Jean Claude Ellena comes to mind immediately.
Thread: Favourite Perfumers?
You see lots of members asking for reccomendations from a particular fragrance house (which creed, l'artisan, lutens, malle should I buy next? etc).
I was just wondering how many of you have particular perfumers that you are drawn to, and try fragrances developed by them because of that. Or would you be more inclined to try other frgarances from that particular house?...or maybe both?
I'm on an Olivia Giacobetti mission at the moment, since tried and bought Tea for Two (might creep up to my no.1 spot before long!). I also have a great admiration for Dzing! and Philosykos (although I've slightly given up on this due to it's poor longevity). I'm awaiting an Idole sample, and aim to try Passage d'Enfer, Fou d'Absinthe and Mandarine Tout Simplement in the near future.
Jean Claude Ellena comes to mind immediately.
Ditto on Jean Claude.
Will add my other faves to the list:
Ernest Beaux - Chanel's nose who created Cuir de Russie, Bois des Iles, No 22
Jacques Guerlain - Guerlain master who created Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Apres L'Ondee, Sous le Vent
Christopher Sheldrake - of Serge Lutens fame
Favourite houses other than Chanel, Guerlain and SL are:
- Frederic Malle
Last edited by dimples; 6th September 2007 at 04:45 PM. Reason: added houses
I'm simplifying my life. For Sale Thread (some niche, some designer):
I am interested in trying anything by Annick Menardo, who is responsible for creating two of my top favorites:
- Boucheron Jaïpur Homme
- Bulgari Black.
Annick Menardo is the Nose for a long list of fragrances marketed to both men and women, but at this time her creations that I am most familiar with or interested in are:
- Christian Dior Bois d'Argent
- Guerlain Bois d'Armenie
- Le Labo Patchouli 24
- Lolita Lempicka au Masculin
- Yves Saint Laurent Body Kouros
- Givenchy Xeryus Rouge
- Boss Bottled
- Céline pour Homme (I have not yet tried)
- Kenzo Time for Peace for Him (I have not yet tried)
Annick Menardo's fragrances seem to be very easy and rewarding for me to wear, and their sillage always seems to be just right. It seems that I always enjoy wearing her fragrances.
Jacques Guerlain (I call him St.Jacques)
Last edited by tigrushka; 8th September 2007 at 05:51 AM. Reason: added AG and JP... and JK...
"Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
EnvYuS My Wardrobe
Pierre Guillaume is one of my favourites at the moment. Mustn't forget Chris Sheldrake though.
I'll second the praise for everyone mentioned so far. Another whom I particular admire is John Stephen, who composed No. 88*, Citrus Paradisi (aka Grapefruit), Cuba, and other fragrances for Czech & Speake.
*Edit: I've evidently misattributed No. 88 to Stephens, repeating an error from the Basenotes Directory. Shirley Brody deserves credit for it. See posts by Scentemental and zztopp below (thanks guys!)
Further edit, August 2009, for the record: It was eventually confirmed, based on word from John Stephen himself, that he was the one responsible for composing #88.
Last edited by PaulSC; 20th August 2009 at 07:31 PM.
of course Jacque Polge (Coco, Antaeus, Egoiste etc.)
Francis Kurkdrijan (Le Male, Dior's Eau Noir, N. Rodriguez for her, Lanvin's Rumeur)
M. Roucel (Iris silver mist, L'instant, Musc Ravageur)
J.C. Ellena (L'eau d'hiver, Bigarade, Bois Farine)
Dominique Ropion (Vetiver extraordinaire, Yasatis, Lalique le parfum, Carnal flower)
J. Cavallier (Opium pour homme, M7, Nu, Rive gauche pour homme)
"PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
Real beauty: 1) F. Malle 1-19 2) Chanel Bel Respiro 3) TF Noir de Noir 4) Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose
Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel 3) Dominique Ropion
*only perfumers who have created 3 or more fragrances which I like
Jean Claude Ellena:
Terre D'Hermes, Cartier Declaration, Bulgari au The Verte
Feuille Verte, Bois du Portugal, Silver Mountain Water, Millesime Imperial, Baie de Genievre, Neroli Sauvage, Green Irish Tweed, Tabarome Millesime, VIW
Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur, Bond no. 9 New Haarlem, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist
L'Artisan Dzing!, Diptyque Philosykos, L'Artisan Primier Figuer, Frederic Malle En Passant, Costes EDT
...and a few others I might be missing
Next to the often mentioned Roucel, Elena,Creed , Giacobetti etc., right now , for me, it's
definately Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, the perfumer for the Parfum d'Empire line.
I love the concept and I certainly like his work.
He combines his two passions, history and perfume, and does it very well in my eyes.
JC Ellena (JC stands for Jesus Christ... perhaps he is a Christ figure? Good old 12th grade English ingrained in me the unnatural response to the letter combo JC.)
Ellena also did Colonia Assoluta by Acqua di Parma.
Olivia Giacobetti. Hands down, my favorite perfumer of all time. T42, Dzing!, Premier Figuier, Philosykos... Wow.
I'd have to say Jacque Polge just for reaching his hand up to the heavens and bringing down the first bottle of Antaeus. Antaeus is one of those colognes that makes you happy to be alive, reformulated or not.
