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  1. #1

    Default Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    to your opinion - there are houses that are mentioned frequently but maybe don´t deserve it and vice versa....

    Not sure about Annick Goutal - sometimes I am very disappointed by her scents

  2. #2
    musse's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    To me L' Artisan Parfumeur is very over rated. I simply don' t *get* this line...
    Everything passes. Everything changes. Just do what you think you should do.
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  3. #3
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated:
    Lutens (very good to smell, not to wear)
    Goutal
    Dior
    Many Guerlain, (l'instant etc...)
    Villoresi
    Creed

    Underrated:
    Montale and his wonderful Aouds
    MPG (Soie Rouge)
    Frederic Malle (best best bestEau d'Hiver-En Passant-Le parfum de Therèse)
    Divine
    Last edited by nyneve; 11th November 2007 at 10:13 PM. Reason: forgot house
    A, quales ego mane rosas procedere vidi!
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  4. #4
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Now that you make me think ... almost all of the better-known houses are overrated in some aspect. But then, I'm so hard to please and tend to find just one FBW scent from each house. Except for, well (grinning at musse), L'Artisan, of which I own three.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I think whether we rate something depends on whether house accords work with our chemistry. I get one well with Lutens, Carons, Creeds and most Diors but really don't get on with Goutals (they just fade on me...in fact I could barely smell Eau de Charlotte at all) and Chanels (stinky ashtray note).
    Although I've been a longterm devotee of Mitsouko, most Guerlains don't work at all well for me either.
    Still, I am loathe to write off a house just because their fragrances don't work with my chemistry. They'll work for others, and be loved by them, so who is to judge?

  6. #6

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated: Bond.

    I have yet to find one that justifies that expense, not one. And believe me I have stood there at Saks and tried them!

    (but I'm sure they are fabulous on some)

    Underrated: Balmain (they give Jolie Madame and Miss Balmain away online)
    Last edited by Zibeline; 11th November 2007 at 11:50 PM. Reason: additions
    Currently wearing: Bluebell by Penhaligon's

  7. #7

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    This reminds me of a question in a different, recent, post regarding "iconic" scents in each fragrance house.

    I could say that Chanel is overrated, but it is only because stores mostly carry No. 5, Coco Mademoiselle, and Chance (and sometimes Coco.) If they put Bois des Ilse and Cuir de Russie on the shelf, I would reconsider. Even No. 19 has disappeared from all but one store in my city. There are no Chanel boutiques anywhere near here--or near most American cities, for that matter. (Les Exclusifs? What Les Exclusifs?)
    So, I give Chanel the overrated award for poor marketing.

    Underrated fragrance house? Madini. Unadorned roll-on bottles, inexpensive oil-based pure parfum, kick-butt staying power, formulas that have the courage to be different. I'm wearing Musk Gazelle right now. All I can say is, "Oh, wow."

    Underrated on this forum? Ayala Moriel. I know that some people question the high prices and low sillage of all-naturals, but her fragrances are beautiful creations. I have tried almost all of her line by now, and I know this for a fact. Some of them are absolutely breathtaking. The fresh, open, fragrance is what botanical aroma ingredients really smell like. Sure, synthetic aromachemicals are potent, dramatic, and can fill a room with fragrance for a low price. But don't you want to know what real things smell like? I do. And I have to say, I prefer the way they smell, even if I don't trail sillage like a high-powered motorboat. I just quietly sniff my own wrists and smile. I love them, I truly do.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Over-rated:
    Bond

    Under-rated:
    Les Parfums De Rosine

  9. #9

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I agree that Bond is overrated in general and Chanel is overrated in terms of marketing only their "mass-market" scents. Coco is getting harder to find beyond the EDP and thank goodness #5 is popular else it would be suffering the same fate.

    Underrated? Hermes (though I haven't sniffed the Hermessences yet because I'm afraid I will love them!)

  10. #10

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated - Definitely Serge Lutens

    Underrated - Santa Maria Novella

  11. #11

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated: Bond No. 9
    Underrated: Montale Paris

  12. #12

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    overated: Chanel, Etro, parfums del rae (sp?), yosh (although I like one or two scents in each of these lines)

    underated: Balmain, Parfumerie Generale, newer creations by Caron, older creations by Patou, Bvlgari, Kenzo

  13. #13

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Indiscreet View Post
    I think whether we rate something depends on whether house accords work with our chemistry.
    Still, I am loathe to write off a house just because their fragrances don't work with my chemistry. They'll work for others, and be loved by them, so who is to judge?
    Good question, and the reason why I rather speak for myself and my likes or dislikes than declare something overrated or underrated.

