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  1. #1
    Scentronic's Avatar
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    Default Getting into Lutens

    Since I've exhausted the Creed catalogue, I've had my nose "open" to another high-end niche line. I've heard SO much about how great Serge Lutens is, and have had a small decant of Chergui and Douce Amere for a few months now. A couple weeks ago, I received a sample of Ambre Sultan, and although I didn't immediately see it as something I'd wear, I recognized it's depth and richness. It made me want to re-examine the Lutens line. I've pulled out those Chergui and DA decants a few times to sniff, but hadn't tried them on. Chergui was in my mind in the realm of Burberry London and Tea for Two (and still is), but seemed a bit too "cider-mill craft-store" for me, whilst sniffing from the open decant. I hadn't ever tried it on. I really don't seem to like Douce Amere, and every time I open it, it gets on my fingers anyway, so I didn't bother to try it on.

    So right now, I finally got around to trying on Chergui and Ambre Sultan. I'll keep this short and simple...I want them both. Where do I sign?

    So that said, I need to adventure further out into Lutens territory. I have a mystery Lutens decant on its way to me right now, so thats exciting, but I want to know where to go from here. Bois Oriental, Daim Blonde, Fumerie Turque, Iris Silver Mist, and Vetyver Oriental have all either been mentioned enough or have sparked my interest enough enough to get on my "to test" list. What can I expect from these scents? Any other reccommendations?
    Lately I've been wearing:
    Windsor, Bois de Santal, Original Santal, Elixir, Douro, Endymion, Reflection, Arcus, Marwah

  2. #2

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    You've found the best two, IMHO -- both Ambre Sultan and Chergui are rich, romantic, sensual frags, both opulent and decadent.

    If you want a totally different kind of Lutens experience, try Gris Clair. Imagine sharp, cold, rough lavender in a snow-covered forest. Bracing, harsh, spartan, beautiful and bold stuff, GC. Not for the faint of heart, though, nor (even more assuredly) for the foe of lavender.
    Gris Clair is, IMHO, everything that Chergui is not.

    Chergui makes me want to curl up by a fire with my husband and my dogs; Gris Clair makes me want to go stand in heather on the moors (none nearby, fortunately) and just be alone. It's not a melancholy fragrance for me (unlike Méchant Loup Loup), but it's my first choice for pensive moments, quiet times. Chergui is cozy wintertime suppers with cognac after, while Gris Clair is all "blow, blow, thou winter wind."
    Last edited by tvlampboy; 9th October 2007 at 04:34 AM.

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  3. #3
    Sloan's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Regarding the Serge Lutens line, test as many as you can and practice patience. You never know what you might find. I have had intense, immediate connections with some of the SL scents whereas others have required repeated wearings before I devleoped a full appreciation of them.

  4. #4
    Off-Scenter
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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Chergui and Ambre Sultan represent the most prevalent "type" in the Lutens line: sweet, almost syrupy orientals with a good deal of amber in the base. I think that Fumerie Turque, Arabie, Rahat Loukoum, Rousse, and Un Bois Vanille are to one degree or another variations on the same theme. Some of the florals, including A la Nuit and Fleurs d'Oranger also share this syrupy quality.

    Sa Majeste la Rose and Un Lys, on the other hand, are brisk, clear floral scents of tremendous verisimilitude. Muscs Koublai Khan is one of the most purely animalic fragrances on the market. It's a love-it-or-hate-it scent if ever there was one, but anyone who's serious about fragrance should probably try it at least once. Mandarine-Mandarin doesn't get as much love as many of the others, and while it's sweet, it has an unusual bitter, burnt sugar edge to it that I very much enjoy.

    Tubereuse Criminelle is a marvelous exercise in contrast - an olfactory oxymoron, in fact! It starts out with a sinus-clearing blast of menthol and eucalyptus, then reveals a crystal clear, ethereal tuberose note. The resulting accord is at once cool and sensuous, compelling and aloof. Great stuff, if you can stomach it. Chypre Rouge has never moved me, though others find it revolutionary - even revelatory. Datura Noir is very heavy on powdery almond. If you like marzipan it should appeal. Meanwhile, Daim Blond is popular, and really quite easy to like. It's a very soft, smooth leather with a lot of fruit (apricot) on top, and a delicately sweet drydown. Cuir Mauresque is a more traditional leather in my opinion, but one of tremendous quality, fit to stand beside Royal English Leather and Cuir de Russie.
    Last edited by Off-Scenter; 9th October 2007 at 04:59 AM.

