Thank you for that wonderful review and Sweet Oriental Dreams sounds right up my alley. Will it ever end?
Thread: Montale Reviews
Everyone with Montale samples or bottles is invited to participate in this thread.
People have expressed an interest in trying this line, but they wonder where to start.
In addition to the Aoud line, Montale makes many fragrances. I think there are 35 in total.
So, come on, join us in and let us know what you think.
I'd like to start the thread with my favorites, Montale's oud + rose fragrances. There's something here for everyone. Woody roses are like a Crusade for me. I've tried to sample all of those from Montale's line, side-by-side, so you can determine which would be best for you. All things being relative, please know this--Montale's roses tend to be big, and his ouds tend to be bold. That being said, here are the comparisons:
Oud + Rose Fragrances
Aoud Rose Petals - Strong roses. Cool, lemony geranium. Bittersweet oud.
Black Aoud - Medium roses. Warm, orange and patchouli. Bittersweet oud.
Aoud Queen Roses - Strong roses. Fragrant spices. Sweet, diffusive base. Milder oud.
Attar - Medium roses. Fragrant spices. Sweet, rich sandalwood. Smooth oud.
Aoud Damascus - Mellow roses. Light, sweet base. Mildest oud.
Aoud Rose Petals
Notes: rose, geranium, amber, cedar, teak, oud.
Rosy, cool, woody. Holy Grail of woody roses. Oud starts out with a leathery bitterness. A cool, strong, airy rose kicks in, tempered by lemony geranium. The oud backs off. The rose grows and sweetens for hours. Indescribable satisfaction for that rose craving. Bouquet of red roses wrapped in a black leather jacket. The scent of deep roses wafting in on a cool breeze.
Notes: rose, mandarin, musk, patchouli, oud.
Warm, rosy, woody. Holy Grail of rose + patchouli. If you like earthy roses, this one is devastatingly beauritful. Oud starts out bitter then gives way to a combination of dark rose and sweet orange. The entire fragrance is warmed up by earthy patchouli. Gothic roses. Glowing, neon roses. The menfolk adore this. Sexy, sexy. Unisexy.
Aoud Queen Rose
Notes: rose, hibiscus, oud.
Rosy, sweet, spicy. Most feminine version of oud + rose. If you want lots of roses but don't want to wade through the bitter oud, this one is right for you. Strong roses carried aloft by a sweet, extremely diffusive base. Great, grand sillage. Sweetness is tempered by fragrant spices (of the "salty" variety, like saffron or curry.) Fun, bold, exotic.
Notes: sandalwood, rose, oud.
Sweet, spicy, rosy. Smooth oud. Rich, elegant sandalwood provides great sweetness. The sandalwood alone is reason enough to try this fragrance. A medium rose presents itself along with fragrant spices (of the "salty" variety, like saffron or curry.) If the rose in Aoud Queen Rose is too much for you, this is the way to go. Rich, deep, intoxicating.
Notes: rose, oliban, gurgum, oud.
Sweet, subtle, rosy. Mellow roses accompanied by a light, sweet base. No oud bitterness. Notes are well-integrated. The olibdanum (which is incense resin) and gurgum (which I believe is safflower) do not present themselves distinctly, but merely scent the mix. Tamest oud offereing in the line. Amazingly, some people still think it is harsh. Goes to show how perceptions differ.
Another oud fragrance, but without roses:
Aoud Cuir d'Arabie
Notes: tobacco, leather, burned wood, oud.
Raw, pungent, smoky. Leather for the S & M set. Cigarettes and latex. When the smoke dispels, the leather remains, still bold, but with a more natural aroma. There is a surprising, creative mint interval that I cannot explain. If I had any guts, I would wear this downtown to the Cinema XXX and see who follows me.
Now for the Non-Oud fragrances:
Vetiver Des Sables
Notes: vetiver, mahogany, iodine note, Indian spices.
Wonderful rendition of vetiver. Lemony and grassy right out front. Refined, non-smoky, un-harsh. Salty and spicy underneath. Clean without soapiness. Lightly sweet and very fresh. As it dries, it acquies a haylike note. Long-lasting, and the vetiver stays true to the end. I love this.
Soleil De Capri
Notes: citrus, grapefruit, kumquat, white flowers, white musk, Mediterranean spices.
