Could you alphabetise your list? It'd make it easier to contribute...
I was thinking the other day: what are some notes that every fragrance lover should be able to discern? I decided that I wanted (more so needed) to internalize every popular note out there - at least the texture of them.
Despite smelling hundreds and hundreds of fragrances, I never sat down to really educate myself what I was actually smelling. I never for once took time to associate a smell to its parent. Embarrassingly and humbly I admit after all this time, I don't know what I'm smelling half the time beyond the basics like: lavender, tuberose, vetiver, jasmine, leather, sandalwood, etc. I admit to having more head knowledge (Polge of Chanel and his aldehydes and Creed using ambergris) than nose knowledge, but I'd love to really get this down and understand what aldehydes and ambergris smell like.
I thought it would be helpful to come up with a list of notes and the fragrances that have that dominating note. If you want to learn what tuberose is… smell Frederic Malle’s Carnal Flower. If you want to learn what iris is about, smell SL's Iris Silver Mist and so on. It is obvious that one can go to an essential oil store for this education as well.
I understand on the chemical level that there are many renditions (there are 100-150 species of roses) of a single note plus you have the whole synthetic and non-synthetic arena to talk about, but this is all for basic education. It would be useful to include some educational facts (I know very little botany but ie. “Anise bears a strong family resemblance to the members of the carrot family, that includes dill, fennel, coriander, cumin and caraway. Many of these relatives have been described as having a licorice flavour, to some extent, but anise is the true taste of licorice. [http://theepicentre.com/Spices/anise.html]”) and additional outlets (where) to experience some of these notes.
Gaiac Wood -
Juniper Berry -
White Musk -
Calone, linalool, coumarin, salicylates
Please include some other widely used notes that I may have missed.
*** Perhaps this can one day become a sticky in the "starting out" section. I and future readers of this post thank you.
Last edited by scentophile; 8th November 2007 at 06:42 PM.
Could you alphabetise your list? It'd make it easier to contribute...
What is "white musk", exactly? Also, birch can vary quite a bit. Sweet birch is wintergreen-ish, and white birch is made both into birch bud and birch tar, both of which smell different. Orchid might be similarly problematic is defining as one note.
There are some citrus notes that might fit in nicely in that list: lime, grapefruit, lemon.
Aldehydes – K de Krizia, Chanel No. 5, White Linen
Amber - Ambre Precieux by MPG, Ambre Sultan by Lutens
Ambergris – Eau de Merveilles by Hermes
Ambrette Seed - No. 18 by Chanel
Angelica - Angelique Sous La Pluis by Malle
Basil - Baime by MPG
Bergamot - Divine Bergamot by The Different Company
Blackberry - Mure et Musc by L'Artisan
Black Currant - Silver Mountain Water by Creed
Calone - L'Eau D'Issey by Miyake, Escape by Calvin Klein
Carnation - Bellodgia by Caron, Carnation by CDG
Cedar - Bois series by Lutens, Cedre by Lutens, Feminite du Bois by Shiseido
Cherry Blossom - Various Cherry Blossom editions from Guerlain
Cinnamon - Rousse by Lutens, Cinnamon by CDG
Civet – Jicky by Guerlain, Rose Poivree by TDC
Dihydromercenol - Cool Water
Fig - Marc Jacobs for Men, Premier Figuier by L'Artisan
Fern - Rive Gauche Pour Homme by YSL
Flour - Bois Farine by L'Artisan
Gardenia - Marc Jacobs
Grapefruit - Pamplelune by Guerlain, Un Jardin Sur Le Nil by Hermes
Hedione - Odour 53 by CDG
Hyacinth - Jacinthe de Bois by L'Artisan
Ionones - Apres L'Ondee by Guerlain, Bois de Violette by Lutens
Iso E Super - Escentric Molecules, Declaration by Cartier
Iris - Iris Silver Mist by Lutens, Bois D'Iris by The Different Company, Iris Bleu Gris by MPG, Infusion D'Iris by Prada
Jasmin - A La Nuit by Lutens, Jasmin Full by Montale
Kiwi - Tutti Kiwi by Guerlain
Lavender - English Lavender by Yardley, Anti-Hero by Etat Libre
Leather - Cabochard by Gres, Cuir de Russie by Chanel, Bandit by Piguet, Antaeus by Chanel
Lemon - Lemon Sorbet by Etro
Lilac - En Passant by Malle
Lily - Un Lys by Lutens, Lys Mediteranee by Malle
Lily of the Valley - Diorissimo by Dior
Mandarin - Mandarine Tout Simplement by L'Artisan, Mandarine Basalic by Guerlain
Mint - Mint/Peppermint by CDG, Menthe Fraiche by Heeley
Musk - Muscs Koublai Khan by Lutens, Original Musk by Kiehls, Musc Ravageur by Malle
Neroli/Orange Blossom - Castile by Penhaligon's, Fleurs D'Oranger by Lutens, Fleurs D'Oranger by L'Artisan
Orange - Eau D'Orange Verte by Hermes
Osmanthus - Osmanthus by The Different Company, Osmanthe Yunnan by Hermes
Patchouli - Patchouli by Etro
Peach - Mitsouko by Guerlain, Bois et Fruits by Lutens
Pepper - Poivre Samarcande by Hermes, Poivre Piquant by L'Artisan
Pineapple - Ananas Fizz by L'Artisan
Rhubarb - Rhubarb by CDG
Rose - Nahema by Guerlain, Une Rose by Malle
Sandalwood - Santal Blanc by Lutens
Tea - Tea by CDG, The Verte by Bvlgari, The Pour Un Ete by L'Artisan
Tobacco - Jasmin & Cigarette by Etat Libre
Tuberose - Tubereuse Criminelle by Lutens, Carnal Flower by Malle, Fracas by Piguet
Vetiver - Vetiver Extraordinaire by Malle, Vetiver by Lorenzo V.
Violet - Meteorites by Guerlain, Violette Verte by L'Artisan, Grey Flannel
White Musk - Clair de Musc by Lutens
Yuzu - Yuzu Rouge by Parfums 06130
Last edited by Dane; 13th November 2007 at 07:43 PM.
Perfume.com, has done that for us. Click on search by scent. I would venture to say that a Perfumer, or "Nose'', deal's with many more than are listed here.Click on note, and that will lead you to a frag. Mostly Designer frag's. Hope this help's!
wow good question!
Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost
go to one of my favorite blogs...
There they have perfume 101 and 102 classes you can click on and list a lot of the notes you mentioned and lists of fragrances which highlight these notes. One other quick note... when I smell a note I try to picture it with a literal image so that when my nose and brain pick it up in something else, that image comes to mind even when the note is well hidden. It sounds infantile but it works
p.s. Sofresh, not to brown nose but that is a great and thoughtful list you've put there. Thanks!
Last edited by nthny; 8th November 2007 at 09:11 PM.
Btw. I loved your list. This is exactly what I'm looking for. I'll be off with this list to the fragrance shops this weekend. Thanks!
Last edited by scentophile; 8th November 2007 at 09:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Anyone serious about fragrances would get a kick out of sampling essential oils. Get some samples of real essences and absolutes from places like libertynatural.com or Eden Botanicals or some other company that sells samples for cheap. I never knew half of what I was smelling in fragrances until I started getting into perfumery myself and amassed a collection of fragrance materials (I have a cabinet full of oils, tinctures, absolutes, resins, etc.)
It adds a whole new element, and lets you start "thinking" in smells after lots of practice. I can "think" lavender or gaiacwood now, just like I can imagine the colour red, or a musical note. This is part of how perfumers compose a fragrance, by smelling with their mind instead of just the nose.