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  1. #1

    Lightbulb I want an ancient scent

    I need a fragrance that does not smell generic.

    As soon as I enter a department store, the first place I run to is the fragrance section. An avid saleswoman greets me with a spritz of something that is supposed to make my day. Bummer. It always smells like all the other 10,000 department store fragrances I've been shown before.

    We like trees and greenery because our inner nature harmonizes with their nature. I want a scent that transports you like the trees do. Nothing too synthetic, too aquatic, too manufactured.

    Am I the only one that feels there's something overwhelmingly generic about the department store stuff? Like the little scent folds that come in magazines. Too much about the fashion statement, and too little about the perfumer's art.

    It must be expensive. I want a fragrance that a prophet would wear. Nothing technologically manufactured and reeking of pollution and traffic and global warming and hazardous waste....

    Please list the one scent that you think would suit me as my ideal fragrance.

    Oud Man
    Last edited by Oud Man; 22nd May 2007 at 07:39 AM.

  2. #2
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Mazzolari Mazzolari

  3. #3

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Just use oud oil like I do.
    Very unusual, very natural, and hard to forget

  4. #4

    Arrow Re: I want an ancient scent

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Mazzolari Mazzolari

    I am going to keenly follow the responses of members to this thread unless it doesnt become 'just another recommendation' thread.

    Well to begin with the first suggestion, i couldnt find NOTHING about it.
    What is it? Where do you get it?
    I could just find Alessandro. Is that what you meant?

    Pluran, it would be nice if you could shed some light on it.

    thanks

    gupts
    Last edited by gupts; 22nd May 2007 at 08:02 AM. Reason: typo

  5. #5

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Quote Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post
    Just use oud oil like I do.
    Very unusual, very natural, and hard to forget
    I already use Oud oil, Moon Fish, otherwise I wouldn't be the Oud Man. I need a perfume.
    Last edited by Oud Man; 22nd May 2007 at 08:06 AM.

  6. #6

    Thumbs up Re: I want an ancient scent

    Czech and Speake No. 88 is certainly expensive, it's ancient, it's so very natural smelling and it really makes a statement. Without a doubt one of the most amazing fragrances I have ever smelled, check out directory for some reviews.

    Please Mr. Oud Man, do not miss out on this one. You wont be dissapointed.

  7. #7
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Quote Originally Posted by gupts View Post
    I am going to keenly follow the responses of members to this thread unless it doesnt become 'just another recommendation' thread.

    Well to begin with the first suggestion, i couldnt find NOTHING about it.
    What is it? Where do you get it?
    I could just find Alessandro. Is that what you meant?

    Pluran, it would be nice if you could shed some light on it.

    thanks

    gupts
    http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/detai...2807&section=2

    It's smoky, woody, resinous/coniferous. Smells like the rainforest I live in. A substantial, high quality fragrance in all respects.

    Grant hasn't uploaded all the Mazzolari frags. Vetiver, Patchouli, and Lui are also excellent.
    Last edited by pluran; 22nd May 2007 at 08:58 PM. Reason: V20GMid

  8. #8

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    I've tried several samples of Mazzolari's line.

    Luckyscent and Italy seem to be the places to get them.

    the directory shows one - Allesandro - luckyscent has 10 different fragrances for sale.

    Last edited by fredricktoo; 22nd May 2007 at 08:49 AM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Aoud Damascus by Montale, a deep dusky rose in a beautiful accord with green notes. Exudes intelligence, sensuousness, warmth, and mystery. Even the name is great.
    Last edited by Sestra; 22nd May 2007 at 08:52 AM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Creed, Royal English Leather (last reformulated 1805) - a sweet, oriental leather worn by Georges II & IV. Doing well in the current Creed poll and rightly so. Regal.

    Farina Gegenüber dem Jülichsplatz (original 18th century recipe): The mother of all Eau de Colognes. For spring and summer. Néroli, rosemary, lemon, petitgrain.

