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  1. #1

    Default Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    The L'Art et la Matière series from Guerlain consists of Rose Barbare (Francis Kurkdjian), Iris Ganache (Thierry Wasser), Bois d'Armenie (Annick Ménardo), Cuir Beluga (Olivier Polge) and Ang'elique Noire (Danièla Andrier). Some fine perfumers in work there...

    So far I've only tried Rose Barbare and that one might very well be my favorite rose together with Serge Lutens Sa Majesté La Rose. Velvety soft and close to the skin, extremely beautiful.

    Now, I've read reviews of the rest and some are thrilled others have more lukewarm things to say... I might get back and write more about Rose Barbare tonight, but I hope some of you could add something about these all while I'm at work.
    --------------------------------------
    Not one member here find these special enough, no?
    Last edited by shifts; 1st October 2007 at 09:20 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Just noticed this old thread...

    I know that Comdiva has something to say about Bois d'Armenie, since she sampled me some about 6 months ago.

    Amazing scent. I actually went and bought the Papier d'Armenie (fragrant incense papers) just so that I could smell the scent that the nose based this scent on. I have this memory of wearing BdA to the theatre and that day I had gotten a suntan in my backyard so my skin was warm. The smell of the BdA on my skin, was wafting all around me and I really enjoyed the smoky honey note this gave off. I was smitten.

    I've not tried the others - although the Rose Barbare intrigues me because I have been so enjoying my Narciso Rodriguez for Him (also by Kurkdjian).
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 2nd November 2007 at 07:29 AM.
    "One day I will find the right words, and they will be simple"

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  3. #3

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Just got a sample of Iris Ganache, will get back to you on this.
    Rose Barbare sounds divine.
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  4. #4

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    I love Rose Barbare

  5. #5

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    I honestly wasn't wowed by any of them...beautiful bottles, but the juice lacked for the price. They all have a heavy, gourmand tone to them (as expected), and they all dried down to smelling the same (not uncommon for Guerlain of course). They got a big "meh" from me....even the Rose, which I had really high hopes for being a rose-nut.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Quote Originally Posted by shifts View Post
    The L'Art et la Matière series from Guerlain consists of Rose Barbare (Francis Kurkdjian), Iris Ganache (Thierry Wasser), Bois d'Armenie (Annick Ménardo), Cuir Beluga (Olivier Polge) and Ang'elique Noire (Danièla Andrier). Some fine perfumers in work there...
    At the Bergdorf/Guerlain Trunk Show a couple of weeks ago I these three:
    Iris Ganache, iris and white chocolate, nice combo, but nothing to write home about.
    Bois d'Armenie, Incense "lite", I prefer my incense intense, the vanilla/benzoin note makes it a little too sweet for me.
    Angelique Noir, honestly, I can't even remember much beyond lemon and vanilla, so I guess it doesn't impress me much.
    The other new Guerlain that I tried that day, Spiritueuse Double Vanille, knocks the socks off all of these. I'm not clear on who the perfumer is. Was it J.J. Guerlain?

  7. #7

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    SDV is by Jean Paul Guerlain (back from retirement, I guess).

    I liked Bois d'Armenie a little more than you maybe, but nothing in the "L'Art et la Matière" line wowed me enough given the very high prices. I'm holding out to sample SDV too.
    Spray it, don’t say it…
    WARDROBE

  8. #8

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    At the Bergdorf/Guerlain Trunk Show a couple of weeks ago I these three:
    Iris Ganache, iris and white chocolate, nice combo, but nothing to write home about.
    Bois d'Armenie, Incense "lite", I prefer my incense intense, the vanilla/benzoin note makes it a little too sweet for me.
    Angelique Noir, honestly, I can't even remember much beyond lemon and vanilla, so I guess it doesn't impress me much.
    The other new Guerlain that I tried that day, Spiritueuse Double Vanille, knocks the socks off all of these. I'm not clear on who the perfumer is. Was it J.J. Guerlain?
    JP Guerlain.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Right, Jean-Paul Guerlain.
    Jean-Jacques Guerlain would be a hybrid of 3rd and 4th generations.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulSC View Post
    SDV is by Jean Paul Guerlain (back from retirement, I guess).

    I liked Bois d'Armenie a little more than you maybe, but nothing in the "L'Art et la Matière" line wowed me enough given the very high prices. I'm holding out to sample SDV too.
    Imagine Jean Paul Guerlain's life: retired with a good fortune, still playing around in his laboratory, just for fun, and end up with something like Spiritueuse Double Vanille. What a life. Hell my life is a bore...

