Code of Conduct
Results 1 to 38 of 38
  1. #1

    Arrow Favourite Perfumers?

    You see lots of members asking for reccomendations from a particular fragrance house (which creed, l'artisan, lutens, malle should I buy next? etc).

    I was just wondering how many of you have particular perfumers that you are drawn to, and try fragrances developed by them because of that. Or would you be more inclined to try other frgarances from that particular house?...or maybe both?

    I'm on an Olivia Giacobetti mission at the moment, since tried and bought Tea for Two (might creep up to my no.1 spot before long!). I also have a great admiration for Dzing! and Philosykos (although I've slightly given up on this due to it's poor longevity). I'm awaiting an Idole sample, and aim to try Passage d'Enfer, Fou d'Absinthe and Mandarine Tout Simplement in the near future.

    Chris

  2. #2
    Basenotes Institution
    mikeperez23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    27,215

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Jean Claude Ellena comes to mind immediately.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Ditto on Jean Claude.

    Will add my other faves to the list:

    Ernest Beaux - Chanel's nose who created Cuir de Russie, Bois des Iles, No 22
    Jacques Guerlain - Guerlain master who created Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Apres L'Ondee, Sous le Vent
    Christopher Sheldrake - of Serge Lutens fame

    Favourite houses other than Chanel, Guerlain and SL are:

    - Caron
    - Frederic Malle
    Last edited by dimples; 6th September 2007 at 04:45 PM. Reason: added houses
    I'm simplifying my life. For Sale Thread (some niche, some designer):
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=222407

  4. #4

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    I am interested in trying anything by Annick Menardo, who is responsible for creating two of my top favorites:
    - Boucheron Jaïpur Homme
    - Bulgari Black.

    Annick Menardo is the Nose for a long list of fragrances marketed to both men and women, but at this time her creations that I am most familiar with or interested in are:
    - Christian Dior Bois d'Argent
    - Guerlain Bois d'Armenie
    - Le Labo Patchouli 24
    - Lolita Lempicka au Masculin
    - Yves Saint Laurent Body Kouros
    - Givenchy Xeryus Rouge
    - Boss Bottled
    - Céline pour Homme (I have not yet tried)
    - Kenzo Time for Peace for Him (I have not yet tried)

    Annick Menardo's fragrances seem to be very easy and rewarding for me to wear, and their sillage always seems to be just right. It seems that I always enjoy wearing her fragrances.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Jacques Guerlain (I call him St.Jacques)

    also:
    Germaine Céllier
    Ernest Daltroff
    Bertrand Duchaufour
    Jean-Claude Ellena
    Olivia Giacobetti
    Annick Goutal
    Jean Kerleo
    Jacques Polge
    François Robert
    Chris Sheldrake
    Félicie Wanpouille
    Last edited by tigrushka; 8th September 2007 at 05:51 AM. Reason: added AG and JP... and JK...
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  6. #6

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Jean Claude Ellena comes to mind immediately.
    i was coming in here to post this exact statement.

    also Christopher Brosius (CB I hate perfume), just cos he has this impeccable knack for capturing moments of my scent memory and distilling/bottling them in a way no one else has even come close to doing.

  7. #7
    Basenotes Institution
    mikeperez23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    27,215

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Quote Originally Posted by Rockford View Post
    I am interested in trying anything by Annick Menardo
    She also did the new Diesel scents that are coming out: Fuel for Life (men and womens versions).

  8. #8

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Quote Originally Posted by calexs View Post
    You see lots of members asking for reccomendations from a particular fragrance house (which creed, l'artisan, lutens, malle should I buy next? etc).

    I was just wondering how many of you have particular perfumers that you are drawn to, and try fragrances developed by them because of that. Or would you be more inclined to try other frgarances from that particular house?...or maybe both?

    I'm on an Olivia Giacobetti mission at the moment, since tried and bought Tea for Two (might creep up to my no.1 spot before long!). I also have a great admiration for Dzing! and Philosykos (although I've slightly given up on this due to it's poor longevity). I'm awaiting an Idole sample, and aim to try Passage d'Enfer, Fou d'Absinthe and Mandarine Tout Simplement in the near future.

