (other than the original)

  38. #38
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Most of the long list above, including the most talked about - oakmoss, birch tar, and coumarin - will continue to be used in many perfumes just as they always have been.

    There's plenty of info regarding this stuff on Luca Turin's old blog. It got tedious fast and I'm fairly sure that's why he stopped the blog.

  39. #39

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    While I've known people who almost died because a knife that went through a dishwasher at a restaurant still had slight peanut oil residue on it, I don't know of any serious reactions to someone else wearing a fragrance.

    Peanut allergies can kill from residue left behind by someone's hand on a subway car.

    That said, I used to apply my fragrance outside every day (unless I was dabbing on a parfum) as my partner would get asthma from the propellants. Once things had settled though there was never an issue with breathing being affected.

    If there are serious health risks to the public from my discreet application of scent, I would like to know, to be honest. At this point I don't think comparison to peanut allergies is apt - and even with peanuts, warning labels were legislated, and some factories went peanut-free.

    Not to mention that smog is more of a risk to anyone's respiratory distress than fragrance, and we aren't legislating it away, although we could make much more progress on it than we do.

    Full disclosure: Mitsouko parfum was my daily scent for years - but I think I would have very similar views if it were otherwise. And Zibeline, this isn't to disagree with you, merely prompted by your mention of peanuts.

    Quote Originally Posted by Zibeline
    I think part of the reason is that while one can choose not to eat peanuts, one cannot choose not to breathe in the Mitsouko worn by the woman next to you on a train, plane, or in a store. I recall reading that there is some big increase in respiratory difficulty these days and some have linked this to the use of fragrance in general.

    I think the improvement in diagnostic equipment and the wide availability of inhaled medication, any allergy medication really, could provide another explanation. Pharma markets these things aggressively. Lately I've noticed many overweight people with exertional dyspnea using inhalers...must be the fragrance...lol.

    Pass the peanuts!

  40. #40

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Eau de Peanut - now there's an idea!

  41. #41

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    I forgot to say this:
    What really surprises me is that the vast majority of the euro frags have been reformulated since the mid-90's, maybe even before and just now some people are realizing that?
    I mean, just because the houses haven't made tons more of those Official Announcements doesn't mean that at least an old fan of " or y scent cannot recognize that there is a change in their favorite fragrance...i am sure many of you have experienced this before right?

  42. #42

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    This is possibly a stupid question: I wonder if they could use a synthetic oakmoss rather than an oakmoss substitute? Would a synthetic change the scent as much as a treemoss substitute? Does synthetic oakmoss exist? Why treemoss? What is treemoss anyway?

    Edit... Okay I read a few posts back and realized that synthetic oakmoss would change the scent - if it did exist. I actually think that synthetics are the cause of the rising rate of allergies and asthma these days. Also synthetics in our foods are causing us to be poorly nourished and obese.
    Last edited by MysteryFemme; 24th February 2007 at 11:09 AM.
    "Voici mon secret. Il est tres simple: on ne voit bien qu'avec le coeur. L'essentiel est invisible pour les yeux."
    - Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  43. #43

    Red face Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Luca Turin has written quite a bit on "headspace" scents, I was surprised by how complicated it is, and how difficult to recreate a natural molecule. My guess is that, in addition to all this, one would have to isolate the "allergenic" component(s) and take them out, then see if the scent remained. Often, when allergenic components are removed, so is the smell! You could buy real oakmoss EO and add it yourself, maybe???

  44. #44

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Yes, but MiMi FruFru (of Scented Salamander) says she thinks that synthetic coumarin is partly to blame, having been substituted for the real thing in Mitsouko.

  45. #45

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7
    Yes, but MiMi FruFru (of Scented Salamander) says she thinks that synthetic coumarin is partly to blame, having been substituted for the real thing in Mitsouko.
    I'm not really a fan of coumarin, and the synthetic one is even worse!
    That's too bad.

  46. #46

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    I've been wondering if this might help in some cases. (Adding real oakmoss EO oneself.)

    The thing is, the fragrances are tweaked in other ways as well when reformulated, so it isn't just that the oakmoss is missing. Still, I think adding a very small amount of the EO could add some of the depth and character that is changed by changing to, say, treemoss without too much upsetting the balance - especially for us oakmoss fans. So it is probably worth trying. Don't forget to be careful with the oakmoss EO though.