This is one of my favorite citrus scents. It is a wonderful grapefruit fragrance. Natural-smelling citrus, perfect and juicy. I can imagine the oil bursting into the air from the peelings of the opened fruit. Don't expect hours of strong projection, just enjoy it with all your heart while it lasts. I don't smell the floral and spice notes--but they do a teriffic job supporting the citrus. Beautiful.
Notes: patchouli, vanilla, amber, musk.
I recommend this patchouli to anyone seeking a sweet, smooth, but "true" version of this note. This is like a creamy, dreamy, stripped-down Oriental base. It is sweet patchouli, as simple and as enjoyable as it gets. Good longevity, and the patchouli remains warm and sweet throughout. Has the soft edges and chocolatey, musty aroma of nice, aged patchouli.
Notes: Sea notes, juniper berries, sandalwood, oakmoss.
Oceanic. Smells as "open" as a fragrance can get. Starts out breezy, airy, and spacious. A nice marine note (in the opinion of a person who is picky about marine notes.) Smart pairing of juniper berries and oakmoss create a dry, woody accord that is the best part of this fragrance. As the sandalwood warms, it provides a pleasant sweetness which never overwhelms the salty underpinnings. Juniper berries are rarely found in a women's fragrance, neither are marine fragrances without florals or fruits. That, in particular, is a good reason to try this. I think it is unisex.
Notes: rose, mandarin, lily-of-the-valley, white musk, ambergris.
Opens with a big breath of ultra-clean, "oxygen" type musk. Salty, sweet, clean musk and fresh, lemony rose. A deceptively light fragrance. I put it on, forgot about it after the initial rush, and it kept returning its fragrance to me, over and over. A beguiling, clean, skin scent. Friendly, happy.
Sweet Oriental Dream
Notes: rose, Turkish delight (loukhoum), almonds, honey
Almonds and honey, not much rose, but mercifully not too sweet, either. Less distinctly almond than the Serge Lutens Rahät Loukoum. Gourmand without being cloying. I don't wear gourmands, not because I don't like them, but because they make me hungry. This is a good one.
Thank you for that wonderful review and Sweet Oriental Dreams sounds right up my alley. Will it ever end?
There are 39 Montale fragrances that I know of. ParfumsRaffy.com has a list of 35, two they don't list is Montale's Steam Oud and Taif Rose. There are also two brand new releases called White Oud and Rose Musk. I've had 35 of them to sample but I didn't make any notes and have passed many on to other sniffers already.
Strong and dense amber with vanilla with a modest well blended oud note, slight powder--the oud and powder give me an incense/smoky impression. Actual note list not yet available.
Blue Amber *
Notes: bergamot, bourbon geranium, coriander, ambergris, vanilla
This was a must have for me, the amber hater. It's fresh and uplifting yet deeply supported by a gray velvet ambergris, and a dry vanilla. Serene, warm and elegant.
White Musk *
Notes: violet leaf, ylang ylang, purely feminine white musk, bourbon geranium
My other Montale must buy so far. Startling fresh, crisp, lightly sweet green floral musk. Ylang ylang is pronounced.
Notes: orange blossom, pomegranite, musk, patchouli, ylang ylang
Tart, moist, fruity, light and slightly earthy musk. Gives a thicker sense than White Musk and yet stays closer to the skin as though held behind a fog bank.
Notes: sparking ginger, blackberry, white musk, red berries
A flash of nose tingling ginger followed by LOTS of berries a gentle bit of white musk. The berries are very pronounced and clear--no sugar added.
My nose is shot for today, from wearing the above three musks!
Last edited by Shycat; 26th February 2007 at 05:11 PM.
Notes: Jasmine, Orange blossom, honeysuckle
This jasmine is so breathtakingly beautiful it almost hurts. It opens up with lots and lots of white florals with a little green peeking through. Never too heady or cloying. Good sillage and it excellent longevity. A Jasmine for jasmine lovers!
This could turn into a nice Montale lookup thread - I will return with my mini reviews shortly. I need to revisit the samples.
I have a bottle of GREYLAND and it's one of the few cumin-heavy scents that I can tolerate. Kingdom sends me running, Diptyque L'autre makes me feel like a curry restaurant, but Greyland mixes it up with fresh citrusy elements and some woods to make an all around pleasant experience. If you can't stand cumin, you'll probably want to stay clear, but it is a definitely interesting and spicy warm weather fragrance.
Fougeres Marine: Not bad, but not great. I love the really pungent Montales, but this one feels too conventional, almost like if Creed played a hand at remaking Tommy. If you want a marine that smells Creedlike without being the ubiquitous GIT, this may be a good choice, but otherwise I'd move on to some others instead.