    Some newer ones that have nothing to do with your average massmarket fragrances:

    Besides Mazzolari, I'd look into Villoresi, Lutens, Creed, Patricia de Nicolai, Divine, Floris, Penhaligon's, Trueffitt & Hill, Trumper for "craft " fragrances

    Some that I love:

    Lorenzo Villoresi Sandalo
    Floris Sandalwood
    Creed Bois de Santal
    Lutens Santal de Mysore
    Lutens Ambre Sultan
    Lutens Arabie
    Villoresi Incensi
    Valentino Vendetta ph
    Penhaligon's Castile
    Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet
    Penhaligon's English Fern
    Crown Perfumery Sandringham
    Roger Gallet JM Farina
    de Nicolai Cologne Sologne
    de Nicolai Haute Provence
    de Nicolai New York
    Caldey Lavender
    Crown Spiced Limes
    Jil Sander Man Pure
    R de Capucci
    Patou pour homme
    Mazzolari Lui
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  11. #11

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Eau Lente - Diptyque

  12. #12

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    I want to go out on a limb here and suggest Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet. I think this is really knockout and it usually doesn't get considered for questions like this one, although it fits perfectly for them.

    Good Life is also onto something good with his Royal English Leather suggestion.
    Good luck!
    --Chris
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  13. #13

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    creed santal imperial
    crown imperial cologne
    creed bois de cedrat
    creed royal scottish lavender
    acqua di parma colonia
    geo f trumper spanish leather
    guerlain imperiale
    creed citrus bigarrade
    hermes eau d'orange verte
    creed royal english leather

    all fashion-proof, old and thoroughly excellent (though adp is currently very fashionable).
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  14. #14

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    I don't have one scent, but if you want something that smells like the outdoors, though they aren't natural at all, try CB I Hate Perfume. He makes more reality scents that smell close to the thing they should be. Black March is the earth in spring. To Smell a flower is the flower, stems, leaves, roots, dirt, everything.

    I think he's a genius, not everyone agrees, but if you want something that smells completely different, he's your guy.
    Visit our perfume blog - Perfume Posse

  15. #15

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Wonderful suggestions! All that is, except for No.88 (sorry, Johnny)
    De gustibus non est disputandum

  16. #16

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Guerlain Vetiver (60s)
    Guerlain Heritage (Formulated 1992, but an ode to the classics)
    Patou Pour Homme (1980)
    "You smell kinda pretty! Wanna Smell me ?"
    - Johnny Bravo

    Wardrobe

  17. #17

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Helmut Lang Cologne - very frankincensey on me. I think this is discontinued, but you might be able to find it on ebay or swap for it. The prices are relatively reasonable on ebay for this ... at least right now.

    Diptyche L'Eau - a traditional pomander frag

    Our third place contestant is M7. Something tells me you already have this.
    Last edited by MisterK; 22nd May 2007 at 05:54 PM.
    [FONT=Book Antiqua]MisterK / Vicomte de K / K[/FONT]
    [FONT=Book Antiqua]Ephemeral Top 5: YSL PH HC, Worth PH, Equipage, Monsieur Rochas HC, Acqua di Gio[/FONT]

  18. #18
    Off-Scenter
    Guest

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Essence Oil Cardamom and Khyphi. Supposedly based on ancient Egyptian incense formulae, very distinct from oud, and nobody else will be wearing it.

  19. #19

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    It's not ancient, but it has it's roots in history..George Dodd's Robbie Burns for men. Smokey/peaty whisky with a green heart.

    Barry

  20. #20

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    I would look into Cumming by Alan Cumming. Perfumer: Christopher Brosius, has a line of fragrances called "CB I Hate Perfume". So Cumming is not like anything I've ever tried and uses notes that you don't find in a lot of other fragrances. It is very earthy. Somewhat hard to come by, at a discount price anyway, but it can be had at: http://www.cummingthefragrance.com or on the Sephora web site.
    In all matters of opinion, our adversaries are insane - Oscar Wilde

  21. #21

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Prophets are generally poor and wouldn't use a cosmetic product that could cloud the mind. I think that perhaps, however, that philosophers could wear something like Tam Dao, by Diptyque, or even Philosykos, by Diptyque.

    All of that aside, I would recommend to you a line of fragrances that may suit you perfectly. Montale. Specifically their Aoud line. You can order samples from here, and also bottles. http://www.aedes.com/brand.php?brand_id=78&cat_id=1
    If you choose to order samples, go to the bottom of the page, and look for the samples link. READ the info before you click order. Near the end of the process, it will ask you to confirm your order and there will be a text box which will let you enter what samples you want in there.

