Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1

    Default The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    I have come across what is until now by far the best researched and detailed account of the complex history of the original Kölnisch Wasser, from the catalogue accompanying an exhibit in the Cologne Municipal Museum on Eau de Cologne. More on that when I have time, but I did want to share one of the oldest EdC recipes reproduced there. This one is by Johann Anton Farina, a relative and competitor of Johann Maria of Farina Gegenüber, and dates from 1750, but he claimed it was the original that came down upon him from Giovanni Paolo Feminis, the first Italian in cologne to produce "Aqua Mirabilis":

    If the measurements given conform to Roman weights and measures then 1 boccali is 1.42 liters, one onzè is 28.26 metric grams.

    "Pour into a vessel 10 Boccali acqua d'ongeria [Hungarian Water, this would have been predominantly a rosemary water] and add:
    6 onzè Essence of "Citron distillato" [distilled lemon]
    2.5 onzè Dito of Bergamot
    1.5 onzè Dito of Neroly
    1/2 onzè Dito of Cedrat
    1/4 onzè Dito of Limette [Lime]
    1/4 onzè Dito of petit grain

    This mixture made in a special vessel must be complemented for three days, once or twice daily, with 10 boccali acqua d'ongeria. All this is mixed well and rests for 8 days until it has become clear and it is done."

    The Farina Gegenüber papers indicate that besides having the "magic recipe" the quality of the oils was essential (that's why they are called essential oils ). JM Farina scrupulously tested deliveries and provided detailed instructions to suppliers on tending, harvesting and distilling.

    So, good luck making your own lifetime supply of genuine EdC

    Source: Bernhard Kuhlmann, "'Jedenfalls schmeckt Eau de Cologne besser als Petroleum'," Oh! De Cologne. Die Geschichte des Kölnisch Wasser, ed. Werner Schäfke (Cologne: Wienand, 1985) 9-52, p. 27.
    Last edited by the_good_life; 12th May 2007 at 03:36 PM. Reason: orthography
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  2. #2
    Basenotes Institution
    mikeperez23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    26,220

    Default Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    Oh heck, my local supermarket is all out of petit grain. Damnit!

  3. #3
    DON'T DRINK AND DRESS

    kbe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    The Big Blue Marble
    Posts
    17,835
    Blog Entries
    1

    Talking Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    What? No eye of newt?

    Seriously though, sounds like it might smell rather nice..
    Our job is to live joyfully in this world of sorrows--Joseph Campbell

  4. #4

    Default Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    Tom, you little academic research genius. . Good work.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  5. #5

    Default Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post

    The Farina Gegenüber papers indicate that besides having the "magic recipe" the quality of the oils was essential (that's why they are called essential oils ).
    I would think so, because the recipe is pretty straightforward.
    -

  6. #6

    Default Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    This wouldn't be similar to the 4711 one, would it? I remember reading somewhere that the original "Eau de Cologne" was quite different to the 4711 and what we generally call "cologne" today.

  7. #7

    Default Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    Quote Originally Posted by snifferdog View Post
    This wouldn't be similar to the 4711 one, would it? I remember reading somewhere that the original "Eau de Cologne" was quite different to the 4711 and what we generally call "cologne" today.
    4711, Guerlain Imperiale & Coq, Nicolai's Cologne Sologne, Myrurgia 1916 in Spain, even Acqua di Parma all hark back to this kind of traditional Cologne, which redefined perfumery in the 18th century. 4711 is merely are rather inferior mass market version and has, unfortunately, shaped the popular perception of traditional Cologne, at least in Germany, as a cheap-smelling 'Old Granny' thing. The American use of the term cologne for men's perfume (always anxious about masculinity in John Wayne country ) is indeed different. When Germans say EdC they do mean the Farina kind of stuff.
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  8. #8

    TaoLady's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Coastal South Carolina
    Posts
    6,026

    Default Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    What a fascinating thread!! Leave it to a History Professor to dredge up such interesting info. Many thanx!!
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  9. #9

    Default Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    4711, Guerlain Imperiale & Coq, Nicolai's Cologne Sologne, Myrurgia 1916 in Spain, even Acqua di Parma all hark back to this kind of traditional Cologne, which redefined perfumery in the 18th century.
    This is a particular love of mine, especially with hot weather approaching. Which Eau de Cologne would you say is the best of the breed?

  10. #10

    Default Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    Ohhh, I'm going to try that recipe. I have all of those essential oils. This'll be interesting.

    I'll make some up today or tomorrow and post the results.

