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  1. #1
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    Default Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    In honor of this post being my 1,000th post on Basenotes (how time flies...) - I present the 3rd and final installment of the Luca Turin article.

    I also (as promised) posted 2 pictures from the magazine of Mr. Turin and his office that's described in the article. The 1st one is a shot of his VERY cluttered desk, mostly just paperwork and a few bottles/boxes here and there. The 2nd pic is Mr. Turin sitting at a very scientific looking contraption in front of his shelf of hundreds of fragrance bottles.

    There is a 3rd picture which I did not post today (I will post it later this week). I might title the thread "Guess what's on Luca Turin's shelf" - because the picture is the same shelf in the 2nd picture, but Luca is not in front of the shelf. So you can so the entire shelf unobstructed. I'm sure you BN sleuths/bottle enthusiasts will enjoy deciphering the scents on Mr. Turin's shelves.

    Enjoy the rest of the article. The article (and futhermore Basenotes itself) has allowed me the opportunity to acquaint myself with so many people who are passionate about scents (and people like Luca). Here's to 1,000 more posts!

    Mike

    Author: Susie Rushton
    Magazine: Fantastic Man
    Contact: www.fantasticmanmagazine.com (If you like this article, why don't you support FM magazine and buy a copy on newstands now, or even better subscribe - I am in no way affiliated with the magazine, just an admiring fan and FM reader)



    The age-old division between the art and science cultures is vaporized in the person of LUCA TURIN. He recounts how his mother was amazed to discover his talent for writing when he began to publish perfume criticism in 1992. She couldn’t believe you had right brain skills as well as left? "Yes, in fact I think those were her exact words." Yet it is for the joy of the scientific endeavour that TURIN reserves his most fervent evangelism. "You know, science is a really difficult profession. There's nothing like it. A lot of people feel sorry for nerds. But," (he lowers his voice to a whisper) "they're having the best time. Imagine figuring out something really important in science. Not only is it a work of the imagination, it's also true. A novel can't be true. A painting can't be true. It can be great. In science, things can be both great and true. That's a drug, you know. If you ever taste that stuff once, you're finished."

    For those addicted to TURIN'S brilliant depiction of perfumes however, next year offers an opportunity to binge: he is currently writing a guide to 1500 fragrances, due to be published next spring. "Well, with some of them I'll only write three words. With something like MITSOUKO you can either gas on about it or just say 'Go buy it. Put the book down and RUN'."

    As he is ever obliging with a recommendation, I ask TURIN if he'd mind making suggestions for the following occasions when the correct scent is required?

    How about, dumping a lover?

    “HOUBIGAN'T's DUC DE VERVINS so she'll be glad to see me go.”

    Vacuuming the house on a Sunday afternoon?

    "That funny sun-dried tomato smell of HOOVER exhaust is just too good to mix with anything."

    When giving up smoking?

    "TABAC by MAURER AND WIRTZ"

    A transatlantic flight?

    "BEEF or, perhaps, CHICKEN by DEMETER."

    What about some neglected classics that readers of FANTASTIC MAN might want to re-discover?

    TURIN starts poking around on the three-tiered shelves crammed with approximately six hundred glass bottles, "Well JESUS CHRIST. What about JULES by DIOR," says TURIN gleefully, reaching to the back of a middle shelf. “It's so sexy.”

    We both spray our arms. It smells really shitty.

    "Yep. It's got a ton of civet and a sweaty note." He holds his forearm across his face. I can't believe they get away with that now.

    "They are getting away with it!" TURIN yells. ''God bless them! Listen. The first five minutes may be bad, but then you can't live without it."

    What about something a bit melancholic?

    "NEW YORK by PATRICIA DE NICOLAI is another sad and lovely one. It's sexy in a melancholy way. In a ‘Let's see if by making love you can make me smile' kind of way."

    Although it seems likely that on most days he'd usually have half-a-dozen fragrances spritzed about his person, TURIN declares that he currently favours CALDEY ISLAND LAVENDER. "I like its abstraction. It's quiet and nondescript." On the whole he doesn't like what he terms "cutesy-pie" modern male fragrances (making exception for 'lovely carroty' DIOR HOMME).

    So what does today's very masculine guy wear?

    "I think," pronounces TURIN, straightening himself to full height in the centre of the room, "that the really masculine man, if he's really not worried, if he has really no problems - no need for chest-wigs or penis-extensions - then he sprays a pffft of JOY BY JEAN PATOU. Or go for any old GUERLAIN. Pre-WWI is the criterion. That's what you do. Not that I'm a super-masculine guy, but the occasions when, just for fun, I've put on GlORGlO, nobody's ever said. 'This is a woman's fragrance.' It just smells great."

    If the distinction between masculine and feminine fragrances completely arbitrary?