Chypre Vanille: Pungent, dry, almost astringent vanilla. I really like it, but it definitely isn't a soft, sweet, nice vanilla. If Miel de bois is "feral honey," then maybe this is "feral vanilla."
Last edited by rach2jlc; 8th December 2007 at 11:42 PM.
Is there any point in saying everything? -Basho
Soleil De Capri: This doesnt really work for me. The opening burst of citrus and grapefruit is pleasant enough, however it lasts for all of 5 seconds. From there, the citrus morphs into something sweet and floral - the kamquat fruit is the key ingredient here, and it provides the "juicy gum" accord which is so dominant here. I would like some more mediterranean spices in the mix here, please. There are too many other more slickly composed citruses to take this one seriously.
Vetiver Des Sables: Lots of mint and spices kick off this vetiver frag. Seconds later, the vetiver note creeps out - but it never comes out of the closet. This is an easy to wear vetiver fragrance, but unfortunately it doesnt contain a whole lot of vetiver. I tried layering it with the fruity Soleil De Capri and the result was somewhat androgynous. As the fragrance evolves, the vetiver is drowned out by the spice notes. Vetiver Sables definitely can't stand shoulder to shoulder with serious vetivers like Vetiver Extraordinaire, guerlain Vetiver, MPG Route De Vetiver, or Creed Vetiver '48, and it lacks the allure of fellow easy vetivers like Creed Original Vetiver or MPG Racine. Close, but no cigar (or vetiver in this case).
I will be back with some of the more impressive Montales later
I am in one hundred percent agreement with this, well said! This is so far at the top of my wish list for Montale. Truly beautiful.Originally Posted by julia7
"Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189
What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache
For any Montale fans in the UK I have just bought 100ml Blue Amber direct from their website for £43.00. USA prices are much higher.
Notes: bergamot, bourbon geranium, coriander, ambergris, vanilla
A beautiful warm and comforting fragrance.
Thank you for adding the fragrances I have missed, good people.
Some of those will be on my list to try, they sound sumptuous.
I had a nice collection of samples--not a "bad" one in the bunch. I think this is a fun and interesting house.
However, this is not meant to be a cheering section for Montale. I confess, I have a big heart for love when it comes to fragrance...
We seek your opinions, positive and negative. Go ahead and write 'em up. This is all about openness, and no one gets offended.
Thank you so much for the reviews!
Sandalsliver: Bright, musky and vanillic. The fragrance formerly known as Skin. This is a somewhat unsuccessful attempt by Montale at a fun yet sensual scent. The brash citrus opening segues into a floral musky accord with a tangy twist (probably a result of the sandalwood, floral and vanilla notes mingling with the citrus top). It smells pleasant and inoffensive enough, but it lacks identity. Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur has bigger balls and is consequently a more sensual juice.
Aoud Damascus: A honeymoon escapade of rose and aoud. Its compositionally simple, but the end result is beautiful. A luscious rose note is the highlight here, with the aoud (thankfully) in the supporting role. The pairing of rose and aoud might sound like a heavy hitting combo of a Mcdonald's buffet-like proportion but the use of gurgum lends a herbal minty freshness to the entire composition. Like all blissful honeymoons, the fun ends too soon.
Thanks purplebird for starting this interesting thread, I was really looking forward to it!
Let me start by stating that although I own samples of a few aoud-based Montales (Royal Oud, Oud Rose Pétales, Oud Queen Rose) , I won't say a word about them...not yet. I am still trying to understand the humid, decaying, camphorous wood note that is aoud to my nose and the fact that it is so often paired with rose doesn't help much either. But I still have hopes for the new White Oud
I would add that all the Montales I tried have tremendous lasting power, so a little goes a long way.
Notes: almond, vanilla, ?
This should be a must sniff for any almond scent collector, at least for its originality. Interesting roasted almond with smoky vanilla and rubber, it is sweet but nowhere in the Turkish Delight land of Sweet Oriental Dreams.
Notes: spices, sandalwood, iodine, musk
I smell a hint of fruit (pink grapefruit?) in the opening, then the salty note of sea waves takes over, grounded by a very soft musk. It dries down to an edgeless, meh cologne.
Notes: jasmine, rose, osmanthus, cedarwood, tonka
Similar to a hundred other powdery floral scents, to my nose it smells of oily, old lipstick. With many excuses to those who love it!