  11. #11

    Arrow Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    4711, Guerlain Imperiale & Coq, Nicolai's Cologne Sologne, Myrurgia 1916 in Spain, even Acqua di Parma all hark back to this kind of traditional Cologne, which redefined perfumery in the 18th century. 4711 is merely are rather inferior mass market version and has, unfortunately, shaped the popular perception of traditional Cologne, at least in Germany, as a cheap-smelling 'Old Granny' thing. The American use of the term cologne for men's perfume (always anxious about masculinity in John Wayne country ) is indeed different. When Germans say EdC they do mean the Farina kind of stuff.
    In addition to the usages mentioned above---the U.S. usage as usual being the most aberrant---there's also the one referring to a juice with a concentration of aromatic compounds below that of an an eau de toilette. I imagine this sense of the term is older than the U.S. "masculine perfume" sense, but not as old os the "Farina-type fragrance" sense; probably it derives from the latter.

    One point of clarification: if when Germans say EdC they mean the Farina kind of stuff, not the traditional Cologne whose image has been tarnished by mass-market products like 4711, then do I understand correctly that the terms "Cologne" and "EdC" are sharply distinguished in Germany? (Of course there's the place name as well.)

    In the U.S. I suspect most folks think of "cologne" as "masculine perfume," but might not have any clear idea what "eau de Cologne" is.

  12. #12

    Default Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    Sorry, I do need to be more precise: The term "cologne" doesn't exist in German. Only Eau de Cologne. For a men's perfume you would say "Herrenduft" (gent's fragrance).

    Now, I would surmise that older people in particular, and most of all in the far western part of Germany would understand by Eau de Cologne Farina Gegenüber, 4711, etc. pp., i.e. the classic recipe style of fragrance. You're absolutely right that besides that there is the technical term for a lower concentration fragrance, which people with a certain interest in fragrances would be aware of. I think younger people would only know the German term for the first meaning, if at all, i.e. "Kölnisch Wasser," because I believe (from what an old fart like myself can tell) that this has completely fallen out of use with younger generations - actually, even mine already, but it has become progressively more obscure, especially since 4711 advertising has virtually ceased. More women probably know about EdC-EdT-EdP differentiation rather than men. Perhaps that is changing as they have become targets for the beauty industry, and with metrosexuality yadda yadda

    I would be very interested to learn when "cologne" came to be adapted to mean "men's perfume" actually! I'll check the OED and Webster's.
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by Maxwell View Post
    Ohhh, I'm going to try that recipe. I have all of those essential oils. This'll be interesting.

    I'll make some up today or tomorrow and post the results.
    Cool. Don't forget to use a "special vessel" . Actually EdC was matured in wooden casks. But using toasted American oak would give you "Pi" as a result . I guess an old Coors bottle will do for small batches
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by Advocate View Post
    This is a particular love of mine, especially with hot weather approaching. Which Eau de Cologne would you say is the best of the breed?
    There's a thread on this which has Eau de Cologne in the title I believe. It really depends on your personal preference. Besides 4711 I find them all great. Some are more sharp and herbal (Farina Gegenüber, Guerlain Imperiale; Cedrat - pure citrussy topnote), some softer and more Néroli-oriented (Sologne, Berdoues, Etiquette Bleue EdT with a gentle musky base), some more floral (Acqua di Genova - lime&white floral, Acqua di Parma - superb lemon&rose) . Far too many I haven't tried yet, like Villoresi's (discontinued) and a number of other Italians. MPG pour le jeune homme is a great EdT version with a spicier, longer lasting base,
    Last edited by the_good_life; 13th May 2007 at 08:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  13. #13

    Default Re: The legendary recipe for Eau de Cologne Revealed!

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    There's a thread on this which has Eau de Cologne in the title I believe.
    This one?

    http://community.basenotes.net/showt...ht=eau+cologne

    Thanks for reminding me -- I remember reading it at the time but I forgot all of the good recommendations.

Similar Threads

  1. Best Fragrance From Macys
    By leor_77 in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 36
    Last Post: 17th October 2012, 01:22 AM
  2. Must Have Summer Scents: Eau de Rochas
    By scenteur7 in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 21st March 2008, 06:38 PM
  3. Eau De Toilet, Eau De Cologne or Eau De Parfum
    By jbc in forum Just Starting Out
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 6th February 2008, 07:19 PM
  4. Why does it take so long to get fragrances on list
    By Strange Accord in forum No longer missing fragrances
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 24th May 2006, 12:14 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •