Here's a link to an interesting article about the use of synthetics in perfumery. It isn't all doom and gloom, and shows an appreciation for the art of it all rather than just villainizing the entire industry.
Top Five: Oud Wood, Aventus, Kyoto, Rose 31, Tam Dao
So the three classes of molecules are:
This is interesting:
One independent perfumer – Andy Tauer, of the small, Zurich-based company Tauer Perfumes – told me why he doesn’t put too much stock in platitudes about natural materials: “Looking at the extraction processes involving boiling water or organic solvents, in a factory-like environment, I have to admit that the term ‘natural’ looses part of its attractiveness. These ‘natural’ extracts are man-made: what is left of our beloved lavender flowers after distillation and extraction of their oil is a pile of brownish junk, cooked to oblivion, by brutal men, but still called natural.”
Last edited by zztopp; 14th November 2007 at 10:43 PM.
I can't believe Rich Hippie writes that wishwash on their website!
Finally, a well-researched, article that's not just a bunch of throw away bits of insider knowledge interspersed with forced flights of metaphorical hyperbole as one main press "perfume" critic is wont to do.
Thanks for bring the article to our attention madvillain.
Isolates are just that, isolated chemicals that exist in nature. Rose - and many other plants' - essential oil contains geraniol, so geraniol by itself can be considered an isolate.
"Nature identical" is often used in scent bases and perfume oils to describe mixtures of various substances imitating natural substances through isolates and synthetics ( though some contain some natural component as well ).
Isolates can be nature derived, that is isolated from the natural compounds in which they exist, through various extractive mechanical and chemical processes, or the same isolates can be chemically derived from a compound that has got nothing to do with the original natural compound in which the isolates exist. Some isolates can be derived from petrochemicals through chemicals processes. The difference between the nature derived isolates and the chemically derived non-nature derived isolates is a difference of purity. The latter being purer than the former. The paradox is that while the purer isolate gives perfumer consistency, the naturally derived isolates give them more nuanced effects because of the impurities that remain and that frequently add to the complexity of the scent profile that produces a more "natural" effect because of such impurities
Last edited by scentemental; 15th November 2007 at 02:33 AM.
quite an article. I am a subscriber to AdBusters actually (it seems canadians and the brits are the only guys who possess good journalism these days). I can't wait until this issue comes and I can read it all again.