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  1. #1

    Default Pink Chypres / New Chypres

    I'd like to start a list of the new Pink Chypre genre, or maybe we should call it the New Chypres, because I'm not sure what the term "pink" implies.
    Anyway, we might as well get used to the oakmoss restrictions and make friends with these. May I begin by submitting several?

    Agent Provocateur - saffron, magnolia, jasmine, gardenia, vetiver, cedar, musk, amber.
    The first time I smelled this, I didn't know what to think except that the flowers smelled dried out. I had never smelled vetiver before. This was my first experience with a Pink Chypre. Now I understand and appreciate it. It is groundbreaking.

    Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely - nectarine, bergamot, rosemary, lavendar, patchouli, narcussus, orchid, amber, cedar, musk.
    This one is pleasant and easily acceptable. It has broad popular appeal.

    Ralph Lauren Pure Turquoise - cassis, violet, lily, cactus flower, night cereus, orange flower, desert lily, patchouli, silver birch wood, polished amber, bourbon, vanilla, rum.
    Oh, boy, the warning flags always come up when I read "fanciful" notes like these. And sure enough, it doesn't live up to its hype.

    Narciso Rodriguez EDP - rose, peach, amber, patchouli, sandalwood, musk.
    I love this one. So does my daughter. Most people adore the EDT, which is minus the peach note, but we love that weird little peach aroma--it is outstanding, which is to say, it is bold and innovative. And addictive.

    Sisley Soir de Lune - citrus, coriander, pimento, nutmeg, rose, mimosa, peach, moss, patchouli, poney, musk, sandalwood
    I just tried this and was impressed. The pimento note is sharp and somewhat salty, but it is paired with rose, creating that dried rose aroma that is characteristic of the New Chypres. Then along comes a sweet powder with hints of honey and peach, my favorite part. It returns to its tangy charactieristics with a moss and citrus combination. The development is circular, causing the wearer to pick up the juxtaposing notes over and over. This fragrance doesn't beg to be loved. Rather, it calls the wearer to return.

    Lorenzo Villoresi Sandalo - rosewood, lavender, petitgrain, orange, lemon, labdanum, Bulgarian rose, neroli, sandalwood, vetiver, amber, opoponax, oakmoss.
    Okay, so it still has oakmoss and labdanum, but it doesn't have bergamot or patchouli. That gives it exactly half of the old Chypre formula. And it is a newer fragrance, not one of the old Chypres that have to be reformulated. This is a very complex fragrance with amazing devellopment, going from herbal to citrus to rose and sandalwood to amber. Gorgeous.

    Any others?

  2. #2
    moondeva's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pink Chypres / New Chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    Anyway, we might as well get used to the oakmoss restrictions and make friends with these.
    No way... no can do. The industry can obliterate a scent family in a blaze of idiotic regulations and fancy footed marketing but these scents are not and never will be acceptable 'chypres' to me.

    All but the last two of your list all fall within the category of 'woody' scents not chypre which implies moss / mossy and these are not. The last two, especially the the Lorenzo Villoresi Sandalo sound like they may be more appropriate due to the inclusion of moss. I would consider the LV Sandalo a modern interpretation of the Traditional Chypre with the distinct basic (oak)moss +amber+citrus / fruit accord that forms the structure of other great traditional chypres such as Rochas Femme, Jean Patou Sublime and Chanel Cristalle.

    Not all progress is for the better and I don't really care how 'backward' I may be for not being 'hip' and 'moving with the times' accepting these rank upstarts as a particular 'type' of perfume just because the money men put a label on it and tell me it is so.

    These perfumes are great, I am sure, and I may one day enjoy them for their own merits. But I will never consider them chypres - whether classic, traditional, new, pink or otherwise.

    No (oak)moss + amber + citrus / fruit accord = NO Chypre!

    JMPO
    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

    Tabu + Orange Blossom * Hermes Rouge + Bellodgia* Voleur du Roses+ Rose Ispahan * Rasa Extreme + Paris * Wood Coffee + Cafe Noir *

  3. #3

    Angry Re: Pink Chypres / New Chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by moondeva View Post
    No way... no can do. The industry can obliterate a scent family in a blaze of idiotic regulations and fancy footed marketing but these scents are not and never will be acceptable 'chypres' to me.

    [FONT=Book Antiqua][SIZE=4][I]All but the last two of your list all fall within the category of 'woody' scents not chypre which implies moss / mossy and these are not.

    JMPO
    I have to agree with Moondeva. These scents just don't work for me. They are not at all like traditional chypres. In fact, I find them mediocre at best.
    And he whose soul is flat -- the sky
    Will cave in on him by and by.

    —from "Renascence" by Edna St. Vincent Millay

  4. #4

    Default Re: Pink Chypres / New Chypres

    I don't think of any of these as real chypres...I'm hoping someone will buck the trend and use oakmoss...it's not banned in the US or Canada is it?

  5. #5

    Default Re: Pink Chypres / New Chypres

    I really do like a couple of these but I NEVER think of them as Chypre's.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Pink Chypres / New Chypres

    Oooohh, Moondeva,
    Kumquat let me try Chypre de Coty.
    I was transported to a higher plane.