    Chris
    It sounds like you share my affinity for Olivia. Among other L'Artisans Tea for Two is my absolute favorite and Dzing! is in my top bracket. Tigs has a great list of perfumers who created some wonderful stuff.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Quote Originally Posted by Rockford View Post
    Annick Menardo's fragrances seem to be very easy and rewarding for me to wear, and their sillage always seems to be just right. It seems that I always enjoy wearing her fragrances.
    yeah i really like annick menardo perfumes too - hypnotic poison, lolita lempicka and body kouros

    have you tried the new armani attitude? it may be similar to code but i love it anyway
    Last edited by jillsy; 6th September 2007 at 08:26 PM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Pierre Guillaume is one of my favourites at the moment. Mustn't forget Chris Sheldrake though.

    Barry

  11. #11

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    I'll second the praise for everyone mentioned so far. Another whom I particular admire is John Stephen, who composed No. 88*, Citrus Paradisi (aka Grapefruit), Cuba, and other fragrances for Czech & Speake.

    *Edit: I've evidently misattributed No. 88 to Stephens, repeating an error from the Basenotes Directory. Shirley Brody deserves credit for it. See posts by Scentemental and zztopp below (thanks guys!)


    Further edit, August 2009, for the record: It was eventually confirmed, based on word from John Stephen himself, that he was the one responsible for composing #88.
    Last edited by PaulSC; 20th August 2009 at 07:31 PM.
    Spray it, don’t say it…
    WARDROBE

  12. #12

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    of course Jacque Polge (Coco, Antaeus, Egoiste etc.)

    Francis Kurkdrijan (Le Male, Dior's Eau Noir, N. Rodriguez for her, Lanvin's Rumeur)

    M. Roucel (Iris silver mist, L'instant, Musc Ravageur)

    J.C. Ellena (L'eau d'hiver, Bigarade, Bois Farine)

    Dominique Ropion (Vetiver extraordinaire, Yasatis, Lalique le parfum, Carnal flower)

    J. Cavallier (Opium pour homme, M7, Nu, Rive gauche pour homme)
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) Frederic Malle 1-20 2) Chanel Egoiste 3) YSL Opium pour Homme edp 4) TF Noir de Noir

    Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel

  13. #13

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    *only perfumers who have created 3 or more fragrances which I like

    Jean Claude Ellena:
    Terre D'Hermes, Cartier Declaration, Bulgari au The Verte

    Olivier Creed:
    Feuille Verte, Bois du Portugal, Silver Mountain Water, Millesime Imperial, Baie de Genievre, Neroli Sauvage, Green Irish Tweed, Tabarome Millesime, VIW

    Maurice Roucel:
    Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur, Bond no. 9 New Haarlem, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist

    Olivia Giacobetti:
    L'Artisan Dzing!, Diptyque Philosykos, L'Artisan Primier Figuer, Frederic Malle En Passant, Costes EDT

    ...and a few others I might be missing
    -

  14. #14

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Next to the often mentioned Roucel, Elena,Creed , Giacobetti etc., right now , for me, it's
    definately Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, the perfumer for the Parfum d'Empire line.

    I love the concept and I certainly like his work.

    He combines his two passions, history and perfume, and does it very well in my eyes.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    JC Ellena (JC stands for Jesus Christ... perhaps he is a Christ figure? Good old 12th grade English ingrained in me the unnatural response to the letter combo JC.)

    Ellena also did Colonia Assoluta by Acqua di Parma.

    Olivia Giacobetti. Hands down, my favorite perfumer of all time. T42, Dzing!, Premier Figuier, Philosykos... Wow.

    I'd have to say Jacque Polge just for reaching his hand up to the heavens and bringing down the first bottle of Antaeus. Antaeus is one of those colognes that makes you happy to be alive, reformulated or not.
    Speaking of Polge, the perfumer for Dior Homme is Olivier Polge... relation? Also a fabulous creation. Incarceration... Desolation... Insinuation... Anyone else remember that song?