  5. #5
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    I would follow this route :

    1) Encens et Lavande
    2) Borneo 1820
    3) Iris Silver Mist
    4) Cuir Mauresque
    5) Santal de Mysore (most balanced "sweet" Lutens ..sweets, spices and woods)
    6) Muscs Koublai Khan (on me its a sweet musky floral, with minute hints of the supposed animalic madness)
    7) Ambre Sultan
    8) Chergui
    9) Arabie
    -

  6. #6

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    --------------------------------------
    I agree with Tvlampboy, Gris Clair is a great, logical next step - an easy enough to find Export that stands alone in the Lutens oeurve. Muscs Koublai Khan is an essential wardrobe staple. It works alone or as a great base when you want to "sex up" another fragrance. I have come around to liking Chypre Rouge with its pine needles, it's a step away from the candied amber base that can be a bit repetitive with the Lutens line.
    Happy hunting!
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 9th October 2007 at 08:46 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  7. #7
    Scentronic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Wow thanks guys! I'm on it!
    Lately I've been wearing:
    Windsor, Bois de Santal, Original Santal, Elixir, Douro, Endymion, Reflection, Arcus, Marwah

  8. #8

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Cuir Mauresque is my absolute favourite Serge Lutens. It's a must try!
    I'm simplifying my life. For Sale Thread (some niche, some designer):
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=222407

  9. #9
    Dane's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    My favourites in the exclusive line are Bois de Violette and Tubeurese Criminelle.

    In the export line, I like Clair de Musc...sadly that's all for now.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Scentronic, do try Sa Majeste la Rose, it is the marriage of a wet green rose stem and leaf with the creamy dewy flower heart and a touch of honey to blend the crisp and the creamy.

    it's a very moist living scent.

    and of course, try all the rest others have recommended, but don't overlook this one, promise.
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  11. #11
    Dane's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Quote Originally Posted by rtamara41 View Post
    Scentronic, do try Sa Majeste la Rose, it is the marriage of a wet green rose stem and leaf with the creamy dewy flower heart and a touch of honey to blend the crisp and the creamy.

    it's a very moist living scent.

    and of course, try all the rest others have recommended, but don't overlook this one, promise.
    I find SMLR a bit...err...shampoo-y. Its also one of the more feminine scents in the line. I think I have to smell this one on a woman to see if I get a different impression.

  12. #12
    DreamerII's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Iris Silver Mist - the best iris scent
    Rahat Loukum - so addictive, so loud, so funky
    "PLAIN LIVING, HIGH THINKING" O.W., De Profundis
    Real beauty: 1) F. Malle 1-19 2) Chanel Bel Respiro 3) TF Noir de Noir 4) Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose

    Noses: 1) Jacques Cavallier 2) Maurice Roucel 3) Dominique Ropion

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    If you like cinnamon, try Rousse. Amazing stuff.
    If you like iris, try Gris Clair. Cool, medicinal and pine-y.
    If you like jasmine, try A La Nuit. A jasmine 'hand grenade'.

  14. #14
    Dane's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    I went to re-try A La Nuit at lunch today...EEK...I swear only a drop came out of the bottle, and its so strong that I feel a bit sick.

    Also, Gris Claire is at none of the stores that carry Lutens in my city...why do you think that is? Today was also the first time I've seen Fleurs D'Oranger.

  15. #15

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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    My top two Lutens so far are Ambre Sultan and Gris Clair, the latter of which I go back and forth about purchasing but have noticed that when I have it on,I'm compelled to keep smelling my arm in weird facination. It's an odd "lavender battling it out with menthol" on me. I like MKK, but when I tested it, I liked it but my partner hated it, and my friends were equally divided, so I haven't gone to the trouble of trying to get my friend in Denmark to send it to me - Paris to Demark to the US is a lot of time and money and I'm not sure it's worth all that. If they ever sell it here in the US, I'll reconsider. To me, MKK smells a bit like LV Musk, but with the muskiness kicked up to an insane level. (I actually detect very little musk in LV Musk, but they both share a rosy, powdery unisex quality.)

