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  1. #1

    Question Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Can anyone comment on the differences you observe in these two scents. For me the topnotes are so very similar, and maybe even the hearts, but the Shalimar is such a stunning, creamy rich vanilla in the dry down, whereas the Jicky seems to me more understated and casual.

    What do you think? agree? disagree?
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  2. #2

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Hmm, I think the opposite: the top notes are very different, the similarity is more on the heart or base notes. The prototype of Shalimar was born when Jacques Guerlain added a huge dose of vanilla into Jicky...

    Jicky starts with lavender and rosemary, but Shalimar isn't even slightly herbal/aromatic.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  3. #3

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Oh Tigs, I beg to differ!
    I get a lot of bergamot as well as lavender and rosemary in the top of Jicky and to me the opening of Shalimar is strongly bergamotty. (Comparisons have been made in our house between Shalimar and lemon Pledge. Philistines!)

    Although they're not the same top notes, like Rtmara, I find these two scents more similar there than in their finish. I love wearing Jicky in hot weather precisely because it doesn't have that warm vanilla. I find it very refreshing, like an eau de cologne, but obviously with much more longevity than an edc.

    What about their heart notes? they share Orris/Iris notes according to the BN directory.
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729

  4. #4

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Quote Originally Posted by Wordbird View Post
    Oh Tigs, I beg to differ!
    By all means.

    Might very well be the heart notes that are most similar.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  5. #5

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Ah the cultivated world of Fragonista debate

    at some point in the middle the civet comes out in a real creamy soft sort of way in the Jicky.
    With the Shalimar the vanilla is the stunner.

    Wordbird, I agree that the Jicky feels rather refreshing, the Shalimar is languorous.
    Tigrushka, I never knew this - interesting point:
    \The prototype of Shalimar was born when Jacques Guerlain added a huge dose of vanilla into Jicky...
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  6. #6

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    What a lovely duo.
    Now that you mention it, I can see the relation.
    Lemon (or bergamot) and vanilla is a winning combination.
    The overall character (to me) is that Jicky focuses on the citrus, while Shalimar focuses on the vanilla.
    Jicky takes that citrus and adds lavendar, going solidly into fougere territory, but straddles the line with a creamy vanilla that never gives up. Shalimar introduces citrus but quickly adds that wonderful, woody note (what wood is it?) and leaps completely into Oriental land with the best vanilla ever.
    Sigh. I have neither right now and wish I had both.
    Going to the mall to spritz myself ASAP. They always have Shalimar, but never Jicky.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Me too I find them very related, and the story about Shalimar being derived from Jicky makes sense to me. I've read about opoponax as smelling very earthy, deep and balsamic and that's exactly what I get from both in the base (they both contain opoponax).

    And then it seems that Jacques Guerlain has 'simply' taken out all the herbal and foresty notes and added vanillin - to get Shalimar. They are both fantastic. Though I find Shalimar more 'clean', Jicky more 'complex', even 'confusing' because of all the different herbal and foresty notes.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Purplebird, I love reading about these side by side.
    Mr. Guerlain, I want to express appreciation about your Guerlain site. Beautiful photos and very informative.

    I wonder about the different formulations. I have thus far sampled Shalimar in edt which made me feel rather ill. The Light version which was palatable, but I preferred Habit Rouge to that one, and now the Parfum version which is glorious and has swept me off my feet nearly to my embarrassment.

    Now the Jicky, I have taken first sniff of the edp or the pdt whatever it is called and am enchanted by it. Can anyone comment on these beauties further in their respective formulations? Is the edt any good? Is the edp the sure way to go when investing in a bottle? Will the Jicky parfum send me into paroxysms of ecstasy?
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  9. #9

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Rtamara41, thanks a lot for your compliments.

    For all the different concentrations and formulations, I think it's quite confusing. For Shalimar, I really think that one should try to get vintage on Ebay. It has much less bergamot which makes it perhaps weaker, but also more calm, even more beautiful. My preferred Shalimar concentration is either EdC or Parfum vintage. Actually, the EdC is very, very beautiful - extremely tender, like a soft, powdery, incense-y cloud staying around you all day long (but can ONLY be found vintage). The vintage Parfum is equally soft/non-sharp, but still not as tender, and of course more intense and long lasting.

