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  1. #1
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    mikeperez23's Avatar
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    Default Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Wearing Tuscan Leather today (Tom Ford) - one of my favorite so far. This is not a review of Tuscan Leather, but instead, a reaction to a leather note that I don't think I've ever come upon until now. Up to now the leather I've experienced fell into two general categories (to my nose):

    1. Animalic leather - I've said this before, it was not necessarily the smell of musk or civet, but the smell of barnyard animals hides (when the animal is alive, not when its been skinned). Two scents that I feel this way about are: Film Noir by Ava Luxe and A.maze by People of the Labyrinths.

    2. Freshly tanned (raw smellling) leather - no animal smell, perhaps a faint industrial 'tang' to the leather note that makes it smell (to my nose) like leather chaps or leather clothing (for lack of a better word). Scents: Cuir Ottoman by Parfums D'Empire, Cuir de Russie by Chanel, and Knize Ten.

    Then there is this 'new' third one I smell in Tuscan Leather: high grade buttery fine leather. Akin to the smell of a brand new luxury automobile interior, or the smell of sticking your nose inside a new womans leather purse (a NICE woman's purse - maybe a Coach bag...) and inhaling the scent.

    I feel more drawn towards the animalic leathers I first mentioned (just cuz I like edgy scents) but Tuscan Leather's leather note has stopped me in my tracks...quite different and tenacious. Almost in an industrial way (CdG Synthetic series kind of...) but at the same time, classy. Hope that makes sense. I also thought about that new Hermes scent coming out soon, Kelly Caleche - maybe that will have this same 'high end leather goods' note in it (the smell of a Hermes bag?)

    Have any more experienced Basenoters have similar experiences with leather (no, not THOSE kind of experiences...!)?
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Interesting take. I've tended to categorize my leathers, too, but my categories differ slightly.

    I've got the animalic leathers, in which group I include Cuir d'Oranger, Tabac Blond, Parfum d'Habit, and Auod Cuir d'Arabie.

    Then I have the smoky leathers, including Idole de Lubin, Rebellius, Habanita (I know, Edwards calls it an oriental, but I smell plenty of leather in there,) and Palais Jamais.

    Then, instead of the "buttery, fine" leathers, but perhaps close to them, are what I think of as the sweet fruity leathers. These include prominent notes of apricot, cherry, or plum and dry down very sweet on me. Here I'd include Cuir Ottoman (cherry), Armani Prive Cuir Amethyste (plum?), and especially Daim Blond (apricot).

    And, by the way, I too favor the animalic ones, along with the smoky. The leathers I characterize as "fruity" usually seem too tame to me.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    I've been stalking your posts just to hear your analysis on Tuscan Leather, mikeperez. Now both you and Vibert have given me some food for thought, re: leather categories. I have to go sniff these beauties again.
    I'm simplifying my life. For Sale Thread (some niche, some designer):
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=222407

  4. #4

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Mike, hello from Meridian Ave. I recently tried Eau de Gloire by Parfum d'Empire and to my nose it smelled very, I mean very, similiar to Tuscan Leather. EdG is not listed as a leather fragrance per se, it does have leather in the base, but my impression of Tuscan Leather is that it really isn't a true leather fragrance either. To me it smells of tobacco and smoke. Also, Daim Blond doesn't smell like suede to me either, more like an abstract idea of suede.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 25th May 2007 at 11:47 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    ...Also, Daim Blond doesn't smell like suede to me either, more like an abstract idea of suede.
    I have to admit, I seem to be one of the few to pick up much real leather in Daim Blond. It does seem more up front in the opening, before the candied fruit nudges its way into the spotlight.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Anyone tried Eau d' Hermes? It was formulated by a leather company (originally saddles) which makes fine expensive leather bags for men/women amongnt other things. It's the richest leather I've ever smelled.

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    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Quote Originally Posted by fredricktoo View Post
    Anyone tried Eau d' Hermes? It was formulated by a leather company (originally saddles) which makes fine expensive leather bags for men/women amongnt other things. It's the richest leather I've ever smelled.
    Eau d'Hermes has been on my "to try" list for a long time. Still haven't gotten hold of a sample, but I think anything by Roudnitska is worth a try!

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post

    1. Animalic leather - I've said this before, it was not necessarily the smell of musk or civet, but the smell of barnyard animals hides (when the animal is alive, not when its been skinned). Two scents that I feel this way about are: Film Noir by Ava Luxe and A.maze by People of the Labyrinths.

    2. Freshly tanned (raw smellling) leather - no animal smell, perhaps a faint industrial 'tang' to the leather note that makes it smell (to my nose) like leather chaps or leather clothing (for lack of a better word). Scents: Cuir Ottoman by Parfums D'Empire, Cuir de Russie by Chanel, and Knize Ten.