    Specifically from the Montale Aoud line, Black Aoud. I would recommend smelling most of the Aoud line, and you will have a chance to through their samples program, but Black Aoud is so divine and tenacious. It is a perfume, but it smells so unbelievably natural on skin that you just emanate the fragrance. Another Aoud you might like is Aoud Lime, though it is way off the charts on how much it DOESN'T smell like cologne.
    - Rich
    Last edited by _R$_; 22nd May 2007 at 07:06 PM.
    As always, disregard most of what I say. It's not worth your heart health to actually worry about what a 23 year old guy from Kansas thinks. Even if he is really ridiculously good looking.

  22. #22

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Both Timbuktu and Voleur de Roses come to mind. Both are from L'Artisan, expensive, and (to me) have a very spiritual aspect. Not to mention, both (again, to me) are magnificent. I have worn the former to mosque on several occasions and would love to do the same with the latter, except I do not own it.
    You are not your perfume.

  23. #23

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    How about Michael Storer's Monk?

  24. #24

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Quote Originally Posted by _R$_ View Post
    Prophets are generally poor and wouldn't use a cosmetic product that could cloud the mind. I think that perhaps, however, that philosophers could wear something like Tam Dao, by Diptyque, or even Philosykos, by Diptyque.
    - Rich
    Actually historical religious/prophetic figures have always been associated with and worn fragrances. Jesus was regularly annnointed with fragrant oil blends (frankincense, myrrh, spikenard, cinnamon, etc.) and the Prophet Muhammad supposedly loved perfumes and regularly wore rose and musk blends. In India most deities are associated with a particular plant fragrance, and the Hindu prophet Krishna is said to have smelled like sandalwood and/or patchouli.

    Alternately, many early Greek philosophers actually frowned on perfumery, saying that it caused ones mind to weaken and promoted lust.

  25. #25

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Quote Originally Posted by Maxwell View Post
    the Hindu prophet Krishna is said to have smelled like sandalwood and/or patchouli.
    I can vouch for that. In India, bits of sandalwood (with addition of water) are scrubbed against a stony base to make this sandalwood paste which is then applied all over Lord Krishna's figure.

    gupts

  26. #26

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Quote Originally Posted by Oud Man View Post
    I need a fragrance that does not smell generic
    I suggest Caron Tabac Blond extrait de parfum

  27. #27

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    I have heard a lot about Caron's Tabac Blond. Am unable to find it anywhere in the US. Another concern regarding it is that it's labeled as a "women's fragrance"...?

    Can somebody direct me to where I may find a sample?
    Last edited by Oud Man; 23rd May 2007 at 03:16 AM.

  28. #28

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Quote Originally Posted by Oud Man View Post
    I have heard a lot about Caron's Tabac Blond. Am unable to find it anywhere in the US. Another concern regarding it is that it's labeled as a "women's fragrance"...?

    Can somebody direct me to where I may find a sample?
    Phone the Caron Boutique in New York, and they will fill a sample vial for you and mail it to you for a few dollars. It is also very easy to purchase Caron fragrances by phoning the Caron Boutique. The address and phone number are listed here: http://www.parfumscaron.fr/UK/contac...ces_caron.html

    Tabac Blond is very wearable for a man. Do not be concerned that it is labelled as a woman's fragrance.

    For a fragrance that is not generic, I also suggest:
    - Balenciaga Pour Homme
    - Chanel Antaeus
    - Aramis JHL
    - Patou Pour Homme Prive
    --------------------------------------
    For Tabac Blond, I also recommend that you contact Basenotes member Buffalo_Gals
    Last edited by Rockford; 23rd May 2007 at 03:59 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  29. #29

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Quote Originally Posted by _R$_ View Post
    I would recommend to you a line of fragrances that may suit you perfectly. Montale. Specifically their Aoud line. I would recommend smelling most of the Aoud line, and you will have a chance to through their samples program, but Black Aoud is so divine and tenacious. It is a perfume, but it smells so unbelievably natural on skin that you just emanate the fragrance. Another Aoud you might like is Aoud Lime, though it is way off the charts on how much it DOESN'T smell like cologne.
    I agree with you that Montale's 'Aoud' line is way different from most generic colognes. And I see how it could appeal to a Western audience.

