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  1. #31

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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry
    Chypre sidenote: In trying to discourage my daughter's cat from wanting to pee in inappropriate places, I resorted to spraying Cabochard in a corner today. This has worked with him and Miss Balmain in the past. Cats don't like chypres? Fortunately, he doesn't seem to feel the need to "trump" my sprays with his, so I just have to keep perfuming the corners.
    I'll try that! I don't have too many chypres....I could try Spring Rain, it gives me a chpyre feel.

  2. #32
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry
    [...]
    Chypre sidenote: In trying to discourage my daughter's cat from wanting to pee in inappropriate places, I resorted to spraying Cabochard in a corner today. This has worked with him and Miss Balmain in the past. Cats don't like chypres? Fortunately, he doesn't seem to feel the need to "trump" my sprays with his, so I just have to keep perfuming the corners.
    The magic trick to the chypres may actually be the animalic notes (castoreum, civet) in the base of the blend... To your cat it probably smells like a bigger and badder tom cat is in town. Cats also prefer a 'clean' area to go toilet in so the animalic elements along with the moss probably smells like the area has already been 'used' and therefore is no longer attractive / suitable.
    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

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  3. #33

    Smile Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

    Quote Originally Posted by chaelaran1008
    Montana Parfum d'Elle for evening scent to twin with Zibeline. This has been in my wardrobe for almost a year but has rarely been worn. Notes are:
    Top: melon, lemon, mandarin, lime.
    Middle: ginger, rosewood, hyacinth, tuberose.
    Base: Oakmoss, tonka, vanilla, tobacco.
    Very difficult to describe Parfum d'Elle because it is not like anything else in my wardrobe. Development on my skin goes from citrus - floral then ginger kicks in. Drydown is quite complex as melon, lemon, hyacinth and tuberose (subdued here) are warmed by ginger above a mossy vanilla base. It smells quite 'continental' to me and I think a hot climate would perhaps bring out the best in Parfum d'Elle. There is something about this scent which reminds me of showergels and soaps I have bought and used when on holiday in Spain. I don't love Parfum d'Elle but I might take it on holiday with me!

    This really is a great fragrance and I enjoyed wearing it today! With a montana scent you can be sure that you won't be scent twins with half the women in the room...but it's nice having a scent twin today that appreciates it. I'm quite surprised that it has survived.
    Currently wearing: Bluebell by Penhaligon's

  4. #34

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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

    As promised, putting in for my SoTE: Givency's Ysatis..

    This is one of those "surprise" gut-instinct scents for me... Sprayed it on in a department store a few years ago, wandered around for 20 minutes and came back and bought a bottle. Later discovered that it contains BOTH of my "dreaded" notes: jasmine and tuberose, though not in high enough quantities (or perhaps with enough other notes I adore) to make this one of my favorite fragrances ever. For me, it is more sweet spicy than woody, and deeply, deeply satisfying:

    Top note : Mandarin, Galbanum, Rosewood, Coconut

    Middle note : Tuberose, Jasmine, Narcissus, Carnation

    Base note : Patchouli, Sandal, Castoreum, Civet

    In my community, there is a ceremony that separates the sabbath from the rest of the week, and it incorporates all of the senses: the sound of song, the sight of a candle flame dancing in the evening shadows; the feel of the flame's warmth; the taste of sweet wine or juice; and the smell of sweet spices to make the whole experience more pleasant... Tonight, I offered my Ysatis-drenched wrist to several friends who weren't close enough to the "standard spices" (usually cinnamon and cloves, sometimes with vanilla bean) for a good sniff... And they all said it was perfect.
    It’s thought that people who hope too much will just waste their life away and never get down to doing any real work. They’re confusing Hope with Wish, its lazy cousin... When Wish whispers, “Something is just around the corner,” what comes or not is never what was wished for. When Hope whispers “Something is just around the corner,” something always is. -- Charlie Elberson

    My sale thread has some of my underappreciated fragrances looking for a good, new home...
    Currently wearing: Infusion d'Iris by Prada

  5. #35
    moondeva's Avatar
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7
    Beautiful.
    That is a perfect description of old-school Chypres.
    Then you understand the point I was making about Mitsouko. Thank you.
    I could not have explained it better. This is how the "old" chypes were different from the current ones.

    Creamy, smooth base--yes, yes, a thousand times yes.
    Soft, with notes melded together, a golden melange, gentle and sun-warmed. Righto!
    The current emphasis seems to be on "stand-out" notes--sour, salty, woody, bitter--that are juxtaposed with the sweetness rather than blended into it.
    For example, Narciso Rodrigues for Her EDP has a vetiver peach.
    Une Folie de Rose has a patchouli rose.
    Agent Provocateur has a vetiver rose.

