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  1. #1

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    Default Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    My therapist and I have worked through to an acceptance of the fact that I will most likely never own, nor dare I say it never even smell, Patou Pour Homme. So as not to become totally depressed, however, I wonder- - - are there any currently available fragrances that approximate that supposedly heavenly juice?
    Currently wearing: Benedictus by Excelsis

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    No need to feel depressed, I am sure some of the folks here who own multiple bottles of this juice can make "arrangements" to let your nose inhale these magical vapors
    -

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    The short answer: none. At least none that I've tried.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Hey,

    PM me and I may be able to help.
    But no, sadly there is nothing like Patou. It is something everyone with an interest in fragrance should at least try.

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  5. #5

    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Previous threads on this topic commonly feature answers like Creed BdP (especially) and Geurlain Heritage. Were these approximations made in error? I've never smelled PpH either, but I've smelled both of the prior.
    Last edited by LiveJazz; 16th October 2007 at 02:33 AM.
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  6. #6

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    Cool Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    The closest cousin would be Versailles PH. Also warm and elegant.

    Also discontinued . . .


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  7. #7
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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Quote Originally Posted by LiveJazz View Post
    Previous threads on this topic commonly feature answers like Creed BdP (especially) and Geurlain Heritage. Were these approximations made in error? I've never smelled PpH either, but I've smelled both of the prior.
    Bois du Portugal and Heritage might be in the same general scent family as Patou pour Homme, but neither much resembles it.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?


    Nothing even comes approximately close in my opinion.

    scentemental

    Last edited by scentemental; 16th October 2007 at 02:51 AM.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    The Perfumed Court sells a sample I believe.......
    "I have the simplest tastes. I am always satisfied with the best." - Oscar Wilde (1854-1900)

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    An SA at Saks told me she thought Duc de Vervins by Houbigant resembled PPH. I have never smelled PPH, so I can't confirm this. And looking at the above replies, somehow I think she might be wrong.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 16th October 2007 at 03:13 AM.
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  11. #11
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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    How about this for recreating the smell: try layering MPG Eau des Iles with Terre D'Hermes
    -

  12. #12

    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Mario Justiniani's right -- Versailles comes closer than anything I can think of. (Of course, it's so discontinued/comparably difficult to find that that leaves one with a difficult dilemma.)

    I'm with MikePerez, too, in wanting to sample Duc de Vervins sometime -- esp. before Houbigant yanks it off the market again as they did a few years back.

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  13. #13

    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    An SA at Saks told me she thought Duc de Vervins by Houbigant resembled PPH. I have never smelled PPH, so I can't confirm this. And looking at the above replies, somehow I think she might be wrong.

    Mike,

    She's not only wrong, she's categorically wrong.

    Duc de Vervins is an entirely lavender dominated, sharp class Aromatic Fougère, which is closer to Patou Pour Homme Prive, also a Aromatic Fougère. Even with these two, the differences are substantial. It would take a detailed post to expound such differences. Suffice it to say that Duc de Vervins is even not even close to approximating Patou Pour Homme, a Spicy Woody Oriental with pedigree Chypre features along with fougère elements interwoven into the whole design. As I have said elsewhere with regard to Patou Pour Homme
    one of the most intriguing, defining, and as yet inimitable characteristics of Patou Pour Homme is its astoundingly adept integration of spices and herbal elements into what is really a classic chypre architecture. While there's a touch of lavender in the top notes, it and the green herbal elements hardly constitute a significant sustained presence or predominance to qualify Patou Pour Homme even remotely as an Aromatic Fougère. I would even dispute Osmoz categorization of it as simply an Oriental Fougère, it;s a lot more complex than that. But categorical distinctions aside, and to put it more simply, Duc de Vervins smells nothing, I repeat nothing like Patou Pour Homme.

    scentemental

    Last edited by scentemental; 21st October 2007 at 03:12 AM.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Quote Originally Posted by scentemental View Post
    Mike,

    She's not only wrong, she's categorically wrong.