    One gal's/guy's Holy Grail is another gal's/quy's overrated and overpriced crap and vice versa.

    Indeed, who is to judge?
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  14. #14

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrushka View Post
    Good question, and the reason why I rather speak for myself and my likes or dislikes than declare something overrated or underrated.

    One gal's/guy's Holy Grail is another gal's/quy's overrated and overpriced crap and vice versa.

    Indeed, who is to judge?
    I volunteer!

    lol
    Currently wearing: Bluebell by Penhaligon's

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Perhaps the discussion should not be overrated versus underrated - but should be overexposed versus un-discussed, or undisplayed

    Under-exposed:

    I am always annoyed when large Department stores have only a few Guerlains - I remember (pre-internet shopping) scouring shops for L'Heure Bleu when I still lived in NYC - the sales woman at Bloomingdales informed me quite haughtily (and incorrectly) that it was no longer was in production and "don't you want a nice bottle of Shalimar?" They do have it these days, but it was frustrating at the time. My local Macy's is pushing My Insolence, and always has Samsara and Shalimar. But that's it. Sadly - many scent lovers in my age range are not "on the net" nor do they live in NYC, and Department stores in malls are where they go to spritz and sniff.

    Myurgia & Borsari: There are Italian and Spanish perfume houses get sort shrift online, in blogs...amazing that such a well known perfumer in Spain and Spanish-speaking parts of the New World like Myurgia, is rarely mentioned. I fell in love with a gift of 12 mini bottles of Borsari's, but try finding most or any of them other than Violetta di Parma.

    Caron: Am having a lovely discussion of Caron's in another thread and am now hunting them down, though they have a boutique in NYC, I'm told, have never seen them in shops.

    House of Rochas: Have also reordered Madame Rochas, and am about to try Tocade.
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
    Chanakya

  16. #16

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post
    Under-exposed: I am always annoyed when large Department stores have only a few Guerlains
    Hear-hear. In Copenhagen there's only very little Guerlain to be found. I do all my Guerlain shopping online, but I'd love to see more in the department stores, just to admire it.

  17. #17

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post
    Perhaps the discussion should not be overrated versus underrated - but should be overexposed versus un-discussed, or undisplayed
    Much better.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  18. #18

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I disagree, I wanted to talk about houses that are put ahead just because of fame and too much hooray instead of quality , compared to those not well known but with excellent scents.

  19. #19

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Alicka61 View Post
    I disagree, I wanted to talk about houses that are put ahead just because of fame and too much hooray instead of quality , compared to those not well known but with excellent scents.
    But that's more about the attention the houses get (whether deservingly or undeservingly is again a matter of opinion...) than about some "universal objective rating system" which IMO doesn't really exist.

    The problem with the terms "overrated" and "underrated" is that they are basically saying that "anyone who does not agree with me (or doesn't share my taste) is wrong". That's why I always cringe when I see them used.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  20. #20

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I understand why people think Bond are overrated. It's not that really. They're fun fragrances, but they are over priced for certain. My other hobby is riding rollercoasters (seriously!) so when they brought out Coney Island I had to have it. It's funny because it's quite marine-ish and normally I hate marines, but I bought it anyway, and it's become a real staple. I don't regret buying it but do think it should have been about £50-55 the bottle rather than the £84 it actually cost me.

    As for underexposed, I blame it on the sheer number of scents that get shunted out each year - the older classics get pushed to one side to accomodate all the celebuscents and other rubbish. I've worn Mitsouko for years and yes, you can buy the EDT in most department stores, but I had to go to Harrods Haute Parfumerie to get the parfum, which used to be readily available.

    The problem is there is just for too many new scents coming out each year. But I don't think this is a problem that is going to improve any time soon.

  21. #21

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Overrated?
    I'd have to with the Bond idea- nothing wrong with them-
    But no holy grails, for me...

    Under?
    SMN
    Ava-Luxe
    Ayala, Liz, Anya
    Many drugstore loves- Emeraude, Tabu, Wind Song- to mention a few.

    And- psst-mharvey- don't smell too many Hermessences- you will like them !]

