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Thread: Parure

  1. #1
    DeeOlive's Avatar
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    Talking Parure

    The perfume goddess smiled on me today.

    Got home from work and a package was waiting on the porch. I had searched the net for quite a while - hoping to snag a bottle of Parure EdT, and managed to land a tester. Ordered it along with a re-up of my Jardins de Bagatelle which is almost empty - and then after ordering - happened to read several threads here relating to a company called 1st perfume.

    Oh my. I almost wept. Had I lost my money - would it ever arrive? Am I a complete idjit?
    Sigh. I resigned myself to be the latest in a line of vics. Parure mania had me in its grips and I didn't think to check to see what other folks experiences had been. Too late, I regretted my impulse.

    But someone up there takes care of fools and perfume addicts. She (Parure) is here and I am sitting here typing in a soft haze of plum rose jasmine oakmoss scent. I have no clue why some critics have called it "musty". It is warm, soft, rich and comforting, like a velvet bathrobe.

    O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
    Chanakya

  2. #2

    Default Re: Parure

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post
    The perfume goddess smiled on me today.

    Got home from work and a package was waiting on the porch. I had searched the net for quite a while - hoping to snag a bottle of Parure EdT, and managed to land a tester. Ordered it along with a re-up of my Jardins de Bagatelle which is almost empty - and then after ordering - happened to read several threads here relating to a company called 1st perfume.

    Oh my. I almost wept. Had I lost my money - would it ever arrive? Am I a complete idjit?
    Sigh. I resigned myself to be the latest in a line of vics. Parure mania had me in its grips and I didn't think to check to see what other folks experiences had been. Too late, I regretted my impulse.

    But someone up there takes care of fools and perfume addicts. She (Parure) is here and I am sitting here typing in a soft haze of plum rose jasmine oakmoss scent. I have no clue why some critics have called it "musty". It is warm, soft, rich and comforting, like a velvet bathrobe.

    O frabjous day! Callooh! Callay!
    Isn't it beautiful? One of the most underrated Guerlain's IMO. I managed to snag a bottle of the parfum extrait on ebay.

  3. #3
    Lean in closer, dear
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    Default Re: Parure

    Celebrate good times, c'mon! [Dances to share in DeeOlive's happiness.]

    You moved me to finally lay a good spritz of Parure on my arm (a gift from ComDiva--the Parure, not the arm), and my hypothesis starts hardening into theory: I'm a sour old thing, I am. The Parure smells divine at a distance, but, oh, my bitter, sour skin undermines much.

    If not for smelling Kotori's arm in Chicago, I'd never have believed the sugar some can add to a fragrance. And some recent success with musk hinted that my own animal qualities need to be compensated for. This is why frags smell better to me on paper than on my oldie-hide.

    Oh, well, I'm the wiser, and you smell divine, Dee!
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  4. #4
    DeeOlive's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parure

    LOL Quarry - Kool and the Gang love that song. Sorry to hear that Parure doesn't work on your body chem - I figured it would be fine on me since L'Heure bleu works so well - and they are sisters - so to speak. I'm an oldie hide (aldehyde?) as well - different strokes for different folks I guess...and yes - today I do smell divine

    Thanks for enjoying my enjoyment

    SoFresh - would love to compare the parfum with my EdT - heard the plum notes are richer. One day perhaps
    Last edited by DeeOlive; 12th November 2007 at 07:30 PM.
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
    Chanakya

  5. #5

    Default Re: Parure

    I like Parure too. It's a strange scent. Kind of mix between Mitsouko and Chamade. Luca Turin thinks it's too vulgar - together with Nahéma. Well. I like the strange mix of 'dirty' oak moss (the 'musty' part) and bright fruit.

    I have vintage EdT and vintage parfum. I should wear the parfum more to be a really serious reviewer of it, but my impression is that among the different Guerlains, it's the one with the least difference between the concentrations (except for intensity of course). But still, as I always find with Guerlain, the perfume-version has heart notes that are simply pumped up, giving a more shiny and bright, and less 'dark'/'dirty'/'musty'/'rooty', impression.

    It's totally discontinued, so go hunting!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Parure

    I smelled the EDT at the Guerlain boutique and it smelled pretty darn close to the parfum I have.

  7. #7
    DeeOlive's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parure

    Mr Guerlain
    I loved your review of Parure; it helped me decide to track it down - so thank you. I will continue to hunt - since I will now have to have a few back-ups for this one prized bottle.
    It puzzles me why perfume houses decide to discontinue such beautiful scents - but I guess $$$'s are the bottom line, and Parure is not contemporary, nor as you stated on your website is it "in demand".
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
    Chanakya

  8. #8

    Default Re: Parure

    ^^ What bottle did yours come in?

