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  1. #1
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    Default 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Or, like it used to be on NST "He says, she says...."! We all know that autumn is a perfect season for wearing chypres, with their sharp top notes and woody-mossy soft base, just like the leaves under your feet, though autumn is lurking somewhere in Europe this year, not here yet!

    Purplebird7 is still resolving her computer situation, and I will be quoting her here:
    My samples are not hard to guess. I tried to focus on Chypres that people should know because they are important in some way.

    Not only 2 people will be posting their impressions -- Indiscreet and MikePerez, we are also deviating from the usual niche, department store and drugstore pattern here. All three samples in Round 5 are designer fragrances and they are all chypres, each is beautiful and different from the other two! Remember the standard composition: bergamot (other citrus), herbs --> floral heart --> oakmoss, woods with hundreds of other notes interwoven and glimmering as accents.

    I encourage everybody to participate in guessing. If you think you know what fragrances are being described but not sure, or for the reasons of sportsmanship, you can pm me your answer. Multiple guesses are also welcome. One can also ask about the similarities of the fragrance in question with other chypres you know and love.

  2. #2

    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    I must admit, my knowledge of mainstream scents is not all that great - I'm a bit of a perfume newbie, having been on Basenotes less than a year. I'm still learning!

    Sample A then...
    Sharp green opening - galbanum? Something a little animalic too, and maybe iris? It's quite astringent on my skin to begin with.
    After a while it softens to a lovely jasmine. There are other flowers here, but my nose isn't doing a great job of distinguishing them. Maybe a hint of rose?

    I'm going to have a stab at No.19.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    No, not Chanel # 19!

    On the contrary, dear Indiscreet, all the notes identified so far -- galbanum, jasmine, rose and "something animalic" in the drydown -- are present in A!

    What is A's general character?
    Is it sweet at all?
    EdT or EdP?
    Long lasting?
    Any images or associations?
    Last edited by Twolf; 30th September 2007 at 04:58 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Initially quite sharp and green...then softer and floral...and now green again, but a cool green (moss, I'd guess) with a hint of something sweet...vanilla, perhaps...but whatever it is, it's faint.

    I'd say EDP but it's hard to say. A lot of stuff doesn't last on me...for instance, Angel EDP, which some people can't scrub off, lasts only a couple of hours, while Poison EDT lasts all day.
    Sample A has lasted thus far, but is very close to my skin, with no sillage to speak of.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    I see... According to purplebird7 some people have reported narcissus and leather in this one.

    How would you compare A with Aromatics Elixir and Ivoire (I see some eyebrows raised here, as Ivoire is also classified as green floral!) that are in your permanent wardrobe?


  6. #6

    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    I don't get any leather from this at all. Narcissus? Maybe.
    And it certainly doesn't resemble AE, which is a warm scent - this is a cool scent. It's definitely nothing I'd choose to wear.
    Likewise, Ivoire is sweeter and lighter. I'd say Ivoire is a floral with a hint of green. This is green with a hint of floral.

  7. #7

    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Indiscreet, No. 19 was your first guess and you're describing it as "green with a hint of floral". I gather it must definitely be a green chypre?
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  8. #8

    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Well I'm not sure...I'm rather sensitive to "green."
    It's probably classed as a floral chypre. I can certainly smell a lot of fat jasmine at the heart.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    We are on a right track, ladies! Mikeperez will join us on Tuesday, since tomorrow is Black Monday!
    :toppie:

  10. #10
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Notes so far are not inconsistant with either Vent Vert or Private Collection, but neither of those are known for subtle sillage and both say green to me louder than they say floral.

  11. #11

    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    May I humbly suggest we suspend the guessing until Tuesday, in order to give mikeperez a fair chance to describe his impressions?
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  12. #12

    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Well, it turns out I'm allergic to sample A...I've got a little rash. Fortunately I have some steroid cream left over from my reaction earlier in the year. Anyway, I will not be testing sample A again so I'll leave it to Mike to add his input.

  13. #13

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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Ma Griffe??
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  14. #14
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Thanks for your patience ladies. I will be actually sampling Sample A tonight, since I see Indiscreet has started and I don't want to make everyone wait until Tuesday...

    God, I hope my session with A is not rash inducing. Ick!