Notes: vanilla pond, precious woods, clove, cinnamon, olive
As the name states, vanilla is the uncompromising, overwhelming star here, with cameo roles for the other notes. This is the mother of all vanilla fragrances, but way overpriced for such a straightforward scent.
Notes: Tibetan rockrose, iris, incense, vanilla, amber, sandalwood, tonka, vétiver
Non-sweet perfume lovers, recoil from this! A solid block of sweet incense-y woody goodness, it is outrageously addictive, as in I want to smell it every day but then, I found out I wouldn’t wear it more often than once a month, and lately, not at all…..
Notes: tiare, ylang-ylang, vanilla, coconut milk, jasmine, roses
The strong, crystal-clear scent of a tropical holiday, it’s like floating in a pool filled with coconut milk and tiaré flowers and nothing else, looking skyward into the bluest blue.
I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker
Wow. Still more Montales--many more.
People's reactions to them are varied and interesting.
Well, love 'em or hate 'em, this house seems to encompass the whole range of olfactive families.
(No one has done Oud Lime yet. I was curious about this one. Any takers?)
I've had the pleasure of sampling several Montale fragrances, but unfortunately have had NO time for my perfume hobby lately, so don't have reviews for most of them. Here's a couple that I did before the semester (and the freakin' homework) got rolling:
Sweet Oriental Dream-
My favorite of the bunch so far, though it's almost silly to compare because it's so different from the others. On me the opening is gorgeous rose with sweet honeyed almond . . .the rose and the nuttiness serve to keep it from falling into 'way too sweet' territory, though it does teeter on the edge for a while, and for some would certainly topple over - I just happen to like some sweet fragrances. I've never smelled loukhoum, but as this warms on my skin I get the sugary jam, vanilla, and more of the honey-like note that is so much richer than any actual honey I've smelled, and I imagine that loukhoum would be divine. Not a lot of development except that the rose fades out of the composition, which I find a bit disappointing, as the rose compliments the sweet foody notes brilliantly. But overall this is outrageously lovely to me. Also, I got my first 'real' fragrance compliment while wearing this (by 'real' I mean that it didn't come from a boy who had just nuzzled my neck)
This opens with equal parts patchouli and aoud, with a bit of mandarin, and faint rose. As it develops the aoud falls back a bit, and the rose and mandarin inch forward, serving to slightly sweeten and warm the fragrance. The patchouli and aoud just seem made for one another here; they dovetail to create a dark, textured feeling that suits the name of the fragrance. Again, not a lot of development on me. This is the most wearable of the Aouds so far...
The open is very herbal/medicinal, but with that gorgeous Montale rose again. My initial impression was 'nail salon': acetone and acrylic. But 10 minutes later the rose has emerged victorious over the harsh opening notes, and is lovely - gentle and smooth. But overall, this is still too medicinal for me...it made me a bit nauseous so I ended up washing it off.
Are you listening Pigeon?Originally Posted by purplebird7
Watch out, here it comes ...Originally Posted by purplebird7
Aoud Lime : One of my earliest forays into the house of Montale's offerings, I revisitied Aoud Lime again today. On paper, it sounds fantastic: Patchouli leaves, Aoud, Sandalwood, Ambre, Iris, Saffron. However, the oud kills this one. It begins loudly - a lime/bergamot oud combo with neither overpowering the other. It is an attractively opening, but within minutes the oud squeezes every last juice out of these lemons. After 15 minutes, whats most perceptible is an oud-y drydown with no lemons, but with subtle traces of saffron and patchouli. I feel that if the saffron and patchouli concentrations were bumped up to counter the powerful oud note, Aoud Lime would have fared better. Unfortunately, what you are left with is a mild variation on the oud theme which fails to live up to its potential.
Great reviews Purplebird!
I'm quite taken with the house of Montale too! Here’s my take on some of them:
Soft, fresh, sweet, tropical- this has a happy, sunny tone to it. Only a touch of coconut and nothing synthetic smelling about this tiare. The dryout is simply luscious to the end. The best tiare I’ve ever had the pleasure of trying. Like most Montales, this one is powerful though, only a few drops and you’re good to go.
Sweet Oriental Dream:
I was surprised to like this one so much. I got hooked on the sweet, honeyed rose. I also get a touch of cherry tobacco. Nothing play-dough about this one- it is rich, smooth and absolutely fabulous. Another one that lasts and lasts.