    Then there is this 'new' third one I smell in Tuscan Leather: high grade buttery fine leather. Akin to the smell of a brand new luxury automobile interior, or the smell of sticking your nose inside a new womans leather purse (a NICE woman's purse - maybe a Coach bag...) and inhaling the scent.

    Have any more experienced Basenoters have similar experiences with leather (no, not THOSE kind of experiences...!)?
    mikeperez, if we could nominate a poster of the year, i would nominate you. your posts are ALWAYS interesting, informed and well-written.

    my categories are animal/saddles (dzing, lonestar memories), black leather jacket/briefcase/motorcycle (bulgari black, parfum d'empire cuir ottoman) and handbags/gloves (cuir de russie, daim blonde, cabochard, chanel no. 19). so in a way i follow your three-part category, but they're not dissimilar. i wonder if the mental associations with leather goods affect our scented categorizations of them.
    Seeking: woods patchouli fresh tuberose


  9. #9

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Quote Originally Posted by fredricktoo View Post
    Anyone tried Eau d' Hermes? It was formulated by a leather company (originally saddles) which makes fine expensive leather bags for men/women amongnt other things. It's the richest leather I've ever smelled.
    I have to agree with the following Basenotes review of Eau d'Hermès, "Grace Kelly's handbag stuffed with Robert Mitchum's jockstrap. Pretty-dirty." by Cedarmoth , 25 April 2007
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 26th May 2007 at 04:04 AM.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Quote Originally Posted by quinpus View Post
    mikeperez, if we could nominate a poster of the year, i would nominate you. your posts are ALWAYS interesting, informed and well-written.

    i wonder if the mental associations with leather goods affect our scented categorizations of them.
    Thanks quin...you're making me blush...

    I have to admit, these handbag/car interior images I described are most definitely affecting the way I'm smelling TL. I own a Coach leather satchel [Xmas gift from my man] and I also have a leather interior car...so these are day-in/day-out leather smells I'm very familiar with. Just not applied as a fragrance...so luxuriously.

    Quote Originally Posted by fredricktoo View Post
    Anyone tried Eau d' Hermes? It was formulated by a leather company (originally saddles) which makes fine expensive leather bags for men/women amongnt other things. It's the richest leather I've ever smelled.
    I have always wanted to try Eau d'Hermes but haven't. Will sniff soon - great recommendation!

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    Mike, hello from Meridian Ave. I recently tried Eau de Gloire by Parfum d'Empire and to my nose it smelled very, I mean very, similiar to Tuscan Leather. EdG is not listed as a leather fragrance per se, it does have leather in the base, but my impression of Tuscan Leather is that it really isn't a true leather fragrance either. To me it smells of tobacco and smoke.
    Meridian Avenue, huh? On the laptop at Starbucks, I bet?

    Parfum D' Empire is such a sleeper line...I have only tried a few of their stuff because its hard to find here in Miami (I got samples from an Aedes order, that's how I got to try the ones I've sniffed...). Will keep my eye out for Eau de Glorie. However I got little smoke from TL - more like a smell of tar. Unlike Japan Noir by Tom Ford which was choking-on-SMOKE-cannot-breathe on me...

    Quote Originally Posted by dimples View Post
    I've been stalking your posts just to hear your analysis on Tuscan Leather, mikeperez. Now both you and Vibert have given me some food for thought, re: leather categories. I have to go sniff these beauties again.
    I thought of you dimples this morning, when I grabbed the sample and put it on... Please resniff TL soon and post your comments...

    Quote Originally Posted by Vibert View Post
    Then, instead of the "buttery, fine" leathers, but perhaps close to them, are what I think of as the sweet fruity leathers. These include prominent notes of apricot, cherry, or plum and dry down very sweet on me.

    And, by the way, I too favor the animalic ones, along with the smoky. The leathers I characterize as "fruity" usually seem too tame to me.
    Another blogger called TL a 'fruity' leather so I expected to 'get' fruit (well...one of the listed notes is raspberry!) - but my nose got no fruit notes?? Would love to hear if others do, though...
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  11. #11

    Smile Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    I bathed myself in Tuscan Leather tonight and went out for dinner at Joe Allens. It stays close, but it is always there. Do I have to part with $160 at BG next week? TL is sublime.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    I've also a kind of "leather classification" scale that is a 3 part breakdown.

    First, I categorize "fine leather" as those which remind me of new shoes, luggage, handbags and leather coats and jackets... the most delectable of which I have enjoyed of late is "Minotaure" - Paloma Picasso. When I wore this scent years ago it was the bitter orange notes that featured heavily on my skin. Nowdays the fine leather accord has moved to the foreground. LOVE it.

