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  1. #31

    Default Re: Mitsouko - Comparison of Old and New Formulas

    Compared to the old 1970s version?
    More woodiness.
    It is still a quality perfume, not synthetic smelling.
    However, the focus has moved away from the peach.
    That is why I say, if you like the wood part, it is changing in your favor. If you seek the peach, you have to wait for it to come out. In the old one, it was there, BANG, right from the start, with less wood.
    If the new EDT smelled bad to you, it was probably those harsh notes in the beginning, but they do go away.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 16th February 2007 at 01:26 PM.

  2. #32

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mitsouko - Comparison of Old and New Formulas

    Turin published a couple of things about Mitsouko, and LVMH messing with Guerlain formulas at various places in the summer of 2005. The echo within basenotes had then been surprisingly minimal.

    http://www.flexitral.com/research/Blogtextweb.pdf
    Search here for 'Mitsouko', 'Isabelle Rousseau'. On pages 31..32 of that archived blog you will find the copy of an official letter of Guerlain Public Relations Managress to a Turin blog poster concerning oakmoss and other raw materials supposedly removed from traditional Guerlain perfumes.

    I am surprised that the contents of this letter have then not been discussed further in Luca's bloc. Is it perhaps possible that Turin's exciting appeal in June 2005 'The downfall of the house of Guerlain' has not been based on solid facts? It would make sense to start another e-mail activity with Guerlain, or at least pick up that Guerlain statement in view of more recent developments, if there are facts, not rumors.
    Last edited by narcus; 11th March 2007 at 06:58 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  3. #33

    Default Re: Mitsouko - Comparison of Old and New Formulas

    Hi Narcus.
    Absolutely, I agree with you. I, myself. wonder the same thing.
    Perfume houses seem to be evasive with their answers.

    For example: every time I call Chanel to see if some classic is being discontinued (because it is sold only in EDT in the U.S., or because it must be special-ordered my mail) I am told all the proper, comforting things: No, no, it is still current, the sales representative has not heard about any plans to discontinue or reformulate.

    Another example: I wrote Balmain about Jolie Madame, because oakmoss was not listed in the contents. After months of waiting, they replied that the formula had not been changed. But I know the bottle had been changed. And aren't there regulations that require oakmoss to be listed on the box?

    I doubt we would hear the truth from Guerlain about reformulation. These things should be signalled with a newly-styled bottle, a label, or a name change, but they rarely are. Of course, one has already spent one's money and opened the bottle by the time one finds out. Then it is too late for returns and refunds. It discourages me from further purchases of my lovely, old-shool Chypres. What will I encounter in my next bottle of Miss Dior?

    Luca Turins blog started an avalanche of e-mails to Guerlain about the reformulation of Mitsouko. However, after a nasty flame-war about natural perfumery (unrelated to Mitsouko, but pertinent to the oakmoss controversy and safety regulations) the blog was closed. (Mr. Turin was given some natural rose fragrances, and he commented unfavorably on them, starting a 'natural vs synthetic controvery.) Since then, I have been unable to find "official" news from Guerlain.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 10th March 2007 at 03:08 PM.

  4. #34

    Wink Re: Mitsouko - Comparison of Old and New Formulas

    I've only tested this fragrance once in Bloomies, and it was pretty. My sister loves it, (remember, the more sophisticated one) I smelled alot of peach in it, and I really don't like peach in a fragrance. Other than that, it was nice. I smelled it the other day, but just through the cap. I need to spray this on again, to comment further.

  5. #35

    Default Re: Mitsouko - Comparison of Old and New Formulas

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7
    I subtitle this "The Sad Evolution of Mitsouko." In it, I attempt to side-by-side compare old and new formulations, samples of my own and provided by various people.......
    The current changes are bad, but the wost change happened decades ago.
    Purplebird - Were you able to compare different vintages of the pure perfume? I purchased a mini perfume (boxed and sealed) from an on-line store front that smells exactly like the new EDP.

