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  1. #1

    Default 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    We have reached Round 3 of our blind sniffing fun and this round is dedicated to the huge Orientals family.
    I am very honoured to have the following blind sniffers in this round:

    Twolf
    Tinker424
    Dcfong


    The ladies have received 3 vials each, marked A, B, and C: no clue, no hint, they will be relying on their noses only .... don't be shy, just describe as much as you can to the best of your ability!


    Our Riannon has been entrusted with the backup list of the fragrance inside each vial.

    But that’s not all…..
    Twolfie, tinks and dcfong have also received one vial containing a mysterious scent that HAS a name, but no notes listed and no reviews or descriptions anywhere: Eau de Narguilé by the French house Création Mathias (I remember many of you loving their Figue).
    The blind sniffers’ additional assignment will be to create the olfactory pyramid for this scent (and anybody having information will be so very welcome!).


    Every girl and boy on Basenotes is enthusiastically invited to participate! Let the fun begin…..


    One initial hint: at least one of the mysterious scents is as EASY as can be!
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  2. #2

    TaoLady's Avatar
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Quote Originally Posted by Lady_in_Black View Post

    One initial hint: at least one of the mysterious scents is as EASY as can be!
    Yeah! Right!!
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  3. #3
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    With me working evenings, I had to wake up early to see where the sniffers are now. Anyway, I received all four over a week ago and started opening the vials and sniffing right away. Let's start with A, B and C: all are ambery to a different degree, all are good and I suspect that all three of them are by the House of Guerlain. Or, feel like it!

    Sample A

    Liquid: light to medium yellow liquid, alcohol based.

    General character: contemplative, classy, self-assured, a Guerlain.

    Development: light amber, light citrus, a vegetable-like note (basil? fresh cedar? pickling dill?), jasmine, heliotrope, cold and slightly soapy patchouli (however, it might be leather!), ylang ylang, sandalwood, a bit of tobacco, a hint of vanilla, some animalic notes. Nothing really sticks out, but during the day it basically goes like ambery --> creamy --> "old lady" powdery. Neither sweet, nor sour or bitter, very harmonious composition. No flowers, not much spices, not boozy. Light but tenacious.

    Longevity: very good, up to 6 hours dabbed and about 8 hours sprayed.

    Sillage: insignificant, sits close to skin.

    Imagery: a guided tour of an old house. A particularly dark room. A carved box made of wood with mother of pearl accents on an antique table. They used the box to store letters and before that, cigars. "Refrain from fainting on the leather divans" signs everywhere. No wonder: the lady giving the tour has a personal connection with the house, with the antiques, with the box. She knows, if one comes and touches it -- Puff! it dissipates into million little specks, into a small pile of dusty memories.

    Reminds me of: Guerlain Purple Fantasy without the tea, blackberry and apricot. Guerlain Habit Rouge with less leather. Molinard Habanita done in water colors and with less vanilla. Guerlain Guerlinade. I might have tested it before, but I have never had the full bottle, although it is absolutely FBW.

    Thanks for a chance to try such a gorgeous scent.
    Currently wearing: Omnia Paraiba by Bulgari

  4. #4

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Wow, Twolf, I love that imagery, although the one I have when wearing this scent is slighly less somber and contemplative
    And no, it's no Guerlain
    Looking forward to our other two sniffers' posts before disclosing more
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  5. #5
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Today we are having rain here and it is very humid. Somehow, fragrance A is opening up as more of ambery-vanilla than powdery-sandalwood, which was the case in dryer weather. Still very smooth. If it helps to any of wild stabbers!
    Currently wearing: Omnia Paraiba by Bulgari

  6. #6

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    I've had scent A on for about 3 hours now:
    It seems EXTREMELY familiar! It has the same spicy sandalwood/musky amber notes as Burberry Brit Gold only much less intense.
    I have no clue what it could be Sorry!!

  7. #7
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    We can do it! Do not give up that easily, Tinks!

    Strangely, I do not get much spices: they are there, but they are light and nicely blended. Perhaps, cardamom? nutmeg? In no way it is "spicy" as is, in the traditinal meaning of a word. Well, the centerstage is not theirs, not on my skin... Grown-up, dry vanilla -- yes! Sandalwood -- present. Musk (good, not crystalline or whatever modern name it has now) -- also a check.

    Totally agree that it "sounds" familiar though. There is also some certain coolness and soapyness in the middle notes that I first described as patchouli or "leather divans", I was also thinking of moss, but I do not know now. Is there such as thing as soapy amber?
    --------------------------------------
    Probably this one will be Automerged with the previous one: another fragrance it reminds me of is MPG George Sand -- tried, loved and was too late a get a bottle!

    In your opinion, will Shadesofbleu enjoy this amber?
    Last edited by Twolf; 10th September 2007 at 04:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    Currently wearing: Omnia Paraiba by Bulgari

  8. #8

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Hello everyone!