Aoud Rose Petals:
I’m not a huge, straight rose fan, so this was another surprise. The medicinal note of the oud acts like a memory catalyst for me. I am transported to “winter.” I get beloved woolens and moth balls, a deep, velvety rose perfume is left over from last early spring, just beyond this is the scent of cold, crisp air and the promise of snow. So evocative! A deep red rose with a touch of tea rose all juxtaposed against this camphoric oud- amazing, weird, mesmerizing and utterly intoxicating.
So far, the above I deem FBW- especially the Intense Tiare (I will be starting my second decant of that one.)
Other ones I have sampled but don’t own:
Oh- oh- oh- this smells so familiar- like a parfum my mother would have worn from long ago. It smells even, demure, well blended, subtle. The topnotes are just wonderful but from another era.
The fragrance isn't really warm or cool- between the two. Softly sweet and very slightly floral with a gentle spiciness. I really can't put my finger on any one note- it seems so well blended. There is a kind of fatty or buttery note slightly riding above the sweet/floral/spicy blend.
Another one that opens like "moth balls," woolens, the smell of winter and snow. It's warm, but chilly, light and very interesting. A very light, candied rose, very well blended, pleasant, a little sweet, but not obnoxious. I wouldn't consider it "sexy" but it's an oud I think I could wear.
Definitely a vanilla with a strong, leathery, animalic edge- wears almost like a skin musk- smooth, warm, strong and yet "not there" at the same time- the "skin thing." There is a soft, fruity aspect to this too but it's very slight, soft and in the background. I also smell an "oiliness" slightly reminiscent of civet or petroleum jelly- it's not unpleasant, just there. For some reason this reminds me of Caron's Narcius Noir- not that they actually smell a lot alike- they don't really. However, the mood they both conjure is very similar to me.
A couple hours later I realize this smells an awful lot like an Etro I know- Gomma. It has that same, clean sort of leathery smell and just a touch of floral.
Almost a dead ringer for SL’s Ambre Sultan on opening- golden ambery, softly sweet and slightly nutty. A couple minutes later it gets a bit more herbal, minty, not quite green, but a little fresher less ambry sweet, but still herbal/sweet. I can smell the patchouli coming through now. The fragrance is still quite smooth though- nothing harsh or jarring about it. I often find patchouli harsh or jarring and this is not at all. Well into the dryout it has settled back into something very similar to SL Ambre Sultan. It's quite lovely and seductive, but too similar to stand on its own.
A warm, sweet, soft jasmine with lots of promise. A fairly straightforward scent, yet has that Montale “purity.” The dryout takes a turn toward soapiness and I find I’m less enchanted here. Still, one of the better jasmines out there.
Oud infused with the deepest of rich, rose petals. Lovely, soft, demure, velvety- but Aoud Rose Petals already had won my heart.
Scent is such a lovely, simple pleasure!
The Montales I have tried so far (thank you Vijay!!) are:
Jasmine Full - very luscious, indolic floral scent. My favourite by far!
Sweet Oriental Dream - nice for those days when you want to feel
cosseted and feminine. Perhaps too sweet for regular use.
Sandsliver - I found this to be very non-descript on my skin. Not my
Can't say I like the Ouds that much - too dark and "tarry" for my taste.
Everyone who has not joined in, keep those reviews coming. It doesn't matter if the fragrance has been covered yet, because YOUR opinions might be different from those listed already. This thread is going to offer quite complete coverage of the whole Montale line, so publish your opinion while you have the opportunity. We are doing very well.
TDanae, I bet you would like Sweet Oriental Dream. I should find some good loukoum to send to you. My favorite ones are rose flavored with pistachios. The rose is light, more fragrance than flavor. It doesn't hit you on the head like the typical fruit flavors in regular candy. They are chewy, like extremely soft gummy bears.
Silvergirl, those were great reviews. I'm sorry your perfume habits have been interrupted by less fun activities. Such is life.
Julia7, that Jasmine Full is calling me. I have only recently made peace with jasmine after an unpleasant experience with a cheap, harsh, bottle of essential oil back in the 1970s. Ouch. It's time to get re-acquainted, and the Montale sounds like a nice re-introduction.