    Ummm... Pierre Montale anyone?
    - Rich
    Last edited by _R$_; 6th September 2007 at 11:24 PM.
    As always, disregard most of what I say. It's not worth your heart health to actually worry about what a 23 year old guy from Kansas thinks. Even if he is really ridiculously good looking.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Maurice Roucel
    Edmond Roudnitska
    Christopher Sheldrake
    Jacques Guerlain
    Jean Paul Guerlain
    Annick Goutal / Francis Camail
    Jacques Polge

  17. #17

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulSC View Post
    I'll second the praise for everyone mentioned so far. Another whom I particular admire is John Stephen, who composed No. 88, Citrus Paradisi (aka Grapefruit), Cuba, and other fragrances for Czech & Speake.

    Someone please correct me if I am wrong, but it has always been my understanding that Shirley Brody is the nose behind Czech & Speake No. 88 not John Stephen.

    scentemental


    Last edited by scentemental; 7th September 2007 at 12:19 AM.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Quote Originally Posted by scentemental View Post
    Someone please correct me if I am wrong, but it has always been my understanding that Shirley Brody is the nose behind Czech & Speake No. 88 not John Stephen.

    scentemental
    From what I know, Frank Sawkins (the founder of C&S) brought in Shirley Brody to do no. 88. According to this write-up ( http://freespace.virgin.net/lovely.perfume/Penhaligons.html ), Shirley Brody was a 'blender' at Penhaligons before working for C&S..and used to teach yoga to pregnant women before that

    I also read that when no. 88 was being manufactured in Italy, it was produced by the same cologne manufacturer which made fragrances for the house of Domenico Caraceni.
    Last edited by zztopp; 7th September 2007 at 03:22 AM. Reason: typos
    -

  19. #19
    Off-Scenter
    Guest

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Olivia Giacobetti certainly resonates for me. Idole, Fou d'Absinthe, En Passant, Philosykos - that's some string of accomplishments. I also enjoy a number of scents by Maurice Roucel and Pierre Bourdin, and would be willing to try anything either one of them concocts. For some reason, few of Jean Claude Ellena's scents have done much for me, and I'm all over the place on the Duchaufour; I love Dzongkha and Mechant Loup, but Bois Farine (or is this Laporte's?) and Timbuktu disgust me. My feelings about Chistopher Sheldrake are mixed. Sometimes I think his collaboration with Lutens has limited him to a syrupy-sweet oriental repertoire, while scents like Un Lys, Gris Clair and Sa Majeste la Rose suggest his range is actually much broader. It will be fascinating to see what he does at Chanel.

    Looming over all, of course, is the shade of Eduard Roudnitska, who surely ranks as one of the last century's greatest noses. Eau Sauvage, Diorissimo, Eau d'Hermes, Le Parfum de Therese...works of genius, every one of them.
    Last edited by Off-Scenter; 7th September 2007 at 01:03 AM.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    From what I know, Frank Sawkins (the founder of C&S) brought in Shirley Brody to do no. 88
    Quote Originally Posted by scentemental View Post
    Someone please correct me if I am wrong, but it has always been my understanding that Shirley Brody is the nose behind Czech & Speake No. 88 not John Stephen.

    scentemental
    Thanks guys, I've corrected my earlier post and submitted a correction to the BN database.

    -- Paul
    Spray it, don’t say it…
    WARDROBE

  21. #21

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    I like the L'Artisan scents, but Lorenzo Villoresi is still tops on my list. It's hard to get better than his Vetiver, Piper Nigrum, Yerbamate, and Uomo in my book.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Ellena, Giacobetti, Roucel, Sheldrake, Polge and Serena Ava Franco. She does wonders with civet. I have been very impressed with several of of the Ava Luxe scents, such as Kama, Madame X, Film Noir, Midnight Violet, Shambala Tibet, Rasa, Ambra Tibet to name a few.

  23. #23
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Pacific Northwest
    Posts
    6,995

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Edmond Roudnitska
    Francois Coty
    Jacques Guerlain
    Ernest Beaux
    Jean-Paul Guerlain
    Jean Carles
    Germaine Cellier
    Henri Robert
    Jean Kerleo
    Jacques Polge
    Gerard Anthony
    Bernard Chant
    Pierre Bourdon
    Patricia de Nicolai
    Edouard Flechier
    Francois Kurkdjian
    Calice Becker
    Annick Menardo


    A list of perfumers and their creations:


    A-E

    http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/b...umersAtoG.html

    F-I

    http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/b...umersFtoL.html

    H-Z

    http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com/b...umersHtoZ.html
    Last edited by pluran; 7th July 2012 at 08:01 PM.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Olivia Giacobetti is my #1 -- i would marry her!

