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  1. #1

    Default Unsung Lutens Thread

    I've noticed that several Lutens fragrances (particularly from the exclusive line for obvious reasons) get almost no play on here at all.

    The ones I've noticed that go unnoticed are:
    Bois Oriental
    Bois et Fruits
    Bois de Violette
    La Myrrhe
    Un Bois de Sepia
    Douce Amère
    Fleurs de Citronnier

    Alot of Bois in there! Anyone notice any other unnoticed Lutens? What do you think about the ones listed here and other unsung ones?

    Are the ignored because they aren't very flashy, because no one's tried them, or because they aren't very interesting/special?

    I just want to say a few words about the ones I know of the bunch: Bois et Fruits and Bois Oriental are probably my favourites of the whole line (the ones I've tried anyway) - they're actually virtually identical - like a few different ingredients in the topnotes which despite being different end up giving the same effect - kind of like two cakes with the exact same ingredients except one cake has brown sugar as a sweetener, and another has honey.

    Unlike most lutens there are very, very subtle - no weird or loud notes or accords, no celeri or cumin, no sweaty genitals or funky beeswax, and the cedar that's in the base isn't the nasty funky cedar of Cèdre, or the really dry tongue dessicating one of Arabie - it's a soft, gentle sweet cedar, and the compositions of both are rather linear. The notes are all wrapped together like a blanket and nothing that projects loudly vs the rest.

    They're both like warm hot chocolate in front of a fireplace. Like most Lutens they're best in humidity. In dry weather though, the differences in the topnotes of the two becomes more prominent and powdery - the fruits in bois et Fruits are like dried fruits turned to powerdered spices rather than like the kind of dried fruits you'd imagine in the form of prunes, apricots and figs. The Bois Oriental topnotes are like rhum with a vanilla that's almost choclately.

    Anyways, true beauties those two, good for any season.

    Curious about what people think of these, and others.
    Last edited by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR; 4th October 2007 at 06:32 PM.
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Fleurs de Citronnier is very feminine to my taste, plus I found it rather dated, so I leave it to others.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    The bois series is great, but they're almost like a fugue: the same theme each with a different ingredient of the theme being dominant.

    I like Douce Amere, that anise and chocolate thing is nice,

    Fleurs de Citronnier I think is one of his most feminine, I smell a lot of tuberose in it. Lovely, but it kills it for me personally.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    I recall reading an article by Luca Turin in which he stated that the Bois series are slight variations upon a theme where the fragrances are quite similar to each other except for an additional note or two .. can't seem to locate the article right now.

    Fleurs de Citronnier goes unnoticed for a reason
    -

  5. #5

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    When I opened Bois et Fruits I was confused because it smelled *exactly* like Bois Oriental which I already had. I can only tell the difference if I smell them one after the other. The difference in the top notes doesn't affect at all the overall impression of the whole thing.

    Not sure why they bothered making 3 or four of these! I have two bottles of Fumerie Turque that smell more different from eachother than Bois Oriental does from Bois et Fruits! They're all variations of Femininité du Bois, which I imagine must smell exactly the same as the Eaux Boisés, so I guess they were just trying to capitalize. I think those were the original of the Lutens line in 1992.

    Fleurs de Citronnier did seem pretty standard and unimpressive when I tried it. Douce Amère I find really interesting the way it transforms from one thing to another, but I couldn't wear it - it doesn't make any sense on me. I have a sample which is for entertainment purposes only.
    Last edited by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR; 4th October 2007 at 07:56 PM.
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  6. #6

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    I get gardenia more than tubeurose out of Fleurs de Citronnier. (And I get gardenia more than lemon blossom, for that matter. And it's not a very pleasant or compelling gardenia.)
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  7. #7

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Bois de Violette is my favourite...it takes the sweetness out of Feminite du Bois, and the slight violet in the beginning creates such an interesting combination with the cedar. Absolute perfection...now if only I owned a bottle....I've been milking a tiny decant for too long now.

    I also love Clair de Musc...not sure why, its just very simple and straight forward. Clean and warm at the same time.