Shycat, thanks for talking about the White Oud, which you reviewed so nicely here: http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=193094
and White Musk, Dew Musk, and Ginger Musk. I need to fall in love with a musk. The problem is, I used to love nitro musks--POW--and I have yet to lose my heart to a modern musk. And to you and Jacquia, for your reviews of Blue Amber (which I must try, based on your description because I am currently on a vanilla and amber quest)
rach2JLC, thanks for mentioning Greyland. I enjoyed the drydown of Kingdom very much, but I don't think I can wade through the cumin to get there again. At least not in public. I would wear it at home until I got to the sandalwood part, and then go out. Even Gucci was a little much in the cumin department.Greyland might be one for me to try.
Zztop, thanks for your take on Vetiver Des Sables. I loved it, but I defer to your greater experience with vetivers. I have only tried Creed Original Vetiver, Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire, and Montale Vetiver Des Sables. I liked them all. (Too bad Guerlain Vetiver has been reformulated, I always wanted to try that one.) And to think, I used to dislike vetiver...
I'm glad you posted about Sandalsilver. I got that one mixed up with Sandflower, and when I smelled it, I thought, "This is a MARINE scent. What is wrong with my nose?" It turned out, I had confused the names. (Whew.) I still want to try it, though. Skin scents intrigue me.
Lady in Black, thanks for filling many more of the omissions with your reviews and frank opinions of Amandes Orientales, Embruns d'Essaouira (which, by the way, is a city in Morocco), Powder Flowers (which Kumquat is also currently testing) Vanille Absolu, and Chypré Vanillé. Who would have expected such sweetness in a chypre? Not me. But I guess Miss Dior has alot of labdanum, too.
Artisankey, you got alot covered for us, including the Aoud Amber. And that is a nice way to describe it, like those mom-scents from chilhood.
The oud in Aoud Rose Petals does, indeed, serve as a "memory catalyst" for the rose. It makes me flash back to a big, white, glass jar of rose-scented face cream. It is a creative rose, very addictive. I have a bottle and enjoy it immensely. I think the rose is too much for most men. For them, the Black Aoud is better. In the same way, I think Aoud Queen Rose is "paired" with Attar, similar aromas, with one better for each gender.
Chypre Vanille, now that's an odd one, isn't it? Your description has me totally interested in trying it.
I never thought to compare Patchouli Leaves with Ambre Sultan, but now that you say so, I can see it. I knew there was a reason why I liked it, because the Sultan is my favorite Serge Lutens. Patchouli Leaves is less complex, though, lacking the dry spices of the other.
That leaves us with holes only in:
Aoud Pur Orintale, Royal Aoud, Steam Aoud, Chypre Fruite, Orient Extreme, Wood and Spices, Fougeres Marines, Aromatic Lime, and Velvet Flowers.
Maisonstinky, where are you?
Vijay, it's fair of us to enlist you now to fill in the blanks. Then we have a complete Montale Reviews thread to bookmark for future reference.
Last edited by purplebird7; 1st March 2007 at 01:59 PM.
I decided that White Oud was still too much amber oud for me. The rest of my decant is on it's way to moondeva even as we speak, for a second opinion!
purplebird7, I would highly recommend Guerlain Vetiver - I haven't tried the original version, but the reformulated version still compares quite favorably to all the aforementioned vetivers. It might be a bit more citrusy than the original, but it still contains hefty amounts of vetiver, and a rich base of tobacco. I consider it far superior to Vetiver Des Sables at a fraction of the cost ($22 for a 4.2 oz bottle at many online retailers!)Originally Posted by purplebird7
I am here and have been following this thread with great interest ( in between two projects at work I have been trying to finish), as you know its not a hidden secret that I am intigued by this line a lot.Originally Posted by purplebird7
Everybody has done a great job .
Purplebird I did PM you on this I hope you got a chance to read that.
I will post my comments on some Montale scents I promise you , as soon as I get these projects out of the way. I am not as good as some of the members here in writing, but I will give it a try.
Let me just comment on one that is my favorite in the women's line
It starts of a little heady but settles down to a most beautiful true Jasmine scent that I have ever smelt. It does remind me of the nice cool spring evenings when I used to stroll in my neighborhood as a young boy. Some neighbors had the Jasmine in the front yards, and the scent of the fresh flowers would permeate the surrounding area. This was the best time in my life as a young boy growing up in India. I had absolutely no worries at that time, maybe that is why I like this so much, associating the scent to that particular time in my life.
Some people have commented that it is a bit indolic, but I really feel that Pierre Montale's blending of Honeysuckle and Orange Blossom with Jasmine hides that perfectly. True Jasmine by itself is quite indolic.
