I'd be thankful if anyone could comment on this question. In your opinion: How does Opium pour Homme EdP hold on compared to orientals by Serge Lutens (if there are any comparable fragrances in that line)? Is it (Opium) less refined, complex or "state of the art" than e.g. Ambre Sultan? Thanks in anticipation.
Last edited by deeablow; 4th April 2007 at 07:28 PM.
Opium pour homme EDP is a fine frag. However it alone can't compare to the many rich finely crafted oriental of the Serge Lutens line. For some one who's into orientals, Serge Lutens is the no. 1 house.
With that said, theres nothing like Opium pour homme in the line. The anise, blackcurrant and spicy pepper give it a different less sweet feel. I personally prefer Opium pour homme EDP over many of the Lutens orientals, but thats probably because I cant stand overly sweet fragrances.
If you're asking for an opinion, I think it holds up just fine against any of Lutens range. It's no secret I don't buy the niche designer hierarchy as unquestioningly as some do.
I tend to come to my opinions on the basis of fragrance to fragrance comparisons, and having tried all the Lutens range and owning at last count 9 of them as well as every incarnation of Opium produced by YSL in both the men's and the women's range, it's my opinion that Opium Pour Homme EDP holds up just fine next to any Lutens.
In fact, so do the following:
Opium Pour Homme Eau d’Orient
Opium EDP (nouvelle edition)
The following, in my opinion, trump anything in the Lutens range:
Opium Secret de Parfum EDP
The one stand out fragrance in the Lutens range for me, at least, is Douce Amère EDP.
I haven't tried as many variations in either line, but agree wholeheartedly with scentemental's first paragraph.
I seemed to have caused some confusion by using the correct nomenclature for describing fragrances. There are some excited folks out there who now think there's a new "nouvelle" version of the men's Opium EDP.:bounce:
Sorry, but there isn't.
Let me explain:
Opium EDP (nouvelle edition)
in my above post all refer to the various formulations of the women's Opium. The correct way to refer to men's Opium is to refer to it by its actual name, Opium Pour Homme. Adhering to this simple distinction avoids confusion.
I've heard the contention that this is the men's board ,and it should naturally be assumed that when one refers Opium Pour Homme, Opium will suffice.
There are two problems with that:
1) I don't buy the contention that the men's board is only for the discussion of men's fragrances. It's about the discussion of fragrances. Anybody, with a deep and abiding interest in fragrances will be interested in women's fragrances even if that interest is academic rather than sartorial.
2) If we held to that contention, how would I refer to the women's version of something if I wanted to. I correctly referred to the women's version of Opium and it caused confusion, not to mention unwarranted excitement. Again, the men's version is not Opium, it's Opium Pour Homme. It was developed eighteen years after the women's version (1977 as opposed to 1995). I think the original women's Opium deserve the distinction of being called by its actual name, Opium.
I have always found that preciseness at least has the virtue of clarity-- if it's practiced by one and sundry that is.
To get back to the original question that began this post, I perhaps didn't sufficiently make it clear that are a many quality Lutens orientals. I just wanted to make is crystal clear that Lutens isn't the first and last word on orientals. I don't understand why Douce Amère EDP doesn't get more coverage on both the men's and the women's boards. Are they any other fan's of this bold, original fragrance out there except me?
"I don't understand why Douce Amère EDP doesn't get more coverage on both the men's and the women's boards. Are they any other fan's of this bold, original fragrance out there except me?"
I'm afraid I cannot join in a conversation here, but you have raised my attention on Douce Amère even more. So far I just own the Fond-de-Parfum-version, and I don't know how to estimate its relation to the Eau de Parfum. I suppose Douce Amère is very well-balanced, elegant, seductive, "sexy" (to use this modernistic word).
Last edited by pluran; 13th April 2007 at 03:59 AM.
By the way, if any of my fellow Opium-loving basenoters needs a blue case for the edp refill please post me a message and I'll gladly send it your way. I don't know how I came to have these extras.
graffham, if you get no bites on that one, you should put a notice on the for sale/swap forums, I'm sure there are many people out there who'd love one, and even pay for it!
And in my more limited experience, Opium Homme EDP is as good or better than many Lutens fragrances. I guess I'd say it's more "messy" or "loud" than the Lutens I've tried, but it's my staple for winter, and I always get compliments.
