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  1. #1
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    Quarry's Avatar
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    Default >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    For newcomers, here's the lowdown on this monthly online event:
    Every member, any gender, novice or otherwise, is invited to apply a fragrance related to the theme of the month (listed below) and share your thoughts on the first Saturday of the month. This isn't a mandatory assignment. It's just for fun. Because not everyone logs in on weekends, you're encouraged to continue to add comments within the themed thread on subsequent days. If you don't join us for this month's discussion, please look ahead at the tentative lineup and join in at a later date.
    January ~ Oriental
    February ~ Animalic

    (civet-, castoreum-, leather-, or musk-influenced scents)

    March ~ Chypre
    April ~ Floral
    May ~ Fruity
    June ~ Citrus
    July ~ Green
    August ~ Fresh or aquatic
    September ~ Fougere

    ("fern like;" lavender + woods + coumarin + geranium + oakmoss)

    October ~ Ambery
    November ~ Spicy
    December ~ Gourmand
    See previous SnS discussions:
    January 6, 2007 ~ Orientals
    February 3, 2007 ~ Animalics
    March 2, 2007 ~ Chypres
    April 14, 2007 ~ Florals
    May 4, 2007 ~ Fruity
    [For the months of June and July 2007, regular Basenotes was offline and supporters had access to an abbreviated site. We discussed, respectively, aquatics and greens, but those threads are no longer accessible.]

    Quote Originally Posted by moondeva View Post
    FOLLOWING ARE SOME SUGGESTIONS FOR FOUGERES FROM MOONDEVA
    Sarah Jessica Parker's new release Covet is a modern take on the fougere genre so this would be a perfect opportunity for those not used to the type of fragrance to discover it...
    Other worthwhile fougeres include:
    Penhaligons Victorian Posy
    Crown Perfumery Crown Fougere
    Penhaligons English Fern
    L'Artisan Fou d'Absinthe
    Guerlain Jicky
    Creed Epicea
    Creed Orange Spice
    Creed Royal Water
    Yardley English Lavander
    Pierre Cardin Bleu Marine
    Annick Goutal Eau de Lavande
    Acqua di Parma Colonia

    Penhaligons Racquets Formula
    Dior Eau Sauvage
    Shulton Old Spice
    Ralph Lauren Safari for Men
    Givenchy Xeryus Rouge (very wearable by women)
    Chanel Antaeus
    Dana Canoe
    Sean Jean Unforgivable
    Aramis by Aramis
    Joop! Jump
    Narciso Rodriguez for Him
    Alfred Sung Hei
    Azzaro pour homme
    Cerruti Cerruti pour Homme (1990 / 2007)
    Faberge Brut Original
    Givenchy Xeryus
    Paco Rabanne Paco Rabanne for Men
    Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme
    Maxim's pour homme
    Halston Z-14
    YSL Kouros
    YSL Kouros Fraicher
    YSL Live Jazz
    YSL Rive Gauche
    Calvin Klein Eternity for Men
    Lancome Sagamore
    Aramis Etruscan
    Cartier Pasha
    Paco Rabanne XS pour Lui

    Last edited by Quarry; 31st August 2007 at 12:41 PM.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  2. #2

    TaoLady's Avatar
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    (Gotta tell you how much I LUVLUVLUV yer new Avatar, Quarry. Shameless hussy!!)

    I am all set - thanks to KBE who sent me a bunch of guys' frags including Ralph Lauren Safari for Men which nestles nicely into the fougere category!!
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  3. #3
    BN better than ever
    Quarry's Avatar
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    I think we could power the nation on your enthusiasm, Taolady.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  4. #4

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    *searches for something fougere* *nicks some live jazz*

    hmmm think this one works better at a long distance... or maybe it just doesnt work on me... when other ppl wear it, it smells a bit sweeter... or maybe just less spicy

  5. #5

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    Will wear Antaeus to sleep. I bet it would blend beautifully with a rose soliflore.