    I find myself to use the EdT and PdT not so often - to me they are very similar, both too 'sharp', even in the vintage formulation.

    Jicky: Here again, the EdC (only exists in vintage) is for me divine. Again this tender, aromatic impression. But here, the EdT (vintage) is equally beautiful, not sharp at all. Vintage EdT is more aromatic/less 'clean' than the new formulation. Both EdC and EdT seems quite 'cool' to me, whereas the Parfum (I only got new formulation of this one) is very 'warm/intense', even a little bit 'messy'. I prefer the 'cool' EdT and EdC. And then PdT - again quite different, VERY aromatic, almost a bit licorice-y, but not as 'over-intense' like the Parfum, and not sharp like the Shalimar EdT and PdT.

    Summa-summarum (if you ask me): I suggest one finds:
    Shalimar: vintage EdC and Parfum
    Jicky: vintage EdC and EdT (or new if one prefers a more 'clean' scent).

    Quote Originally Posted by rtamara41 View Post
    Purplebird, I love reading about these side by side.
    Mr. Guerlain, I want to express appreciation about your Guerlain site. Beautiful photos and very informative.

    I wonder about the different formulations. I have thus far sampled Shalimar in edt which made me feel rather ill. The Light version which was palatable, but I preferred Habit Rouge to that one, and now the Parfum version which is glorious and has swept me off my feet nearly to my embarrassment.

    Now the Jicky, I have taken first sniff of the edp or the pdt whatever it is called and am enchanted by it. Can anyone comment on these beauties further in their respective formulations? Is the edt any good? Is the edp the sure way to go when investing in a bottle? Will the Jicky parfum send me into paroxysms of ecstasy?

  10. #10

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Mr. G, you are right when you say it can be confusing. I think I am realizing that perfume is like wine. I imagine that various lots, like harvests, are quite unique. I suppose one has to accept that each lot, each bottle, each year of distribution is going to subtly affect your scent experience.
    And you know, I'm okay with that.
    It just makes each bottle more unique and a one of a kind experience.
    I really think that my vintage Mitsouko parfum bottle that I got on ebay is changing, the bottom drops have a voluptuous quality, not as sour as when when I first opened the stopper a year ago.
    Then again, it could be my vivid imagination.
    I do appreciate your comments about the different formulations.
    Last edited by rtamara41; 27th October 2007 at 04:46 PM.
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  11. #11

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Quote Originally Posted by rtamara41 View Post
    Mr. G, you are right when you say it can be confusing. I think I am realizing that perfume is like wine. I imagine that various lots, like harvests, are quite unique. I suppose one has to accept that each lot, each bottle, each year of distribution is going to subtly affect your scent experience.
    And you know, I'm okay with that.
    It just makes each bottle more unique and a one of a kind experience.
    You are right! Sometimes this confusion can drive me mad - I want to find THE version. But like you I must just realize that it's like wine. Which is, like you say, actually charming!

  12. #12

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Guerlain View Post
    You are right! Sometimes this confusion can drive me mad - I want to find THE version. But like you I must just realize that it's like wine. Which is, like you say, actually charming!
    Shall we have a toast to that...
    Salut
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  13. #13

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    This discussion is so timely--I just found an unlabeled vintage bottle of Guerlain, in the cologne concentration, I believe. I am pretty sure it's Jicky, but then I hesitate and think, maybe it's Shalimar with damaged topnotes! But the beginning is more herbal, and there's not that vanilla. I am very pleased with it regardless.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Guerlain View Post
    I've read about opoponax as smelling very earthy, deep and balsamic and that's exactly what I get from both in the base (they both contain opoponax).
    Is that what I was identifying as the "woody" note in Shalimar, then?

  15. #15

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Quote Originally Posted by purplebird7 View Post
    Is that what I was identifying as the "woody" note in Shalimar, then?
    I thought about it when I read your question about the 'wood' in Shalimar. I'm quite sure it's the opoponax that you are smelling, as Shalimar doesn't contain wood. If you are interested, you can read a bit here http://www.scents-of-earth.com/opoponax.html

    It has this thick, rooty, balsamic, buttery smell that is such a characteristic of both Jicky and Shalimar...

