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  1. #1

    Default Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    I've never been one to be close minded about notes in a fragrance, in the 20 years I've been wearing them I've been pretty open minded. I'll give something a fair shake before I dismiss it, and I've had no problems wearing some 'odd' scents in my day.

    CdG, I'm looking at you.

    But I must confess a closet bigotry against one note, and I have no logical reason for it.

    Patchouli.

    I *know* that it's not a dirty hippie smell but for some reason I've avoided buying almost anything patchouli based before. Two things have changed my mind as of late however.
    1: New Haarlem. The patchouli in it is very subtle but I can still detect it. I've worn this for about a year now and that's what started me thinking about exploring it further.
    2: A girl I work with wears a perfume that with her body chemistry brings patchouli to the forefront, and the only thing dirty about it is what it makes me want to do every time I smell it. The patchouli on her is very smooth, not dry, not creamy, far from musty smelling.

    With that in mind, I did a quick search in the directory for patchouli scents and I'm trying to figure out where to start. Right off the bat I'm eliminating Patchouli Patch by LaP because I'm not a fan of overy sweet smells period. The top three appear to be the offering by Santa Maria Novella, Etro, and Loernzo Villoresi. The Etro and LV scents seem to be described as deep and brooding while the SMN is more dry and perhaps medicinal. I like deep and brooding, perfect for cold weather and the places I end up hanging out at this time of year. So I'm trying to figure out which one to buy. I've had longevity issues with every SMN I've tried before, and I've never owned an Etro or LV.

    Etro seems to fade fasted into a more tame oriental base while the LV based on the reviews lasts longer with more bite. I think I'll order the LV this weekend, but until I place the order, what are your thoughts on the matter? What would you advise as a starter patchouli, and is there even a more mainstream scent that I'm missing?


    Edit: Although for the SMN scent there appears to be a full line of soaps and aftershaves to perhaps enhance the longevity. Hmmm.
    Last edited by shalashaska; 7th November 2007 at 02:53 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    I had a real patchouli bias when I started here too, so I can relate.
    I am sorry to hear that you scratched Patchouli Patch off the list, I think it is worth a try.
    I would also recommend the SMN Patchouli. That's a nice wet patchouli with no mustiness.
    And I would give Jalaine patchouli a try just for the heck of it. In the interest of ART shall we say. It will most likely be too sweet for your taste, but it is luscious and intoxicating.
    Aedes.com has samples of some of these.
    I know bow out to others here , far more experienced than I ....
    oh and Voleur de Roses. Try that one.
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  3. #3

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    I vote you try Patchouli Leaves by Montale. I've heard nothing but great stuff about it!

  4. #4

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    I get strong patchouli notes in Rive Gauche and Givenchy Gentleman. Both are pretty well liked 'round here. So those are some to consider if you're open to suggestions that aren't patchouli-specific scents.
    "It's not what you look like when you're doing what you're doing; it's what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing."

  5. #5

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    SMN's Patchouli is AMAZING! This is patchouli for patchouli purists.
    You mention you've had longevity issues with this house... well, I can assure you, you will have no sorts of longevity issues with this one. It can wear you out, almost.
    Definitely not one you would want to ease your way into catagorically as a starting point... unless you're brave.
    I would only guess that the bath and body line is offered as an alternative for those not willing to take this fragrance in full strength of the edt.
    Last edited by Quixotiq; 7th November 2007 at 11:35 AM.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    Everyone knows that if you ease your way into a swimming pool, it's a long, unpleasant ordeal before you're finally in. The right way to enter a pool is to jump in. Cowards freeze a thousand times, a brave man only once.

    In this spirit, I recommend Lauder for Men.




    What?

  7. #7

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    Quote Originally Posted by Xplo View Post
    Everyone knows that if you ease your way into a swimming pool, it's a long, unpleasant ordeal before you're finally in. The right way to enter a pool is to jump in. Cowards freeze a thousand times, a brave man only once.
    Excellent analogy.

    SMN would be jumping into the deep end. Go for it!

    Not so brave? Try these:

    Tommy Bahama (2005) Sichuan pepper, elemi, coriander, bergamot, sage, incense caraway, ginger Root, patchouli, vetiver, musk, guaiac wood, amber.

    Miller Harris - Feuilles de Tabac. Cuban cascarilla oil, pimento berries, pine needles, sage, tobacco, tonka bean, Malay patchouli.