    Duc de Vervins is an entirely lavender dominated, sharp class Aromatic Fougère, which is closer to Patou Pour Homme Prive, also a Aromatic Fougère. Even with these two, the differences are substantial. It would take a detailed post to expound such differenecs. Suffice it to say that Duc de Vervins is even not even close to approximating Patou Pour Homme, a Spicy Woody Oriental with pedigree Chypre features, with a trace of the Fougère interwoven into the whole design. As I have said elsewhere with regard to Patou Pour Homme
    one of the most intriguing, defining, and as yet inimitable characteristics of Patou Pour Homme is its astoundingly adept integration of spices and herbal elements into what is really a classic chypre architecture. While there's a touch of lavender in the top notes, it and the green herbal elements hardly constitute a significant sustained presence or predominance to qualify Patou Pour Homme even remotely as an Aromatic Fougère. I would even dispute Osmoz categorization of it as simply an Oriental Fougère, it;s a lot more complex than that. But categorical distinctions aside, and to put it more simply, Duc de Vervins smells nothing, I repeat nothing like Patou Pour Homme.

    scentemental

    I think you are right. I think she was referring to the Patou Pour Homme Prive in her DdV comparison. She said that she had actually smelled the PPHP and she loved it (on her husband) but that it was almost impossible to buy, and that's when she started talking about the DdV.

    I didn't realize that the PPHP was an aromatic fougere and PPH was an oriental with those herbal characteristics. How neat.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 16th October 2007 at 05:15 AM.
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  15. #15

    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Quote Originally Posted by tvlampboy View Post
    Mario Justiniani's right -- Versailles comes closer than anything I can think of. (Of course, it's so discontinued/comparably difficult to find that that leaves one with a difficult dilemma.)

    I'm with MikePerez, too, in wanting to sample Duc de Vervins sometime -- esp. before Houbigant yanks it off the market again as they did a few years back.

    While Versailles Pour Homme has similar notes to Patou Pour Homme on paper, the execution and hence the experience of that scent is entirely different.

    In Versailles Pour Homme, the galbanum is predominant in the top and middle notes and sharply and aromatically so with a strong floral component (jasmine for one; there are no floral notes in Patou Pour Homme), and the heart and increasingly the base notes are dominated by a very 1970s early 1980s unapologetic and not so subtle use of leather. The leather element in Patou Pour Homme is, at most, liminal; it plays a subsidiary role as a back note that rounds out the spices and the sharpness of the herbal elements. In Versailles Pour Homme, the leather is up front and prominent. It's a leather based fragrance. You can't say the same about Patou Pour Homme. There is none of the understated deft interplay of spice and herbal elements, the smouldering slow release of spices cooled and restrained by the modulation of the foug
    ère elements (lavender, galbanum, and clary sage) that you have in Patou Pour Homme anywhere in Versailles Pour Homme at the same level of salience let alone extensiveness. Again, the experience of wearing Versailles Pour Homme and wearing Patou Pour Homme is miles apart. I just sold a bottle of Versailles Pour Homme to a fellow Basenoter, so I am not just going on memory here. Sorry to disagree, but it's hardly an approximation.

    scentemental


    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I think you are right. I think she was referring to the Patou Pour Homme Prive in her DdV comparison. She said that she had actually smelled the PPHP and she loved it (on her husband) but that it was almost impossible to buy, and that's when she started talking about the DdV.

    I didn't realize that the PPHP was an aromatic fougere and PPH was an oriental with those herbal characteristics. How neat.

    Well, if she was referring to Patou Pour Homme Prive, then certainly the suggestion was a reasonably good one.

    One difference between the two--and why I wouldn't recommend Duc de Vervins as a replacement for Patou Pour Homme Prive--has a lot to do with the way the lavender note is constituted in both fragrances. In Duc de Vervins, it's sharp as a result of the being constituted predominantly by Linalyl Acetate, the major constituent in quality lavender oil. In Patou Pour Homme Prive, you get that creamy smooth heavenly lavender note because, I suspect, the lavender accord is constituted differently through the use of lavender absolute and lavandin absolute in which the Linalyl Acetate content is significantly lower and as a result so is the sharpness.

    scentemental
    Last edited by scentemental; 21st October 2007 at 03:15 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  16. #16

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    Cool Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Well, as always, I must bow to scentemental's knowledge.
    Versailles does 'share some notes' which, to my less trained nose, felt warm and elegant. These are merely adjectives, I know. But I consider Patou PH THE ultimate warm and elegant frag

    ( which I obviously liked better than Versailles, as I went through it in no time )

    So, I'd be interested if anyone knows and loves any other warm & elegant frags ---even if they don't smell like Patou.
    ---------------------------------------------------------------

    As to Duc de Vervins

    (which some may consider elegant, but it sure isn't warm)

    I have to be less than enthusiastic.
    I owned it, and I'll spare you searching it in my wardrobe under 'owned'----unless you want to see how I blew $$ on over 90 frags I first got a 1ml vial, then the bottle--then grew weary very fast.