    I first have to confess that y’all have me a bit intimidated. I’m still trying to figure out what notes smell like what!

    So here's my best crack at “A.” And I hope I’m not way off track, but the way this one keeps changing and smelling differently every time I put nose to wrist makes me think it must be a very well-made scent, not anything for the mass market. (please don’t laugh if I’m wrong!)

    The first thing I thought when I tried “A” was, “hey, this smells familiar.” My first impression was that this has to be a Chanel. It starts off with a shrill blast of something that I interpret as aldehydes or maybe citrus, then settles down into a lovely thing I can’t stop sniffing – which is what happens with several Chanels on me. Once the shrill stuff goes away, I smell something soft, powdery, and a little bit spicy, maybe a hint of incense. Then all I get is amber, lots of amber, really nice amber, then amber with a bit of vanilla. Hours later, I smell something woody, a bit masculine and dark, which might be… patch?

    I did a side by side comparison with the two Chanels in the Oriental vein of which I have samples (only samples! I wish I had FBs, but that will have to wait until after I make my fortune), Bois de Iles and Coco. “A” lacks the ginger and sandlewood in BdI and isn’t as loud as Coco. They definitely smell like cousins, though.

    So am I right? Could this be Coromandel? I was quite surprised to find that several reviews of Coromandel match what I think of "A." I haven’t had a chance to sample this one. Whatever "A" is, it's gorgeous, and I really, really like it!!

  9. #9

    TaoLady's Avatar
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Oh wow! you guys are really rockin' on this"Orient Express". GREAT, evocative reviews all (and dcfong - you're doing terrific - are you sure you're really a newie??!!)

    I'm guessing A (just 'cause I love it) to be Tabu. - highly underrated, beautifully composed and available at your nearest drugstore for centimes!!
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  10. #10
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Not Tabu -- remember, nothing really sticks out in A, very very balanced. No booziness, no heat, no extremeties. The liquid also has a lighter color than Tabu.
    Do not believe it is Coromandel either -- A is missing that "laquer" note so prominent in Coromandel, and I do not believe it is a Chanel either in spite of some coolness.

    Is there a word Ambra/Amber/Ambre in A's name?

    Dcfong, you are doing just fine! Hang on there, girl, we will get it together!
    Last edited by Twolf; 11th September 2007 at 06:46 PM.
    Currently wearing: Omnia Paraiba by Bulgari

  11. #11
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Mmmm, this sounds like fun!

    Having no clue as to what you might be smelling I offer a few random guesses:

    Coty Emeraude ?
    Dana Raffinee?
    Lentheric Byzance?
    Ava Luxe Opoponax / Opoponax Intense?
    Yves Rocher Voile D'Ambre?
    Five Star Fragrance Company Royal Secret Concentree?

    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

    Tabu + Orange Blossom * Hermes Rouge + Bellodgia* Voleur du Roses+ Rose Ispahan * Rasa Extreme + Paris * Wood Coffee + Cafe Noir *

  12. #12
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Out of 6 fragrances moondeva mentioned, I am familiar with three and sample A smells close to YR Voile d'Ambre, but not exactly like it. It is more complex and it dries down to more powdery sandalwood. That's why I have asked if it has a word Amber/Ambre/Ambra in its name, because, ultimately, it is a soft ambery smell, I think.
    Currently wearing: Omnia Paraiba by Bulgari

  13. #13

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    :wave: I am luckily able to access Basenotes again! Let's hope it lasts...
    Nice guesses, all of you, but none winning so far!

    The interesting aspect is how many scents sample A calls to mind...even if it's a relatively recent release, the main critique was that there's nothing groundbreaking in it. Agreed, it has a rather classic oriental structure, but it's not sooo boring to my nose. Dcfong, I am glad you like it!

    Yes to sandalwood, patch, "good" musk and amber!! But there's not the word "amber" in any language in its name. It is in the directory but notes are not listed .

    Spices? Not among the official notes...maybe some "exotic" ingredient? Interestingly, there's neither bergamot - nor other citrus fruit - in the top.

    On my skin, once it dries, it is mostly sandalwood, another balsamic wood calling mahogany to my mind (Twolf, your carved box?) and an overall soft powdery accord; I don't perceive the patch as such, but as a component to form another note . I would like to get all the amber you get, ladies!

    Does anybody smell flowers?
    How would you evaluate the quality of this scent? Natural or synthetic?
    What colour does it evoke?

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  14. #14

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    I'm probably wrong,but Tom Ford's Black Orchid comes to mind...

  15. #15

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Quote Originally Posted by ineespenes View Post
    I'm probably wrong,but Tom Ford's Black Orchid comes to mind...
    It's not, ineespenes, sorry - it definitely lacks the heavy, overripe notes of Black Orchid.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  16. #16

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Would it happen to be from Maitre Parfumer et Gantier? The base seems very much like the MPG signiture musk base...to my me anyway
    I smell no flowers.
    It recalls a dark gold, like ornate Indian jewelry.
    It seems a blend of natural (sandalwood) and synthetic (musk).