    Second, I kind of throw all the less "lovely" leathers together - those that are synthetic leathers to the point they almost become "plastic" eg: "Style in Play" by Lacoste... the rather unlovely smell of highly treated/coloured leather footballs...

    Third, I categorize the soft suede scents and animalic furs. "Richard James Saville Row" has a fine suede element, and Diptyque's "L'eau D'Élide" has a delightful faun note that is SO true to its source... warm, soft and fur/suede like.
    Last edited by Sorcery of Scent; 26th May 2007 at 08:25 AM. Reason: tag error

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    I have to agree with the following Basenotes review of Eau d'Hermès, "Grace Kelly's handbag stuffed with Robert Mitchum's jockstrap. Pretty-dirty." by Cedarmoth , 25 April 2007
    I don't have any idea why Robert Mitchums jockstrap would be included and as far as dirty, Daim Blond smells like a sweaty baseball glove, in comparison, and I've worn quite a few.

    Grace Kelly's handbag I agree. It has the smell of very well made leather from only the best hides.


    --------------------------------------
    You may want to take a look at plurans review on the same page in the directory.
    Last edited by fredricktoo; 26th May 2007 at 09:00 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  14. #14

    Smile Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Quote Originally Posted by fredricktoo View Post
    I don't have any idea why Robert Mitchums jockstrap would be included and as far as dirty, Daim Blond smells like a sweaty baseball glove, in comparison, and I've worn quite a few.

    Grace Kelly's handbag I agree. It has the smell of very well made leather from only the best hides.


    --------------------------------------
    You may want to take a look at plurans review on the same page in the directory.
    It's the cumin note, some people think it smells like sweat.

  15. #15

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    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Of the third classification, Fine Leathe by Heeley is one of the finest examples. Yes indeed, it is soft buttery leather, like a fine pair of gloves; or the inside of a Longchamp folio case, beautiful, redolent of leather with a mysterious voilet. Wonderful, if a bit too "young" for me. If I were 30 again, I would wear this. As it is, I am happy cruising along in classification no. 2, with Knize Ten.
    Currently wearing: Benedictus by Excelsis

  16. #16

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    well, this thread has me thinking of leather, and was just perusing this description of "fine leather" that Joe Frances just mentioned, taken from the aedes website. sounds good.

    "The traditional treatment of leather was to perfume it with floral essences, thus softening its rich animalic darkness. Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur (Fine Leather) conjures buttery leather steeped in violet essence. The honeyed leather of mimosa complements the smoky birch tar and suede notes, while the vetiver forms a refined woody base."

    as for my experiences with leather frags, Tabac Blond remains my catnip holy grail leather scent, but I do love and consider essential, En Avion by Caron. Chanel no 19 is another leather scent that is one of my "want to keep close by forever" frags, the leather presence in this one is more delicate in my opinion. Daim Blond is wonderful too.
    I haven;t gotten to the point of classifying these into groups. I am still so enchanted with them individually as journeys unto themselves. Not sure if Tabac Blond will ever be eclipse by any other leather scent for me, though. First impression, first love kind of thing. We've got history.
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    I am doing this from memory, not bothering to resniff to be absolutely sure so some scents may be placed in the wrong category. I may edit this list when I have a chance to retry some of those mentioned. Just saying that my choices are not set in stone.

    My personal experience and classification of leather scents:
    Chypre Animalic: Avon Occur!, Estee Lauder Azuree, Fendi Donna, Halston Z-14, Trussardi Uomo, Paco Rabanne La Nuit
    Classic Woody / Soapy: Dior Jules, Aramis Aramis For Men, Dana English Leather, Fendi Uomo
    Classic Fresh: By D&G Man, Liz Claiborne Claiborne Men,
    Fine Leather Goods: Balmain Jolie Madame, Hermes Bel Ami, Guerlain Derby
    Riding Boots / Tack (Saddlery): Chanel Cuir de Russie, Creed Cuir de Russie
    Beef Jerky: Andy Taeur Lonestar Memories
    Medicinal Liniment / Raw Skins: Montale Cuir D'Arabie, Santa Maria Novella Peau D'Espagne
    Smoke (Candied or Dry): Caron Tabac Blond, Serge Lutens Cuir Mauresque, Ava Luxe Madame X, Gucci pour Homme, Guerlain Jicky, Maxim's Maxim pour Homme
    Suede: Ava Luxe Film Noir, Serge Lutens Daim Blond, Donna Karan New York, Michael Kors Michael For Men
    Last edited by moondeva; 27th May 2007 at 01:35 PM.
    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

    Tabu + Orange Blossom * Hermes Rouge + Bellodgia* Voleur du Roses+ Rose Ispahan * Rasa Extreme + Paris * Wood Coffee + Cafe Noir *

  18. #18

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    Wink Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Leather - a study in 3 parts you say?

