Best. Thread. Title. Ever.
Something I've noticed from reviews is that some of my favorite leathers - Dzing!, Tabac Blond and Knize Ten - have all been described as being as "full of castoreum". If so, this is evidently a note I quite enjoy.
Can anyone suggest other fragrances that highlight this note? I've noticed it tends to get less press than musk and ambergris, but I really would be curious to smell it in other fragrance guises.
Best. Thread. Title. Ever.
Muscs Koublai Khan contains castoreum, along with costus root, civet, and lord knows what other "backside" notes. If I remember correctly, Yatagan also includes a generous dose of castoreum.
Wonder about the 1st dude that was like:
"Here, smell this!" (while gutting a beaver)
Don't know about removing animal notes, but there is a trend towards replacing natural with synthetics in general. Chanel replaced natural civet with synthetics a few years ago due to consumer concern over animal welfare, and, a different topic, many *allegedly* allergy-causing natural ingrediants are under attack and being voluntarily replaced with synthetics by manufacturers in line with fragrance industry organization codes. Many believe this is actually a smokescreen, and the real goal is to save money as synthetics are often less expensive. Given that the actual formula is actually very inexpensive (the real markup money goes into packaging, marketing, advertising, and profit), I don't know about this reasoning.
Second Cabochard by Gres.
Look for the vintage perfume (black-n-white box, like the birchtree pattern), it is most castoreum thing.
And want to add something.
L`Antimatiere by LesNez - it`s quite close to Dzing!
Antaeus by Chanel, Van Cleef & Arpels pour Homme, Aramis by Aramis, Santos de Cartier, Bel Ami by Hermes, Bandit by Piguet (vintage), Russisch Leder by Farina Gegenuber - almost all fragrances of Chypre Cuir contains castoreum.
Vetiver The Great!!!
There is no moral rule in marketing that forces to mention £sinthetic rose", "civettone", "reconstitued tuberose". It is enough for me to smell what people wear to understand that there is not a drop of natural inside. The only one that uses it in doses that I can smell is Guerlain.
Two days ago arrived a customer in office without appointment and perfumed, I refused to receive her, I told her that I receive only on appointment after advising the person to come not perfumed, that her perfume was terrible and that I could not stand it.
"It is Chanel" she told me.
Her companion was wearing a cheap white musk fragrance just like the one you can buy in bazaar or oriental shop, "it is Kubilai musk" he told me.
There is a real need for an olfactory education today, our tastes have been subverted and hijacked to the lucrous benefit of the industry, I am quite sure that 30 years ago when perfumes were more natural (do you remember old spice) they would not have made it selling the stuff they produce now.
I haven't tried the current Cabochard edt, but I have read that it was quite drastically reformulated. I have parfum and edp, both of which are quite dry and animalic and a bottle of vintage parfum, that I haven't opened yet to compare.
Patchouli 24 by Le Labo - folded into a healthy dose of smoke, rubber and vanilla