  9. #9

    Default Re: Parure

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post
    Mr Guerlain
    I loved your review of Parure; it helped me decide to track it down - so thank you. I will continue to hunt - since I will now have to have a few back-ups for this one prized bottle.
    It puzzles me why perfume houses decide to discontinue such beautiful scents - but I guess $$$'s are the bottom line, and Parure is not contemporary, nor as you stated on your website is it "in demand".
    I'm glad I tipped the balance for you there! The Guerlain PR staff told me that they simply must make priorities and that Parure didn't sell much. I think they are quite right that they have a dilemma between keeping the back catalogue and giving space for new interesting stuff (like Spiritueuse Double Vanille!!)

    I think it's fair enough, all in all. But we gotta search, Parure is not so easy to find in any version anywhere...

  10. #10
    DeeOlive's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parure

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh View Post
    ^^ What bottle did yours come in?
    this was a tester - so I wouldn't call it a bottle - there are pics of it on the 1st perfume site.

    The Jardins de Bagatelle EDP came in the bottle with the square gold cap, exactly like the one I already have.

    I did my search - the only two places that seem to have Parure have these testers - and they are the same company, according to the warning posts here. I guess I'll have to pray to the Perfume Goddess and try my luck again.
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
    Chanakya

  11. #11

    Default Re: Parure

    It's interesting how these classic Guerlains (and so many classic frags)create such big reactions - real love and hate stuff. I guess back then they weren't afraid to create fragrances that some people would actively dislike. Were they braver then? Were people's senses of smell more broad? Or have we become weak little kittens, spoiled by decades of toilet cleaner and airfreshener to be unable to accept things that are a little more interesting?
    Personally, I'm one of those poor unfortunates who doesn't get on with oakmoss, so Parure absolutely doesn't do it for me and I can only just bear Mitsouko. (I know - heresy!) That's one reason I"m so glad Guerlain keeps its back catalogue open - I have had the opportunity to fall in love with Vol de Nuit, Jicky and L'Heure Bleue and am itching to try Apres L'Ondee as well as Spiriteuse Double Vanilla.
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729

  12. #12

    Default Re: Parure

    Quote Originally Posted by Wordbird View Post
    It's interesting how these classic Guerlains (and so many classic frags)create such big reactions - real love and hate stuff. I guess back then they weren't afraid to create fragrances that some people would actively dislike. Were they braver then? Were people's senses of smell more broad? Or have we become weak little kittens, spoiled by decades of toilet cleaner and airfreshener to be unable to accept things that are a little more interesting?
    Personally, I'm one of those poor unfortunates who doesn't get on with oakmoss, so Parure absolutely doesn't do it for me and I can only just bear Mitsouko. (I know - heresy!) That's one reason I"m so glad Guerlain keeps its back catalogue open - I have had the opportunity to fall in love with Vol de Nuit, Jicky and L'Heure Bleue and am itching to try Apres L'Ondee as well as Spiriteuse Double Vanilla.
    I think you're right...I think they had less pressure to create something that would have mass market appeal. I find that the current department store offerings are usually bland, and the niche stuff is almost too daring...like they have something to prove.

    Ah well, I guess there are enough releases now to always release something that we'll like...we just have a lot more to weed through now.

  13. #13
    DeeOlive's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parure

    The only Guerlain I haven't been able to wear is Samsara - though I loved it on my mom. Am having fun exploring others though. Wordbird - I too am itching to try Apres L'Ondee - have not heard of Spiriteuse Double Vanilla - but will read up on it and try to get a sample.

    Though I heard complaints about the reformulation of Champs Elysées (I have the 1996 one) I like it - it is lighter than L'Heure Bleu; on me the melon and peach notes are refreshing - I can't tease out the anise. Would love to compare it to the original.
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
    Chanakya

  14. #14

    Default Re: Parure

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post
    The only Guerlain I haven't been able to wear is Samsara - though I loved it on my mom. Am having fun exploring others though. Wordbird - I too am itching to try Apres L'Ondee - have not heard of Spiriteuse Double Vanilla - but will read up on it and try to get a sample.