    The best leather studied in 3 parts is:

    1. Female

    2. Leather Brazier

    3. Leather thong.

    Oh, was this a scent question? lol lol

    Kiddin'.
    The search for the perfect cologne is like a composer searching for the ultimate note.

    P.S. F' Imus...Stern is King!

  19. #19

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    I am bumping this thread because I could use the opinions of leather aficionados.
    I often see classic leather scents categorized as Spanish, Russian and English. I found a rough description in this thread http://www.basenotes.net/threads/216...=leather+types but I would like to ask if there is a defiinition of the three categories in terms of the notes that complement leather eg florals etc.
    My question comes from the fact that I am looking for a leather scent and there are several scents I would like to try but I would like to narrow down the list. For example I like Knize 10 types of leather but the leather note in Antaeus is much closer to what I am looking for. I was considering Cuir Mauresque but analogies drawn to Knize 10 by other BN kind of put me off. Parfum d' Empire Cuir Ottomane is quite good but not quite it. Montale leathers are very close to what I am looking for. Any ideas and clues on the categorization of leather scents?

  20. #20

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Great insights about leathery frags! Honestly speaking, I tend to like most of the previous categories in this study.
    Currently wearing: Eau des Baux by L'Occitane

  21. #21

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Our own Helg has a wonderful twelve-part series about leather fragrances on her Perfume Shrine blog.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  22. #22

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoRoads View Post
    Our own Helg has a wonderful twelve-part series about leather fragrances on her Perfume Shrine blog.
    Thank you, I will study it.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Wow cpk, youve resurrected this old thread and i am forced to read my words from 2 or 3 years ago. I think my take on leather has changed enormously since then... proof positive that this hobby is indeed an education of sorts too!

  24. #24

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    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Have you tried Royal English Leather by Creed? I find this one to be of the most luxurious scents I've ever worn, almost too much so. It is not edgy at all and is certainly like the "high grade buttery fine leather" that you described. An amazing fragrance experience, really.

    You may need a scepter and a standing navy, but I'd give it a shot.
    Last edited by Nicolas V; 17th January 2010 at 07:06 AM.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    GAAH! And to think I was just recently at a boutique that sold Tuscan leather! I tried Black Orchid though...and was severely impressed! loved the decomposing plumb smell! Amazingly dark and poignant!

    Also, Knize Ten is high up in my list!

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    Chanel Antaeus Equipped With A Double Whipping Of A Black Leather Jacket

  26. #26

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Thanks for the links cpk and two roads. I love leather notes on frags

  27. #27

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Just wondered if anyone has tried No. 11 by Roja Dove?

    I was in his haute parfumerie a couple of weeks ago and spent a quite wonderful afternoon exploring some beautiful fragrances guided by a very knowledgeable chap called Marcel.

    I started off with Caron Pour Homme and then got drawn into the seductive world of post-war Paris with Cravache and Bandit by Robert Piguet. I ended buying both as I couldn't choose between them. Despite the reformulation to my nose I still detect some faint and pleasant leather in Cravache. Bandit on the other hand is just plain dangerous.

    But the most outstanding fragrance I was privy to that afternoon was Roja No. 11. I believe there are 19 special creations that have no name apart from their numbers. No. 11 was simply the most incredible leather I have ever come across. Unbelievably deep and rich yet cool and comforting. I really would have a hard time describing what kind of leather it is but I was immediately reminded of the powerful smell of a vintage car. That might put some people off as it indicates that its perhaps a slightly antiquated affair. Nothing could be further from the truth. It makes a very bold statement and I was incredibly conscious of it on my skin as I left Harrods and hopped on a bus. But I couldn't stop smelling my wrist. It genuinely felt exciting to be wearing it and that I believe is the mark of a truly great fragrance.

    The disappointment is that Roja Dove's 'special' range is hugely expensive I understand and sadly completely out of my price range.

    But I regard it as the finest leather I have ever known. Exquisite.

  28. #28
    megatropolis's Avatar
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    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    I dont know what it is...My leather picks are..
    Cuir de Russie by Chanel
    Dzing
    Daim Blond
    Dior Homme
    .....I like Tuscan Leather too.....
    I think I just figured my style out....I like candy leather!!!!

  29. #29

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    After my quest in the world of leather I decided that Cuir Ottoman comes closest to my ideal leather with Cuir Mauresque a very close runner up. CM doesn't have the amazing ambiguity of CO. Agressive, old almoste petrochemical leather drenched in feminine powder. The end result keeps you wondering deep into the drydown.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Leather - a study in 3 parts

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    It's the cumin note, some people think it smells like sweat.
    I had the same impression cumin until I learned to cook with it, after which my perpective changed entirely. Now the problem: Many people have the sense it smells of dirty sweat, and to others it can be an appealing scent. To wear or not two wear frags with the cumin note?

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