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  1. #1

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    Default Most overrated and underrated

    In your opinion, is there any fragrance out there that gets way too many, undeserved accolades? Are there any gems out there that don't receive their time in the limelight?

    In other words, what do you think are some of the most overrated and underrated fragrances? Some feelings might get hurt, and there might be some smug laughter, but its all in good fun.

    I'll fire some off...

    overrated: Green Irish Tweed
    underrated: Zino Davidoff

  2. #2

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    i'd agree with Green Irish Tweed and throw in another Creed scent, Bois du Portugal. i find both over-powering, and have received negative comments whenever i wore samples. they both remind me of unwashed shirts, where deodorant has been heavily applied by the wearer to (unsuccessfully) cover up the whiff!

    all the scents i enjoy, are all quite popular on here, so i can't think of any which are unerrated.
    I Thang You!

    Favourites: Knize Ten, Creed Royal English Leather, Creed Cuir de Russie, Acqua di Parma Colonia, Helmut Lang Cuiron, Creed Zeste Mandarine Pampelmousse

  3. #3
    _R$_'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    These are all just my opinion, and I know that everyone has their own taste.

    M7 - I think that M7 is an overrated scent, though it works really well for some people, it does not sit well with me.

    Guerlain Vetiver - Underrated. A lot of people like it, but you hardly ever hear someone say "Oh, that Guerlain Vetiver is such a well composed scent!" It really is, and it really takes the bitterness out of the Vetiver, without losing it's fresh and clean factor.

    A*Men - Tried it I don't know how many times, and I'm going to try it again soon, but the chocolate note is just so... cloying. Even light applications don't sit well with me, but I think it's because I don't like chocolate fragrances.

    Terre de Hermes - Way overrated. Kind of boring to me. Not bad, but not good in my very humble opinion.

    Cool Water - Underrated. For obious reasons, but I do enjoy my Green Frich Tweed very much!

    Lucky You - Underrated. It's a scent from my (not so distant) highschool years, so I have a definite soft spot for it.

    Versace Blue Jeans - Way overrated. I mean, it's not a bad scent, but it's really not good at all. I do recieve a lot of compliments with this one though.

    Lacoste pour Homme - Underrated. Also a scent from my highschool years, so it's also got a soft spot in my heart.
    - Rich
    As always, disregard most of what I say. It's not worth your heart health to actually worry about what a 23 year old guy from Kansas thinks. Even if he is really ridiculously good looking.

  4. #4

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    As a senior BN I think both BDP and GIT have had a a considerable following. Before fragrances like Musk Ravageur became popular here, they got top rankings all the time. I still think they belong there but I welcome the wider choice in top lquids we have in 2006/07.
    Guerlain's Vetiver is a wonderful fresh cologne, mainly for the summer, outstanding among the Guerlains! On the other hand - calling it a Vetiver is barely justified, particularly when we talk about the current version. Lovers of true and 'bitter' vetiver root are likely to be more satisfied with other brands. I personally consider this Guerlain as nice and easy to wear as Terre D'Hermes. But I am wondering if YSL, Rive Gauche Pour Homme, isn't the better Terre?
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  5. #5

    Post Re: Most overrated and underrated

    While Serge Lutens is a great fragrance house, it is overrated at the moment. Things go in cycles here in Basenotes, and at this very moment SL seems to be the thing. Whenever a new member asks for recommendations, he gets an image that Serge Lutens is the beginning and the end in his quest to find the best fragrances in the world. Great houses, such as Lorenzo Villoresi and Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier are not as big at the moment here, and not too many here are familiar with the kinds of Trumper's or Santa Maria Novella! I believe, that one of the things that makes SL the most popular niche house is, that the scents are generally sweet and soft, while not at all mainstream or boring, still alot more easily approachable than MPG or Villoresi's very natural and raw Classic-series.

    While L'Artisan has great concepts and several quite alright scents, they in general lack depth, clarity, strength and quality of Frederic Malle and all the houses mentioned above, me thinks.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    As a general rule I have found the Creed fragrances to be over rated. No question they put out a quality product but I don't see it as any better then other well established lines like Givenchy, Hermès, Chanel....

    I remember in a marketing class I took many years ago reading a study where identical products were given to people to evaluate. The people were told that one was a premium product with a high price and the other was a value product with a bargain price. When people were asked which of these identical products was better, the one marketed as the premium product was overwhelmingly ranked higher.