    Though I heard complaints about the reformulation of Champs Elysées (I have the 1996 one) I like it - it is lighter than L'Heure Bleu; on me the melon and peach notes are refreshing - I can't tease out the anise. Would love to compare it to the original.
    Apres l'Ondee is quite beautiful...violets & iris...very cool & damp smelling. I'd love to get my hands on some of the extrait...its currently on available in EDT in the bee bottle. The topnotes I find a bit strange, but overall its quite beautiful.

  15. #15
    DeeOlive's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parure

    What is strange about the topnotes Sofresh?
    ozMoz says they are : Lemon, Bergamot, Neroli, Blackcurrant (sounds interesting)
    Middle note : Carnation, Violet, Mimosa, Sandalwood
    Base note : Vanilla, Benzoin, Iris roots, Heliotrope
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
    Chanakya

  16. #16

    Default Re: Parure

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post
    What is strange about the topnotes Sofresh?
    ozMoz says they are : Lemon, Bergamot, Neroli, Blackcurrant (sounds interesting)
    Middle note : Carnation, Violet, Mimosa, Sandalwood
    Base note : Vanilla, Benzoin, Iris roots, Heliotrope
    Isn't it funny how notes can differ depending on the source?

    From Guerlain's website:

    head note : aniseed note, cassia note
    heart notes : violet, carnation
    base notes : iris, vanilla notes

    Your topnotes sound lovely...mine...not so much. I think its the cassia (not to be confused with cassie, a la freddy malle). Its a weird, tangy note...hard to describe. Maybe Mr. Guerlain can help me describe it? Might just be me, but I find parfum/extrait concentrations have the biggest difference in the topnotes...that's why I was hoping to try it to see if its the case with AL (wishful thinking of course).
    Last edited by Dane; 16th November 2007 at 01:00 AM.

  17. #17
    DeeOlive's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parure

    I guess it doesn't really matter what notes it has since I can't find a bottle of it anywhere except offered on ebay by someone in Japan

    Oh well - another prayer to the Perfume Goddess is in order - maybe I'll find one at a yard sale.
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
    Chanakya

  18. #18

    Default Re: Parure

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post
    I guess it doesn't really matter what notes it has since I can't find a bottle of it anywhere except offered on ebay by someone in Japan

    Oh well - another prayer to the Perfume Goddess is in order - maybe I'll find one at a yard sale.
    Can you call your closest Guerlain boutique to ship it to you? (I assume Manhattan)

  19. #19
    DeeOlive's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parure

    Checked all the stores that carry Guerlain in Manhattan - none have it. But you inspired me to keep checking - found a review which mentioned a source in England. So have ordered from scent direct uk - gift wrapped - lol - for me from Santa
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
    Chanakya

  20. #20

    Default Re: Parure

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post
    Checked all the stores that carry Guerlain in Manhattan - none have it. But you inspired me to keep checking - found a review which mentioned a source in England. So have ordered from scent direct uk - gift wrapped - lol - for me from Santa
    Try Guerlain in Toronto (where I got mine).

    416-929-6114

    If you still have trouble, let me know and I'm sure I can track down a bottle for you.

    edit - oh...so, you already ordered the bottle from England??!
    Last edited by Dane; 16th November 2007 at 08:03 PM.

  21. #21
    DeeOlive's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parure

    Thanks sofresh - I'll keep Toronto in mind for future Guerlain hunts - am planning to drive up there in the spring - where is the store located?
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
    Chanakya

  22. #22

    Default Re: Parure

    Guerlain is on Bloor (with the rest of the upscale stores).

  23. #23
    DeeOlive's Avatar
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    Default Re: Parure

    Quote Originally Posted by sofresh View Post
    Try Guerlain in Toronto (where I got mine).

    416-929-6114

    If you still have trouble, let me know and I'm sure I can track down a bottle for you.

    edit - oh...so, you already ordered the bottle from England??!
    Thanks for the info on the Toronto source - the English seller cancelled my order. So called Toronto and they are happy to ship!

    Nice to know that I don't have to wait to drive up there this summer.
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
    Chanakya

  24. #24

    Default Re: Parure

    Quote Originally Posted by DeeOlive View Post
    Thanks for the info on the Toronto source - the English seller cancelled my order. So called Toronto and they are happy to ship!

    Nice to know that I don't have to wait to drive up there this summer.
    You're very welcome...all the ladies that work there are very nice.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Parure

    I am wearing this today, for the 1st time - and I concur with Mr. Guerlain as it being sort of a cross between Mitsouko and Chamade. Although (maybe it's the aldehydes) I also am reminded a bit of Chant de Aromes.