    “The main difference is that the feminine fragrances are intended to be loud. You should aim for an aura about an inch deep. So as a guy you shouldn't over-egg it. But, you know," - and it's the biophysicist who concludes, exultant at the self-evident fact - "everything in culture is arbitrary."
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2

    wicozani's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Thanks, and congratulations on making a 1,000!
    Last edited by wicozani; 21st May 2007 at 04:38 PM.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Wow that desk looks like its from the 1920s .. and whats A. Hopkins doing there?

    Chicken and Beef by Demeter ... gotta try 'em now !

    Congrats and thanks !
    -

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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Mike, you rock! Thanks for the work you've put in reproducing the series, I for one appreciate it. I'm gunning for my five-star as well, I hope to have something as interesting to post for my 1000th.
    De gustibus non est disputandum

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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Thanks Mike.

    I love Jules but think they've attenuated the base in the reformulation. Still has the good dirty/muskiness but lacks longevity. Wore one of those Pre WW1 Guerlains (for all practical purposes anyway) last night - Vol de Nuit. It's prime juice of the sort you rarely find anymore.
    Last edited by pluran; 21st May 2007 at 10:08 PM. Reason: P16VRising

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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Wonderful job, Michael, and such a welcome contribution! Thank you once more ! Here's to the next thousand....
    :wave: - darned - somebody just stole my mug!

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Wore one of those Pre WW1 Guerlains last night - Vol de Nuit. It's prime juice of the sort you rarely find anymore.
    Vol de Nuit = 1933 = pre WW1
    ?


    Last edited by narcus; 21st May 2007 at 09:44 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus;1030001[SIZE=2
    Vol de Nuit = 1933 = pre WW1 [/size]
    Close enough considering Jacques Guerlain was at the helm of most all of them and his nervous system was relatively unaffected by the war.
    Last edited by pluran; 21st May 2007 at 10:03 PM. Reason: V20GMid

  8. #8

    Wink Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Thank you for posting the article that is insightful. I can't wait for upcoming pics

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    You're welcome everyone - my favorite parts of the article:

    1. When he says that he 'thinks in French.' LOL
    2. His explanation of the smell of vacuuming, 'that wonderful sundried tomato smell' - I swear I immediately related to that when he said it and I don't think I've ever put the smell to words before.
    3. His passionate emotional response to explaining his favorite cologne Nombre Noir and how you can 'fall' in love' with a fragrance.
    4. His recommendation of the simple mens fragrances (like Brut) over 'bloody M7'.
    5. His forthrightness in recommending men just wear whatever they damn well please...it's nice to know that Mr. Turin agrees with so much of us here on BN on that topic. Plus I think it's great that he loves Giorgio by Beverly Hills...I've always loved that scent and never had the balls to wear it. Now I think I will.

    Things that surprised me in the article:

    1. His description of Dior Homme as 'carroty' - I had heard someone else use this description before in a review and to be honest I never got one single carrot note from DH at all.
    2. The reasons he described for stopping his blog - such a personal confession: he has a Web addiction...boy, he's not alone.
    3. His description of the chypre base of Cuir de Russie being the base for Dioressence - which he also says smells like 31 Rue Cambon. Made me want to run out and get all three on my wrist at once, so I could see what he's talking about.
    4. His mess and disorganization - I guess he's just a real person like me (my office can be quite a mess sometimes), but this is LUCA TURIN...you think he'd clean up the office for the journalist set to arrive to his office? But no, just cluttered as usual. As if he could care less. Very interesting.
    5. As a kid he was 'not very interested in smells'. I can't relate. Since a child I HAVE been fascinated with smells/fragrances. Guess sometimes the 'fragrance' bug can just come along and creep up on you, like it did for him.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 22nd May 2007 at 04:00 AM.

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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    1. His description of Dior Homme as 'carroty' - I had heard someone else use this description before in a review and to be honest I never got one single carrot note from DH at all.
    Perhaps he confused it with Hermes Hiris.
    Last edited by zztopp; 22nd May 2007 at 04:08 AM.
    -

  11. #11

    Cool Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    1. When he says that he 'thinks in French.' LOL
    No, better: he SMELLS in French!

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Quote Originally Posted by d4 View Post
    No, better: he SMELLS in French!
    My bad.

    Exactly...even more hilarious. I say this, because my boss (and most of my co-workers) are French (born in Paris, etc.) so I know what he means when he says this.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Great article, thanks for sharing, Mike, and congratulations for your fifth star!
    "It is the mark of a brave man to admit defeat, cut his loss and move on." - David Ogilvy

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    it seems cluttered to many but I build a map of where things are and I usually find them. Nothing makes it harder to remember than when it's all put away tidily. Must be my ADD.

    Thank you again Mike for the opportunity and thank you for the time you spent putting this together.

  15. #15

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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Perhaps he confused it with Hermes Hiris.
    No he didn't!
    I don't remember the words I may have used, but carrot is what I smelled a year ago what I still detect when people wear Dior Homme ! For good reasons I do not even own as much as a sample of Homme myself.

