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  1. #1
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    Default Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    I searched the old archives for a topic on this, and all I came up with was supermarky's thread about sour notes...well, my question is more specifically about vinegar/brine notes in scents.

    This past week (with the help of another Basenoter) I've come upon three scents that have a very distinct VINEGAR note in them: Dzonghka (by L'Artisan Parfumeur), Sienne L'Hiver (by Eau d'Italie) and Bois d'Hombrie (by Eau d'Italie).

    I am not complaining (as I mentioned in my Dzonghka reply) I like this particular note because I find the note comforting and extremely vegetal. Salty too. Like a vat of olives or pickles at a deli. Or (as Vibert mentioned) like vinegar thats been pumped through a vaporizer. A vinegar scented steam room. I can see how this might turn off certain people to the scent(s) but nonetheless...there's my crazy nose at work again.

    Let me also add - all three scents above have been created by Bertrand Duchaufour. Yes, as in, Bertrand ' CdG Avignon, CdG Kyoyo, Colonia Assoluta by AdP, Timbuktu by L'Artisan 'Duchaufour. So, WTF? Was Messr. Duchaufour on a sour kick when he created these three?

    Seriously, I love Dzonghka - therefore, I don't need to own the other 2 scents. However I can't find more comments about this note (or other frags with this note) from other Basenoters.

    Can I get a witness?
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 30th May 2007 at 09:28 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    Well, I'm not at all sure there's a conventional vinegar scent to it, but one of Diptyque's first offerings is a fragrance called "Vinaigre de Toilette". Diptyque presents it as a different type of product from their line of twelve EDTs. (And unlike all of the latter, it is unreviewed here at Basenotes.)

    Here's what Diptyque themselves say about it:
    VINAIGRE DE TOILETTE Anno 1975
    extracts of plants, woods and spices
    It revives and refreshes the body, softens and braces the skin, as a hair-rinse it softens, brightens and lightly scents the hair, it can also freshen up the air in a house

    Next time I'm in San Francisco I'll try to drop into the Diptyque shop and check it out...
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  3. #3

    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    Valentino's Vendetta certainly had an opening akin to vinegar (on my skin anyway). I just mentioned thos fragrance on a thread requesting a "tangy' fragrance. in terms of briney vegetal notes, Kenzo PH and its "fennel' note and seaweed character and l'eau d'Issey Bleue are both frags that strike me as options for gritty/earthy vegetal scents.

    I am sure that others will offer better options.. but this is my "pipe in".

    a.

    btw: I saw Eau Des Baux in your sig. rotation. I just landed a bottle of this stuff locally... and "wow".

  4. #4

    Smile Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    I find the 'maple syrup' note in Sables to be kept in check by a brined note.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    Update:

    Add to this list, New Tradition by ETRO. Wore it yesterday and it was straight up Dzonghka (I almost thought the sample tube was mislabeled) but with no incense. I'm not sure what the other notes were (a slight musk? Couldn't put my finger on it...maybe vetiver?) The reviews on BN are kinda bad, but I could easily pull this off, since to me its a gentler Dzonghka.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    Bois d'Hombrie (by Eau d'Italie) I thought was a lot boozier than Dzonkha which I thought had more incense feel to it. I haven't tried the Sienne L'Hiver. When I think of briny I think of heavy salting and spices. The salt's alkalinity tempers the vinegars acidity?

  7. #7

    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    There's a certain salty vinegary element to Bois d'Ombre in the first half of its unraveling, but then it turns more alcoholy, boozy and incensy/cedary.
    -

  8. #8

    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    Update!

    Ducked into the Diptyque boutique again yesterday, and this time I remembered to sniff their "Vinaigre de toilette." Succint description: a 50-50 mix of traditional cologne (bergamot, lavender, ...) and cider vinegar. That's not a recipe, just a description of the resulting fragrance. The very helpful staff reported that the scent has a longevity comparable to the rest of the Diptyque line.

    Since vinegar is more than a "note" -- more like a "theme" -- VdT is certainly not something I'd consider wearing as a fragrance. Nor is it intended for that use, apparently. It's marketed as more of a refreshing tonic, a rinse for the hair, etc.
    Last edited by PaulSC; 2nd September 2007 at 06:55 PM.
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  9. #9

    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    I notice, though, that the prominent "vinegar" note in Bois d'Ombrie dissipates after a few minutes, and then begins the lovely drydown of subtle spices and strong wood notes. Suffer through the initial briny tanginess of Bois d'Ombrie, trust me -- it's well worth the effort.

    This juice is some of the most "manly" stuff I've ever smelled, and both its sillage and longevity are truly SUPERB. I got a sample in a swap with Taolady recently and now can't wait to buy or swap for a bottle of my own.
    Last edited by tvlampboy; 2nd September 2007 at 09:52 PM.

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  10. #10
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    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulSC View Post
    Update!

    Ducked into the Diptyque boutique again yesterday, and this time I remembered to sniff their "Vinaigre de toilette." Succint description: a 50-50 mix of traditional cologne (bergamot, lavender, ...) and cider vinegar. That's not a recipe, just a description of the resulting fragrance. The very helpful staff reported that the scent has a longevity comparable to the rest of the Diptyque line.

    Since vinegar is more than a "note" -- more like a "theme" -- VdT is certainly not something I'd consider wearing as a fragrance. Nor is it intended for that use, apparently. It's marketed as more of a refreshing tonic, a rinse for the hair, etc.
    Sounds frightfully acidic. Perhaps you could layer it with Baime by MPG and walk around smelling like vinaigrette?