  16. #16
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Cuir Mauresque is the best leather fragrance I've worn, superior to Tabac Blond extrait, Chanel Cuir de Russie, Knize Ten, Derby, Antaeus and others. It's complex, somewhat dark, warm, raw, mildly animalic and extremely sensual with quality musk and one of the most skillfully blended civet notes there is. It possesses all of the necessary qualities for a great leather and has a sublime, long-lasting incense note that rivals the best of them. It's one of the most wearable leathers as well as being one of the most consistently wearable Lutens fragrances. It's smooth as butter and gets better and better the more you wear it. For spices, wood, leather and incense, there's nothing like it. Surprisingly, I didn't love CM for a couple of months, but when it clicked it was one of the most dynamic and pleasant fragrance experiences I've ever had.

    For what it's worth, I've owned a flacon of Royal English Leather for years and have never understood comparisons between the two. There's minor congruence in the general scent but that's the full extent of it. REL smells nice enough but its framework is substandard and though it has a decent drydown, it's as if it's had most of the life sucked out of it after the first thirty minutes (which are a watercolor at best). Creed's Cuir de Russie (an edgier watercolor) achieves a great deal more panache. I enjoy Creed Cuir de Russie a lot.

    My favorite Lutens fragrances:

    Chêne - " an astringent, almost bitter tincture of oaks and the mosses that festoon them in the primeval European forests..." An accurate description by Turin. This sh*it is amazing.
    Cuir Mauresque
    Muscs Koublaï Khän - The most animalic confection out there. Eighty perent of the fragrance is comprised of animalic notes. LV Musk, Musc Ravageur and the like have absolutely nothing to do with this. MKK contains loads of civet, castoreum, various musks and other dirty notes such as costus root which smells like a wet dog. Ava Luxe's Rasa Extreme parfum puts out loads of dirty animalics but in a slightly different manner.
    Santal de Mysore - an exotic woody oriental that gets better every time you wear it. Not as much interplay between notes but it's tenacious, full of spices with a cumin note that couldn't be integrated any better. The stuff smells awesome. Haven't smelled anything else like it. One of the best woody orientals out there.
    Miel de Bois - Made primarily of wood with hawthorn, iris, honey and beeswax - Contrary to the idea that he's best known for his orientals, Lutens is actually known in France as, "the man of wood scents". Honey (often considered leathery) is used widely among high-class call girls, and it's easy to see why after smelling the drydown of Miel de Bois. It's one of the most intensely sensual things I've smelled (many of the Lutens drydowns are like that). It's not feminine, just sensual as hell. Like ripe, slightly musky skin after a day of physical activity and a few hours of sleep. The final drydown of Miel de Bois is what I'm really talking about. It's good after a few hours, but not at its best for several more. It's one of those that can smell its best after twelve hours or so.
    Arabie - far more consistently wearable than some of the other orientals. It's a different animal than what's portrayed in many of the reviews, being far more transparent and even good in hot weather.
    Borneo 1834 - patchouli x dry chocolate dust, skillfully blended so that neither are presented as usual, the fragrance sucks you in rather than jumping out at you, warm and at times mildly animalic. A superior oriental staying this side of too sweet.
    Bois de Violette is an almost magically blended violet-cedar based on another great Lutens fragrance Feminite du Bois (Shiseido). If cedar didn't bore the hell out of me this would be one of my favorites. An amazing fragrance. Like Turin, I always perceive it as being very purple.
    Iris Silver Mist - superb dry iris that recalls white linen. It can wear a little flat at times and needs heat and sweat to be at its best. For pure, raw iris, it's hard to beat.
    Chergui is one of the dynamics of perfumery. It's a powerhouse that I love to just smell from the bottle. It's one of the best things I've smelled on a woman. Like warm, mildly sweet wood oozing massive amounts of sensuality. Also great on a man but it's best applied in the walk-through method. It can get overwhelming if sprayed full blast. Same goes for Ambre Sultan. If there's a better amber scent, I don't know what it is. Powerful stuff and smells f*cking outrageous. Prime herbs and spices, the best balsams, benzoin, amber, patchouli, sandalwood and musk. Fumerie Turque is a beauty that gets more of its sweetness from Peru Balsam, esp. in the extended drydown.

    I've been wearing Chypre Rouge and like it a lot. After a few wearings it's nothing like many of the reactionary reviews. Has loads of well-blended of oakmoss (two kinds), not nearly as sweet as first impressions, a lot of labdanum and an excellent (very sensual) beeswax drydown. It's complex, exotic and satisfying.

    Gris Clair is superb, though it gets persistently sweet in the drydown.
    Rousse is a more common and tedious amber oriental that I'm surprised was released. Santal Blanc smells good but also becomes monotonous soon enough.