    The old ones were calmer somehow.
    The fruits were at least golden, and at most creamy.
    And the bases ended up sweet, I tell you.
    I think this genre would have more fans if they went back to the roots and started emphasizing that characteristic again.
    [...]
    I have to admit that after today's epiphany with Chypre de Coty, I now view chypre formulations in three major tiers:

    Classic (true) Chypres
    These are the golden, sun-drenched nostalgic beauties of yesteryear including the original formulations of many great Chypres and many long departed beauties. These must include oakmoss, labdanum (amber), patchouli and citrus to be labelled as such.
    Typical Classic (true) Chypres include: Chypre de Coty, The Body Shop Chypre, Guerlain Mitsouko (vintage), Jean Patou Colony, Rochas Femme (vintage), Gres Cabochard (vintage), Pierre Cardin Choc EDP

    Traditional Chypres
    These are the distinctive drier, mossier chypres that many of us have considered true chypres as they have been the only ones widely available in our lifetimes. These include the quiet reformulations of many great Chypres. Traditional Chypres hark back to the 1940s and the last heyday of chypres throughout the 80s and early 1990s. To be labelled as Traditional Chypres these must include (oak)moss and patchouli but citrus and labdanum (amber) were optional.
    Typical Traditional Chypres include: Chanel Cristalle, Dior Diorella, Guerlain Mitsouko EDT, Rochas Femme, Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum, Gres Cabochard, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Fendi Donna, Parlux Animale For Her, Ungaro Diva


    New Chypres
    These are the rather controversial future of the label chypre. These may be classified as Chypres but they have very little in common with the Classic or Traditional Chypre. New Chypres are a modern development to convey gravitas and legitimacy to a range of scents that have nothing much incommon with the heart of this scent family except by name. The New Chypre genre of scents is still very much in its fledgling stages so there is much confusion as to what actually constitutes a New Chypre. To be labelled as New Chypre these must include patchouli but citrus and labdanum (amber) are optional, (oak / tree ) moss is not allowed. The green, earthy 'tang' of the moss is now sometimes provided by vetiver or iris.
    Typical New Chypres include: Dior Miss Dior Cherie (Fruity Floral), Narciso Rodriguez Narciso Rodriguez For Her (Woody / Floral Musk), Chanel 31 Rue Cambon (Aldehydic Floral), Chanel Coco Mademoiselle (Rich Floral), Guerlain Bois d'Armenie (Spicy Wood), Agent Provocateur By Agent Provocateur (Green Spicy Floral)

    This confirms for me that the only way I am going to continue to enjoy chypre perfumes as I understand them is to buy vintage / old stock, buy from independent perfumers (AL,DSH, AM, etc) or create my own. So be it, because there is no way that the non-moss blends that are being released under the banner of New Chypre are an acceptable substitute for those true Chypre lovers, like myself, who have known and loved the Classic & Traditional Chypres that have gone before...
    Last edited by moondeva; 4th March 2007 at 06:08 PM.
    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

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  6. #36

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

    Today I wore Montale's Chypre Vanille. It was heavenly when I first applied it, but the drydown smelled a little weird on my skin after about 30 minutes. the sillage/longevity was also not very good, so I must not have applied enough. After a few hours I decided to go with Musc Ravageur for a parfum touch-up. Tomorrow will be more Montale!



  7. #37
    moondeva's Avatar
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

    I indulged myself and wore two other Chypres today.

    Ava Luxe Moss EDP
    Quote Originally Posted by www.ava-luxe.com
    A delightful chypre fragrance with fresh bergamot and citrus top notes that give way to soft mosses and amber notes. The drydown is slightly powdery ambergris.
    Notes: bergamot, lime, fern, lavender, amber, Spanish moss, oakmoss, labdanum, musk, ambergris.
    This is a wonderful little delight and a wonderful example of a better modern take on the Classic (true) Chypre theme. Much brighter and rawer than the mellow ancestor I wore earlier, this is still a wonderfully evocative scent of the past. The rawness may be due to the fact that the oakmoss has not had a chance to mellow over time and have that priceless synergy occur that gives many great chypres their unmistakable luxe patina. Or may be the oakmoss used is synthetic. I think actually that it might be the ommission of civet (as found in the original Chypre de Coty) that causes it to sit prettily upon the skin rather than meld with it. The ambergris gives it a wonderful powdery vintage feel but ultimately there is something strangely soulless about this scent for me...
    I fear it may be that my senses were prejudiced by the sublime experience I had earlier with Chypre de Coty. Coupled with the fact that it's bright optimism and effervescent puts me in mind of summer days (I believe that may be the perfect time to wear it), means that I shall reserve judgement until I have worn it a few more times. Especially without the huge example of Chypre de Coty to follow.

