Chypres without oakmoss

[JaimeB]

I guess the European Union is barring the use of oakmoss in perfumes. This really puts a dent in the traditional formula for chypre-style scents: bergamot or other prominent citrus in the top, and oakmoss, patchouli, and (optionally) labdanum or clary sage in the base.

It seems to me that some of the newer 'chypres' are doing even more radical surgery on the base notes. They are leaving out not only oakmoss, but also labdanum, and clary sage, and even, sometimes, the patchouli.

What does that leave of the traditional chypre formulation?

I for one hate to see this beautiful traditional style of perfumery radically altered. I think some of these noses who are putting out the "new chypres" ought to consider giving us something at least vaguely recalling the traditional style, and preferably, without a lot of synthetics and cheap ingredients. As cost go down, prices seem to go ever higher.

How do we send a message about these deplorable trends?

[TwoRoads]

Great question!

Although my interests have expanded since I found Basenotes, the Mossy Woods (Chypre) family is what initially sparked my interest in fragrances and is still the one I consider first.

I am interested in the answer as well.

Hopefully some of our parfumers will see this thread and give us insight into the future of chypres.

[Magnifiscent]

(costs cut + prices rise)*(who among milion customers, aside the spare connoisseurs, will care about it) = $INCOME$ £MORE INCOME£ €INCOME AGAIN€
Hope there will be always at least few niche houses keeping high the flag of haute parfumerie