  7. #7
    moondeva's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pink Chypres / New Chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    Oooohh, Moondeva,
    Kumquat let me try Chypre de Coty.
    I was transported to a higher plane.
    Transcendent is a good way to describe this amazing beauty - the mother of the greatest fragrance family of them all!!

    Having experienced the original, alongside other beauties such as vintage Mitsouko, Cabochard, Femme and the brasher modernity of Ma Griffe, Paloma Picasso, and Miss Balmain. I hope you can understand why I refuse to play along with the current marketing farce...?

    Luca Turin's points concerning the whole oakmoss legislation farce make me even madder about the industries choices / actions:

    Luca Turin in Folio of April 2 2007 http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/21b625ad-...672b2bac9.aspx

    Chypre de Coty is truly divine and I am saddened that we are unlikely to see the likes of it again due to current legislation and the widespread, short sighted decisions of the money men in perfumery. I am, however, very grateful for the opportunity to experience such a beauty first hand in my lifetime.

    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

    Tabu + Orange Blossom * Hermes Rouge + Bellodgia* Voleur du Roses+ Rose Ispahan * Rasa Extreme + Paris * Wood Coffee + Cafe Noir *

  8. #8

    Default Re: Pink Chypres / New Chypres

    Yes, isn't it amazing?
    The entire, true character of the Classic Chypre is contained in that pretty little bottle. So warm, golden, and sublime. Like sunshine.
    Soft and round. Not harsh in any way.

    The new ones are a different olfactory group altogether.
    I do appreciate their fascinating, often opposite mix of notes, though.
    But they do NOT replace the classic Chypre formula.
    They are a class by themselves.

    What should they call them? If not New Chypre, than what?
    I am terrible at coming up with names.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Pink Chypres / New Chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    I'd like to start a list of the new Pink Chypre genre, or maybe we should call it the New Chypres, because I'm not sure what the term "pink" implies.
    Anyway, we might as well get used to the oakmoss restrictions and make friends with these. May I begin by submitting several?

    Agent Provocateur - saffron, magnolia, jasmine, gardenia, vetiver, cedar, musk, amber.
    The first time I smelled this, I didn't know what to think except that the flowers smelled dried out. I had never smelled vetiver before. This was my first experience with a Pink Chypre. Now I understand and appreciate it. It is groundbreaking.

    Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely - nectarine, bergamot, rosemary, lavendar, patchouli, narcussus, orchid, amber, cedar, musk.
    This one is pleasant and easily acceptable. It has broad popular appeal.

    Ralph Lauren Pure Turquoise - cassis, violet, lily, cactus flower, night cereus, orange flower, desert lily, patchouli, silver birch wood, polished amber, bourbon, vanilla, rum.
    Oh, boy, the warning flags always come up when I read "fanciful" notes like these. And sure enough, it doesn't live up to its hype.

    Narciso Rodriguez EDP - rose, peach, amber, patchouli, sandalwood, musk.
    I love this one. So does my daughter. Most people adore the EDT, which is minus the peach note, but we love that weird little peach aroma--it is outstanding, which is to say, it is bold and innovative. And addictive.

    Sisley Soir de Lune - citrus, coriander, pimento, nutmeg, rose, mimosa, peach, moss, patchouli, poney, musk, sandalwood
    I just tried this and was impressed. The pimento note is sharp and somewhat salty, but it is paired with rose, creating that dried rose aroma that is characteristic of the New Chypres. Then along comes a sweet powder with hints of honey and peach, my favorite part. It returns to its tangy charactieristics with a moss and citrus combination. The development is circular, causing the wearer to pick up the juxtaposing notes over and over. This fragrance doesn't beg to be loved. Rather, it calls the wearer to return.

    Lorenzo Villoresi Sandalo - rosewood, lavender, petitgrain, orange, lemon, labdanum, Bulgarian rose, neroli, sandalwood, vetiver, amber, opoponax, oakmoss.
    Okay, so it still has oakmoss and labdanum, but it doesn't have bergamot or patchouli. That gives it exactly half of the old Chypre formula. And it is a newer fragrance, not one of the old Chypres that have to be reformulated. This is a very complex fragrance with amazing devellopment, going from herbal to citrus to rose and sandalwood to amber. Gorgeous.

    Any others?

    Oh another one for your list Purplebird:

    Gucci Rush: Gardenia, Freesia, Madras Jasmine, Damascene rose, Coriander, Vanilla, Patchouli, Vetiver

    I'm wearing it today for the first time and I've still yet to make up my mind about it. Although, that whole thread about sillage and being kicked off the bus and so on, has me terrified that I've applied too much!!!! But I'm almost certain that this would qualify as one of your Pink Chypres.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Pink Chypres / New Chypres

    I wish I could find that article, but it was an honest to goodness article, not a farce. It's about the new green chypres.
    I think they may have done better with "us" to call them something else than a chypre because some may smell very nice, but you get the idea in your head that you are going to smell a chypre and not so.
    It would be interesting to know though why they are called chypres because some don't smell any different to me than a musky floral, which is ok, but what's that got to do with a chypre? Anyway, I don't know of any that have not already been mentioned.

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