  11. #11

    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Perhaps you could layer it with Baime by MPG and walk around smelling like vinaigrette?


    (I love Baïmé, actually; quite possibly my next purchase. But I'll keep the dressing on the side thanks.)

    Edit: Oh, I see you just bought Baïmé too.
    Last edited by PaulSC; 3rd September 2007 at 06:51 PM.
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  12. #12
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    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulSC View Post


    (I love Baïmé, actually; quite possibly my next purchase. But I'll keep the dressing on the side thanks.)

    Edit: Oh, I see you just bought Baïmé too.
    Funny.

    Actually, I also have a half sample left of Chanterelle Mushroom (absolute oil) by CB I Hate Perfume. Michael (sloan_8013) gave me some, and like all of the CBIHP stuff, this is an incredible recreation of biting into a mushroom. It has a 'blue cheese' dirtiness to it, with that airy, damp earthiness to it.

    So, when I get the Baime in - I'm gonna layer it with Dzonghka and Chanterelle, for the olfactory equivalent of a salad bar at Pizza Hut.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    Funny ... I've been considering purchasing Les Exclusifs Chanel No.18 & searched for reviews.
    I came up with this one from THE SCENTED SALAMANDER & it mentioned the vinegar note, which I had never thought of before:

    "No 18 stands for 18, Place Vendôme, the address of the Chanel flagship jewelry store. It is based on ambrette seed (Hibiscus Abelmoschus) which has musky and ambery nuances as well as wine-like or brandy-like overtones. The beginning of the perfume makes me think of the initial stage of Hiris by Hermès which also contains iris and ambrette seed.The perfume opens on a slightly boozy and woody accord with unpredictable twists and turns. It is followed by a sumptious excursion into iris and feels as if one were suddenly gliding and skating on a frozen pond of icy and satiny orris sensations. The main accord of ambrette seed accented by iris is unusual gaining on in intensity overtime to the point of feeling a bit astringent. For some people it evokes the domestic sight of a jar of pickles.
    One could certainly interpret the scent as having vinegar nuances. It is however more of a complex sensation juxtaposing a strongly aromatic vinegar (one can think of the old-fashioned scented vinegars of yore) with soft ivory-beige buttery undertones, hints of black rubber and secret fruity traces. It dries down to a beautiful unconventional woody accord that feels a bit raw and naked. The bottom note sheds the harsher nuances of the perfume and is delicately and subtly scented and quite seductive with a delicious understated earthy vanillic accord with balmy overtones. This is reported to be Jacques Polge's personal favorite amongst the new Les Exclusifs."
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  14. #14

    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    So, when I get the Baime in - I'm gonna layer it with Dzonghka and Chanterelle, for the olfactory equivalent of a salad bar at Pizza Hut.

    now THAT'S what I call a "fruit salad"!

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    Quote Originally Posted by Sudsy View Post
    Funny ... I've been considering purchasing Les Exclusifs Chanel No.18 & searched for reviews.
    I came up with this one from THE SCENTED SALAMANDER & it mentioned the vinegar note, which I had never thought of before:

    "No 18 stands for 18, Place Vendôme, the address of the Chanel flagship jewelry store. It is based on ambrette seed (Hibiscus Abelmoschus) which has musky and ambery nuances as well as wine-like or brandy-like overtones. The beginning of the perfume makes me think of the initial stage of Hiris by Hermès which also contains iris and ambrette seed.The perfume opens on a slightly boozy and woody accord with unpredictable twists and turns. It is followed by a sumptious excursion into iris and feels as if one were suddenly gliding and skating on a frozen pond of icy and satiny orris sensations. The main accord of ambrette seed accented by iris is unusual gaining on in intensity overtime to the point of feeling a bit astringent. For some people it evokes the domestic sight of a jar of pickles.
    One could certainly interpret the scent as having vinegar nuances. It is however more of a complex sensation juxtaposing a strongly aromatic vinegar (one can think of the old-fashioned scented vinegars of yore) with soft ivory-beige buttery undertones, hints of black rubber and secret fruity traces. It dries down to a beautiful unconventional woody accord that feels a bit raw and naked. The bottom note sheds the harsher nuances of the perfume and is delicately and subtly scented and quite seductive with a delicious understated earthy vanillic accord with balmy overtones. This is reported to be Jacques Polge's personal favorite amongst the new Les Exclusifs."
    I remember reading this also Sudsy - but I didn't sniff No. 18 when I was at the Chanel boutique (I consciously avoid scents with ambrette seed, it tends to get wacky on my skin). However the above description sounds exactly what I was trying to describe.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    Mike, there's a lady selling splits of No.18 on the Perfume Posse message board if you're interested.
    I believe she wants $28.00 for 1 oz of the juice & $7.00 to cover shipping/bottle, etc. within the USA.
    I was going to slurge, but my vehicle is on the fritz ... there goes any excess $$$!
    Beauty is an ecstasy; it is as simple as hunger. There is really nothing to be said about it. It is like the perfume of a rose: you can smell it and that is all. W.SOMERSET MAUGHAM

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Vinegar / brine notes in scents

    Quote Originally Posted by Sudsy View Post
    Mike, there's a lady selling splits of No.18 on the Perfume Posse message board if you're interested.
    I believe she wants $28.00 for 1 oz of the juice & $7.00 to cover shipping/bottle, etc. within the USA.
    I was going to slurge, but my vehicle is on the fritz ... there goes any excess $$$!
    Thanks Suds. I'll pass too...broke my piggy bank with my latest MPG bottles I scored.

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