    However my personal experiences with Oud have ruined me for the 'Aouds'. For one, Oud is not eau de toilette, eau de parfum or cologne, but an essential oil that is distilled from an evergreen that gets bit by strange insects in the jungles of the Far East. Real Oud is not blended with other ingredients, nor is it ever diluted with anything.

    In light of this, Montale's 'Aoud' is as close to Oud as Creed's Original Santal is to Sandalwood.

    But this should not (and does not) prevent me from enjoying the Montales for what they are.

    What really does it for me is this unmistakable ingredient that predominates in each of Montale's Aouds.

    This, according to a non-connoisseur, is probably the Aoud note. It is extremely clear, distinct, and you can't miss it in each of the perfumes in this line.

    To me, it is a transportation to Dubai's many Oud shops and all my memories of the Emirates. It is like flipping through a picture album and being filled with memories and wonder and recollection.

    Recollection of the cheapest type of 'Oud' incense that they burn in these shops, and the whiffs of which will follow you through every shopping mall, and every perfume vendor's little corner shop.

    They call it 'bukhoor' -- and rather than raw agarwood (i.e. Oud wood / incense) it is little shavings of aromatic wood which are soaked in a synthetic oil that gives a strong "Oud-like" fragrance.

    And this is what Oud is in the Emirates and Saudi Arabia, where Montale got his inspiration. A popular scent, not a rare and precious essential oil.

    All of this being said, we come to the third and main reason why I don't wear the Montale Aouds. They're just way too expensive for what they are.

    I don't know if the Saudi Arabian company that produces that incense has a website or online shop, but you can search for it. It is called 'Al Aoud Al Arab' -- or 'Arabian Oud'. The incense I'm referring to comes in a brown wooden box; the container itself being a white semi-transparent jar that evokes Middle Eastern architecture, with a golden top.

    I have resolved to pay them a visit on my next trip to Dubai or Saudi, and ask them what that oil is which they dip their incense in. I am sure that's what Montale uses in his perfumes. They smell identical to the incense.
    Last edited by Oud Man; 1st July 2008 at 03:15 AM.

  30. #30

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Well, if Oud oil is not enough - try to obtain Kolnisch Juchten by Farina Gegenuber (or Regence Parfums). It`s smoky leather, dark and oily.
    I used to wear Montale Oud Cuir d`Arabie as well, just to combine this scent with oud oil.
    --------------------------------------
    well, Oud Man, thank you for enlightment with oud wood and oil.

    As for the Montale line - I was lucky enough to met Pierre himself in his Paris boutique. He presented me his Aoud line on blotters, and give me a try of the oud oil (1 tola per 300 or 400 euro) as well. I can judge only by his words - he said that he owns agarwood plantation in Cambodja, where 20 workers grows the wood and distillates the oil. So the perfumes does contain the oil (not a chemical).

    I do own oud oil too - not the best kind in a world, it came from Thailand plantations. But I`m sure it`s not diluted, as I bought it in Thailand, in the point of production.
    As far as I know, there`re some `improved` oils that smells more appropriate and `perfumey` that is made specially for UAE...
    Last edited by moon_fish; 23rd May 2007 at 04:44 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  31. #31

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    That is very interesting, Moon Fish. I would like to have smelled some of that Oud oil he showed you (the undiluted version).

    I never denied the possibility that the Aouds might contain some Oud (just as Creed's Original Santal obviously cannot be altogether devoid of real sandalwood oil).

    It's just that the Oud note in the Aouds is too blunt and one-dimensional for my taste (and reminds me of that incense from Dubai!).

    And this is explained by what Montale himself told you regarding the origin of his Aoud ingredient -- that it comes from an agarwood plantation in Cambodia. What that means, Moon Fish, is that Montale uses cultivated Oud in his Aoud line.

    That is a totally different ball game from the agarwood that's infected naturally in the jungle, matures for (at times) up to forty or fifty years, and then collapses when the resin has permeated the whole trunk.

    Very different aroma. You can get cultivated Oud oil online from Eden Botanicals. It reminds me of the iodine-filled sea breeze I used to savor as a child on the seashore. Very salty fragrance.