My only complaint about it is that I don't like what it turns into so much after a few hours, and compared to Lutens that you can wear all day every day, and probably drink, I find it will irritate your throat slightly after a while.
Last edited by DreamerII; 13th April 2007 at 08:32 PM.
"PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
Real beauty: 1) F. Malle 1-19 2) Chanel Bel Respiro 3) TF Noir de Noir 4) Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose
Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel 3) Dominique Ropion
Hey, I just sampled Ambre Sultan for the first time last night. Does anyone else notice the strong relation to Opium EDP (pour homme)? The opening of Ambre Sultan is especially reminiscant of Opium, though as it dries they diverge - Ambre into something lighter and powederier, and Opium into something heavier and thicker. I find Ambre more "polite" than Opium, though I think I prefer Opium. With both I'm a great fan of the opening, vs the the final act. Ambre is someone between Opium and Arabie.
Hey that makes me think - non linear fragrances are sometimes like a meal in all mixed up - desert and drink come first, then the sauce, then the meat, then the rice/bread/pasta...
Last edited by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR; 21st April 2007 at 10:44 PM.
Opium Pour Homme stands on its own amongst the YSL offerings. Sure, it has its variations, EdP, EdT, Eau de Orient, etc., but each YSL fragrance is in no way connected to the other, except by brand name. Where as with Lutens fragrances, you get an evolvution from one to the next, it's hard to mistake a Lutens for anything else but a Lutens. Kind of like the golden age of the Guerlains. And it has been said that Serge Lutens is the house of Orientals. The interesting thing is both Lutens and St. Laurent live most of the time in Marrakech - I wonder if they are friends?
Also, the star aniseed and blackcurrant top notes of OpH would never be found in a SL.Too classic. Ambre Sultan throws in oregano to screw around with all the sweetness floating around.
Have a rambled enough yet?
That's an interesting question. I think some designer stuff stacks up quite well against the exclusive niche houses. I like that, because then my wallet isn't always as severely punished.
I've had copious quantities of Opium EDT and Ambre Sultan in my nose. I definitely liked Opium, and it had great staying power on me. I did trade it because the wife couldn't tolerate it, though she did give it a couple of wearings before finally holding up the cross, so to speak. I miss it! This is the kind of exotic-bordering-on-slutty frag that I love!
I would say, though, that although Opium is excellent and I'm a YSL guy, SL items tend to be somewhat richer and more subtle. I'd say that Opium is a blaster, whether you love it or not.
I do my best not to incommode those who like a fragrance, but I'm compelled to say something.
Opium and Opium Pour Homme are polar opposites in quality. Opium, in all its concentrations, is one of the finest fragrances ever created. It's a different sort of oriental (softer, less sweet) than some of the Lutens orientals, so comparing them might not seem natural. Either way, it's on par with several of the Lutens fragrances, and is clearly better than a few of them. Opium Pour Homme (both concentrations) on the other hand, is one of the most disappointing fragrances I've ever worn. It starts out with a hint of the same minty bubblegum note that works so well in Opium, though this note isn't nearly as good in Opium Pour Homme. In Opium Pour Homme, there is an intriguing, fairly dynamic interplay between notes for forty five minutes to an hour, but the development isn't nearly what one expects based upon the opening. The fragrance quickly turns into a relatively generic (for YSL especially) vanilla bomb with average construction at best. What I'm left with after an hour or so is an abundance of surprisingly unexceptional vanilla/Tolu balsam with hints of mild spice and cedar, and virtually no patchouli. It's one of the most uninspired, tedious drydowns I've experienced, and I've yet to wear it without washing it off. It's the only YSL fragrance that I truly dislike. I find it substandard and adolescent, and I'm amazed that it was ever released.
Last edited by pluran; 22nd April 2007 at 09:13 AM.
Hey Pluran, do you think the original opium goes well on a man?
I agree with you about the men's EDT, which I think starts of wonderfully, and degenerates quickly into garbage, but I very much love the EDP, even if I don't like the later stages of it as much as the opening. I don't find it very vanilla, I find it dark and mucky, too much cedar. However, it always gets compliments, and I suspect the higher and middle notes linger around for a lot longer than I can smell them.
And furthermore, I'm not a big fan of many of the later stages of many of the lutens' either. While Fumerie Turque is heaven from start to finish, many of the others, such as Ambre Sultan which is a relative of Opium in my opinion, end off extremely powdery and dry.