  6. #6

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    Not sure if SL Un Bois Sépia can be counted as a fougere, but it has wood notes and oakmoss. I wear it today because it says autumn to me, it's a scent equivalent for a tweed coat (which I don't have).
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  7. #7

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    I wear Penhaligon's English Fern. My son let me use some of his big sample.
    Some books are undeservedly forgotten, none are undeservedly remembered - W.H. Auden

  8. #8

    TaoLady's Avatar
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    Like I said, thanx to KBE's generosity in spreading around samples I am smoldering in the most excellent Safari for Men by Ralphie of the Lauren for today's fougere SnS

    Top Notes
    * Eucalyptus, Bergamot.,
    Middle Notes
    * Cedar Leaf, Basil, Cinnamon, Thyme, Lavender, Geranium.,
    Base Notes
    * Oakmoss, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Leather, Vetiver

    PurpleBird7 likes this for women and so do I. It's fresh and ferny/herby and great for these dog days of summer. Together with the lavender and the "yook" (tha's what we call eucalyptus in the flower shop!) it has a leathery, almost fresh-sweat masculine presence which is nice company for a live-alone lady!!
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  9. #9
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    Good morning ladies and gentleman ((stretching and yawning!!))

    It's Narciso Rodriguez for Him - for me.

    This is getting lots of love here on Basenotes on the Mens boards - if you haven't had a chance to sniff this yet, please do next time you're at Saks (it's exclusive there). Those who like Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene, Xeryus by Givenchy or Rive Gauche Pour Homme by YSL will find a nice modern-day-twist in NRFH. Francis Kurkdjian has done it once again!

  10. #10

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    Is a frag with the following notes part of the FOUGE catagory for today??:
    Beauty is an ecstasy; it is as simple as hunger. There is really nothing to be said about it. It is like the perfume of a rose: you can smell it and that is all. W.SOMERSET MAUGHAM

  11. #11

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    Yes, indeed I do like men's Safari.
    I know some of you younger people think this smells like "grandpa" but if it does, it is only because it is a classic scent that got a whole generation started on fougeres.

    I only have one fougere at my disposal this morning, and that is Madini's Shadow. Like most of their oil-based parfums, it starts off strong and soapy and must settle down for awhile on the skin before it reveals its true character. It is listed as having "smoky and leathery notes over a green fougere base," but I smell lavender, citrus, and herbs over patchouli. This smells like a classic men's cologne base, but it is attractive on women, too. The patchouli makes work exceptionally well on me.

    Another fougere I enjoyed recently was Ayala Moriel's l'Herbe Rouge, with notes of juniper berry, orange, lavender, lemongrass, carnation, oak moss, hay, and vetiver . This one actually smelled better than Jicky on me (oh, blasphemy, I know) because it was zingier and more outdoorsy. It did, however, lack the leather note that I love about Jicky.




  12. #12

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    Hi Sudsy, it might! Just depends on the balance of the notes and the proportions of the citrucy, herbal and mossy elements. A classic fougere HAS to be herbal!

  13. #13

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    Can i talk about Dioressense? I've always thought it was more of a Fourgère than a Floral-Chypre.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    I'm hauling out the ol' reliable Jicky edt -- a soft cloud of lavender, animal odors and that lovely Guerlain base that comforts like an old blanket.

    Some frags I'll spray on a pillowcase, on my clothes, into the air or on my hair, but Jicky is purely for skin. And my skin loves Jicky.

    The note pyramid here at basenotes doesn't list lavender. Hmmm. Curious.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  15. #15

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    I tracked down Covet and applied it liberally to my arm.
    Initially I got a burst of something sharp and green, and a touch medicinal. The notes are, apparently, wet greens, geranium leaves, Sicilian lemon, lavender, chocolate, honeysuckle, magnolia, muguet (lily of the valley), musk, vetiver, bois de cashmere, teakwood and amber. I didn't really get anything floral, though the medicinal edge may have been the geranium jiving with the vetiver.
    After a while it transformed into a musky, vanillic woodsy scent, very close to the skin, and pleasant. As I was busting through Oxford Street, nipping into shops and avoiding getting shoulder-barged by other shoppers, I didn't get chance to fully trace its development.
    I don't think it's one for me but it's not bad. I'm not mad on the opening, but the dry down is very nice.