I will add a little tidbit of a story with this. I had posted this on another thread also. I was showing the Montale scents to a lady, who was testing them. She liked the Jasmin Full, and I made a comment that I really like this scent a lot, and if a woman wore it and walked by me I would follow that woman all around the world, even if she put me on a leash. Well she bought it instantly. She walked in the following day in the store ( I could smell the Jasmin Full on her) , with a leash in her hand.
No I will not finish the rest of the story .
I will post some more as time permits.
My comments on attar and later a comparison with black oud copied from the men's forum:
Note Attar is listed as a mens frag by Montale
It goes on with a good (slightly transparent) oud and roses which emerge from the almost sacharin sweet trademark of the montale ouds which I have tried (it disappears fast, anyone know what this is?). The oud's "medicinal" quality drops off fairly quickly, being less present than in the fragrances with oud in ther name, leaving a heart of roses with a ghost of oud that has been and a ghost of sandal to come.
As time progresses, the sandalwood note emerges to underpin the rose and the balance slowly shifts as the rose drops away leaving a light drydown where all three notes are present.
Bearing in mind that my nose is not at its best I found that this fragrance is not the sillage monster that the ouds are, it is less loud and in this more wearable. Its longevity also seems a little lower, which may be good as those ouds seem to last for a couple of days sometimes.
It is fudementally a rose fragrance with dressing. The rose note is very good to my (ailing) nose, especially after the sweetness drops away a little. The sadalwood I am not so sure about. it is not a big sharp biting santal like in santal imperial (creed) but more smooth and woody - it reminds me of a sandalwood in a fine well made incense. It blends well with the rest of the frag though.
and later I posted
Its the next morning now and I still get the sandalwood drydown, though again it doesn't have the sharp (almost BO ish) quality which I associate with mysore santal.
and still later:
Well my cold has finally lifted away and I retested Attar again today. I mostly stand by my earlier comments, except I got the sandawood a little earlier. Its longevity and sillage are definitely lower than the aouds. It has a pleasing, simple structure with a fine rose note and a pretty good underpinning sandalwood. This is a rose feature though.
I also wore some black oud from a sample for comparison. The black begins with a much heavier oud and the rose takes a little time to break through. When it does it is a flood, and not a dissimilar rose note to the attar. The black however veers off in an altogether more complex direction with patchouli coming in strong and some other musky notes and perhaps a bit of "dirt". Not as smooth as the attar in its transitions, it sits a bit too loud and brash for my taste.
And I have a totally different take on Oud Lime. I spent a day with it recently. As a citrus lover I do not detect any actual lime in this, there is an accord of Iris and Rose which gives a kind of fresh but limey impression. I can picture it as a hollow lime, like a section in the middle of its smell profile has been chopped out where the rich fruity part resides. There is also a big oud. The juxtaposition of the highly vibrant, slightly sharp brightness with the darkness of the oud is slightly strange but quite pleasing for me. The iris drops off, leaving a good rose and oud with a tinge of white which fades into a lovely clear foundation of palpable ambergris with some sandalwood and a little patchouli. The base structure is very nicely balanced and something of a surprise to me.
this is a very fine fragrance and my favourite of the montale aouds. It has great presence but doesn't shout like some of the others, more like a strong and persistent whisper than the aria of black oud (which I also like).
You have to be careful applying this as it takes time to come alive. It reaches full projection about 30 minutes after application and then stays bright for another one to two hours with the powerful oud and the subtle offset of the kumkwat and other citrus before it morphs again.
Then something strange and magical occurs. From the sillage, a beautiful but subtle (compared to black oud) rose note emerges. Smelling close up, this seems to vanish into oud for me, but it is there from a distance. I am not sure how this is achieved, but it is beautiful and impressive.
One of my all time favourites.
Black Aoud-- This reminds me of Paestum Rose by L'Italie but it is a bit cooler, with an almost mint or menthol effect which may be due to some pine or resinous base. It ends a little more musky and I think I'm getting myrrh and balsam. I think I prefer Paestum. This is higher pitched , in general a leathery damask rose with musk.
Cuir d'Arabie-- Fresh leather with a bit of hay. There's a light mint, maybe vetiver? This goes flat on me and reminds me of those red erasers on top of yellow pencils. Weird.
Attar--Earthy, warm rose. Sexy and leathery and slightly green. A very reasonable rose. Spicey,not too girlie or perfumey.
