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  1. #1

    Lightbulb Classic Citrus Attack

    Ah, citrus fragrances...I am in mood for expanding my citrus/fresh fragrance collection, and the most recent addition to my wardrobe has been Chanel pour monsieur (vintage) which I find to be a simple, understated yet addictive composition of citrus, moss and vetiver.

    Specifically, I am interested in the following classic fragrances:

    Chanel PM Concentree
    Armani Eau pour homme
    Dior Eau Sauvage
    Monsieur De Givenchy
    YSL pour Homme
    Guerlain Habit Rouge EDC
    Eau De Rochas
    Signoricci (1965)

    I tried some of these a while ago, but have "forgotten" what they smell like. Its good that they are reasonably priced on the 'net, and I will probably opt for a large blind buy order in this case (3-4 fragrances). Having said that, I would prefer to have a minimum of similar fragrances in the blind buy order so I turn to fellow basenoters for recommendations from the aforementioned list.

    Thanks!
    -

  2. #2

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    I own the following:

    the two creamy citruses, Chanel PM Concentree and Guerlain Habit Rouge EDC
    a woody citrus, Armani Eau pour homme
    and a herbal citrus, Dior Eau Sauvage.

    PMC is really creamy, like french vanilla icecream, and has sweet spices like nutmeg, dries down to a vanillin note, but remarkably on me at least the citrus hangs around the whole time, it just moves to the background as it dries down. Also has a powdery feel.

    HR EDC is a bit kinkier and dirtier, the vanilla is there from the beginning, along with lemon, and is even a bit more powdery than PMC, thanks to the Guerlinade note.

    Armani is probably the cleanest, with a lovely woody (sandalwood?) drydown. It's elegant, but sharper, not as smooth.

    Eau Sauvage is the freshest on the topnotes, but not necessarily the cleanest, on some the herbal notes can comes out strong, on me I like to wear it to bed.

    The creamy two have the best longevity on me.

    I would also regard YSL pour Homme as a herbal citrus, like ES, it can get very herbal and a bit like BO.

    Ged
    Top 10 (not in order): Dunhill 1934, Dunhill Edition, Terre d'Hermes, Rive Gauche, Habit Rouge, Guerlain Vetiver, Knize Ten, Bois du Portugal, Vintage Tabarome, Green Irish Tweed

    Summer Rotation: GIT, Aventus, Erolfa, Vetiver 1948, Guerlain Vetiver, Malle VE, Terre d'Hermes, Bvlgari PH, Bvlgari Acqua, Habit Rouge EDC and Sport, ADP Colonia Assoluta, Chanel PMC, Dunhill Edition, Eau Sauvage, TF Azure Lime

  3. #3

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    I have Habit Rouge and Eau Sauvage.

    Personally I think Habit Rouge is a bit overrated (I have the EDC). Its nice, easy to wear and very distinct though.

    Eau Sauvage is incredible though. Pity about its poor longevity though.

  4. #4
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    Pour Monsieur's basically a straight chypre. Big, primo oakmoss in the vintage. Smells incredible. No surprise they stopped making it.

    PM Concentree and Habit Rouge are orientals so you might not want those in your climate this time of year.

    Eau de Rochas Homme's as fine a citrus chypre as there is. Zesty, uplifting with a modified woody/oakmoss drydown. For reference, it's more resolutely masculine than Eau Sauvage (more floral) which everyone should own (vintage packaging). Eau Sauvage gives me much better longevity than most citruses. It's an outstanding fragrance in all respects. Even has a slightly animalic base. I stockpiled a few bottles of both Eau Sauvage and EdRH. Armani Eau Pour Homme is rich, virile, mossy, harder notes (hard as in not soft), prominent coriander, not all that interesting but it smells damn good. I used to wear it in massive quantities when I lived in the desert. I remember YSL Homme wearing pretty retro - herbal, no sweetness, which worked well in the Texas heat.
    Last edited by pluran; 3rd June 2007 at 08:48 AM. Reason: oakmoss

  5. #5

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    That's a good group that you've chosen there. I'm not very good at comparing scents--they always smell so different from each other. I would say the standout in the group is Eau de Rochas in that it presents the most pristine version of citrus of all of them. It is light, sharp, clean, incredibly pure. To my nose the greens in EdR that the most subordinate roll of all the scents you list. it's a beauty.

    The Armani Eau is my favorite Armani. The Eau in the name is a misnomer IMO. It is a complete, fully developing traditional scent with an excellent citrus opening as far as I'm concerned.

    Eau Sauvage is my favorite, but that is probably because of nostalgia--I've been wearing it off and on since 1966 and I find it's still one I love to reach for. It is citrus / green and the fantastic citrus opening is gone is gone in a flash. it settles down to an extremely nice wood (vetiver, patchouli, sandal) skin scent that lasts 3-6 hours on my skin. Nothing dramatic but just plain elegant. In the old days I believe there was a little more to it than the present version, but I could be wrong about that and I still like it.