    There are several others but I'm tired of writing. Tubereuse Criminelle, Rose de Nuit, A la Nuit and Encens et Lavande are all excellent. Same goes for Cedre. It took me time to love that one but now that I do it's carved in stone. It's actually one of the ones I like most, another one with more wood and less oriental features.

    Like most fragrances, one must try them over a period of several months or more to know much about them.

    "...What Lutens wants, and often gets, is for each idea (or raw material) to be fleshed out precisely to the point where it ceases to need company but retains its soul entire..."

    The Lutens fragrances are always a team effort. Lutens chooses the raw materials and Sheldrake is the blacksmith. Iris Silver Mist is one of the few that wasn't made by Sheldrake. Supposedly it was made by Maurice Roucel.

    All of the Lutens fragrances are EDP's, making some of the orientals esp. nuclear. This is often the case with men's EDP's, a couple of good examples being Opium EDP and Heritage EDP. Both of which I have a hard time wearing due to the persistently sweet drydowns.

    ------------------

    Clarification: As good as some of the Lutens orientals are, there are none of them that I like as much as Balenciaga Pour Homme (a rich, less sweet oriental with more edge than most of the Lutens orientals)

    The only Lutens fragrances I wear with any regularity lately are Cuir Mauresque, Chêne, Muscs Koublaï Khän, Santal de Mysore, Arabie and Cedre.

    Also, high-class call girls often use a lot of honey dust, not regular honey.
    Last edited by pluran; 10th October 2007 at 06:50 PM.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran;1074751[I
    What Lutens wants, and often gets, is for each idea (or raw material) to be fleshed out precisely to the point where it ceases to need company but retains its soul entire.[/I]
    Well done!

  18. #18

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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Chene and Iris Silver Mist are my absolute favorites. I enjoy Rousse, Mandarine-Mandarin, Arabie, and Ambre Sultan as well.
    "To be irreplaceable, one must always be different!" - Coco Chanel

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  19. #19
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Cuir Mauresque is the best leather fragrance I've worn, superior to Tabac Blond extrait, Chanel Cuir de Russie, Knize Ten, Derby, Antaeus and others. It's deep, rich, ultra-smooth and sensual with one of the most skillfully blended civet notes there is. It possesses all of the necessary qualities for a great leather and has a sublime, long-lasting incense note that rivals the best of them. It's one of the most wearable leathers as well as being one of the most consistently wearable Lutens fragrances. It's smooth as butter and gets better and better the more you wear it. For spices, wood, leather and incense, there's nothing like it.

    For what it's worth, I've owned a flacon of Royal English Leather for years and have never understood comparisons between the two. There's minor congruence in the general scent but that's the full extent of it. REL smells nice enough but its framework is substandard and though it has a decent drydown, it's as if it's had most of the life sucked out of it after the first thirty minutes (which are a watercolor at best).
    I agree with Plurans comment that there's nothing similar between REL and Cuir Mauresque. CM and Tabac Blond? Yes. CM and REL? I dont see anything. While I agree on that, I don't agree with Pluran designating REL a "watercolor" scent...its one of the most tenacious, longlasting, and rich leather fragrances I have worn. Simple construction? Yes, its an old world scent composed of few ingredients. But those few ingredients conjure a dynamite buttery leather accord which is amongst the best there is. By comparison, Antaeus, Derby, and some others seem watercolorish (Chanels Cuir de Russie EDT is pretty thin and watery by comparison as well).

    The only way REL is similar to the Lutens is that like most oriental lutens, it lasts well over 10 hours.
    -

  20. #20

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Quote Originally Posted by tvlampboy View Post
    You've found the best two, IMHO -- both Ambre Sultan and Chergui are rich, romantic, sensual frags, both opulent and decadent.

    If you want a totally different kind of Lutens experience, try Gris Clair. Imagine sharp, cold, rough lavender in a snow-covered forest. Bracing, harsh, spartan, beautiful and bold stuff, GC. Not for the faint of heart, though, nor (even more assuredly) for the foe of lavender.
    Gris Clair is, IMHO, everything that Chergui is not.

    Chergui makes me want to curl up by a fire with my husband and my dogs; Gris Clair makes me want to go stand in heather on the moors (none nearby, fortunately) and just be alone. It's not a melancholy fragrance for me (unlike Méchant Loup Loup), but it's my first choice for pensive moments, quiet times. Chergui is cozy wintertime suppers with cognac after, while Gris Clair is all "blow, blow, thou winter wind."
    Gris Clair indeed. It's the only Lutens I own, and my favourite (among those I've tried). It's extremely unusual, and definitely evokes a certain mood. It's also one of the only SL fragrances that smells definably masculine... not that I'm afraid of florals, but Gris Clair doesn't have the syrupy sweetness to the same extent as other SL fragrances (which also makes it wearable in summer, in very small amounts).