    In any case, thanks a million, Moon Fish. I was very curious about Montale's Aoud ingredient, and you have quenched my curiosity. I will be on the lookout for some cultivated Cambodian Oud oil. (Or pay Montale a visit in his Paris boutique!)

    Oud Man
    Last edited by Oud Man; 23rd May 2007 at 05:40 AM.

  32. #32

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    I second both Timbuktu and Tabac Blond.

    Here are some others to try.

    Guerlain ~ Habit Rouge EDP ( this has a sublime oud note in the base instead of the vanilla overdose thats in the original. Also, unlike the agarwood in many of the Montales, this oud doesn't smell cheap/low grade.)

    MPG ~ Soir d'Orient (ditto what i said above about the oud. This one is hard to find. I bought some from Diane >> Buffalo_Gals / Dragonfly00.)

    Idole de Lubin
    L'Artisan ~ Dzongkha
    MPG ~ Eau des Illes / Santal Noble
    Ormonde Jayne ~ Man
    Parfumerie Generale ~ Harmatan Noir / Iris Taizo / Coze
    Tauer ~ L'Air du Dessert Marocain
    CdG Incense ~ Kyoto / Zagorsk
    SMN ~ Pot-Pourri



    Also,if you haven't tried Green Papua, Sweet China and Oud Shuyukh by Oriscent, i highly recommend them. These three will take you away!
    Last edited by ajmc; 23rd May 2007 at 05:59 AM.

  33. #33

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Quote Originally Posted by Maxwell View Post
    Actually historical religious/prophetic figures have always been associated with and worn fragrances. Jesus was regularly annnointed with fragrant oil blends (frankincense, myrrh, spikenard, cinnamon, etc.) and the Prophet Muhammad supposedly loved perfumes and regularly wore rose and musk blends. In India most deities are associated with a particular plant fragrance, and the Hindu prophet Krishna is said to have smelled like sandalwood and/or patchouli.

    Alternately, many early Greek philosophers actually frowned on perfumery, saying that it caused ones mind to weaken and promoted lust.
    Oops, did I have that backwards? Oh well, enough reefer for me today.

    Oud Man -
    I was under the impression that it was a fungus that causes the natural resin response that produces Oud, not insects. Maybe in Dubai, they have access to real Oud oils, and maybe that's what they dip their incense sticks in. Just thoughts...
    - Rich
    As always, disregard most of what I say. It's not worth your heart health to actually worry about what a 23 year old guy from Kansas thinks. Even if he is really ridiculously good looking.

  34. #34

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Quote Originally Posted by ajmc View Post
    Also,if you haven't tried Green Papua, Sweet China and Oud Shuyukh by Oriscent, i highly recommend them. These three will take you away!
    AJMC, I've tried all of these. My all time favorite is Borneo 3000, and the very recent Oud Sulaiman.

    I saw this on their site sometime last week. It was on for only one day, and then it disappeared. Stunning crystal flacon.
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by _R$_ View Post
    Oud Man -
    I was under the impression that it was a fungus that causes the natural resin response that produces Oud, not insects. Maybe in Dubai, they have access to real Oud oils, and maybe that's what they dip their incense sticks in. Just thoughts...
    - Rich
    Rich, that is absolutely correct. Oud does originate from a fungal infection, but that fungal infection originates from an insect boring into the trunk of the tree.

    And yes, they do have access to real Oud oil in Dubai, but they dilute it heavily and blend it with all sorts of fillers and diluting agents to cut costs and increase profit.

    I've spoken with the heads of several major businesses there (can't name them here), and they will all admit that they mix their Ouds with other stuff to bring costs down.

    In no way can a $40 box of incense be dipped in real Oud oil.

    Alas, I started this thread looking for something to wear alongside my Oud oils, and the discussion has totally gone in the wrong direction.
    Last edited by Oud Man; 23rd May 2007 at 06:49 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  35. #35

    Default Re: I want an ancient scent

    Quote Originally Posted by Oud Man View Post
    I've spoken with the heads of several major businesses there (can't name them here), and they will all admit that they mix their Ouds with other stuff to bring costs down.
    So its similar to the way sandalwood oil in most fragrances is mixed with cedar ("an adulterant") to bring costs down.
    -

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