    Monsieur de Givenchy is a beautiful scent--I've tested it several times over the years and always like it but I always like Eau Sauvage better. I don't have any pratical experience wearing it.

    YSL might be the least refined of the ones you've cited. It's pretty 80s but I like it especially for its green. I find it very wearable with great longevity, but then I wear it for the green.

    I dislike Habit Rouge--on my skin it is a vanilla cluster bomb.

    I'm not sure which of the Signoricci's are which, but I believe that the 65 version is very strong on the greens in the opening. Another one that I almost do not consider a citrus.

    I've no experience with the concentree version of PM, but the regular version is a beautiful citrus / mix scent.

  6. #6

    Wink Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    Classic Armani Eau pour homme

  7. #7

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    I know all of these well, except the Signoricci, of which I only had the old version (former S-2). S-1 seems to be gone for good, and was definitely not a citrus but a rather herbal-fresh fragrance. As pluran has indicated, Habit Rouge is (a woody) oriental. It really stands a little apart from the rest.
    Chanel PMC is excellent, but I have a slight preference for the older Chanel (sans C) even though it isn't lasting as well. I notice that Osmoz has classified it as an oriental too.YSL p Homme is the only real power citrus among the lot (1971). It gives you lemon all day, but that would of course not be possible without those herbs and other ingredients (of which the BN pyramid shows too few). ED Rochas: the masculine version (1993, youngest of the lot) is even better than the earlier feminine EDR (70) I believe - hesperidé perfection! And M Givenchy is the most uplifting one for me, fresh splendour without being lemony.
    If you're going back to the high tide of citrussy colognes which last, you may want to include Moustache for sampling. But then, it isn't really possible to recommend anything based solely on ones own taste. If I was at that starting point, I would probably also include the 'best of'' English limes, or give my Armani for it.
    Last edited by narcus; 2nd June 2007 at 09:12 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    Thanks for all the info so far!

    As Narcus mentioned, there are two version of Eau De Rochas (1970 and 1993). Isn't the 1970s version the one which is getting all the laurels here ? And there seems to be a pour femme/pour homme confusion with this one too.
    -

  9. #9

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Thanks for all the info so far!

    As Narcus mentioned, there are two version of Eau De Rochas (1970 and 1993). Isn't the 1970s version the one which is getting all the laurels here ? And there seems to be a pour femme/pour homme confusion with this one too.
    My laurals were definitely for the 1993 Eau de Rochas. There should be no confusion between the masculine and feminine versions. The masculine is in the rectangular rock-glass bottle with a grey plastic cap and with "pour homme" clearly labeled, and the feminine is in a round bottle with a crystalline top.
    Last edited by foetidus; 3rd June 2007 at 12:44 AM. Reason: added thoughts

  10. #10

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack


    Foetidus, with his usual and admirable attention to detail, is absolutely correct. There's no 1970s male version. Eau de Rochas was released in 1970 as a women's fragrance and was modeled on the good old-fashioned eau fraîche concept but with the innovation of diffusive jasmine heart note and a solid chypre base inspired by Eau Sauvage. Eau de Rochas Pour Homme was released in 1993 as, obviously, a men's fragrance.

    The confusion occurs as it does every now and then on the Male Fragrance Discussion board because of a certain laziness in describing fragrances by their correct names. If one sees Eau de Rochas and Eau de Rochas Pour Homme side by side, one should immediately think women's and men's versions, but since there is a tendency not to place Pour Homme before many fragrance names, there is also the concommitant tendency to miss a basic distinction that is fundamental to modern perfumery. This confusion has occurred numerous time with Opium and Opium Pour Homme.

    scentemental
    Last edited by scentemental; 3rd June 2007 at 01:01 AM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    Just to tell ya that you might want to try Yardley's Fine English Cologne, i mean if you like classic citrus scents, you will like this one.

    So what did you get from your list? or what are you going to get?

  12. #12

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    I know this one doesn't exactly fit in the classic citrus realm but Versace L'homme is amazing.
    It has been compared next to Armani Eau Pour Homme at times so I thought I would at least mention it.
    Last edited by Jock_With_Scents; 3rd June 2007 at 01:18 AM.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    Quote Originally Posted by castorpollux View Post
    So what did you get from your list? or what are you going to get?
    So far, Eau de Rochas pour homme, Eau Sauvage, Signoricci and M. d. Givenchy are the ones which will probably make my list. I might have smelled some or all of these before in my non-Basenotes life, and I am sure like what happened with Kouros, Polo Green, and Van Cleef (to mention a few) my comatose scent memory will surely be awakened by some of these.