    If I had to guess wildly at what A is totally based upon Indiscreet's wonderful note detections that were confirmed, I'd say Miss Dior. But DONT TELL ME if I'm right, until I've had a chance to sniff them tonite.

    Gotta take a shower now, I was window shopping at Neimans and I positively reek of the new Gucci (which is snuggly gourmand/amber good)...scrubbing, scrubbing...
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  15. #15

    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Oh, I sniffed something while shopping yesterday, that sounds just like what Indiscreet described. PM'ing Twolf my guess.
    I'm simplifying my life. For Sale Thread (some niche, some designer):
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=222407

  16. #16
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    OK - at the top notes, A reminds me very strongly of Private Collection (Estee Lauder) however as was previously mentioned, PC is strawng! And A isn't.

    I also get the green vs. floral thing - but I get no narcissus (I kinda hate narcissus...). I do get leather but it pulses in the background (back and forth) in a Caron (Tabac Blond) sort of way, just not too 'dominatrix'-y.

    So, since it's been a while since I've smelled Miss Dior, I'm gonna guess Miss Dior?

    A is not aldehyde-ish enough to be Caleche by Hermes? And it's not animalic enough to be Paloma Picasso. Plus Caleche and PP are deep gold in color and A is yellow-ish, pale (like Miss Dior is...). I was also thinking it might by Y by YSL, but Y is kinda greenish in color, no?

    I haven't smelled Ma Griffe (Taolady's guess...)

    I'm headed to bed...I will pick this up where I left off on Tuesday (tomorrow is Bulgari Black Day) - that is, unless I guessed correct?!
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 1st October 2007 at 02:16 AM.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  17. #17
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Could be cruel and let us all hang till Tuesday, but I am not!

    Congratulations to Mike, well done!

    Quoting purplebird7:

    Please save the following text to cut and paste:

    Sample A - Miss Dior
    Official notes by Christian Dior: sage, gardenia, galbanum, rose, neroli, jasmine, oakmoss, patchouli, labdanum.
    This fragrance was selected because it, more than any other perfume today, represents what the Chypre de Coty formula was all about. Miss Dior has the strong, sweet, mossy, unforgettable aroma of a true old-school chypre. I will miss this terribly when it is gone.
    Unoffocial notes probably include bergamot, and some people have reported narcissus and leather.


    In regard with other guesses: My Griffe is close, IMHO (green and herbal and bit dryer on me) and Y has a distinct peach note missing in Miss Dior.

    Good job all, thanks for your efforts! And sorry to hear about your rash, Indiscreet, hope it can be avoided with the other two! (Totally OT: remember Riannon's cure against perfume induced rashes among non newbies? ) Agree with Mike calling your note detecting skills wonderful. (((( A hug for you )))).

  18. #18

    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Odd that I had a reaction - I have worn other Diors for years with no problems (Diorissimo in my teens, and now Poison and Hypnotic Poison). Maybe it's the oakmoss! (I'd hope not though as I wear Mitsouko without problem also).

    Congrats to Mike.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Great! That was easy, huh Indiscreet? We make a good team! You sniff the notes (simultaneously getting a rash) and I take your notes and identify the scent. Sounds good to me!

    Seriously - Miss Dior is a pretty great scent. I think it takes all of the best parts of Private Collection and Tabac Blond and gives them both to you. I must agree - we're talking about a classic chypre here ladies. This stuff will be wearable in 2107. I wish it lasted longer...did Dior ever make a parfum of this? If so, I'd love to smell it.

    Okay - onto Round 2 with B tomorrow! :bounce:

    Indiscreet sweetie...I'm saying a little prayer that the evil oakmoss (or whatever it is) isn't in B or C.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 1st October 2007 at 05:57 PM.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  20. #20
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Evil oakmoss is the reason many of us love Chypres

  21. #21

    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    I hope so too! It's not bad though - I'm sure I'll be ready for action tomorrow.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    OK so I applied B this morning - my first thoughts:

    - Floral top notes (not green like Miss Dior) - I'm thinking tuberose or some other white flower
    - My mom used to wear (when I was a kid) Norell and Jontue a lot - I think she even wore Tabu. B has something in the top notes that remind me of these three scents. But since we're guessing a 'Designer' scent I'm assuming these 3 can't be B.
    - A slight powdery effect lasts for a short while and then fades.
    - This smells American...not French. I can't say why. It's just a feeling
    - Not much leather or 'dark' notes in this one...perhaps oakmoss but light oakmoss notes
    - Something in the drydown reminds me of Cabochard by Gres

    The color is pale - perhaps the color of champagne.