    Both are dry and aromatic with a very pronounced but "clean and smooth" patchouli. Easy to wear, non-offensive, can be worn year-round, great lasting power..and smells terrific!
    Last edited by Quixotiq; 7th November 2007 at 12:29 PM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    Ok, SMN patchouli it is then! I've never been one to half ass something so if this is the King Kong of the genre, I'll start with it and work my way down.

    http://www.lafcony.com has both the cologne and the soap so I'll most likely order it from them. My only concern is that I'm sort of retarded when it comes to splash bottles, and by sort of I mean I have zero idea of how to apply it properly so I'll most likely buy an atomizer.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    Quote Originally Posted by shalashaska View Post
    Ok, SMN patchouli it is then! I've never been one to half ass something so if this is the King Kong of the genre, I'll start with it and work my way down.

    http://www.lafcony.com has both the cologne and the soap so I'll most likely order it from them. My only concern is that I'm sort of retarded when it comes to splash bottles, and by sort of I mean I have zero idea of how to apply it properly so I'll most likely buy an atomizer.
    Good for you - going straight to the top of the pile, huh?

    Please post your thoughts on this - I have not sniffed it, but I've wanted to for a while now.
    "The beginning of freedom is the realization that you are not the "thinker." The moment you start watching the thinker, a higher level of consciousness becomes activated. You then begin to realize that there is a vast realm of intelligence beyond thought, that thought is only a tiny aspect of that intelligence. You also realize that all the things that truly matter - beauty, love, creativity, joy, inner peace - arise from beyond the mind.

    You begin to awaken"

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  10. #10

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    Said that I like patchouli a lot finding it not dirty nor musty at all but warm, embracing and at max earthy sometimes (like the patchouli in antaeus), I've never come to like Patchouli Patch cuz of his heady pungent opening.
    One of my latest discoveries for patchouli juices is Mazzolari Lui, a slightly spiced full bodied round patchouli which embraces you with his tenderness, like a pashmina in the fall cold days. Worth a try.

    P.S. Again and again... Rive gauche PH is all about guajacwood, no patchouli there.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    Quote Originally Posted by Magnifiscent View Post
    One of my latest discoveries for patchouli juices is Mazzolari Lui, a slightly spiced full bodied round patchouli which embraces you with his tenderness, like a pashmina in the fall cold days. Worth a try.
    Damn, I've heard alot of talk on this board lately about Lui and was debating trying it, but it's more of a patchouli blend.....

    Hmmmm, I have an idea. All of these would be blind buys for me. Lui might be the 'safe' bet for now since it's a blend of patchouli and vetiver+ leather. I'm going up to NYC around the first or second week of december with a friend of mine, I'll take her with me to the SMN boutique and try the patchouli on there and see if it agrees with me and I'll get her opinion on it too.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    Bump!

    I've been monkeying around with patchouli for a while myself in an attempt to fill a gap in my carefully limited wardrobe. To date, I've tried the following:

    Voleur de Roses - the intoxicating rose and patchouli opening mutates into something horrible on my skin.

    Intrigant Patchouli - not what I'd expect from patchouli. It's tangy and bouyant, yet still somehow animalic. I like it a lot. The only one I could imagine wearing in the summer.

    Patchouli Patch - seems somehow muted and leaves me entirely indifferent.

    Real Patchouli, Profumum Patchouly, Mazzolari Patchouli - all smoky, dark, and chock full of amber. Each is outstanding, but all quickly turn into straight amber scents on my skin. I have all the amber scents I want right now.

    Patchouli Antique - starts out promising, but fades extremely quickly into a powdery, polite musk. I want more darkness and danger.

    Mazzolari Lui - much more than patchouli here, but the patchouli still stands out. I like this for its smokiness and its distinctive leathery drydown.

    I haven't gotten my hands on Patchouli Leaves or SMN Patchouli yet, but am eager to try both. My favorites to date are the very different Intrigant Patchouli and Mazzolari Lui.

    Anyone have further thoughts on these, or suggestions as to what else I should try?

  13. #13

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    Mazzolari Lui will smell somewhat dirty at first, but unpacks itself in a very feline and luxurious manner. It is spellbinding. Literally. Wear it on exposed skin in sub-50-degrees (F) weather for it really to "pop".

    Voleur de Roses is Lui with a fresh rose nosegay. And I mean this in a good way. The Lui beast tamed and wrestled at least into a pink collar.

    Get both VdR and Lui for a sort of point-counterpoint debate between refinement and animalic lust, respectively.

    And also get Givenchy Gentlemen, which stands in a very discreet room off the high street to watch through a peep-hole the aforementioned two go at it.
    Last edited by Circa1905; 20th November 2007 at 03:03 AM. Reason: what do you care?