    BTW: the sons were Aimé, then Jacques (not Jean-Jacques), then finally Jean Paul.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Guerlain View Post
    Imagine Jean Paul Guerlain's life: retired with a good fortune, still playing around in his laboratory, just for fun, and end up with something like Spiritueuse Double Vanille. What a life. Hell my life is a bore...
    But honey, you;re here with all of US! What are you SAYing? :wave:
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  12. #12

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Quote Originally Posted by rtamara41 View Post
    But honey, you;re here with all of US! What are you SAYing? :wave:
    rtamara41, yes we are all here in the same boat, floating on a sea of perfume ;-)

  13. #13

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    I now have Spiritueuse - and it is to die for... I commented in the German Parfumo Community but I am too lazy now to translate all that stuff into English ;-) -- but Iris Ganache is just something I will not buy, and if it were the last perfume in this world.
    Yuck. As bad as Borsari'S Violetta die Parma, IMO.
    The good thing is - everybody's skin chemistry is different - and I am sure there are people out there who would go on naked feet to get a bottle of this Iris. Well....
    kind regards,
    La Tanguera
    http://duftreise.blogspot.com/

  14. #14

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    When I received my bottles of Bois d'Armenie and Tonka Imperiale, I noticed that when the bottle was lying on the bed, some liquid leaked out of it. I used the "balloon" spray. I tried to hold it upside down and yeah it was coming out of the nozzle. I thought I got bad bottles. Because I then went to the mall to check their bottles (testers) with "balloon" spray, and turned it upside down, liquid was coming out of the nozzle as well. I think this is a common problem with L'art Matiere bottles. If you own any of the L'art et la Matiere perfumes, and you are using the balloon spray, try doing this with your bottles. You might want to switch to the normal spray like I do.
    Last edited by volley2; 24th January 2011 at 03:17 AM.

  15. #15
    Basenotes Junkie CX827's Avatar
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    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    ^That is the problem with those pump things. Prada amber the "deluxe" edition has the same problem too.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Volley, this happens with all fragrances that has this kind of spray. Never keep them attached to the bottle, they let fragrance evaporate through the fabric part of the spray.
    From this line, i love Bois d`Armenie and Tonka Imperiale. Cuir Beluga seemed oked, Angelique Noire horrible, Iris Ganache nice. I still have to try the others.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Question to those who already sampled the Tonka Impériale: Does it really smell like tonka bean ? Coumarine /Hay ?
    I am desperately seeking a perfume which has the veritable Tonka Bean smell - and not an overdose of Vanilla, which covers this very delicate scent. Any info would be greatly appreciated !
    kind regards,
    La Tanguera
    http://duftreise.blogspot.com/

  18. #18

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    @rickbr: Yeah, it sucks! The balloon spray makes it look gorgeous but because of that problem I use the normal spray. WIll check out Iris Ganache.

    @latanguera: I have Tonka Imperiale. Now, I don't really know how tonka smells like in its pure oil. For whatever it is, Tonka Imperiale smells "delish". I really love it.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Quote Originally Posted by LaTanguera View Post
    Question to those who already sampled the Tonka Impériale: Does it really smell like tonka bean ? Coumarine /Hay ?
    I am desperately seeking a perfume which has the veritable Tonka Bean smell - and not an overdose of Vanilla, which covers this very delicate scent. Any info would be greatly appreciated !
    Yes it does smell like tonka bean, not hay or vanilla. Some Guerlain boutiques display a small jar of tonka beans so that you can compare the 2 smells. TI is not pure tonka essence, of course. It is a perfume, an artistic creation. So it does include a few other notes in the background (rosemary IIRC).

  20. #20

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Tonka beans are used in certain pastry and desert recipes (macarons) and even in main courses. I'm sure it can be purchased from delicatessen or spices shops. Be careful however if you want to try real tonka beans in your recipes. It is toxic so do not exceed the recommended dose.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Thanks for your input-s. I have Tonka here as an extrait in alcohol, and as the bean and I am a 100% sucker for the scent of the stuff. Something between Hay, Almonds and Sweet Woodruff in Wine - so I am really excited to visit the Guerlain "temple" in the next week.
    If it is only half as good as it seems, this will kill the contents of my purse in a fractal of seconds only....
    kind regards,
    La Tanguera
    http://duftreise.blogspot.com/

  22. #22

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    I have two favorites...
    It's Rose Barbare which is pure class...rose-honey-greenery chypre. very lush and theatralic
    The second one is Angelique noire.....It's my favorite Guerlain's modern vanilla. I prefer this one even to SDV..
    I do not know why it is so rarelly being mentioned here...
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) Frederic Malle 1-20 2) Chanel Egoiste 3) YSL Opium pour Homme edp 4) TF Noir de Noir

    Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel

  23. #23

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    I really love all the scents from this line personally. I wore Cuir Beluga tonight!

  24. #24
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Tonka Imperiale is the only one I liked from this series.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Guerlain L'Art et la Matière

    Quote Originally Posted by rickbr View Post
    Volley, this happens with all fragrances that has this kind of spray. Never keep them attached to the bottle, they let fragrance evaporate through the fabric part of the spray.
    From this line, i love Bois d`Armenie and Tonka Imperiale. Cuir Beluga seemed oked, Angelique Noire horrible, Iris Ganache nice. I still have to try the others.
    How bad is Angelique Noire?!? How does it smell like?

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