    Parlux Animale For Women
    Top note: Bergamot oil, Coriander, Green Note, Hyacinth, Rosewood
    Heart notes: Carnation, Honey, Jasmin, Lily of the Valley, Orris, Rose, Ylang-Ylang
    Base notes: Castoreum, Cistus oil, Civet, Musk, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Vetiver


    This is a great chypre blend create in the image of a typical late 80's chypre floral-animalic blend. Animale For Women is a Traditional Chypre which I found to be very reminiscent of Jacomo Parfum Rare, Balenciaga Rumba and Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum. Luckily it is much sheerer and less potent then most of these, making it much 'easier' to wear. A great one to have in the collection. I would / will definitely wear again but sadly its very wearability is its downfall. When craving a green, mossy, floral-animalic chypre there are many more distinctive, unique more memorable scents that I would find myself reaching for...
    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

    Tabu + Orange Blossom * Hermes Rouge + Bellodgia* Voleur du Roses+ Rose Ispahan * Rasa Extreme + Paris * Wood Coffee + Cafe Noir *

  8. #38
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

    Want the whole truth? If there were nothing else but chypres, I would be just fine! There are so many of them to choose from, and I feel blessed that their coolness likes my warm skin. Sometimes I do not feel like I am worth wearing them, because they are much much better than, say, my shoes, or my hairdo, or my jewelry. In other words, I understand that often times I am not put together enough to pull them off, but they intrigue me to no end by their assertiveness and self-sufficience. They whisper and never yell (well, sometimes they do, but on the positive note, it is brief), they are honest and never beat around the bush, they are unpredictable and capricious, they can be distant and demanding in an opulent sort of way... They smell of earth and woods, and flowers/fruit is just a cherry on the topping.

    Have been chypre-ing for the whole week, and for our SnS was debating between the two of my all-time favorites: Coriandre and Paloma. I refuse to be without either one, but this time Paloma Picasso won! In the course of about 13 years I tried it in EdT, EdP and perfume. Right now I have it in perfume (Taolady sent it to me!) and EdT, and I started the day with perfume and added some EdT right before going to work, so Shy and Shades could probably smell me where they live! It starts sharp with smokey and dark bergamot, penetrating hyacinth and a bit of coriandre. Its sharpness feels almost like broken glass/mirror pieces, with their "Look! Do not touch us!" straightforwardness. After about 30 minutes this coolness morphs into huge thorns crowning the most smoldering red rose one can ever imagine, opening up its petals one by one, and showing its astoundingly sensual heart, while ylang-ylang and dryest woods form just a nice vulnerable but solid frame. There is also animalic theme going on, and this combo of civet, castoreum, moss, honey (especially in perfume!) and tobacco is the most puzzling! On a rare occasion I can barely stand it, and have to simply put up with them because I know and like the fact that the ROSE is there and should be emerging any time now, but most times it is pure delight and today was not an exception. The longevity is superb -- days, not hours -- and the price is rather cheap, especially for the EdT at Marshall's (was it 24.99 for 50ml or so?), which is not a very good sign by itself: it is going away from the department stores. Paloma is not for everybody, but if there is love -- it is an on-going affair, including all senses and brain.

    Random thought of the day: if I am ever going to buy a hat, which color should it be, red or black? I need a pair of gloves, too!

  9. #39

    Default Very impressive Ladies!

    First, an apology is in order for never having visited the Women's forum, but I have to admit, my visit is somewhat happenstance. In my desire for better understanding, I did a search for several fragrance categories, while not exactly what I was looking for, much of what I am looking for is contained within this thread. I'll be sure to visit more often as the "Which frag makes chicks horny" and "What are you favorite top 50" threads get a bit tiring.

    Back on topic...Coincidentally, I actually did wear a Chypre today...I think. Kiton Men, oak moss throughout, but blended nicely with black pepper and some middle floral notes. In the same vain as GIT, but quite a bit less harsh or sharp making Kiton Men...wearable.

  10. #40
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

    I followed moondeva's suggestion and wore Maxim's Pour Homme last night.

    Top notes - bergamot, lavender
    Middle notes - cedar, sandalwood, floral notes (jasmin?)
    Base notes - patchouli, moss, musk

    Clary sage is not listed in the pyramid, but I get it strongly in the first few hours. It's not generally a favourite note but its vegetal savouriness works well here.