    My 3rd pick is Tubeurse Criminelle...shocking at first with the wintergreen blast, but it turns into the most appealling tuberose scent I've come across to date.
    Last edited by Dane; 4th October 2007 at 07:27 PM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Ok found it .. its in Turin's review of Bois de Voilette :

    http://perfumestheguide.com/samplereviews.html

    Apparently Pierre Bourdon was the strongest proponent of "overdosage"
    -

  9. #9

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    I've only tried Miel et Bois, so I can't say anything about the ones you listed.

    Seriously, I just had to stop and point out that I didn't know until today who your avatar is, zztopp!
    All this time I had just thought that you must simply resemble Gene Shalit.
    Today I found out (quite by accident) out that the pic in your avatar is that of Musc Ravageur's creator, Maurice Roucel!
    (Still getting a kick out of this one!)
    Last edited by tvlampboy; 5th October 2007 at 12:15 AM.

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    Peggy: "Yes, but he hit his head on a lawn gnome."
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    I could have sworn it was Super-Mario!
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  11. #11

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR View Post
    I could have sworn it was Super-Mario!
    LOLOLOLOLOL

    Peggy: "Right now, we have to get to the mental institution. Something terrible has happened."
    Latrelle: "What?"
    Peggy: "Brother Boy has tried to kill himself. He jumped out of his bedroom window."
    Latrelle: "Isn't he only on the second floor?"
    Peggy: "Yes, but he hit his head on a lawn gnome."
    Fr. Sordid Lives: The Series
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    "Live, live, live! Life is a banquet, and most poor suckers are starving to death."
    Auntie Mame
    [/B]

  12. #12

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Chene and Douce Amere don't get mentioned as other Lutens scents, but they're my two favorite ones.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Well then, tell us about them! I'm interested in Chene especially since it'll be available here this year.
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  14. #14

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR View Post
    Well then, tell us about them! I'm interested in Chene especially since it'll be available here this year.
    Chene is a lot different from the other Lutens frags in that it's not a complete sugarbomb. It's slightly sweet, dry, and very woody. As a result, it doesn't come off as being "feminine" as others would describe Chergui and Daim Blond. I find Chene similar to Gucci PH but it smells more like fresh oak trees rather than pencil shavings.
    Last edited by teflondog; 5th October 2007 at 08:29 AM.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Chene also doesn't develop a lot, and doesn't rely on the in-your-face opening aspect that some of his others do. It's just gorgeous woods from start to finish. I have a bell jar of it and I am going to buy again when it's at Barneys just to have back-up

  16. #16

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    My bell jar of Chene actually just arrived via FedEx only moments ago. It is exquisite. Think of a walk through the woods in the Autumn on an Indian Summer day where the sun is allowed to warm the earth - the woods, the leaves that crunch beneath your foot - gorgeous honey oak with a little bit of a smolder in the background.

    I agree that for the most part, Chene is too often overlooked. If I had know this was going to be the non-export release of the year - I would have gotten a bell jar of Iris Silver Mist instead as it's no easy feet for an American to obtain a non-export as we all know - this bottle has more stamps on it's passport than I do. But Im not sorry b/c I love my bell jar.

    I also think La Myrrhe is too often overlooked as is Mandarine-Mandarin and Rose de Nuit, all of which I would love to own. One day...
    Last edited by MarkDavid; 5th October 2007 at 06:06 PM.
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  17. #17

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Is Chene going to be part of the export line now?

    I'm dying to try Sarrasins...I love jasmin, but A La Nuit just didn't do it for me. Can anyone recommend the best way to go about getting a bell jar living in North America? I've seen them on eBay, but they seem very pricey. Is there some sort of proxy service that one could use?