  22. #22

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Over-rated : Etro, Serge Lutens and Chanels
    Under-rated : SMN, Divine and Eau d'Italie.
    Currently wearing: Nohiba by E.Coudray

  23. #23

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    For me "rating" has something to do with cost versus quality, that's why I chose Bond as overrated. The importance of Lutens may be a bit exaggerated here, but the ingredients are first rate and you get a distinctive scent for your money.The bottles are plain and the scents are not...Bond seems to have it the other way around, IMO.
    Currently wearing: Bluebell by Penhaligon's

  24. #24

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    I always through Serge Lutens was overrated...until I got to try the Paris exclusives, now I understand what all the fuss is about.

    Underrated - The Different Company. I guess they get their fair amount of discussion on here, but I think if I had only one house to wear everyday, this one would satisfy all my moods.

    Overrated - definitely Creed. I really just don't like any of their scents. They're "nice", but nothing to jump up and down about. I also find many of them have a weird, metallic note that bothers me. Don't throw rocks please.
    Currently wearing: Oud Stars : Gao by Xerjoff

  25. #25

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Zibeline View Post
    For me "rating" has something to do with cost versus quality
    Rating is about the popularity of the scent and especially the number of stars and/or thumbs up (or down) it has received, it hasn't got much to do with its price tag.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  26. #26

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    To each his own but I do think that Parfums de Nicholai is underrated.

  27. #27

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrushka View Post
    Rating is about the popularity of the scent and especially the number of stars and/or thumbs up (or down) it has received, it hasn't got much to do with its price tag.
    Maybe that's true on Basenotes, but not elsewhere. You won't walk into Saks or anyplace else and see stars and thumbs, but you will see a huge amount of hype for some scents and not others. Also price equals quality in the minds of many, there is no cache to a scent that you bought for 18.99 online but for a scent that cost 185.00 or 395.00 the suggestion is that you bought the best out there.

    I also disagree with rating being solely a function of popularity and whether or not many people wear it. Exclusivity seems to increase the "quality" image of many things, perfume certainly being one of them. Few people would argue that Toyotas are better than Mercedes because they are more popular, for example.
    Currently wearing: Bluebell by Penhaligon's

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Example of a house that no one is going to say is over-rated:
    Demeter
    Example of a house that no one is going to say is under-rated:
    Demeter

    Just an observation.

  29. #29

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Zibeline View Post
    Maybe that's true on Basenotes, but not elsewhere.
    Not even fashion mags and other websites with perfume reviews?

    Quote Originally Posted by Zibeline View Post
    I also disagree with rating being solely a function of popularity and whether or not many people wear it. Exclusivity seems to increase the "quality" image of many things, perfume certainly being one of them. Few people would argue that Toyotas are better than Mercedes because they are more popular, for example.
    I did not say that popularity was the main, even less the sole factor, when talking about rating: the stars or thumbs are much more important, but it is a factor, too. A product with a steady long-time popularity might not necessarily be considered a five-star one, but probably at least a three-star one.

    Whenever there's yet another overrated/underrated discussion going on, I always wonder, who are the mysterious "raters" whose ratings are considered to be either "over" or "under": the masses? Professional or semi-professional perfume critics? Basenoters (and members of other fragrance forums)? Do these "raters" even exist?
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by Quarry View Post
    Example of a house that no one is going to say is over-rated:
    Demeter
    Example of a house that no one is going to say is under-rated:
    Demeter

    Just an observation.
    Actually I have seen it called underrated. Someone who thought that CdG scents were not only overrated but also "pseudocool", told everyone to get Demeter scents instead.
    Last edited by tigrushka; 12th November 2007 at 03:47 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  30. #30

    Default Re: Overrated and underrated perfume houses

    Quote Originally Posted by Zibeline View Post
    Overrated: Bond.

    I have yet to find one that justifies that expense, not one. And believe me I have stood there at Saks and tried them!

    (but I'm sure they are fabulous on some)
    Amen! I had a decant of Wall Street for a long time and it just did not seem worth getting a whole bottle for the price it costs. I only really like New Harlem. Otherwise this line is just not all that great to me. I saw a bunch of people who agreed.

    I don't agree, however, that L'Artisan is overrated. Maybe because I am such a fanatic when it comes to this line but I know that these scents are in almost everyones wardrobe and are absolutely gold. Just me though.

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