I don't know about your second question, the one on Issey, so I 'm sorry I can't help there.
For a fall scent for you under the criteria you mention, I'd point your nose to Guerlain's L'Instant Pour Homme. Of course you might not like it when you smell it, but I didn't either. A few tests and a full wearing later, it won me over and I think it deserves a lot more attention and use than it gets, at least from me, and maybe the forum too. Who knows. That's the one I'd suggest you try out.