    I have a vintage EDC (based on the bottle, 1970s) and a decant of pure perfume from a trusted ebayer/basenoter that smell similar to each other. The but the new perfume smells nothing like the perfume decant. Do you know if formulation of the pure perfume has been changed also?
    Last edited by BlueIsis; 10th March 2007 at 05:45 PM.

  6. #36

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mitsouko - Comparison of Old and New Formulas

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7
    1: Luca Turins blog started an avalanche of e-mails to Guerlain about the reformulation of Mitsouko.
    2: However, after a nasty flame-war about natural perfumery (unrelated to Mitsouko, but pertinent to the oakmoss controversy and safety regulations) the blog was closed. (Mr. Turin was given some natural rose fragrances, and he commented unfavorably on them, starting a 'natural vs synthetic controvery.) ...
    A few more questions, Purplebird, if you will allow please:

    ad1:
    Has that been in reported by Bnoters too? I knew some BNs were also in the Turin community. But I never read anything about the magnitude of the e-mail campaign, not even if you could consider it a 'campaign' at all. (How about reviving it based on the recent changes? I suspect that Guerlain does not publish anything about their process of slow dilutions on purpose. There is always a hope that things might go by unnoticed. I am sure they hired specialists to camouflage anything they do which is seen as a devaluation. And their customer relations staff are in the front line of the image defense. The new owners inherited triple A consumer rating, honestly built during two centuries. Naturally, Guerlain are not the only ones. The trend to water down, or replace precious ingredients (at same price levels) can be observed with most products of a lot of perfume houses. More than constantly new generations of average consumers, we perfume addicts are the ones that should give common dissatisfaction a voice, at least make it known that we smell a difference between new and old bottles of the holy grail.

    ad 2
    : The nasty flame war - that was not between Turin and Guerlain, but between Turin and some small scale perfume sellers/producers among his own posters, correct? I had the impression Turin condidered the blog a waste of time in the end. He seemed tired of getting pestered by always the same persons, although he was very gentlemanly and polite about that. Who gave him rose water - do you remember?
    Last edited by narcus; 11th March 2007 at 08:24 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  7. #37

    Question Re: Mitsouko - Comparison of Old and New Formulas

    Interesting.

    I just bought the Extrait from 1967 in ebay. Oddly enough...it seems centered around the vetiver/woods...not so peachy as the one i smelled in 2001, 2002. Perhaps, it went peachy in the 70's and know they are going for earlier versions like mine from the 1967.

    I use to get a lot of compliments...but not so much form the vintage 1967...if anything I got a bad one.


    Go figure!

  8. #38

    Default Re: Mitsouko - Comparison of Old and New Formulas

    Quote Originally Posted by ManlyScent View Post
    Interesting.

    I just bought the Extrait from 1967 in ebay. Oddly enough...it seems centered around the vetiver/woods...not so peachy as the one i smelled in 2001, 2002. Perhaps, it went peachy in the 70's and know they are going for earlier versions like mine from the 1967.

    I use to get a lot of compliments...but not so much form the vintage 1967...if anything I got a bad one.


    Go figure!
    my extrait vintage from the early 80's is totally patchouli galore, centered around earthier notes and the radiance of real ambregris. the one I have from 2001 is so watered down in comparaison, less elegant and mysterious, harsher top notes.

  9. #39

    Default Re: Mitsouko - Comparison of Old and New Formulas

    I eventually broke down and bought a bottle of the edt.On me it smells quite peachy,but the peach quickly blends in and you get a more earthy feel to it.Still very peachy,though.On the bottom of my bottle it says "4J 01"...Can this possibly be the older version?A part of me hopes it's the newer one,since I really adore it...

  10. #40

    Default Re: Mitsouko - Comparison of Old and New Formulas

    Quote Originally Posted by ineespenes View Post
    On the bottom of my bottle it says "4J 01"...Can this possibly be the older version?A part of me hopes it's the newer one,since I really adore it...
    definitely means 2001 but not sure about 4J

    my old vintage says nothing and my second extrait says PR 36K

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