  14. #14

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    To my way of thinking Lui by the inestimable Mazzolari is only partially a patchouli paradise, it has a lot of other things in it, and it has much of motor oil and memory as it is patchouli. That being said it is almost impossible to describe this thing called Lui, and I would think one would have to be able to say the Bach Cello suites were solo pieces for cello and leave it at that as to say Lui is this or that. It is something that one would describe as being how one found it, as a work of art which is the culmination of many ingredients. It could have been the fragrance of Picasso.
    Last edited by Joe_Frances; 20th November 2007 at 03:07 AM.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    Quote Originally Posted by Vibert View Post
    Anyone have further thoughts on these, or suggestions as to what else I should try?
    Two that I think are excellent are Etro's Patchouly and Caswell-Massey's Aura of Patchouli. [Edit --- But, you have already written a thumbsup review of Patchouly, so that just leaves me with Caswell-Massey's entry ]
    Last edited by TwoRoads; 20th November 2007 at 04:38 AM.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  16. #16

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe_Frances View Post
    To my way of thinking Lui by the inestimable Mazzolari is only partially a patchouli paradise, it has a lot of other things in it, and it has much of motor oil and memory as it is patchouli. That being said it is almost impossible to describe this thing called Lui, and I would think one would have to be able to say the Bach Cello suites were solo pieces for cello and leave it at that as to say Lui is this or that. It is something that one would describe as being how one found it, as a work of art which is the culmination of many ingredients. It could have been the fragrance of Picasso.
    I am wearing Lui today. Two sprays under the shirt. Dear Lord, what a fantastic fragrance Lui is. Heaven's tears.

  17. #17

    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    Rochas Lui is a superb neroli and patchouli combo, and easily one of the best buys on the market today.

    I'd suggest Ava Luxe's Patchouli Leaves if you fancy a very dry, fairly linear patchouli; however, it would be rather a moot suggestion in that Serena's on her sabbatical (or whatever it is) right now.

    Montale's Patchouli Leaves is magnificent stuff, but best avoided if you're not a fan of amber. (TONS of amber here.) I happen to love it, yes, but not everyone might. INCREDIBLE sillage and longevity here, and it only takes a little of this stuff to get you through the day.

    Caswell-Massey's Aura of Patchouli is a very strong, very linear patchouli that I think might put you off if you don't like that earthy ("dirty hippie") kind of patchouli. I do not associate patchouli with hippies; however, I know the scent you're talking about. I find it in spades in CM's Aura of Patchouli. I myself like it, and I also like the CM price tag. But, that all said, it's not for everyone. You should be able to sample CM's Aura of Patchouli fairly easily -- just look up their retailers on the website.

    Patchouli Patch? Good for a sweet patchouli, but otherwise not the best choice. I found it too sweet for my personal tastes, and quite feminine. Also, the patchouli (in spite of the frag's name) seems to take a second seat to other scents therein. (But each to his/her own.)

    Etro's Patchouly is decent enough, yes, but its longevity (or, rather, the lack thereof) is an issue for me.

    I've yet to try the Mazzolari and Santa Maria Novella patchoulis so widely praised here on Basenotes, but I hear they're both very good.
    Last edited by tvlampboy; 20th November 2007 at 03:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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    Latrelle: "What?"
    Peggy: "Brother Boy has tried to kill himself. He jumped out of his bedroom window."
    Latrelle: "Isn't he only on the second floor?"
    Peggy: "Yes, but he hit his head on a lawn gnome."
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  18. #18
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    Default Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    Quote Originally Posted by tvlampboy View Post
    ...Montale's Patchouli Leaves is magnificent stuff, but best avoided if you're not a fan of amber. (TONS of amber here.) I happen to love it, yes, but not everyone might. INCREDIBLE sillage and longevity here, and it only takes a little of this stuff to get you through the day...

    ...Patchouli Patch? Good for a sweet patchouli, but otherwise not the best choice. I found it too sweet for my personal tastes, and quite feminine. Also, the patchouli (in spite of the frag's name) seems to take a second seat to other scents therein. (But each to his/her own.)...
    Regarding the Montale (and the Profumum and Real Patchouly and Mazzolari Patchouli,) it's not that I don't love amber. It's just that a scent that smells primarily of amber after an hour or so is somewhat redundant in my wardrobe. Hence the attraction of Intrigant Patchouli and Mazzolari Lui which, as Joe_Frances rightly points out, is much more than just a "patchouli" scent.

    My impressions of Patchouli Patch are very, very close to yours: patchouli is a passenger, not the driver!
    Last edited by Off-Scenter; 20th November 2007 at 06:30 PM.

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