    As under rated I would say Alan Cumming's Cumming. It really is an exceptional and unique fragrance but due to its "joke" name and celebrity association just does not get the respect it deserves.
    In all matters of opinion, our adversaries are insane - Oscar Wilde

  7. #7

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Guerlain's Vetiver strikes me as terribly overrated. It's loud, soapy and I have received nothing but wrinkled noses whenever I wore it.

    Creed's BdP is the definition of the word 'cloying' to me. I tried a sample based on the favorable reviews here, and it just hit me as very overpowering.

    Burberry London and John Varvatos both strike me as very underrated scents. For the price tag, both are extremely great pickups, wonderful scents and have received positive feedback whenever detected.

  8. #8
    apekrul's Avatar
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Except for Fumerie Turque, I find the entire Serge Lutens line a bit overrated. I do like the smell of Arabie, Vetiver Oriental, Chergui and the others, but I think they would be much more appropriate as a room spray for some oriental brothel.
    The same goes for Green Irish Tweed: an inoffensive and nice fragrance, but certainly not worth all the praise.

    As for underrated: Trumpers' Sandalwood cologne deserves more attention!

  9. #9

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny_Ludlow
    While Serge Lutens is a great fragrance house, it is overrated at the moment. Things go in cycles here in Basenotes, and at this very moment SL seems to be the thing. Whenever a new member asks for recommendations, he gets an image that Serge Lutens is the beginning and the end in his quest to find the best fragrances in the world. Great houses, such as Lorenzo Villoresi and Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier are not as big at the moment here, and not too many here are familiar with the kinds of Trumper's or Santa Maria Novella! I believe, that one of the things that makes SL the most popular niche house is, that the scents are generally sweet and soft, while not at all mainstream or boring, still alot more easily approachable than MPG or Villoresi's very natural and raw Classic-series.
    Although I consider it safer to express an opinion on fragrances rather than brands (no house perfumer is constantly inspired) I can second this paragraph. I have also learned that each year of scent exposure changes my preferences and increases my capability to differentiate. There are wonderful fragrances also made by L'Artisans, but I do not expect to find one 'with balls' among them.
    Last edited by narcus; 19th February 2007 at 02:34 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Although it's dropped off the radar in the past two months in favor of Lutens and GIT, my most overrated is PdN New York. Why? .. eh... take your pick. Same complaint with BdP, but add lots and lots of powder.

    Most underrated, PdN Sacrebleu! As much coverage as Chergui and other sweet, heavy, oriental Lutens get around here, I'm amazed almost nobody talks about it. It strikes me as having that sort of Lutens chicness without the "too much" factor. It's sweet, it's dark, it's woody... it's by no means my favorite scent, but nobody ever really gives it a shot.
    Last edited by rach2jlc; 19th February 2007 at 01:10 PM.
    Is there any point in saying everything? -Basho

  11. #11

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Most overrated to me would have to be Musc Ravageur. Maybe "ovrerrated" isn't quite accurate - it's just one of the few frags that I can't wrap my head (or nose) around, as I don't understand what it's trying to accomplish. Lord knows, I've tried. . and tried, but what starts out on me as a baleful cinnamon cloud dries down to an olfactory black hole, a scent only Willy Wonka could love.
    "Oh, my Lolita, I have only words to play with!"
    - Vladimir Nabokov,
    Lolita

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    There was a very controversial thread on the problem to fix the expression "overrated" like 2 months ago . I am very aware of the fact that there are completely different opinions about what "overrated" exactly means and to me it looks like it´s a matter of attention. SL gets a lot of attention right now and PdN New York got a lot of attention before christmas and so on and so on. As Narcus pointed out it goes in circles.

    I don´t have any problem if a line or a frag that I dislike is highly praised but I often feel that it´s a shame that certain lines or frags that I love don´t get the attention they deserve at least IMO. So instead of classifiying currently popular frags as "overrated" it´s much more fun to try to make people aware of the fact that there´s a lot of equaliy interesting frags out there and thet it´s definitely worth the effort to swich the focus from the board´s always changing current favorites to other interesting offers.

    The lines which get sadly not that much intention (this is not a complete list):

    - D´Orsay (They are all excellent, not only Le Dandy)
    - Patricia de Nicolai (The are all excellent, not only New York)
    - Mazzolari (Unfortunately all of them can´t be found in the directory except for Alessandro and guess what: they are all excellent! Vetyver, Patchouli, Lui, Signature)

    I don´t know if these line are underrated, but they deserve more attention.