  16. #16

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    Go for it, castorpollux. I suppose it would be interesting for everybody to see your perceptions of Dioressense, I am not familiar with it.

    My SotD is L'Artisan Parfumeur Fou d'Absinthe (2006) with Olivia Giacobetti as a nose -- and who I believe blended it as a joke! -- and the notes of:
    Top: Absinthe, star anise, angelica, blackcurrant buds;
    Heart: pepper, clove, nutmeg, ginger, patchouli;
    Base: pine needles, cistus, fir balsam.

    It is odd, and very very bitter in the beginning. It is sharp, a bit medicinal, and definitely masculine. Green and herbal for the first 30 minutes, I would even say "mean'n'green", lacking citrus notes or honey to counterbalance Artemisia Vulgaris' distinctive bitterness! (For once i thought it would be another Aromatics Elixir or Knowing which I both like a lot, but it is not!)

    After that the change of tonality starts: too early for me to be PMSing, but I think the whole PMS thing is like that -- from hot to cold in no time! Licorice, a lot of black pepper, cloves, perhaps, cardamom and somewhat smokey patchouli should be warm by definition, but they are having "out of the freezer" effect on my skin instead giving me chills. The drydown is not present in this scent, rather, it is incorporated into the middle notes too: it is creating the impression of the deep pine forest in the middle of the blazingly hot day, with soft needles under my feet and sweat streaming down my upper lip, and the gazillions of mosquitoes buzzing around. It would "sound" better with some berries or musk, or a bit more of further developing 'blackcurrant" theme from the top, although I am not much of a fan of either.

    The longevity is not bad (and then everything lasts on me!), and Mr.Twolf refused to test it on his skin, he said it smells of "the witch who robbed Halloween of its candy corn", whatever he means by it, but there are no molded woods in it!

    If I had a bottle of it, I would have got rid of it very fast. Do not like, not me, will not crave. Thanks!
    Last edited by Twolf; 2nd September 2007 at 04:34 AM.

  17. #17

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    As I said earlier, I fear I may be pushing the envelope dedsignating at least my fragrances for today/tonight as "fougere," though I think both my choices work. Please advise, more knowledgeable noses?!?

    SoTD: Del Rae's Eau Illuminee. Notes include bergamot, basil, lavender, wild aromatic herbs, vanilla and tonka.

    I ADORE this one, even though it doesn't get lots of love here on Basenotes. It was my splurge/birthday scent to myself last year, and I think it is one of the best warm, humid weather frags around. It is indeed a sparkling, warm weather fragrance, and also includes just a touch of rose in addition to the notes listed, to keep it even more interesting. While I can see how the creators intended it to be a scent reminiscent of San Francisco, to me, EI is also reminiscent of a classic European flower and herb garden (keep in mind I'm a Yank, and may be clueless, but I hope not!). Eau Illuminee was one of the fragrances (like Chanel's Coco) that I tested because it sounded intriguing, and had a gut-deep "YES!" response to.


    SoTE: L'Occitane's L'Eau d'Occitane. Notes from the L'Occitane web site are lavender, blended with the peppery, nutmeg scent of burnt wood.

    This is a new one from L'Occitane, and after recent test-fest at one of their stores, I find I can really only wear their men's scents, so far. Love the woody/spicy notes. This one is very easy to wear, and I find it to be completely unisex... Can see it gracing me at work, or out for the evening. A gentle scent, very relaxed.

    Two winners!
    It’s thought that people who hope too much will just waste their life away and never get down to doing any real work. They’re confusing Hope with Wish, its lazy cousin... When Wish whispers, “Something is just around the corner,” what comes or not is never what was wished for. When Hope whispers “Something is just around the corner,” something always is. -- Charlie Elberson

    My sale thread has some of my underappreciated fragrances looking for a good, new home...