  18. #18

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Ah, Un Bois de Sepia is one of my SL two bell jars and a truly beautiful fragrance, in my opinion. Lighter than might be expected given the notes, UBdS is slightly sweet, spicy, woody - gorgeous. Subtle and elegant, and wearable by both men and women.
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  19. #19

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by tmp00 View Post
    I like Douce Amere, that anise and chocolate thing is nice.
    Douce Amere is probably overlooked because of its striking similarity to Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin. Although DA is a more superior blend, it's not distinctive enough to warrant the attention that other SL scents generate. Longevity and sillage are also disappointing for a Lutens scent.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Chene is going to be available for a limited time - they do that each year with one of the non-exports.

    The only way to get a bell jar (that i know of) is have a friend who lives in Europe order it for you, and then ship it to you from their place.

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh View Post
    Is Chene going to be part of the export line now?

    I'm dying to try Sarrasins...I love jasmin, but A La Nuit just didn't do it for me. Can anyone recommend the best way to go about getting a bell jar living in North America? I've seen them on eBay, but they seem very pricey. Is there some sort of proxy service that one could use?
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  21. #21

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by GAIVS IVLIVS CAESAR View Post
    Chene is going to be available for a limited time - they do that each year with one of the non-exports.

    The only way to get a bell jar (that i know of) is have a friend who lives in Europe order it for you, and then ship it to you from their place.
    Ah, ok thanks. Is it common knowledge which of the non-exports is put in the export run each year? What was the previous one?

  22. #22

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Un Lys, Vetiver Oriental, Chergui, and Fumerie Turque have all had their moment in the export range. Sometimes your local SL retailer will still have one of the older export releases like VO in stock. Barneys to my knowledge still has FT and Chergui...
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  23. #23

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Thanks for the info...I guess I have to start paying more attention to what's in stores.

    What's Un Lys like? That's one I don't hear mentioned often...is that due to it being very feminine?

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Unsung, because I think generally not well liked: Cedre. I think it's Lutens's reinvented floriental in the same way that Feminite du Bois is considered his reinvented oriental. Dense, heavy, syrupy, alluring.
    jtd

  25. #25

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by jtd View Post
    Unsung, because I think generally not well liked: Cedre. I think it's Lutens's reinvented floriental in the same way that Feminite du Bois is considered his reinvented oriental. Dense, heavy, syrupy, alluring.
    I agree about Cedre. The dry down is one of the best I've smelled. There are a few other Lutens like this (Gris Clair for example) that have quite a different opening to the dry down. Quickly testing these in a store means you miss out on most of and the best part of the experience.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    I recall reading an article by Luca Turin in which he stated that the Bois series are slight variations upon a theme where the fragrances are quite similar to each other except for an additional note or two .. can't seem to locate the article right now.

    Fleurs de Citronnier goes unnoticed for a reason
    I think i saw that in his book.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    It isn't something I want to wear (like it on my gf), but I think La Myrrhe is the best thing he and Sheldrake ever did, and there aren't many fragrances to match its quality. Bois de Violette is a close second, and Rose de Nuit is also right there - an incredible smelling chypre with some serious soul. Not to be confused with the ridiculously prim and proper rose floral called Sa Majeste la Rose.
    Last edited by pluran; 9th July 2011 at 10:14 AM.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    Two of my three favorite Lutens mentioned here... My absolute favorite Rose de Nuit (not by Sheldrake if I recall well. Not an easy one to 'get'), which is hugely overlooked, but maybe exactly for the reason stated). Second for me is Chergui, the bell jar version, but not overlooked as such. Third, La Myrrhe, No. 5 EdP with a more oriental twist, doesn't get the appreciation it should. It's a big fragrance and certainly an entry at night.
    I've never been fond of anything from the Bois, including the original Feminite.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Unsung Lutens Thread

    I pretty much agree with what others have said here, especially Larimar.

    La Myrrhe is, to my nose, Lutens most unique fragrance. It's a dry, aldehydic oriental that exists in a world all its own.

    Rose de Nuit is one of my favorite chypres still in production; with L'Arte di Gucci and a good many others gone, it's the last great exemplar of a certain style of dense chypre that just isn't made anymore.

    I'm starting to have a change of heart regarding Cedre, but I'm not entirely sure. It's still noxiously sweet but it does have a certain medicinal something that piques my interest; only Poison is truly similar.

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