Patchouli Leaves--This was the best and biggest surprise. I tried this a while ago and didn't leave it on long enough. Now I think I might have to get a bottle. This is yummy and different from every other patch I've tried. The bergamot and lime forms fresh green as they're fused with the amber and musk. There's probably something else holding them together but whatever it is, the effect is mesmerizing. I couldn't stop sniffing my arm. A fresh gourmand effect without the hunger or overly sweet feel.
Soleil di Capri--I'm reminded of Dolce & Gabana Light Blue at first, but then there is less sweetness and none of the green apple. As it turns out, this is definitely a fresh clean male scent. It gets smoky and the balsams or sages kick in at the end and seal the deal. Great for men who like a smoky grapefruit. Very sunny.
Chypre Vanille--This has a split effect difficult to imagine...green and vanilla. The two are distinctly together yet separate.It reminded me of something, then it hit me--cream soda with mint leaves. Kind of nice but not my favorite. Definitely male.
Powder Flowers--Almond is strong out of the gate, then it turns more powdery. I'm talking big powder! It is like Johnson's Baby Powder but then it gets better and reminds me of Chanel #5 without the aldehydes.
Rose Petals--Tea Roses with some green which gives a lifting sensation. this isn't a favorite rose of mine. I think this kind of rose is best in small doses and this is too over the top for me. If you love the sweet girlie rose, you'll flip for this. Very sophisticated but dangerously strong.
Blue Amber--Another one I changed my mind about. I like the simplicity here. A sweetness from the amber tempered with depth. It has to cook on you for the full effect. A gourmand but not the annoying salivating kind.
Oriental Extreme--This is also a male fragrance. At first it is very like SL Amber Sultan. However it is less unisex. Less amber and more sandalwood.
As it dries the masculine side develops. It's very sophisticated with spices that are woven together and difficult to isolate and identify.It would be great for someone wanting to try different and bold. You couldn't go wrong.
That's my take on these so far. I'm missing a few. They are all interesting but heavily weighted toward masculine in terms of number, it seems.
zztop - I'm glad to hear the Guerlain Vetiver is still good after the reformulation. I learned my lesson with the Mitsouko. It may be different, but it is still good, and the best thing to do is to embrace the new version wholeheartedly. If the Guerlain Vetiver uses tobacco in the base, I am sure to like it.
Maisonstinky - That was a great story. Are you sure we can't talk you into divulging the ending. Awwww. I am threatening to imagine the worst things now. Bow-wow, woof-woof, etc.
India is on my list of must-see places in my life. How beautiful it must have been to wake up to the scent of jasmine blossoms. For me, in Missouri, it was the woody scent of trees in the evening, and all the tree frogs singing. Childhood is magical.
Hirch_duckfinder - I thought the Attar was beautiful, too. I thought the sweetness was due to the sandalwood, but maybe I'm wrong. There definitely is spice in there, to my nose, not sweet spice, though.
Thanks so much for posting your Royal Aoud notes here. The Women's side doesn't hear much about that one, and I know it is held in high regard.
kumquat - I appreciate your fine reviews; they were excellent and insightful. (And I'm not saying that because you live here and will come over and clout me if I don't.) Thank you for filling in a blank on Oriental Extreme. As for the ones we both smelled, I love it when our impressions are slightly different because we can re-smell and talk about it again.
This thread is great. And it is always fascinating to see how different chemistry or perception can be. Thanks again, pbird
I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker
(Clatters in - gasping for breath, crazed expression, clothes awry - always late for the party! :bounce Didn't realize this was a thread...(did you read the subject, dummy??? Montale?? Reviews????)
When I was new here (like, five months ago!!!) I had asked for jasmine recommendations and, thanks to Vijay, have sampled Jasmin Full - as others have said, a glorious room full of the blossoms - heady and intoxicating. The jasmine-iest jasmine! Am still trying to decide between this and Ayala's Moonbreath.
Someone (Paisley??) sent me a sample of Vanille Absolue which turned me from a person indifferent at best to vanilla - into a convert. But this is the smellyou get when you scrape the beans - not extract, or Nilla Wafers. Gaw-juss!!
Suggestion: Why don't we post these reviews on the Montale Site in the BN Directory - then newies would get the skinny without having to track down a thread?
"The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze
Intense Tiare is just scrumptious. I love it. I'm a huge fan of coconut but I can barely smell it in this one, which is probably a good thing. the Tiare flowers are heavenly...just pure tropical heaven. I'm definitely thinking about getting a bottle of this one. It's really good. Vijay, I noticed that your store is out of this one...so I'll PM you to find out availability.