    This was my brief review of DdV:

    " Hmm . . .I used to love this one when I first got hooked into this addiction, but then----well, perhaps I'm just jaded, but it doesn't hold a candle these days to my favorite 5 star fragrances whether they're woods, fougere, or boardroom powerhouse scents.
    *sigh*
    Farewell! "

    ---------------------------------------------------------


    Cheers,

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  17. #17

    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mario Justiniani View Post
    Well, as always, I must bow to scentemental's knowledge.
    Versailles does 'share some notes' which, to my less trained nose, felt warm and elegant. These are merely adjectives, I know. But I consider Patou PH THE ultimate warm and elegant frag

    ( which I obviously liked better than Versailles, as I went through it in no time )

    So, I'd be interested if anyone knows and loves any other warm & elegant frags ---even if they don't smell like Patou.
    ---------------------------------------------------------------

    As to Duc de Vervins

    (which some may consider elegant, but it sure isn't warm)

    I have to be less than enthusiastic.
    I owned it, and I'll spare you searching it in my wardrobe under 'owned'----unless you want to see how I blew $$ on over 90 frags I first got a 1ml vial, then the bottle--then grew weary very fast.

    This was my brief review of DdV:

    " Hmm . . .I used to love this one when I first got hooked into this addiction, but then----well, perhaps I'm just jaded, but it doesn't hold a candle these days to my favorite 5 star fragrances whether they're woods, fougere, or boardroom powerhouse scents.
    *sigh*
    Farewell! "

    ---------------------------------------------------------


    Cheers,

    Mario
    Don't know that I deserve such graciousness Mario, but I accept it with thanks. You know where I am coming from I am sure.

    With regards to warm and elegant, I love such fragrances. I wish there were more of them. I think Héritage EDP (the vintage formulation before it was changed sometime in the last seven years; actually, even the changed one is finally okay once it settles down) is an extraordinarily warm and elegant fragrance.

    BTW, not that it's a close approximation to Patou Pour Homme, but I think in terms of effect (mastery of blending difficult elements into a smooth unified evolving whole) vintage
    Héritage EDP is about as close to the overall feel of Patou Pour Homme and about as close as anyone will ever get in terms of skill.

    I've recommed this before as an excellent fragrance, if one likes Bois du Portugal EDP, and that is Les Néréides Oriental Lumpur. I actually prefer it over BdP for personal reasons; I think it's that good.

    Here are some others you might want to consider if you already haven't:

    Bois 1920 1920 Extreme
    Hermèssence Poivre Samarcande
    Kanebo Goce EDC (very hard to find, if not impossible)
    Léonard Pour Homme
    Les Copains Pour Homme
    Molyneux Captain Molyneux
    Nina Ricci Ricci Club Pour Homme EDT Haute Concentration
    Parfums de Nicolaï Carre d’As

    Best regards,

    scentemental



    Last edited by scentemental; 21st October 2007 at 03:16 AM.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    I'm surprised to see Oriental Lumpur recommended "if you like BdP". I like them both, so the recommendation would work for me, it's just that they're dissimilar enough that I could imagine someone liking one without liking the other. OL is so cumin-heavy and devoid of sweetness (and does it have any lavender up front? I don't notice it amidst all the spice...). It's one of the scents I classified as a non-dessert gourmand in a recent thread. Still, I should sniff it side by side with BdP; I'll probably appreciate both scents more if I understand the basis for scentemental's comparison...

    I don't hold out much hope of ever smelling PPH or PPHP -- I know I could purchase a decant, or beg for a sample here at Basenotes, but I'm not sure there's much point given that there's no affordable way to purchase a larger quantity should I happen to love it.
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  19. #19

    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulSC View Post
    I'm surprised to see Oriental Lumpur recommended "if you like BdP". I like them both, so the recommendation would work for me, it's just that they're dissimilar enough that I could imagine someone liking one without liking the other. OL is so cumin-heavy and devoid of sweetness (and does it have any lavender up front? I don't notice it amidst all the spice...). It's one of the scents I classified as a non-dessert gourmand in a recent thread. Still, I should sniff it side by side with BdP; I'll probably appreciate both scents more if I understand the basis for scentemental's comparison...

