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  1. #1

    Default 25 years of Amouage

    Amouage is reminding us of their jubilee with new fragrances:

    Jubilation 25
    - f

    Jubilation XXV - m

    http://www.amouage.com/


    Turin looks at their short history here: Amouage

    Last edited by narcus; 3rd December 2007 at 10:14 PM. Reason: add another link
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  2. #2

    Default Re: 25 years of Amouage

    Ciao Narcus,
    Luca and Tania were invited a few weeks ago to Oman for the 25 th aniversary of Amouage.
    Do you know if he has written anything yet about it?

    AbdusSalaam Attar
    www.profumo.it
    http://naturalperfume.blogspot.com

  3. #3

    Default Re: 25 years of Amouage

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    Do you know if he has written anything yet about it?
    Yes, Salaam - click here please >>>>: http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=189020
    I that thread, look for post Sept. 3rd:
    Amouage It seems they have enjoyed their stay, too!
    Last edited by narcus; 3rd December 2007 at 10:17 PM. Reason: added link: Amouage
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  4. #4

    Default Re: 25 years of Amouage

    Sorry Narcus, I still do not find the text you mention at that link.
    Quoting Luca:
    " You must reissue Coty classics in the original formulations. Do not let anyone tell you it can’t be done, because it’s done already. As it happens, I have before me four smelling strips of the “confidential” Coty reconstructions done by perfumer Daphné Bugey at Firmenich last year. They are Emeraude, la Rose Jacqueminot, L’Origan and Jasmin de Corse. They are all in full conformity with IFRA rules, and could be on the market in short order if you say so. How do they smell ? Heavenly. They will be an object lesson to all those who hide behind modern regulations to deface the great monuments of fragrance. Spare no expense in this labor of love. Neither will your customers."

    I rarely saw him becoming so lyric about fragrances, "monument", "heavenly"...
    it is very interesting to note, also for basenoters, that the difference between the original formula and the later ones is in the quantity of natural ingredients they contain.
    The rules of IFRA that Luca mentions are those who have been forbidding perfumers to use natural ingredients in their perfumes on pseudo medical grounds that promote the idea that synthetic is safer than natural.

    I feel to comment that Luca has a great nose for perfumes and those who think that he does not apreciate natural scents are wrong. He is the kind of poet able to delight himself with simple smells like lavender or Bergamot .

    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    www.profumo.it
    http://profuminaturali.blogspot.com/

  5. #5

    Default Re: 25 years of Amouage

    Profumo - you need to go to the last post on that thread.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  6. #6

    Default Re: 25 years of Amouage

    Thank you Duckinder, at last I got it.
    I find very significant that luca writes so much about the trip and so little about the perfume.
    He surely is a gentleman, and the overwhelming ospitality of the arabs has impressed him, but he cannot be bought.
    It seems that there is not much to say about these new amouage, even if they are very good.

    It is so strange to me that the people who originated the art and phylosophy of perfume are so desparately poor of living culture that they have to call some french man to make the scent of the arabs.
    It is true that a major quality of the Arabs has always been to recognize in other people the best that they had, and to be able to assimilate it and develope it (medicine, architecture, agriculture), it is also true that the best of Arabic art is the fruit of non arabs (calligraphy, Qirat), so much their culture is able to recognize and accept the good wherever it comes from, but I must say that today, they have falllen, in the same sense that the arabic language gives to this verb about Adam when he lost the Eden.

    AbdesSalaam Attar
    Composer Perfumer
    www.profumo.it
    http://profuminaturali.blogspot.com/

  7. #7

    Default Re: 25 years of Amouage

    Quote Originally Posted by Profumo View Post
    He surely is a gentleman, and the overwhelming hospitality of the arabs has impressed him, but he cannot be bought. It seems that there is not much to say about these new amouage, even if they are very good[...]
    I am not so sure, if LT wouldn't know more to say. He may do that in his 'Guide' which is being finalized these days. The Folio Column is actually not the place to publish perfume reviews. If you read more of these, you will notice that reviews are only part of a more general subject. The purpose of this article is to shed a light on a modern Oriental manufacturer of perfumes. It isn't about their latest releases, whose names LT does not even mention. There is a delightful little game being played on the side: In the middle of his text LT writes: "I had rehearsed a speech exhorting him to hire the orientalist perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour for his next fragrance." And only at the end he brings the surprising pointe: creator of Jubilation (at least of No XXV ) is that very Duchaufour ! Tying the ends together, I interpret his opinion on XXV as unambiguous, if hidden praise. For once, he does not elaborate on the feminine perfume, and we are free to draw whatever conclusions from the little he did say.

    As to hiring French specialists: the Saudis hired Pierre Montale, the Omanis Robertet, and Shiseido built their success on Serge Lutens. It does make sense, when you want to go West with your merchandise.

    (Sorry, that my Amouage link wasn't easy to find for a while. I hope I could mend that.)
    Last edited by narcus; 3rd December 2007 at 11:15 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  8. #8

    Default Re: 25 years of Amouage

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    I am not so sure, if LT wouldn't know more to say. He may do that in his 'Guide' which is being finalized these days
    Ciao Narcus, I did not take this into consideration but you may be right, the Duchaufour coup de théatre also points in this sense. We may get a very special review for these 2 scents in the new book.
    You seem well informed about him, I was expecting the book in April.
    About french men, being french myself allow me to have some contempt for a number of them, I teach my students that the only way we have to know that our perfume is good is when the people buy it, but when I see all the horrors (far worst than simple crap) sold in perfumery shops I must add that this is a necessary but not a sufficient condition.
    Anyway I found most interesting for me as a Natural perfumer the part about old formulas and new IFRA regulations.
    I cant wait to read the new book.
    AbdesSalaam Attar

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