    There is a European supplier for baby food, Alete, and when you open that particular delicacy with carrots.... I'll have to stop here, or else ..
    Recently (Mar-Apr) the thread I love Dior Homme / Schlomo surfaced once more, and one poster mentioned he gets carrot, and another one confirmed that he had perceived something carroty also. Including Turin, that makes four odd noses!

    Where I probably differ: carrots or not, I find DH a bit short of testosterone, and if I want a feminine fragrance I go all the way!

    Mike, the pictures are fascinating me! Not every magazine would publish these. I think it's great they did, and rather magnanimous of LT to allow them being published.
    Questions: what kind of machine is Luca holding on his knees? The principle by which items have been ordered on LT's desk, shelf, and carpet isn't really obvious. Has that been explained at one point in time?
    Last edited by narcus; 22nd May 2007 at 01:27 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    . . . 1. His description of Dior Homme as 'carroty' - I had heard someone else use this description before in a review and to be honest I never got one single carrot note from DH at all.
    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Perhaps he confused it with Hermes Hiris.

    I tested Dior Homme today after reading Turin's description, and sure enough, there is a "carroty" note there. If one is familiar with Pierre Bourdon's Mark Birely for Men, one will recognize a similar note doubtlessly achieved by the use of carrot seed oil. Carrot seed oil is used to give a certain substantiality to men's fragrances a kind of interesting earthy, rooty vegetal nuance. When you think of it, it makes perfect sense as the carrot seed note accords well with the rooty woodiness of the iris note and might well be what extends that earthy rootiness longer than most iris based fragrances.

    While I wouldn't go so far as to describe Dior Homme as "carroty"--clearly Turin is homing in on an aspect of the fragrance and, perhaps showcasing his skills a little in doing so--it's definitely there if you look for it, and if you are familiar with the "carroty" nuance of carrot seed oil.

    I am glad to see Turin singled out Dior Homme as a cut above the rest, which I have always felt it is.

    scentemental

    Last edited by scentemental; 22nd May 2007 at 03:09 PM.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    No he didn't!

    Where I probably differ: carrots or not, I find DH a bit short of testosterone, and if I want a feminine fragrance I go all the way!

    _____________

    Questions: what kind of machine is Luca holding on his knees? The principle by which items have been ordered on LT's desk, shelf, and carpet isn't really obvious. Has that been explained at one point in time?
    I have a little tester of DH at home (I got total 'makeup bag from it, so its not one of my favorites) but I will retest soon with the sole purpose of detecting the carrot seed note...

    I was wondering about the contraption he is sitting at also - looks like a knitting wheel...I was thinking that it might have something to do with his molecule studies, etc...

    Maybe when his book comes out, he'll discuss the 'machine'?

  18. #18

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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    [quote=mikeperez23;1030430I was wondering about the contraption he is sitting at also - looks like a knitting wheel...I was thinking that it might have something to do with his molecule studies, etc...
    Maybe when his book comes out, he'll discuss the 'machine'?[/quote] Actually...I cannot exclude the possibility of having read something about it in 'The Emperor'. Molecule movement...nose perception..? I wonder how Burr saw Lucas house? You should see the house from outside, the whole street...a real Prof. Higgins kind of street! They'have shown that in the other interview. How can I capture a still or two from a DVD (.jpg or other picture format) ?
    Last edited by narcus; 23rd May 2007 at 10:10 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Thanks for posting this, Mike, and thanks for your thoughts and reflections afterwards. I really really enjoyed it - it was the kind of inspired and thoughtful discourse that I love to see on these boards. Yay for you!
    Seeking: woods patchouli fresh tuberose


  20. #20

    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    Questions: what kind of machine is Luca holding on his knees?
    It looks like a Wimshurst machine. Quite what it has to do with perfumery... i dunno

  21. #21

    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Thank you so much for the transcript! I specially enjoyed the last 2 parts you posted...

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Thanks for posting this, it was a great article and I am looking forward to LT's reviews on 1500 perfume.
    I spotted NORELL on his shelf, I saw this in a small pharmacy in HK, but there is no tester for it. Does anyone here owns it and know what it is like?
    One final note, it would be good if Shiseido brings Nombre Noir back to the shelf. I am dying to sniff this one master piece.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Nice! I am also captured by the device in Luca's lap. What is that? On the table I thought it was some odd piece of art. His shelf looks like Expedit from IKEA, but with Venetian Blinds attached...
    Arte et labore

  24. #24

    Default Re: Luca Turin article text (part 3 of 3) in Fantastic Man mag with PICS

    Nice! I am also intrigued by the device in Luca's lap. What is that? On the table I thought it was some odd piece of art. His shelf looks like Expedit from IKEA, but with Venetian Blinds attached...
    Arte et labore

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