    Just to throw another one into the mix...I have been reading good things about Pierre Bourdon's little known work for Gianfranco Ferre: Bergamotto Marino. Its not listed at Basenotes, but Marlen/Scenteur7 favorably reviewed it at http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/b...6/1824738.html . It looks like Ebay is the only place to find this supposed gem. Any comments on this one ?
    Last edited by zztopp; 3rd June 2007 at 02:07 AM. Reason: typo
    -

  14. #14

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack


    zz,


    Eau de Rochas Pour Homme, Aramani Eau Pour Homme, and Eau Sauvage are extraordinarily good citrus scents. I have worn them over many summers. I would also recommend the truest of true citrus fragrances in many ways, Miller Harris Citron Citron (EDT or EDP).

    You might also want to consider the following:

    Adolfo Dominguez Vetiver Hombre
    Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien EDT
    Annick Goutal Eau du Sud
    Annick Goutal Hadrien Absolu EDP
    Annick Goutal Les Nuits d’Hadrien EDP
    Balmain Monsieur Balmain
    Borsari Acqua Classica
    Caron Eaux de Caron Forte
    Caron Eaux de Caron Fraîche
    Caron Eaux de Caron Pure
    Caswell Massey Lime
    Caswell Massey Verbena
    Clinque Happy for Men
    Czech & Speake Citrus Paradisi
    Floris Limes
    L’Occitane Verveine
    Loewe Pour Homme
    Luciano Soprani Just Free
    Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Eau Pour Le Jeune Homme
    Parfums de Nicolaï Balle de Match Eau de Sport
    Parfums de Nicolaï Cologne Sologne
    Rochas Reflets d’Eau Rochas Homme
    Tova Borgnine Tova for Men

    scentemental

    P.S. I make it a matter of principle to try anything and everything by Pierre Bourdon.


    Last edited by scentemental; 3rd June 2007 at 02:04 AM.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    Partly because of this thread, I went out and bought Eau De Rochas pour Homme today, and all I can say is that it is very nice. There's a lemon/lime thing going on on top, which dries down very elegant and nicely. The feel of the fragrance seems to remind me of Armani PH.

    I'm for sure going to be adding this one to my daily rotation.
    Last edited by gimpy; 3rd June 2007 at 02:44 AM.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    Scentemental, thanks for the list and clearing up the E.d.Rochas confusion. Gimpy, glad this dicussion could (positively) influence your blind buy decision - I will be taking the plunge after the weekend too!
    -

  17. #17

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    Quote Originally Posted by scentemental View Post


    You might also want to consider the following:

    P.S. I make it a matter of principle to try anything and everything by Pierre Bourdon.


    You have mentioned some of my all-time favorites there (among them vetiver hombre and loewePH, and i wholly agree on the P. Bourdon rec.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    Quote Originally Posted by castorpollux View Post
    You have mentioned some of my all-time favorites there (among them vetiver hombre and loewePH, and i wholly agree on the P. Bourdon rec.

    Glad to hear I am in good company.

  19. #19
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    Not that it matters but my bottles are all named Eau de Rochas Homme w/o the Pour.



    Seems this is the original

    Last edited by pluran; 3rd June 2007 at 03:32 AM. Reason: V20GMid

  20. #20

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Not that it matters but my bottles are all named Eau de Rochas Homme w/o the Pour.



    Seems this is the original


    Very interesting pluran. You know I just noticed this for the first time. I just checked my numerous back up bottles, and I have both the new packaging and the old packaging.

    The old packaging is the image immediately above as you correctly note. Then new packaging does indeed have the word Pour missing and is a little more modernized with silver lettering (as is the bottle) instead of black lettering.

    Attachment 172

    I have been using both for years now it seems without realizing; although, come to think of it, I had noticed the bottles and boxes where slightly modernized. I did not notice, however, that they had dropped the "Pour". There appears to be no reformulation.

    Thanks for pointing this out.

    scentemental

    P.S. "Oh", he says pointing out the obvious, "the old bottles a translucent plastic top".

    Last edited by scentemental; 8th October 2007 at 03:10 PM.

  21. #21
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    Like that Minotaurish font used for Homme on the original. The EdRH is a hell of a flacon. They look similar other than the cap.
    Last edited by pluran; 3rd June 2007 at 04:06 AM. Reason: V20GMid
    It's not getting what you want -- it's wanting what you've got.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack


    Yes, indeed the Homme is rather a "Minotaurish" font style. Excellent observation and description.

    Hell of a flacon. Hell of a fragrance. By far my top citrus, along with Miller Harris Citron Citron, and one of my top five fragrances of the many I've tried over a lifetime. That's how much I like this fragrance and how much I admire it.





    Last edited by scentemental; 3rd June 2007 at 04:22 AM.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Classic Citrus Attack

    I have always particularly liked citrus scents and have come to realise how hard they are to make well. For instance, I'm really disappointed when they become sweet, powdery, or leathery. I much prefer when they preserve that original citrus blast I keep coming back to Monsieur Balmain and P de Nicolai's Balle de Match--both really refreshing. I also really like Frederic Malle's Gigarrade Concentree which has a kind of dirty, sexy drydown while remaining citrusy. I have also recently discovered Agrumi Amari di Sicilia by Bois 1921--also very fresh and elegant.

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