    Overall, the opening is very heady and a bit overpowering. The sharpness of the headnotes soon overlaps with the spicy cedary notes, these are rounded out by the santal and florals. In the basenotes the dominant note is the accord of patchouli and moss. It is complex and has an interesting 'narrative arc'. The drydown is wonderful and reminds me of Chanel Pour Monsieur - in fact Maxim's could be it's louche, Gitane-smoking, jazz-club-frequenting Parisian cousin.
    .
    .
    "The grand essentials of happiness are: something to do, something to love, and something to hope for", Allan Chalmers.

  11. #41

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

    Hi CuyahogaJoe and michaeld39! Thanks for stopping by.
    We do this on the first Saturday of every month. It lets us talk about our favorite fragrances in each olfactive group and also about the entire genre. We are glad that you included some men's fragrances in the discussion.
    ......

    You know, Chypres are a fascinating subject, and a group of perfumes that I cannot live without.
    Amid the reformulations and changing definitions of the genre, I am happy that so many knowledgeable people are here making suggestions about which way to go. Thanks, Moondeva, for your insight. This Sniff and Speak was especially interesting to me.

    Twolf, I had to laugh in agreement with your statement about your attire being undeserving of your fragrance. That is "me" every day. I smell expensive. But I look like (um...) black jeans and a t-shirt.
    I sure hope no one ever messes with my Paloma Picasso. If they ever reformulate that one, I will scream. The honey, the tobacco, the rose and hyacinth. The castoreum.
    It screams for awhile. My skin conquors it. And then it purrs for hours.

  12. #42
    Lean in closer, dear
    Quarry's Avatar
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

    Thanks to everyone for their knowledge, creativity and humor. And of course, a party isn't a party until Moondeva shows up.

    BTW, Twolf, I think you should get a black hat so you can pin on a variety of decorations to suit the occasion.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  13. #43

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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

    Better late than never, eh?

    Finally got down to wearing Mitsouko and it's great. I don't know whether my Mitsouko EdP is old stock or not, I got it in a swap a couple of years ago. Whatever version it is, it smells gorgeous: warm, sunny peach (more like dried peach than fresh fruit) lurking from the murky depths of vetiver...
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
    Currently wearing: Vohina by Huitième Art

  14. #44

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 3 >>>>CHYPRES

    As Tigrushka, better late than never. I couldn't miss the chypre sniff 'n speak.

    During the day on Saturday, I wore a new chypre favorite - Eau Suave by Parfum D'Empire (2005), inspired by Empress Josephine of France. I generally never set out looking for chypres, but they always find me, which was the case with Eau Suave. After trying a free sample of this, I actually thought it was masculine, and was surprised to see it was feminine, and a chypre. This is a new-type chypre, though I'm not sure what the earthy bottom notes are coming from. Though I haven't seen leather listed as an ingredient, this becomes a dry rose leather on me, and is cerebral and sensual. Since leather is a sub-category of the chypre genre, it's not surprising I would smell leather in this. I noticed some reviews commented or objected to its fruity quality, but I didn't pick that up on my skin.
    The ingredient list:
    Top note: Coriander; Saffron; Fruity, Spicy and Tea Roses
    Middle note: Honeyed Apricot; Peach; Raspberry; Pepper
    Base note: Vanilla; White MusK; Wood notes (Cypress)

    In the evening, I wore my favorite true chypre (by moondeva's category), Profumo by Acqua Di Parma, created in 1939. This is in the tradition of the warmer, fuller, rounder early chypres having a prominent floral heart, and mildly sweet, mossy floral drydown. I think this one is a class act, and each time I wear it Profumo smells different, which is probably because of it's library of notes. It's description states it contains over 300 ingredients.

    The most I could find in the way of an ingredient list was:
    Top - bergamot, bitter orange, petitgrain, lavender, sage
    Heart - honeysuckle, neroli, jasmine, ylang-ylang, iris, rose, cinnamon, clove, cardamom
    Base - amber, sandalwood, oakmoss, frankincense, cedar.

    Profumo carries the stamp of the early chypres, and possesses a certain intelligence and largeness of character. It is full, rich, deep, refined yet large. Its drydown doesn't border on woody as many do today. It is, well, a chypre drydown. It also carries another stamp of its time - aldehydes - and brings to mind other great aldehydics of that era. Sometimes I love that aldehydic sillage, and sometimes can't wear it at all because it makes me sneeze too much. When I can wear it well, Profumo is magnificent. When I can't deal with the aldehydes it becomes too much. Fortunately, Saturday evening it was a pleasure to wear and fitting next to the slight smokiness of a wood fire.
    Last edited by flathorn; 7th March 2007 at 05:52 PM.

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