    Honorable mentions:
    Lorenzo Villoresi
    JC Ellena
    Dominique Ropion

  25. #25

    Thumbs up Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Lorenzo Villoresi, Dominique Ropion, Jean Laporte, Andy Tauer and Yann Vasnier.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Oliver Creed

  27. #27

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Ernest Beaux !!!

  28. #28

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    pluran, you read my mind (again) as I was just wondering how to find out who the creators of some of my favorites are...thanks for the links, I will research and post my findings.

    I like this thread...an entirely new way in which to obsess over my favorite scents!
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  29. #29

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Pierre Bourdon
    Christopher Sheldrake
    Guy Robert
    Jean Claude Ellena
    "To be irreplaceable, one must always be different!" - Coco Chanel

    visit: WWW.SNIFFAPALOOZAMAGAZINE.COM

  30. #30

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Yes definitely Yann Vasnier. He also developed CDG - Palisander and Jack Black Signature Black Mark along with the Divine creations.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Mike Storer. He did a custom cologne for me and it's great, and very addictive.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Germaine Cellier. No other favourites.

  33. #33

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Laura Tonatto (Carthusia, Tonatto)
    Bertrand Duchaufour (Colonia Assoluta-Acqua di Parma, Parfums Series 1 Leaves: Calamus-Comme des Garçons, Eau d'Italie-Eau d'Italie, Timbuktu-L'Artisan Parfumeur)
    Last edited by Fiorello; 13th September 2007 at 02:29 AM.

  34. #34

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?


    I've felt great respect for the following perfumes, long before I learned that they have all been created by the same perfumer of the now generation:

    *
    Miracle Homme has always puzzled me. And that began with instant aversion: seemingly cold, almost edgy – just like some persons who used to wear it in 2003 or 04. I now appreciate it as something quite extraordinary, but totally wearable: hot energy under an icy surface. I had to pass on*Le Male. I didn’t try hard either. Having a general preference for simplicity, the bottle seemed a bit outrageous when I first saw it. So what? LM has been extremely successful around the globe.

    I heard good things about *Rose Barbare but never came closer. Even the more am I glad to have become familiar with one single iris perfume which I love: *Iris Nobile. Small wonder that I consider it as ADP’s best. More Flowers, a second 'Male': *Fleur du Male is a beautiful fragrance and perfect during the summertime - love it!

    I shall not even try to find the proper words describing what the three Dior Exclusives mean to me, each of them pulling different strings.
    I am simply happy with *Cologne Blanche, *Eau Noire and Bois D'Argent /Slimane - parting gifts to the house of Dior. (click):

    Francis Kurkdjian

    (my post 2000)


    Last edited by narcus; 17th September 2007 at 01:04 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  35. #35

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Olivia Giacobetti and of course Jacques Guerlain
    "It is the mark of a brave man to admit defeat, cut his loss and move on." - David Ogilvy

  36. #36

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Aimé Guerlain
    Jacques Guerlain
    Ernest Beaux
    Ernest Daltroff
    Edmond Roudnitska
    Henri Robert
    Guy Robert
    Jacques Polge
    Jean-Paul Guerlain
    Edouard Flechier
    Dominique Ropion
    Jean-Claude Ellena
    Annick Goutal
    Patricia de Nicolai
    Andy Tauer
    Pierre Montale

  37. #37

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Jacques Guerlain is the greatest perfumer of all time.

  38. #38

    Default Re: Favourite Perfumers?

    Jacques Polge.

Similar Threads

  1. UPDATED: Perfumer's Alcohol
    By Sarahsaurus in forum Fragrance DIY
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 12th October 2014, 10:56 PM
  2. Your favourite and least favourite fragrance caps
    By Trebor in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 61
    Last Post: 27th August 2012, 11:36 AM
  3. IFRA proposals will cause perfumers to abandon citrus oils
    By Grant in forum General Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 25th March 2008, 02:00 PM
  4. The Great Perfumers and Their Not-So-Masterpieces
    By trumpet_guy in forum Male Fragrance Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 22nd April 2006, 08:23 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000