    As far as synthetics go, my opinion is very ambivalent. It depends so much on each individual one. My background started with two years of biochemistry before veering off wildly, and in some cases I honestly think there is no difference in smell (or very little, being a matter of impurity levels - and those other substances may be able to be added in if desired) and no harm to the wearer. It can even be environmentally advantageous. Other times, not so much.

    Quote Originally Posted by Elf
    Luca Turin has written quite a bit on "headspace" scents, I was surprised by how complicated it is, and how difficult to recreate a natural molecule. My guess is that, in addition to all this, one would have to isolate the "allergenic" component(s) and take them out, then see if the scent remained. Often, when allergenic components are removed, so is the smell! You could buy real oakmoss EO and add it yourself, maybe???

  47. #47
    Dependent
    fredricktoo's Avatar
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    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    they made us stop smoking
    they smelled our scents and sneezed
    soon they just won't like us and we'll have to go to Guantanomo

    sadness is everywhere

  48. #48

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    If the world has a perfume ban,
    I will open a new state
    Where you can come to live
    And we will all smell great.
    Amen.

  49. #49

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by MysteryFemme
    This is possibly a stupid question: I wonder if they could use a synthetic oakmoss rather than an oakmoss substitute? Would a synthetic change the scent as much as a treemoss substitute? Does synthetic oakmoss exist?
    Synthetic oakmoss that smells similar to the real thing has not been achieved by now.
    Has been reported by scientists trying to make it and failing.

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7
    Yes, but MiMi FruFru (of Scented Salamander) says she thinks that synthetic coumarin is partly to blame, having been substituted for the real thing in Mitsouko.
    Quote Originally Posted by castorpollux
    I'm not really a fan of coumarin, and the synthetic one is even worse!
    That's too bad.

    Excuse me and maybe I did not understand this too well, but :

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coumarin

    The way I understand it is it naturally occurs in some plants, notably tonka bean, but when isolated it is synthesised in the lab. ("Coumarin can be prepared in a laboratory" etc etc)
    I understand that it has been thus used by Guerlain since Jicky in 1889 and in Susan Irvine's guide (p.91) it is referred to as the second great synthetic discovery in Jicky (linalool and vanillin being the other two).

  50. #50

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Hmm. good point. I don't rightly know. I was quoting the Scented Salamander article, which mentioned changes in coumarin as the possible reason for the difference in aroma.

    Here's a thought: Perhaps there is new coumarin, a non-allergenic one, that doesn't smell as good.

  51. #51

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    I am new here, but I am having a terrible time finding a perfume that I really like that I am not allergic to (makes me scratch my skin off and bleed!).

    Mitsouko I sprayed on last week and I am only just healing up now after it. There are others too that I can't use and I was wondering if it was the more modern ones that I was OK with, but now, after trying Miss Dior, I am wondering if it is Chypres?? Others that do this are Opium, Miss Dior, Chanel 19, Ralph Lauren Blue to name a few. Ones I CAN wear are: Bvulgari Pour Femme, Bvulgari BLV, Escada Crystal, Gucci (brown one), Issy Myake Summer, Oscar Latin Light. Does any of you good people that specialize or know your perfumes, see any patern here? Unfortunately, the houses don't list the ingredients, so I can't compare :-( Any help would be appreciated. If I could just find out what it is I am allergic to, I could avoid it in the future and probably save myself a fortune in the process LOL

    PS I am asthmatic too but the fragrances don't seem to have an effect on me so far.

  52. #52

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    I just ordered a 1ml vile of the pure parfum from fragrantfripperies, and they still list oakmoss in the notes. I've never owned Mitsouko, so am hoping I'm getting something akin to the "real" thing, although I guess I wouldn't know it if I did! Has anyone ever ordered this for a comparison to the vintage? Just curious.

  53. #53
    kumquat's Avatar
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    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Actually, I DID order that same parfum Mitsouko from FF. It was much better than a previous sample I had from somewhere else. Then I aquired a bottle of vintage cologne spray. I'm comparing these to the current EDT which is out there at TJ Max. The Frag Frip parfum was so good, I don't know if hers is vintage though. It did inspire me to buy the vintage cologne, which is excellent. Now I know what all the fuss was about. The modern stuff is so thin and pale it's sad. It does get a little bit 'Peachy' after it dries down in 1/2 hour or so, but it is so sharp and aldehyldic, one feels like a science experiment gone wrong.