    Pluran: It's good to see someone liking Chypre Rouge around here. I love the stuff, though I wouldn't wear it on a daily basis. I think it's highly reactive to skin chemistry.
    Last edited by Maxwell; 10th October 2007 at 05:36 AM.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    I'm envious of the love for Lutens. Personally, I can't stand this house. There are so many where the top notes are outstanding, only to eventually turn into a honey, hay, farm house fuzz that makes me ill. Seriously, ill. Daim Blond is my favorite from this house; outside of that, I'm puzzled how anyone else can enjoy them. I'm clearly in the minority.

    TNMA
    "Why not seize the pleasure at once?"
    -- Jane Austen (Sun, and Mercury in Sagittarius)

  22. #22

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    I really can't add anymore, other than look in my wardrobe.

    As for Cuir Mauresque, I'm now really intrigued by this one. A week in Paris beckons, in a few days time, and I still haven't received my Montales...

  23. #23

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    After an intense sampling session at Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido, I must say that the breathe and range of Mr Lutens creations is awe inspiring. The clear perfection of Iris Silver Mist, the old school leather charms of Cuir Mauresque that shares so much with Tabac Blonde, the peerless sensuality of Muscs Koublaï Khän and Chypre Rouge's complicated take on the classic genre all leave me speechless. In 20 years time, it will be interesting to see which of these creations will join the ranks of legend.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    After an intense sampling session at Les Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido, I must say that the breathe and range of Mr Lutens creations is awe inspiring. The clear perfection of Iris Silver Mist, the old school leather charms of Cuir Mauresque that shares so much with Tabac Blonde, the peerless sensuality of Muscs Koublaï Khän and Chypre Rouge's complicated take on the classic genre all leave me speechless. In 20 years time, it will be interesting to see which of these creations will join the ranks of legend.
    So, what did you buy in the end?

  25. #25

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Quote Originally Posted by Trebor View Post
    So, what did you buy in the end?
    After all that I left empty handed! The USD $ is worth nothing in Europe, and after buying 3 Montales, Nicolai's New York and Guerlain's new version of Voile de Nuit, I couldn't justify another purchase. I still have 1/2 a bottle of Santal de Mysore left from my last trip to Paris in March. I will get either MKK or ISM on my next trip.

  26. #26
    Scentronic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Is Iris Silver Mist "Dior-ish" at all? (Dior Homme, Bois d'Argent)
    Lately I've been wearing:
    Windsor, Bois de Santal, Original Santal, Elixir, Douro, Endymion, Reflection, Arcus, Marwah

  27. #27

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Quote Originally Posted by Scentronic View Post
    Is Iris Silver Mist "Dior-ish" at all? (Dior Homme, Bois d'Argent)
    Not at all. It's very dry, almost arid and not the least bit-gourmand. It does not evoke the smell of make-up like DH does.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Refresh my memory of the MKK --- oddly, my new affair with Chanel no 5, in which the musk and civet are making themselves known in the drydown, made me think of MKK, which I sampled over a year ago.
    do tell.
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  29. #29

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Quote Originally Posted by rtamara41 View Post
    Refresh my memory of the MKK --- oddly, my new affair with Chanel no 5, in which the musk and civet are making themselves known in the drydown, made me think of MKK, which I sampled over a year ago.
    do tell.
    Musk, dirty, warm and slightly sweet. Castoreum, civet, cumin, etc. No aldehydes to my knowledge. MKK is the opposite of white musk.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    thanks. sounds like I may need to seek this one out.
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  31. #31
    Scentronic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    Eh, that doesn't really sound like my bag. But I'd still like to try it!
    Lately I've been wearing:
    Windsor, Bois de Santal, Original Santal, Elixir, Douro, Endymion, Reflection, Arcus, Marwah

  32. #32

    Default Re: Getting into Lutens

    I have mixed reactions to musk... I wore a very soft clean musk as a teenager as a staple. Have not come across anything like it as an adult.
    But I love Rasa, which is roses and musk, and I love the musk in the drydown of no 5
    Again my first impression of MKK was nasty. But given my experiences with changing my impressions of fragrances over the past year, one can never tell.
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

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