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  1. #1

    Wink The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne

    Gentlemen - I am new to Basenotes and am impressed by the breadth of experience and knowledge you all possess in the realm of scents and the senses. I bid your help in finding my "perfect Vetiver cologne."

    For those of you who know the Caswell-Massey Vetiver Cologne (discontinued decades ago but re-introduced in 2002 for their 250th anniversary and then deleted three years later from their catalogue), you will know my perfect Vetiver Cologne. Redolent of the true vetiver scent, but rounded, powdery and with a burnt sugar/caramel sweetness underlying it.

    What I am searching for is a Vetiver cologne that most closely matches it.

    Here is my experience with other vetivers:

    1. Just because a cologne house names a cologne "Vetiver" doesn't mean I can detect the scent - I tried a few name brand vetivers a few years ago and detected any and everything BUT vetiver (mostly green and wood notes-primarily harsh).

    2. I have tried Roger and Gallet's Vetiver - very nice but only disappears in an hour. Also Hove's which is pure oil and alcohol - very harsh, green notes. Floris Vetiver was for me pure sandalwood, no vetiver at all.

    What the ideal Vetiver contains and does not contain:

    1. It is not harshly green (oak moss, cedar) or sharp.
    2. It is not overly dependent on sandalwood as a base.

    3. It is round, warm and sensual.
    4. I have mixed oil combinations that work well with vetiver, among them: rose, verbena, jasmine.

    Other favorite colognes that have successfully combined with my natural scent:

    1. Caswell Massey Elixir of Love #1 - although marketed as a "woman's" scent, I find it very warm and sensual and the wearer is greatly appreciated by both men and women.
    2. Gendarme - original herbal/citrus formula - fresh and clean and a proven aphrodisiac for both sexes.
    3. Trumper's Ajaccio Violet - a gentle, refined, masculine violet great for winter use.
    4. Knize Ten - the emperor of colognes - warm, round, sexy, sophisticated.
    5. Caswell Massey Original Newport - vanilla, heliotrope, bergamot- again warm and sensual. Their "new" Newport smells clinical to my nose.
    6. Floris #127 - Petitgrain and orange blossom with a subtle blend of rose - again warm and sophisticated.

    I would appreciate with your suggestions, a few words about the reasons you are recommending a particular cologne - where it fits in with what I have indicated above are my preferences.

    Thank you all very much in advance.

  2. #2

    wicozani's Avatar
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    Default Re: The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne

    First of all, welcome to Basenotes! I would recommend that you take a look at the related thread on this page entitled "So I'm going to buy a vetiver...which one should I buy?". In that thread there is a link to a competitive review of vetiver scents that I undertook some time ago. I mention this because there were several of the 30+ vetiver scents that I reviewed that had that burnt sugar/syrup note that you're apparently after. To cut straight to the chase, I noted this characteristic note in both Molinard Vetiver EDC and Demeter Vetiver. You can read my original thread mentioning this to see what other comments I may have had on them, and where I "see" them stand in the pantheon of vetiver scents.

    Having said this, I am going to be purchasing Fresco di Vetiver EDT from i Profumi di Firenze. It is an outstanding vetiver cologne, fresh and light while also featuring excellent longevity, but without the burnt sugar note you've requested. Good luck!

  3. #3

    Default Re: The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne

    Welcome to Basenotes! Mmmm....vetiver. Whereas this is one of my favorite scents, I have not tried too many. Of those that I have tried, the ones that really stand out are the following:

    1. Guerlain Vetiver - Tobacco and leather, and yet soapy and green, Guerlain's offering is a staple in many a wardrobe. Classic and worthy for year round use.
    2. Creed's Original Vetiver - This one is more on the citrusy and clean side. Someone once described it as a newly cut lawn with the scent of freshly cut lemons in the background.
    3. Frederick Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire - A more herbal and wild whole-vetiver experience, imo. I believe that this one has the most concentration of vetiver of fragrances on the market.
    4. Malezia Vetiver - This is more in the Axe/Lynx range, but surprisingly good. More of a sporty vetiver and very, very cheap. (Yet pretty hard to find.)

    If I were to choose from the above, I would go with Guerlain. It has the most character of the bunch. Some people love it, and others think it smells like an ash tray.

    That being said, I don't think that there is a "perfect" vetiver--just as there is not a perfect cologne--but rather a "perfect-for-you" vetiver. I would suggest that you sample as many as you like, and choose the one that you enjoy most. That is the sure-proof way.

    Best of luck!
    You are not your perfume.

  4. #4

    Default Re: The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne

    I am quickly developing a fondness for vetiver. I enjoy Guerlain's vetiver depending on my mood and what characteristics I seem to get from its many facets. It can smell different at different times throughout its development. I also like the clean and intoxicating notes that Thierry Mugler cologne offers. Again, this is a frag that can smell different to me at different times.

    I was wondering what the vetiver gurus on here think of Carolina Herrera's 'Sensual Vetiver.' Does it have an adequate dose of vetiver and how does it work with the rest of this fragrance's composition?

  5. #5

    Default Re: The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne

    Vettiveru by CdG. Unequaled in its simplicity and creaminess.

    TNMA
    "Why not seize the pleasure at once?"
    -- Jane Austen (Sun, and Mercury in Sagittarius)

  6. #6

    Default Re: The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne

    Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire is my favorite. Creed's OV is good too, but it's no VE.

  7. #7
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne

    I didn't read your long list of pre-requisites, but the most satisfying vetivers I own are

    Sycomore
    Guerlain Vetiver - pre-99 vintage edt
    Vetiver Extraordinaire
    Givenchy Vetyver
    Last edited by pluran; 15th July 2010 at 01:47 AM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne

    Some wonderful choices...
    Another lovely, is Vetiver de Carven.
    and, if you're adventurous, Querelle...
    AND, if you want a hot, smoky one- VeroProfumo's Onda.

  9. #9

    Default Re: The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne

    My thanks to the seven people who have initially answered my post - Chayaruchama, Pluran, Aaron 01, Thenmarcher, Dreamchaser, Nicolas V and Wicozani. I will take all of your advice and recommendations under consideration. As Nicolas V has noted (and I meant) the search is for the vetifer that is "perfect for me." Everyone who contributes to Basenotes must be aware of the diversity of tastes in scent, as well as the unique personal interactions of scents with our skins and body oils. Thanks again all of you.

  10. #10

    Default Re: The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne

    Can't help you...but I can empathize. I have one bottle of Caswell Massey left that I've been nursing.

  11. #11

    Default Re: The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne

    Hey Jack, welcome to basenotes! You mentioned vetiver scent, but rounded, powdery and with a burnt sugar/caramel sweetness underlying it....try Vetiver Tonka by Hermes

  12. #12

    Default Re: The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne

    Gentlemen, JackTwist posted this thread two-and-a-half years ago. I think he's solved or given up on his vetiver quest. Probably that long ago too.
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  13. #13

    Default Re: The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne

    Lol

  14. #14

    Default Re: The search for the perfect Vetiver Cologne


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