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  1. #1
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    mikeperez23's Avatar
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    Default Trivia from Chandler Burr's article in O Magazine (Oct. '07 issue)

    Chandler Burr wrote an article titled 'If Perfume be the Food of Love..." in the October 2007 issue of O Magazine (Oprah Winfrey's magazine) and although the article itself was mostly a promotion of Mr. Burr's Scent Dinner series at Rosewood hotels - the article offered a few things (new, atleast, to me) I thought I'd share with you Basenoters:

    1. Angel by Thierry Mugler uses ethyl maltol, the molecule that gives cotton candy its smell
    2. He mentions a ginger fragrance, Eau de Gingembre by Roger & Gallet, that I don't think I've ever heard anyone on Basenotes mention. It sounds divine.
    3. To create the 'green mango peel' note in Un Jardin sur le Nil by Hermes, perfumer JC Ellena warmed the mango peel with a natural carrot essence.
    4. When the perfume executives at Estee Lauder were introduced to a natural pink peppercorn material made by Fermenich (a scent pure and exotic and lovely), they made a decision to buy 100% of the entire inventory from Fermenich so that noone could get their hands on it at any price, for a premium price. The Lauder perfumers mixed this pink peppercorn into their scent (for women) Pleasures
    5. Sel de Vetiver by The Different Company was made to smell like salt and perfumer Celine Ellena made the scent of salt with, principally, three raw materials: liveche feuille, an herb that grows in France; a synthetic molecule called salicylate; and iris resin
    6. Black Orchid by Tom Ford contains an extract of sugarcane from the rum distillation process
    7. Annick Mendardo, created Hypnotic Poison by Dior with a slightly toxic vanilla scent - you smell vanilla but with an edge of the plastic bottle it comes in also
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

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  2. #2
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    Default Re: Trivia from Chandler Burr's article in O Magazine (Oct. '07 issue)

    liveche feuille = lovage leaves I believe

    salicylate we know as aspirin

    molasses a byproduct of the sugar refinement is used to make rum

    good stuff. thx Mike
    Last edited by fredricktoo; 23rd October 2007 at 05:03 AM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Trivia from Chandler Burr's article in O Magazine (Oct. '07 issue)

    Mikeperez, have you compared the sugarcane note in Black Orchid with the one in the drydown of Virgin Island Water ?
    -

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Trivia from Chandler Burr's article in O Magazine (Oct. '07 issue)

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Mikeperez, have you compared the sugarcane note in Black Orchid with the one in the drydown of Virgin Island Water ?
    Yes.

    Much different in IMO.

    In VIW the sugarcane is underneath the lime and rum and it tends to be even more hidden by the coconut. I think also that's why the coconut accord in VIW is so subtle and not so 'synthetic smelling' (like Marc Jacobs for Men's) because of the sugarcane accord sweetening it.

    Black Orchid's sugarcane is MUCH more pronounced and highlights the middle and basenotes which (after the truffle note fades) become the smell of decomposing fruit sweetened with sugarcane. In heat it become quite treacly (believe me I know this firsthand, here in Miami) but Black Orchid applied at the right time (nighttime, cool weather, as little clothes as possible) and the dark rotten fruit/sugarcane accord really is fascinating.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  5. #5

    Default Re: Trivia from Chandler Burr's article in O Magazine (Oct. '07 issue)

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Yes.

    Much different in IMO.

    In VIW the sugarcane is underneath the lime and rum and it tends to be even more hidden by the coconut. I think also that's why the coconut accord in VIW is so subtle and not so 'synthetic smelling' (like Marc Jacobs for Men's) because of the sugarcane accord sweetening it.

    Black Orchid's sugarcane is MUCH more pronounced and highlights the middle and basenotes which (after the truffle note fades) become the smell of decomposing fruit sweetened with sugarcane. In heat it become quite treacly (believe me I know this firsthand, here in Miami) but Black Orchid applied at the right time (nighttime, cool weather, as little clothes as possible) and the dark rotten fruit/sugarcane accord really is fascinating.
    Great, thanks!

    I admit I have only sprayed Black Orchid on my wrist once .. have to give it a full sniff soon.
    -

  6. #6

    Default Re: Trivia from Chandler Burr's article in O Magazine (Oct. '07 issue)

    I wonder which Salicylate it is...there are a bunch of them. Hmmm...

    Great info though...thanks Mike.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Trivia from Chandler Burr's article in O Magazine (Oct. '07 issue)

    Quote Originally Posted by fredricktoo View Post
    ...salicylate we know as aspirin...

    Aspirin
    ® = acetylsalicylic acid

    Methylsalicylate = salicylic acid methyl ester, oil of wintergreen
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Trivia from Chandler Burr's article in O Magazine (Oct. '07 issue)

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    Aspirin® = acetylsalicylic acid

    Methylsalicylate = salicylic acid methyl ester, oil of wintergreen
    In addition to:

    -allyl salicylate
    -amyl salicylate
    -amyl salicylate (iso)
    -benzyl salicylate
    -bornyl salicylate
    -butyl salicylate
    -butyl salicylate (iso)
    -cinnamyl salicylate
    -cresyl salicylate (ortho)
    --cresyl salicylate (para)
    -cyclohexyl salicylate
    -dimethyl salicylate

    ...and the list goes on and on...

  9. #9

    Default Re: Trivia from Chandler Burr's article in O Magazine (Oct. '07 issue)

    How did he describe Eau de Gingembre? since it's by R&G I have it and I've always been rather underwhelmed?
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  10. #10
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    Default Re: Trivia from Chandler Burr's article in O Magazine (Oct. '07 issue)

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    How did he describe Eau de Gingembre? since it's by R&G I have it and I've always been rather underwhelmed?
    Next to the picture of it, the blurb reads: 'Eau de Gingembre, by Roger & Gallet, captures the bracing essence of ginger, sharp and smooth, tart and sweet.' In the article his comments are: '...Eau de Gimgembre, By R&G, which transforms the natural ginger into a finished superlative fragrance. I've seen people gasp on smelling this perfume - a balance of sharp and smooth, tart and crisply sweet.'
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  11. #11

    Default Re: Trivia from Chandler Burr's article in O Magazine (Oct. '07 issue)

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    2. He mentions a ginger fragrance, Eau de Gingembre by Roger & Gallet, that I don't think I've ever heard anyone on Basenotes mention. It sounds divine.
    I think i might have mentioned it a couple of times...
    I got me a 200ml bottle of it a while ago (as did my sister and we certainly differ in tastes), oh and i think i also wrote a review for it too ( but i haven't posted it yet! ) . I sent the pic of my bottle to Grant.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    6. Black Orchid by Tom Ford contains an extract of sugarcane from the rum distillation process
    this sounds better and better with time doesn't it?
    ...it's been a top 15 for me since its release...

    cheers!
    Last edited by castorpollux; 24th October 2007 at 03:35 AM.

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