  54. #54

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by kumquat
    Actually, I DID order that same parfum Mitsouko from FF. It was much better than a previous sample I had from somewhere else. Then I aquired a bottle of vintage cologne spray. I'm comparing these to the current EDT which is out there at TJ Max. The Frag Frip parfum was so good, I don't know if hers is vintage though. It did inspire me to buy the vintage cologne, which is excellent. Now I know what all the fuss was about. The modern stuff is so thin and pale it's sad. It does get a little bit 'Peachy' after it dries down in 1/2 hour or so, but it is so sharp and aldehyldic, one feels like a science experiment gone wrong.
    Thanks kumquat - I'm glad to hear the FF one is at least good. As I've never owned it before, I just didn't have anything to compare it to. I appreciate you helping me out with this, and now I'm REALLY anticipating it's arrival!

  55. #55
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    fredricktoo's Avatar
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    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Patty at Fragrant Fripperies is a great source of niche, rare, exotic and new perfumes.
    Fragrant Fripperies is a great on-line shopping center for perfume. Easy enough to shoot her an e-mail with any and all questions.
    also try the pefumeposse.com site
    I am not a compensated spokesman or am I in any way related or affiliated with Fragrant Fripperies.

    long time customer
    Gary Fredricktoo

    oh man am i gonna get some cool shit if she reads this
    Last edited by fredricktoo; 9th March 2007 at 09:44 PM.

  56. #56

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by fredricktoo
    Patty at Fragrant Fripperies is a great source of niche, rare, exotic and new perfumes.
    Fragrant Fripperies is a great on-line shopping center for perfume. Easy enough to shoot her an e-mail with any and all questions.
    also try the pefumeposse.com site
    I am not a compensated spokesman or am I in any way related or affiliated with Fragrant Fripperies.

    long time customer
    Gary Fredricktoo

    oh man am i gonna get some cool shit if she reads this
    Hi Gary - Actually, I ordered 20 decants from there a few days ago and can hardly wait till they all get here, esp. the Mitsouko and a 1/2 oz. of Tabac Blond Pure Parfum. Thankyou for the perfumeposse site, I am going to check it out right away.
    Oh, and I hope she does read this so you can get your well-deserved "freebies"! Hehehe.....

  57. #57

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Does anyone know the year it was reformulated (useful for shopping vintage on Ebay)!

    AH

  58. #58

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by fredricktoo View Post
    Patty at Fragrant Fripperies is a great source of niche, rare, exotic and new perfumes.
    Fragrant Fripperies is a great on-line shopping center for perfume. Easy enough to shoot her an e-mail with any and all questions.
    also try the pefumeposse.com site
    I am not a compensated spokesman or am I in any way related or affiliated with Fragrant Fripperies.

    long time customer
    Gary Fredricktoo

    oh man am i gonna get some cool shit if she reads this

    she does have an extensive range of niche rare perfumes, there is Fishbone92 too, I guess it 's worth it to invest in a small sample of 1ML to get an idea but avoid buying larger decants specially when it comes to Mitsouko extrait de parfum, with ebay sellers you 'll never know wether it is Mitsouko yesterday, last year, 5, 10, 20 years ago...as we all know everyone of them are different by composition and quality.
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by aharad View Post
    Does anyone know the year it was reformulated (useful for shopping vintage on Ebay)!

    AH
    Mitsouko was created in 1919, it certainly has been reformulated many times since then but there are two important stages; the extrait de parfum was made of real ambregris up until the (early) 80's, any vintage will be smoother, earthier and more radiant. The oakmoss reformulation is recent but I doubt anyone knows exactly when that occured, some outlets may still have "older" Mitsoukos make with authentic oakmoss and others may be selling the new regulated version.

    if you can find it, a sealed vintage extrait de parfum of Mitsouko from the 80's is definitely not the worst choice to make.
    Last edited by Jasmin de Grasse; 13th March 2007 at 10:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  59. #59

    Default Re: Death of Mitsouko Confirmed by Guerlain

    Quote Originally Posted by aharad View Post
    Does anyone know the year it was reformulated (useful for shopping vintage on Ebay)!

    AH
    As stated before me it has been reformulated probably many, many times since 1919, so the notion of one vintage is not accurate; however if you're referring to the most recent one, stock that came to the stores prior to autumn 2006 must be the older stuff.
    I heard of perceived differences from people who tested this in early to late autumn 2006 and I have had a swap with someone who had bought it last summer and it was the same as my older stuff, so......

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