  17. #17
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Agree about MPG ("their" sandalwood, also similar to George Sand, but not exactly the latter!) and also add that it might be from Etro.
    Color(s): brown and white, like yellowed letters and old photographs in sepia.
    Flowers: not many, but there are some lavender, geranium, heliotrope and ylang ylang, not as accents but to hold the composition together.
    Exotic ingredient: it is not fruit or wood or some sort of fabric, although it does have that "cooling" character of leather and patchouli. Ebony? Not that "balsamic" to my nostrils!
    Natural vs Synthetic: I do not know!

    Satellite Padparadscha?
    Last edited by Twolf; 12th September 2007 at 02:02 PM.
    Currently wearing: Omnia Paraiba by Bulgari

  18. #18

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    The house lists a whole truckload of floral notes!

    However, I fully agree that the scent is so seamlessly blended that they don't stand out...except in the very first sniffs, tinks, if you hold your nose close to your skin.

    Neither MPG nor Etro nor Satellite, but are you ladies veering towards niche, maybe??
    Very good, dear wolfie, you got leather and ylang ylang right :bounce: And the "nose" admitted to be using both naturals and synthetics in HIS scents

    Let us resume the notes found so far:

    ylang ylang, amber, sandalwood, musk, leather, patchouli, powdery notes :wave:

    Dcfong, we need your help!!
    Last edited by Lady_in_Black; 12th September 2007 at 02:40 PM.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  19. #19
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Wow ......this sounds like a difficult one! I can't wait until someone figures it out :bounce:

  20. #20
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Back to where we all started, only now -- to sniff flowers.
    Rose -- no!
    Carnation -- perhaps!
    Mimosa -- not really!
    Iris -- maybe, an odd variety!
    Gardenia -- yeek, dead!
    Lilacs -- not a hint!
    Violets -- same!
    Orchid -- OK, there are so many of them, some even smell like a pair of socks worn for a week, but not in A!
    Lily of the valley, osmanthus, orange blossom, champaca, tiara, acacia, hyacinth, hibiscus, tuberose, lotus, freesia, cherry blossom, almond blossom -- probably just almond blossom, but again, not a slap in your face!
    Any other flowers we are forgetting? It is hard to find a black cat in the dark room especially if it is not there. Signed: Not me.

    What was the importance of color association? :confused It is more of Renoir than Titian, if it matters any!

    I do not believe it is a mass-market fragrance, though.
    Last edited by Twolf; 12th September 2007 at 06:57 PM. Reason: Spelling of Titian
    Currently wearing: Omnia Paraiba by Bulgari

  21. #21

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Dear wolfie, either you know the identity of sample A already or we have a case of serious extrasensory communication here

    The colour association is important in that the bottle has a colour which is totally different - and gorgeous - from the two colours this perfumer - - normally uses. And it is a colour Titian is famous for .

    IMO the colour of the bottle goes very well with the character of the scent and with Orientals in general.

    I feel I am giving it all away here. Tinks and Dcfong, where are you, darlings?
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  22. #22
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Now I know it for sure!
    Currently wearing: Omnia Paraiba by Bulgari

  23. #23
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    And it is a colour Titian is famous for

    that would be red

  24. #24

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Quote Originally Posted by Kyra View Post
    And it is a colour Titian is famous for

    that would be red
    Exactly, Kyra!


    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    Now I know it for sure!
    Eh, something told me just that!
    Last edited by Lady_in_Black; 12th September 2007 at 07:43 PM.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  25. #25

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    I really don't know. Honest. I fold.

  26. #26

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    Thanks for all the encouragement, everyone. But, nope, I've got no idea.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    C'mon guys, my curious fingers are already playing with B!

    What Tiziano was fond of as a young man, were courtesans! Not all of them, he was indifferent to blondes and brunettes, or so I have heard.... Now back to our reality -- anyone?
    Currently wearing: Omnia Paraiba by Bulgari

  28. #28

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    What we do know about sample A:

    - House is actually a perfumer/nose, male
    - Scent comes in a ruby red bottle, other than the fragrances in the line (which come in either frosted clear or blue bottles )
    - was relatively recently released (2006 )

    I confirm that it is niche (as all blind sniffers had more or less placed it with their last guesses) and that amyris is among the notes listed .
    Last edited by Lady_in_Black; 13th September 2007 at 07:27 AM.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  29. #29
    PaulSC's Avatar
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    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    ...
    Last edited by PaulSC; 13th September 2007 at 08:01 AM. Reason: sportsmanship
    Spray it, don’t say it…
    WARDROBE

  30. #30

    Default Re: 3x3 Blind Sniff, Round 3 "Orienteering in the Orient"

    I think I have guessed it but I don't know if I may tell, since I have not entered the competition earlier...
    Currently wearing: Nanban by Arquiste

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