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  1. #31

    Default Re: The revenge of chypres

    I'm with Moondeva on this issue and would like to come up with an alternative category name for these new so-called "pink chypres" - I've always detested that made up nonsensical category; it's absurd. When I first read them described as such, I laughed right out loud and wondered what the author could possibly have been thinking when coining that term.

  2. #32
    Kyra's Avatar
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    Default Re: The revenge of chypres

    Even were it not for the fact that they are quite different, I’d favor a designation that would sidestep religious wars on Basenotes. Many of the new “not really chypres” would fit on the Edwards fragrance wheel as dry woods, woody orientals and even mossy woods (some do have a mossy feel, distinct from oakmoss, but mossy all the same). I like and wear several of these orphaned fragrances (31 Rue Cambon, NR for Her, SL Chypre Rouge Tom Ford’s Moss Breches), and would love name that was both accurate and respectful. Oakmoss is an odd and musty note, by no means the most approachable in a perfume palette, but worth revisiting from time to time if it doesn’t seem to speak to you at first. I doubt I would have liked it much in my twenties. (Maybe there was a still a touch in Ma Griffe then, but it didn’t stand out to me.) But today I wore both Quadrille and Mitsouko and there are mysteries there well worth the fathoming.

    And in my never been humble opinion, if Moondeva will grace us with her wisdom, any font this side of dingbats is alright by me. In fact, lovely one, if you are reading this and have a pyramid for Quadrille, please do tell!

    And many thanks to Squeezeweasel and Moondeva for mentioning Lush; they have a store near me that I’ve never noticed and I’ll go check out Go Green and Tramp later this week.

  3. #33

    Default Re: The revenge of chypres

    It's funny - Mitsouko was my first adult fragrance (Diorissimo was the first fragrance I bought, and wore until I was around 18). I had no problem at all wearing it then. It was only as I got into my 30s that I found there were days when it had that weird musty nursing home smell - I don't know if that was down to a change in formulation, strength (I went from EDP to parfum) or my own tastes. However, there are days when it's still glorious.
    I just finished my bottle and am debating whether to get more. The parfum is now hideously expensive.

  4. #34

    Default Re: The revenge of chypres

    Oh, yuck.
    I just got a sample of Gucci by Gucci from Neiman Marcus.
    Moondeva, this is exactly why the chypre name is going to be ruined by the industry.
    "A rich, soulful chypre fragrance charmed by exotic notes and warm florals, Gucci by Gucci speaks to unabashed decadence. She who wears it is empowered, as well as enchanting."
    Notes from Gucci: guava, pear, tiare, musk, honey. Also mentioned by the retailer: chamomile, lily of the valley, orange blossom, patchouli, musk.
    Smells vinegary, like fermented fruit.
    Like childrens' candy that makes the mouth pucker.
    Ouch.
    How dare they call this a chypre?
    I'm afraid they are going to turn away a whole new generation from this genre because it is so far from the beauty of the real chypre aroma.
    How sad.

  5. #35
    moondeva's Avatar
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    Default Re: The revenge of chypres

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    Oh, yuck.
    I just got a sample of Gucci by Gucci from Neiman Marcus.
    Moondeva, this is exactly why the chypre name is going to be ruined by the industry.
    "A rich, soulful chypre fragrance charmed by exotic notes and warm florals, Gucci by Gucci speaks to unabashed decadence. She who wears it is empowered, as well as enchanting."
    Notes from Gucci: guava, pear, tiare, musk, honey. Also mentioned by the retailer: chamomile, lily of the valley, orange blossom, patchouli, musk.
    Smells vinegary, like fermented fruit.
    Like childrens' candy that makes the mouth pucker.
    Ouch.
    How dare they call this a chypre?
    I'm afraid they are going to turn away a whole new generation from this genre because it is so far from the beauty of the real chypre aroma.
    How sad.
    Thank you so much for posting this example, Purplebird7.

    It is a perfect example of why I as a true chypre lover cannot and will not 'fall into line' and go along with this travesty in the name of 'progress'.

    My heart aches just reading that and what really saddens me is that with modern attitudes once a new comer to chypres smells that and dislikes it they will arbitrarily say they 'don't like (all) chypres' and will also bad mouth them to anyone who will listen or shows an interest in them.

    Then the markets will find some other name and the beautiful genre of chypres will die / fade into oblivion...

    Mmmm, I have been pondering what to call this new genre of scents.
    Sadly, no snappy one or two syllable have emerged. The truth is most of the 'new chypres' are actually members of other already long established scent groups! As I said before SJP Covet is a Fougere, most of the others are either Wood Musks or Green Florals, and as for Gucci by Gucci that reads as nothing more than a Fruity Floral!!

    No wonder your average perfume buyer is confused...
    Favourite (Winter) Crazy Combos

    Tabu + Orange Blossom * Hermes Rouge + Bellodgia* Voleur du Roses+ Rose Ispahan * Rasa Extreme + Paris * Wood Coffee + Cafe Noir *

  6. #36

    Default Re: The revenge of chypres

    I am notoriously unimaginative at naming things, or I would suggest something.
    The characteristic which all the new chypres share is this: clashing notes.
    They must contain a sour or harsh element which keeps them from becoming too sweet or gentle, usually vetiver or patchouli.
    Now, I love vetiver and patchouli. One has to be careful in combining them with other notes, and careful not to overdo them.
    It seems that the new chypres must teeter on the edge of overdoing the vetiver or patchouli, as if the resulting earthiness or dryness must push the limits of people's tolerence.
    Additionally, I suspect that they are using synthethic woody notes in the new chypres.
    Real vetiver and patchouli are raw, pungent notes, but I can sink my nose into them and breathe without repugnance. The new chypres seem to employ weird, chemical imitations of these woods whose only functions are to contrast with the candylike sweetness of the (other) synthetic fruit and flower notes.
    To be fair, some of them succeed. Narcisso Rodriguez EDP manages to pull off a strange peach/rose/vetiver combination that is pleasing and memorable (although most people on this board much prefer the woody-musky EDT instead of the pink chypre EDP.)
    I'm guessing here, but the new chypres that do succeed seem to employ a higher percentage of natural ingredients and come from niche houses or individual perfumers.
    And, I might add, these manufacturers are less likely to drop the use of oakmoss.
    They are the only hope for the future of the genre.
    I cannot believe that most people will embrace the stuff that department stores are pushing at them in the name of chypres. I, myself, who have always loved chypres, dislike it.
    Last edited by purplebird7; 13th October 2007 at 01:56 PM.

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