    I don't hold out much hope of ever smelling PPH or PPHP -- I know I could purchase a decant, or beg for a sample here at Basenotes, but I'm not sure there's much point given that there's no affordable way to purchase a larger quantity should I happen to love it.
    PaulSC,

    My response to a thread titled Something Similar to Bois du Portugal should provide you with the basis of my comparison:


    "The only fragrance I've encountered that is consistently close [in feel] throughout its drydown to Bois du Portugal is Les Néréides' Oriental Lumpur. Of course, it's missing the fougère (lavender) element that Bois du Portugal has in the top notes along with the exquisitely elegant orangey citrus top note, but it more than makes up for it as it dries down and continually echoes decidedly Bois du Portugal's seriously somber elegance and assured blending of spices and woods. Ignore the moronic reviews on Luckyscent.com which can only claim that Oriental Lumpur smells of curry or like an Indian restaurant. This is one of the most adept and careful blending of spices and woods and one of the most elegant orientals one is likely to find."

    The last point I make in the above passage is where I find the congruence. A congruence--as the added square brackets suggest above--is all I am claiming.

    I don't like BdP Creed signature drydown; it's what ruins it for me. Turns it into something horrid on my skin.

    I hope this helps.

    scentemental


    Last edited by scentemental; 16th October 2007 at 05:59 AM.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Thanks for the clarification, scentemental. I always appreciate your way of talking about fragrance so perceptively.

    Cheers!
    Spray it, don’t say it…
    WARDROBE

  21. #21

    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Quote Originally Posted by PaulSC View Post
    Thanks for the clarification, scentemental. I always appreciate your way of talking about fragrance so perceptively.

    Cheers!
    Thank you PaulSC,

    It's my pleasure, and you're, certainly, more than welcome.

    scentemental

  22. #22

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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    First of all, as mentioned by everybody else, Patou PH is unique. I sometimes use Monsieur Carven, also discontinued, as a substitute.

    Patou PH: http://www.basenotes.net/ID26121270.html
    Carven Monsieur: http://www.basenotes.net/ID26121120.html

  23. #23

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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    I've said this before in other threads, but I think Nino Cerruti is at least reminiscent of Patou PH. It lacks the distinct oriental character, but there's something that makes me associate the two scents.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    I hate to disagree with the comparisons to Versailles pour Homme, but to my nose they are completely different.
    I agree with Dry Martini that Blend 30 from Dunhill is the closest you can get. It's like a slightly greener version of Patou pour Homme.
    Last edited by david; 25th May 2015 at 07:04 PM.

  25. #25

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    Cool Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Quote Originally Posted by scentemental View Post
    .

    Here are some others you might want to consider if you already haven't:

    Bois 1920 1920 Extreme
    Hermèssence Poivre Samarcande
    Kanebo Goce EDC (very hard to find, if not impossible)
    Léonard Pour Homme
    Les Copains Pour Homme
    Molyneux Captain Molyneux
    Nina Ricci Ricci Club Pour Homme EDT Haute Concentration
    Parfums de Nicolaï Carre d’As

    Best regards,

    scentemental





    Curse you, scentemental! Now that's 8 others I have to try!!

    I really should get hooked on drugs, this hobby has gotten much too addictive and expensive.

    I've only heard of Hermèssence Poivre Samarcande among the ones you mentioned.

    ( btw, folks I wouldn't have heard of Patou in the first place but for scentemental )

    As to your other suggestions, I've only tried Heritage in edt. Good juice, but I think Zino-- which came first-- is more complex.
    And I'm in the tiny minority here on BN who shrug at BdP


    Pity the forum doesn't allow samples anymore

    Ah, well . . .

    Cry me a River,

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  26. #26
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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Based on these comments I assume that this is a safe blind buy? (I love Heritage and BdP)--I have a source that sells this for $45

  27. #27
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    Wink Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Quote Originally Posted by Oviatt View Post
    Based on these comments I assume that this is a safe blind buy? (I love Heritage and BdP)--I have a source that sells this for $45
    ...
    Last edited by david; 25th May 2015 at 07:04 PM.

  28. #28

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    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Interesting discussion, gents! I own and appreciate each of the scents mentioned in this thread, with the exception of Oriental Lumpur. Upon my first reading and contemplation of this thread I generated the following thoughts:

    I agree that Patou Pour Homme is really not well-approximated by either BdP or Heritage; these two wear more warmly on my skin, both slightly more ambery and spicy than Patou PH. I think that both Trussardi Uomo and Monsieur Carven are better approximations of Patou PH, and both Romeo Gigli’s Sud Est and Nina Ricci’s Ricci Club might also be close..

    I find that Trussardi Uomo has a very similar overall vibe to Patou PH, even if TU is slightly stronger, drier, darker and more floral. While not bone-dry, they are both quite dry, and they share a similar-feeling oakmoss, patchouli, and sandalwood drydown. While it seems nearly every 80's-era men's scent featured these elements in their drydowns, it still amazes me the different effects that were and can be reached.