    Christian
    Last edited by costello; 19th February 2007 at 01:31 PM.
    Guerlain: Après L´ondée - Chanel: Cuir de Russie - Dior: Dior Homme - Divine: L´homme de coeur - Caron: Le 3me homme
    ---------------------------

    "Tra il fiore colto e l’ altro donato / l’ inesprimibile nulla" Giuseppe Ungaretti

  13. #13

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    overrated: the creeds
    underrated: the fragonards

  14. #14

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Overrated: Anything from the YSL line, except for M7 Fresh which is actually one of my most underrated frags.

    Underrated: Diptyque Oyedo-doesnt get nearly the amount of play on here that it should, especially as a Summer/Spring scent.
    Last edited by Words; 19th February 2007 at 04:05 PM.
    I'm a fresh scent junkie and proud of it!

  15. #15

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Over rated - Not going there , because although I may not like a frag, the next gent/gal will. I think there are certain houses that get the 'benefit of the doubt' on the forum, while other houses are 'beat down like a red-headed stepchild'.

    Under rated - IMHO Pomegranate Noir - Jo Malone and Le Labo - Patchouli 24 are not talked about much, but are very interesting scents.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Overated - creed line (except for silver mountain water)
    Underrated - Comme de Garcons White

  17. #17

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Over: A*Men. I tried and tried to like this one, but couldn't. It might work for some people, but not for me. I was recently at the mall in the White Linen Candle Co or whatever it's called (next to Bath and Bodyworks), and they had candles that smelled like A*Men. The caramel, coffee, chocolate concoction was just overpowering and I found myself steering clear of the display.

    Under: This is a tough one because I think there are any number of hidden gems out there that people don't discuss as much. I think Zino certainly qualifies, but also think that Carolina's first men's fragrance, though it does get some recognition, deserves more.

  18. #18
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    overrated: Serge Lutens and L'Artisan lines (except Iris Silver Mist and Dzing!)

    underrated: the house of MPG (which is so superior to L'Artisan, its not even funny)
    -

  19. #19

    CologneJunkie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    I too am not going to name any frag as "overrated." Who am I to call a frag that may be someone's holy grail "overrated?"

    I know the majority of basenoters stick their nose up at Calvin Klein...but CK be is totally spectacular, and is underrated here.
    "Wait...is David Bowie really God?" - Penelope Garcia

  20. #20

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    I think that CK Be is underrated nowadays and still remains a unique scent.

  21. #21

    CologneJunkie's Avatar
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Quote Originally Posted by ck__
    I think that CK Be is underrated nowadays and still remains a unique scent.
    Excellent first post, I like you already . Welcome to basenotes!
    "Wait...is David Bowie really God?" - Penelope Garcia

  22. #22

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    I think there's no overrated scent here: for each scent you can find within five minutes 10 people vomiting when smelling it.
    Underrated - pehaps Dali Laguna PH. Not a fresh bottle, but after some months it has an extremely good dry-down, mosy compliments received when wearing it.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Quote Originally Posted by Words
    Underrated: Diptyque Oyedo-doesnt get nearly the amount of play on here that it should, especially as a Summer/Spring scent.
    Damn right! Words, I can assure you that I've recommended Oyedo on a couple of summer/spring threads, in the past. This stuff is truly amazing. Lifesavers?!! What's that?

  24. #24

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Most overrated I feel are GIT and some of the SL scents,
    Underrated I feel are the IL Profvmo range and MPG's Ambre Precieux and Santal Noble........
    These opinions are based on my PERSONAL taste ofcourse......
    Current Favourites: Touaregh -Il Profumo/ Le Vainqueur- Rue Rance/ Versus Uomo -Versace/ Sculpture -Nikos/ Acier Aluminium - Creed/ Santal Noble - MPG

  25. #25

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Wow...

    GIT is my personal fave. It's fresh without being annoyingly so. But to each their own.

    I would have to agree that many BNers (myself included) tend to underrate popular designer frags like the CK's or at times Armanis, etc.

  26. #26
    _R$_'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Yeah, I smelled RSVP by Kenneth Cole, and thought "Actually, it's not bad!"
    - Rich
    As always, disregard most of what I say. It's not worth your heart health to actually worry about what a 23 year old guy from Kansas thinks. Even if he is really ridiculously good looking.

  27. #27
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Overrated

    Creed
    , by a longshot.

    A couple of underrated houses

    Diptyque
    - Eau Lente, Opôné, Philosykos, L'Eau Trois, others

    Parfums de Nicolai - New York, Carre d'As, Sacrebleu, others
    Last edited by pluran; 22nd February 2007 at 02:59 AM.

