Thread: Chandler Burr on civet...
I am marvelling not about a niche perfume who never smelled Civet, as ZZtopp does, but rather as how Mister Blurr never did.
Is it not a fundamental ingredients of trafditional Perfumery?
He is rather ingenuous in believing that natural civet is still used in mass perfumery.
Now about Civet, which I adore (I am French), I recieve my paste directly from Ethyopia and the most usual way sellers use to tamper it is to add fat, but when you put it into alcohool it does not dissolve and is easily identified. The paste contains about 45% of absolute, which is the substance actually used by perfumers to compose (they are really few to do it).
The quality check is simple, you need a nose and some "mouillettes", but above all you need a sample of the top quality paste. Any dilution is immediately noticed by the strengh of the smell, and time passing makes it all the more evident.
Civet paste will smell for several month on the paper strips, and it looses its feacal odour in a few days. The lasting note that lasts for month is exactly like ambrette. Probably Dcampben can explain to us if there is some ambrettolide in the paste.
A profumista (or a perfumer) in search of the Civet paste just has to tape "Civet paste" on google. It is so easy that it is also marvelling that Mister Blurr did not try it before.