    Here's the thing - it is about mid 90 degrees here in Miami and about 100% humidity. The scent of B was loud-and-clear in my car but when I arrived to the office my office air conditioner is being serviced so it's hot and sweltering here. The scent of B has literally been eaten up by the humidity...so I'm gonna have to wait until tonight to reapply the rest of my sample (at home) to give you ladies another take on B.

    Indiscreet sweetie...how're you doing with B??
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  23. #23

    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    I'm trying it when I get home, after I've had my post-gym bath. Then I'll be able to give it my full attention.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Hey TWolf - is B a Chanel fragrance?
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  25. #25
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    No, not from Chanel.

    I will try to reread mikes' first message and comment:
    Floral top -- quite right, only preceded by bergamot overload, what particular flowers can you pick out?
    General: Something familiar to everyone;
    Slightly powdery? Not in the least on me! What in your opinion produces this powdery effect: woods, florals, vanilla, aldehydes?
    American? No, it is French, although popular in the USA as well as the whole world;
    Not much leather or 'dark' notes? -- Scent B is different on me -- can be butch and can be mellow.
    Something in the drydown reminds me of Cabochard by Gres -- What is this? May I say leather? or total coolness? or something else?

  26. #26

    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    I get floral, but with a dirty undercurrent. Does it have narcissus? (I've just applied it so it's not dried down yet). Maybe honeysuckle...and a hint of rose. Just waiting for it to develop.
    Last edited by Indiscreet; 2nd October 2007 at 06:42 PM.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    No, not from Chanel.

    I will try to reread mikes' first message and comment:
    Floral top -- quite right, only preceded by bergamot overload, what particular flowers can you pick out?
    General: Something familiar to everyone;
    Slightly powdery? Not in the least on me! What in your opinion produces this powdery effect: woods, florals, vanilla, aldehydes?
    American? No, it is French, although popular in the USA as well as the whole world;
    Not much leather or 'dark' notes? -- Scent B is different on me -- can be butch and can be mellow.
    Something in the drydown reminds me of Cabochard by Gres -- What is this? May I say leather? or total coolness? or something else?
    I thought the floral top notes were white flowers...but now maybe I'm thinking it was honeysuckle after Indiscreets suggestion. But, let me say, I have a problem detecting mimosa and everytime I smell mimosa I think it's honeysuckle. So maybe I'm detecting mimosa in the top notes?

    Powdery effect is brought on by the florals, I think.

    French scent (but not Chanel) huh?

    Drydown that resembles Cabochard is not leather - but maybe castoreum or moss (or both?)

    Is it by Balenciaga?
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  28. #28

    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    The drydown is cooler and greener. I detect moss and possibly vetiver.
    I'm going to take a wild stab at Rive Gauche.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by Indiscreet View Post
    The drydown is cooler and greener. I detect moss and possibly vetiver.
    I'm going to take a wild stab at Rive Gauche.
    Ooh - if it is Rive Gauche that'd be surprising because I thought I hated RG and I kinda like 'B'.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  30. #30
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    Default Re: 2x3 Blind Sniff Round 5 Chypres

    I get castoreum too from B. And a few florals present in the official set of notes have been mentioned, among them rose, mimosa and white flowers (here it is tuberose and orange blossom).

    Does it smell modern at all? A new chypre like, perhaps, Agent Provocateur? Or, does it smell classy? Or, rather, does it belong to the powerhouse 80's category?
    What images do you get while wearing B?
    Is it possible to be worn by a man?
    Does it smell like anything you had worn before? What is different in B as comapred to the chypres you know?
    If A was selected by purplebird7 as the one closest to the original Chypre de Coty, what do you think was the reason behind B's selection?

    No, neither Balenciaga, nor Rive Gauche.
    Last edited by Twolf; 3rd October 2007 at 05:37 AM.

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