  28. #28
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran
    Overrated

    Creed, by a longshot. For the most part they're vapid and anorexic.
    No one studies a Serge Lutens perfumer either. And get ready for a few more smashing Lutens reviews by me coming soon
    -

  29. #29
    Echo777's Avatar
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    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Qualifications of "overrated" and "underrated" are subject to the audience we are considering. For example, a Basenotes member may think that Creed is overrated (and many may agree) but to people who aren't junkies, Creed don't mean a thing. I might think that GIT and Himalaya are overrated, but the overwhelming majority of Americans (that I know) have never heard of them.

    It reminds me of five years ago when my friend and I thought (singer) Bright Eyes was overrated. The average music fan had probably never heard of him.

    That said, I think Calvin Klein is vastly overrated. Sure, Obssesion is nice, and most of his stuff is "safe", but it's hardly worth the price. This is in the realm of "non-Basenoters" mind you; few here think of CK as the creme de la creme of colognes.

    Also overrated: nearly anything from Hugo Boss, Davidoff, newer Ralph Lauren releases in general (Blue, Black, whatever...), anything that smells cheap but doesn't come cheap. A few of the Bond No. 9 scents as well. Most D & G for men. The new Dior Homme.

    Underrated: Rive Gauche Light, Safari by RL, most of the Caswell-Massey line for men, Lorenzo Villoresi, Gucci Rush maybe even Pour Homme, Eau Sauvage Xtreme, Halstons, many of the Comme des Garcon entries, Creed Vetiver '48, Polo Sport Extreme, SMW, Escada PH, yada yada yada...

  30. #30

    Default Re: Most overrated and underrated

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran
    Overrated

    Creed
    , by a longshot. For the most part they're vapid and anorexic.

    Scentemental's words work well here. He was responding to a thread regarding Oliver Creed being one of the great perfumers.

    Creed as a house by its very nature is an anachronism. Simple formulas using mostly natural ingredients to produce simple effects. A house base that pretty much runs through all their fragrances. What many people fail to understand is that in terms of the huge achievements of modern perfumery, Olivier Creed is little more than an amateur with lots of money mixing essential oils, while the great perfumers such as François Coty, Ernest Beaux, Earnest Daltroff, Jean Carles, Edmond Roundnitska, Jean Paul Guerlain, Jean Kerleo, to name a few, have produced monuments of originality through the intersection of chemistry and art and have defined the direction of modern perfumery and its perfumes. If one honestly doesn't know who these perfumers are and if one honestly doesn't know their creations, on what possible basis can one claim that "Olivier Creed is the world's greatest living nose". Sophia Grojsman with the creation of Trésor in 1990 basically out of 4 aromachemicals has had more influence on the direction of modern perfumery than Olivier Creed could ever hope to have and as yet hasn't had in the slightest. Olivier Creed might be a legend in his own mind and in the minds of Creed acolytes, certainly, but in the big bad and real world of perfumery and its history and its momentous achievements in the field of aromachemistry, he is irrelevant. A truer measure of Olivier Creed's influence and centrality to modern perfumery would be to say a footnote to a footnote. When students at all the great perfume schools study to be a perfumer, they don't study Creeds as part of their training. They start by trying to match the perfumes and fragrances of the truly great modern noses as a way of being intiated into the complex, modern art of perfumery. Creeds don't even rate a look in these schools. Modern perfumery has moved away from 18th century modes of production and conceptions. Like I said, Creed is an anachronism and is irrelevant to present and the future development of the art of perfumery. Olivier Creed "the world's greatest living nose"? Not even close. This whole thread is a joke, right?

    A couple of underrated houses

    Diptyque
    - (Eau Lente, Opôné, Philosykos, others)

    Parfums de Nicolai - (not a weak fragrance among them, and several greats including New York (one of the best I own), Carre d'As, Sacrebleu, and Odalisque)
    This thread is meant to be light hearted.
    Funnily enough I read this the other day, along with another anti-creed rant by the same writer. I respect his knowledge greatly, but not that particular aspect of his opinion. I believe the agressiveness with which it is written betrays the lack of cool objectivity expressed.

    I prefer old school perfumery where a few fine natural smelling notes have a chance to shine. I also prefer bebop jazz, a fifty-sixty year old style, to other music. Has music moved on to electronics making Bach, Charlie Parker and others redundant?

    Other people prefer complex blends with different qualities of smell and long development. I have no problem with that. I can see the art in that too, I just don't like it as much. Creed does what it does very well, in my opinion. Quite possibly, it does it better than anyone else.

    I believe that the creed lineup is stronger in its mens scents than its womens and that is the reason it gets so much attention here and less on other fora where womens scents are the focus. In some ways, I think scents such as neroli sauvage and selection verte are way underrated.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

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