    Has anyone smelled the Eau de Cologne of this, and care to comment on the differences between it and the EdT which I am smelling now?
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  26. #26

    Default Re: Parure

    You don't think it's the oakmoss-vetiver-bergamot mix that reminds you of Chant d'Arômes? Not really sure there are any aldehydes in Parure. Parure is such a special scent, have never smelled anything like it, so masculine and leathery, yet rosy, and to me the big sister of Derby who should have been released in 1976 if you ask me! Parure has really become my secret Guerlain jewel. BTW: I finally chose the famous Yoko Ono pic for the Parure period, think it fits nicely: http://monsieurguerlain2.blogspot.co....html#equality

    Parure EdC is very close to the EdT, just less longevity. I think the potency of the fragrance makes it difficult to really alter - normally the Guerlain EdC's are more herbal and mellow, but not this one...

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I am wearing this today, for the 1st time - and I concur with Mr. Guerlain as it being sort of a cross between Mitsouko and Chamade. Although (maybe it's the aldehydes) I also am reminded a bit of Chant de Aromes.

    Has anyone smelled the Eau de Cologne of this, and care to comment on the differences between it and the EdT which I am smelling now?

  27. #27

    Default Re: Parure

    I went to get Chant d'Aromes at Imaginationperfumery and they were closed down. So regretting my delay. Congratulations on your score! I would love Parure and Apres L'Ondee in bee bottles, too.

  28. #28

    Default Re: Parure

    Parure to me is a glowing, ghostly jewel in my sample collection. I have about three drops left in a generous sample that was gifted to me, (thanks to good old bbBd who obtained his bottle from a Paris shopper, btw) It was instant infatuation at first sniff for me, and the full wearings I allowed myself were luxurious orgies of celebration in it.

    Don't have the flexibility in my wallet to hunt for a bottle at the moment, but I am treasuring the ghost in my sample box.
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Parure

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Guerlain View Post
    You don't think it's the oakmoss-vetiver-bergamot mix that reminds you of Chant d'Arômes? Not really sure there are any aldehydes in Parure. ...

    Parure EdC is very close to the EdT, just less longevity. I think the potency of the fragrance makes it difficult to really alter - normally the Guerlain EdC's are more herbal and mellow, but not this one...
    Maybe it is those notes that seem 'sharp' and 'shiny' to my nose - it could be. Although I am very sensitive to aldehydes, much more than most people.

    Thanks for confirming what I thought, about the EdC. Another Basenoter said the same thing you did, that the EdC and the EdT are almost alike.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  30. #30

    Default Re: Parure

    There's a Parure 'sucrier' bottle for sale on Ebay UK. It's the prettiest thing:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GUERLAIN-PARUR...item33526dea88
    This week, 'Chanel Cuir de Russie: Skin Scent' at http://thescentimentalist.blogspot.com/

  31. #31

    Default Re: Parure

    The plum note in Parure is a real lesson in how fruit notes were handled by the masters before the term "fruity floral" or fruity anything, really - became an equivalent for "mediocre". It is similar to how plum is inserted into Silences by Jacomo - not sweet, not jammy, but green and almost astringent - think of how a piece of plum peel tastes - it's bitter, right? Parure to me has always been a dusk scent - I always associate the slipping of daylight into darkness with it, similar to the way others feel about L'Heure Bleu. I believe the large splash bottle of Parure that I used up was in eau de cologne concentration, although back in the '80s when I purchased it, Guerlain's edcs were of a strength comparable to today's edts. I also went through a small edp spray, but not in the gold-cage bottle. I almost bought a bottle of Parure in extrait back in the '80s, with that fantastic stopper made of grey glass shaped like a wind-whipped flag or an ocean wave. I truly wish I had acted on that thought while it was still possible!
    Last edited by Jardanel; 29th October 2009 at 06:06 PM.

  32. #32
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    Default Re: Parure

    Honestly, if I hadn't read the Basenotes reviews, I would never have called the note I smell in Parure is plum. It smells fruity, but like you said it has that acidic, varnish-like quality to it. Of course, now I smell it and my mind/nose registers: plum!

    Today, wearing it again, I am again amazed at the similarities to Chamade.

    I'm still not sure if I like Parure.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 29th October 2009 at 06:13 PM.
    "You are here to enable the Divine purpose of the Universe to unfold. That is how important you are."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  33. #33

    Default Re: Parure

    For those looking:

    I found a 1oz bottle of the EDT at Palm Beach perfumes for around $99. The only other Guerlain they have is Shalimar.
    Hearts starve as well as bodies; give us bread, but give us roses.
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