  16. #16

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    To me these two are nothing alike except for a certain Guerlain feel. The lavender and citrus alongwith loads of civet defines Jicky while Shalimar's distinctively smooth incense-laden vanilla drydown is missing in Jicky. Two quite different fragrances.
    -

  17. #17

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    To me they don't feel at all the same, but I can percieve the kinship. Shalimar is certainly hard to dislike and you can be pretty sure that if you like it in the lower concentrations, you'll only like it better up the scale. Jicky, on the other hand, has many fans in edt, who can't get past the civit in the edp (that much discussed baby-vomit accord of the civit + something else in there). I found the edt kinda nice, but it just needed more oomph and the edp gave me exactly that. I'd love to try the parfum.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Guerlain View Post
    I thought about it when I read your question about the 'wood' in Shalimar. I'm quite sure it's the opoponax that you are smelling...It has this thick, rooty, balsamic, buttery smell that is such a characteristic of both Jicky and Shalimar...
    Must be the opoponax. I sure love that.
    love all of the woody resins. That was a good link. Soma Luna is another good one
    Quote Originally Posted by Kyra View Post
    Jicky, on the other hand, has many fans in edt, who can't get past the civit in the edp (that much discussed baby-vomit accord of the civit + something else in there). I found the edt kinda nice, but it just needed more oomph and the edp gave me exactly that. I'd love to try the parfum.
    Tried it. Loved it. Didn't get any offensive note. Twas purely delightful.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    I love the civet in the Jicky, something warm and buttery about this...not offensive at all.
    I have only tried the edp version. I can only imagine the parfum version is heavenly.
    Wore Jicky all day today and it just uplifted me beautifully. I had one of the male nurses come near and tell me he needs to spend a few moments a day "sniffing" me...um, gee, does that sound a bit weird? In context it was flattering.
    Anyway, good reviews for Jicky today all around, this could become a clear staple for me.
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  20. #20

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kyra View Post
    To me they don't feel at all the same, but I can percieve the kinship. Shalimar is certainly hard to dislike and you can be pretty sure that if you like it in the lower concentrations, you'll only like it better up the scale. Jicky, on the other hand, has many fans in edt, who can't get past the civit in the edp (that much discussed baby-vomit accord of the civit + something else in there). I found the edt kinda nice, but it just needed more oomph and the edp gave me exactly that. I'd love to try the parfum.
    Just digging out this old thread. I just asked myself the same question. In the beginning of my perfumista career, nearly 2 yrs ago, I had a sample of jicky edp. Back then I was extremely sensitive to civet. So I loved the lavender and herbst with slight funk in the beginning, but soon, I god only a heavy bad breath smell. I learned to to sniff up close. Once I put some on the back of my neck, and that was somehow better. So I was recommended the EdT and got a decant. But to be honest I prefer the EdP although it is more skanky and thus more challenging to me. For me the constituents of the EdT somehow fall apart, I get a horribly cloying sweet artificial vanilla. I think the EdP is overall better and of course the extrait.
    So, I wouln't say Jicky has less vanilla than Shalimar, I got loads of vanilla in Jicky.
    I think what is different in Shalimar is absence of aromatic herbs and the addition of amber to the vanilla. Also I get a strong phenolic vibe that combines well with the civet and crewtes a smoky leathery smell. Also very challenging.
    Jicky and Shalimar have a very distinct feel to me.'

  21. #21

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    I think you summed it up nicely for me, too, DieNase! The dirty vanilla vibe in Jicky is clearly reminiscent of Shalimar (the old stuff), but telling a rather different story.

  22. #22

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    But isn't the rumour that Jacques pored some synthetic vanilla into a vat of Jicky, then work Shalimar from that.

    For me the opening of Jicky(I have the pdt version and the parfum), the first is herbal then its all civet and woody, the latter much smoother and softer.
    Shalimar is fresh lemon like then all amber and opoponax.
    DONNA

  23. #23

    Default Re: Shalimar and Jicky comparisons?

    That's what I heard too donna. Jacques was shown a sample of the new synthetic Ethyl Vanillin, and loved it so much he tipped it all into a vat of Jicky. He then went on to create Shalimar.

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