    Monsieur Carven is also quite close in character to Patou PH. They share similar topnotes, with the cinnamon in MC substituting for the pepper in PPH. MC features rose/carnation as its floral elements, versus PPH's use of clary sage to help round out the midnotes. MC also features oakmoss, sandalwood and patchouli in the drydown, and adds a slight touch of vanilla. The overall vibe is perhaps a little bit more different than between PPH and Trussardi - MC warmer, though not as warm as BdP or Heritage.


    These were my initial thoughts. But then I got home last night after work and decided to compare and contrast all of these on my actual skin, along with Versailles PH and Jules. I dabbed or sprayed lightly onto a cotton ball and then applied a light, silver dollar-size application of each to varying points on my hands, wrists, and arms. These are my actual resulting impressions.

    Patou PH: Ah, I remember this…beautiful! A citrus, peppery opening with readily apparent oakmoss. Very masculine, and off-dry.

    Monsieur Carven: Also a masterpiece. Very nearly the same “register” as Patou PH; a very similar citric, spicy opening, only with cinnamon versus pepper. Very compelling and arguably a more modern smell than Patou PH. Both are captivating.

    Trussardi Uomo: Wow! Against the first two this is nearly bone-dry, Havana-like. Trussardi Uomo does not have the full complement of topnotes like the first two, but what is underneath (in the mid- and basenotes) smells in the same ballpark. Oakmoss and carnation are immediately obvious in this one. Can’t get over how dry this one is.

    Jules: Hmmm…I don’t have much experience with Jules, even if I have it. It smells quite similar to and, of these first four, closest to Trussardi Uomo. It again doesn’t have the full-bodied topnotes of the first two, and it is a little drier than them (though not as dry as the Trussardi). Jules is very much a prototypical 80s power fragrance. Off in the distance a somewhat similar mid- and basenotes profile as the others beckons.

    Versailles Pour Homme: Whoa! This is dramatically different than either Patou PH or Monsieur Carven. What makes it very different is the very sharp smell of a urine-like note. Yes, the dreaded urine-like note. What is it? I suspect it may be the pine note mixing with the fruit and/or green notes that are described as contributing to Versailles olfactory pyramid. Or perhaps my recently received, new-old-stock, unused 3.0 oz. bottle has gone off? At any rate, this is the odd-man-out of the seven I am testing, and will remain so throughout this test.

    Ricci Club: This is a very nice scent, with a crisp citrus and floral opening. There is also peach in this scent, which lends a slightly sweeter, rounder, softer character to Ricci Club than either Patou PH or Monsieur Carven. Ricci Club is in the same general neighborhood as the others here, but not on the same block.

    Romeo Gigli Sud Est: This is another discontinued gem, and it opens with a touch of bergamot amidst the multiple herbs and floral elements. It is quite dry, akin to Jules, and one can also appreciate the potential for a similar drydown to the others.

    So, how did these evolve?

    After 30 minutes Patou PH and Monsieur Carven are definitely converging, becoming almost one. Monsieur Carven is clearly the most similar to Patou PH from among the six possibilities here. This similarity will persist now all the way to the end, some 6-8 hours later. They are virtually dead ringers, as I’d suspected they might.

    Versailles PH continued to be noticeably different from its compatriots, though the sharp opening note dissipated and made for a reasonable pleasant drydown. There is little spice apparent in Versailles at this late stage, and this significantly distinguishes it from both Patou PH and Monsieur Carven.

    Jules and Trussardi Uomo become nearly one after six hours; each will last another four hours. These are both intense powerhouses, and rank among the most masculine scents from the 80s. That said, I like where they both end up.

    Ricci Club dries down slightly more sweet than the rest, and without much spice. It is very pleasant, somewhat fresh when compared against the rest here.

    Sud Est, finally, smells pretty similar to Jules and Trussardi Uomo at the six-hour-mark. All are very masculine, with Trussardi the driest and arguably with the most patchouli, Sud Est the muskiest, and Jules the leatheriest.

    So, in summary, Monsieur Carven has clearly shown itself (to me) to be closest of those tested to Patou PH. Sadly, both of these are discontinued, along with Sud Est and Versailles PH. So ends my 80s most-like-a-legend comparison test.

  29. #29
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Pacific Northwest
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    7,392

    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    Nada.
    Last edited by pluran; 29th September 2010 at 03:05 AM.

  30. #30

    Default Re: Patou Pour Homme Approximations?

    To this nose, nothing even comes close to approximating the singular Jean Patou Pour Homme. If only someone would reverse engineer this baby and make a lot needy men happy.

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