Speaking of Polge, the perfumer for Dior Homme is Olivier Polge... relation? Also a fabulous creation. Incarceration... Desolation... Insinuation... Anyone else remember that song?
Ummm... Pierre Montale anyone?
Last edited by _R$_; 6th September 2007 at 11:24 PM.
As always, disregard most of what I say. It's not worth your heart health to actually worry about what a 23 year old guy from Kansas thinks. Even if he is really ridiculously good looking.
Jean Paul Guerlain
Annick Goutal / Francis Camail
( http://freespace.virgin.net/lovely.perfume/Penhaligons.html ), Shirley Brody was a 'blender' at Penhaligons before working for C&S..and used to teach yoga to pregnant women before that
I also read that when no. 88 was being manufactured in Italy, it was produced by the same cologne manufacturer which made fragrances for the house of Domenico Caraceni.
Last edited by zztopp; 7th September 2007 at 03:22 AM. Reason: typos
Olivia Giacobetti certainly resonates for me. Idole, Fou d'Absinthe, En Passant, Philosykos - that's some string of accomplishments. I also enjoy a number of scents by Maurice Roucel and Pierre Bourdin, and would be willing to try anything either one of them concocts. For some reason, few of Jean Claude Ellena's scents have done much for me, and I'm all over the place on the Duchaufour; I love Dzongkha and Mechant Loup, but Bois Farine (or is this Laporte's?) and Timbuktu disgust me. My feelings about Chistopher Sheldrake are mixed. Sometimes I think his collaboration with Lutens has limited him to a syrupy-sweet oriental repertoire, while scents like Un Lys, Gris Clair and Sa Majeste la Rose suggest his range is actually much broader. It will be fascinating to see what he does at Chanel.
Looming over all, of course, is the shade of Eduard Roudnitska, who surely ranks as one of the last century's greatest noses. Eau Sauvage, Diorissimo, Eau d'Hermes, Le Parfum de Therese...works of genius, every one of them.
Last edited by Off-Scenter; 7th September 2007 at 01:03 AM.
I like the L'Artisan scents, but Lorenzo Villoresi is still tops on my list. It's hard to get better than his Vetiver, Piper Nigrum, Yerbamate, and Uomo in my book.
Ellena, Giacobetti, Roucel, Sheldrake, Polge and Serena Ava Franco. She does wonders with civet. I have been very impressed with several of of the Ava Luxe scents, such as Kama, Madame X, Film Noir, Midnight Violet, Shambala Tibet, Rasa, Ambra Tibet to name a few.
Patricia de Nicolai
A list of perfumers and their creations:
Last edited by pluran; 7th July 2012 at 08:01 PM.
Olivia Giacobetti is my #1 -- i would marry her!
Lorenzo Villoresi, Dominique Ropion, Jean Laporte, Andy Tauer and Yann Vasnier.
Ernest Beaux !!!
pluran, you read my mind (again) as I was just wondering how to find out who the creators of some of my favorites are...thanks for the links, I will research and post my findings.
I like this thread...an entirely new way in which to obsess over my favorite scents!
"Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189
What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache
Jean Claude Ellena
"To be irreplaceable, one must always be different!" - Coco Chanel
Yes definitely Yann Vasnier. He also developed CDG - Palisander and Jack Black Signature Black Mark along with the Divine creations.
Mike Storer. He did a custom cologne for me and it's great, and very addictive.
Germaine Cellier. No other favourites.
Laura Tonatto (Carthusia, Tonatto)
Bertrand Duchaufour (Colonia Assoluta-Acqua di Parma, Parfums Series 1 Leaves: Calamus-Comme des Garçons, Eau d'Italie-Eau d'Italie, Timbuktu-L'Artisan Parfumeur)
Last edited by Fiorello; 13th September 2007 at 02:29 AM.
I've felt great respect for the following perfumes, long before I learned that they have all been created by the same perfumer of the now generation:
*Miracle Homme has always puzzled me. And that began with instant aversion: seemingly cold, almost edgy – just like some persons who used to wear it in 2003 or 04. I now appreciate it as something quite extraordinary, but totally wearable: hot energy under an icy surface. I had to pass on*Le Male. I didn’t try hard either. Having a general preference for simplicity, the bottle seemed a bit outrageous when I first saw it. So what? LM has been extremely successful around the globe.
I heard good things about *Rose Barbare but never came closer. Even the more am I glad to have become familiar with one single iris perfume which I love: *Iris Nobile. Small wonder that I consider it as ADP’s best. More Flowers, a second 'Male': *Fleur du Male is a beautiful fragrance and perfect during the summertime - love it!
I shall not even try to find the proper words describing what the three Dior Exclusives mean to me, each of them pulling different strings.
I am simply happy with *Cologne Blanche, *Eau Noire and Bois D'Argent /Slimane - parting gifts to the house of Dior. (click):
(my post 2000)
Last edited by narcus; 17th September 2007 at 01:04 PM.
'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.
Olivia Giacobetti and of course Jacques Guerlain
"It is the mark of a brave man to admit defeat, cut his loss and move on." - David Ogilvy
Patricia de Nicolai
Jacques Guerlain is the greatest perfumer of all time.