  18. #18

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    Great! so here i go then:

    Dioressence
    This review is for the new reformulation of it:
    A very green, somewhat spicy and very unisex (if you can get past the top notes) fragrance that shines with contemporary coolness yet still adding a little of old world class to the mix. Contrary to what standard knowledge might say, I get more of a fourgère type of fragrance than a straight-up chypre. Maybe it’s the “new oakmoss” thing. I think it was called a chypre so chypre and dioressence fans wouldn’t feel “cheated” from the start.
    The very fresh, intensely dry but flowery opening makes you wonder what has happened to those petals: they seem mixed with hay, wild grass and twigs, all moving in all directions, and the dryness of it all makes you feel that the flowers (among them a waxy violet) are drying up on your skin in real time, right there on your wrist.
    After the rather rocambolesque opening, the scent settles quickly into the longest green pasture of unisex nature, combined with a pond-like air of freshness that says wet, grassy yet rocky with lots of fall winds, cool yet comfortable, with just a very soft hint of sweet. It’s intensely violet-colored geraniums, hidden in between intensely green shrubs and wet earth (after that very dry opening) and with an added dash of rosemary and even juniper. I would assume that if we layer it with lavender it would fit very comfortably there.
    The whole composition of this new EdT, is rather short-lasting and you’ll need to reapply during the day. Cool sillage. The drydown turns back to dry again, with what seems to be a very balanced marriage of patchouli and cinnamon with hints of clover. But it doesn’t really feel too spicy as the overall green feel of it all never really ceases to exist. I can see very practical, nature-loving people wearing this scent. It can feel nostalgic at times. Longing might fit as well.
    I like this EDT a lot. But this needs to exist in at least EDP in this new incarnation. An extrait would be even more attractive of course, like a stormy afternoon in the country.

    all in all, .

  19. #19
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    We have some green soaps in our glorious shower (a fern bar and a rosemary bar), and after being in their company, I felt inclined to follow with some Demeter Wet Garden. You know, I'd never thought of Wet Garden as a fougere before, but it really has the feel--dry, green, with a carnation-like scent I could pretend is geranium.

    Those of you who have some around, please tell me what you think.
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  20. #20

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    Brut by Faberge. A classic fougere. The key to Brut is all in the application. Apply too little and you can barely smell it. Apply too much and you smell like a walking deodorant stick. Brut original is very clean, fresh, and slightly woody and I prefer its timeless classic smell and feel to the ocean of fresh acquatics dominating designer fragrance counters these days. I can't tell you how many years it's been since I wore a Brut product but I'm old enough to remember the Joe Namath ads. With Brut, my olfactory selective attention focuses on the lavender/anise in the top and vetiver/oakmoss in the base. My favorite note is the anise, it's amazing. Overall, Brut is very well blended, overtly masculine, and a true bargain. Sure there are other fougeres I could've worn (Antaeus, Xeryus Rouge, etc.), but they would not have been as much fun to wear nor given me nostalgic trip back to my childhood. Like Old Spice, Brut is a timeless classic comfort scent that I intend on keeping in my wardrobe for years to come.

  21. #21

    TaoLady's Avatar
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    My Boss HATED Safari for Men ... so I came home and sulked and thought about changing jobs (not really) and plunged into more of the lovely "barbershop" lavender/bergamot "homme du monde" juice....so THERE.
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  22. #22
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    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    Your boss...The nerve! hrumph..
    Our job is to live joyfully in this world of sorrows--Joseph Campbell

  23. #23

    Default Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, Sept. 1 >>>>FOUGERE

    I had a sample of Jicky EDT sitting around which - gasp - I believe I never tried! ...So I tried it yesterday and again this morning. It sits very close to my skin and is very "herbal" in a multifaceted way on me. It is very different than what I was expecting. I definitely need to spend more time with this...

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