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  1. #1

    Default Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    These fragrances are both based around the intriguing combination of iris and leather, so I thought it might be interesting to compare the two. My sample of Cuir Ottoman came today, and I was quite surprised by how different they were from each other.

    Cuir Ottoman opens with a sweet, powdery, almost tangy violet note. This is probably caused by the orris, but the orris here is so strongly modified by the other florals as to send it directly into violet territory. The scent almost reminded me of Parma Violet candies, which were favorites of mine as a kid.
    The leather entered fairly soon after the brightness of the top notes faded, but is very soft. While related to the leather note in Tabac Blond - the closest as far as my nose has experiences - it's far, far more mellow than that leather or for that matter, any of the other leathers I've experienced. If this was translated into leather, it would be sueded cotton. It is, however, a realistic leather note, especially as its presence becomes more noticeable in the dry down.
    I didn't sense the other florals too strongly. I think I might have smelled a touch of rose, but no jasmine, despite it being listed.
    The base notes came as a surprise to me. Instead of the more typical top, mid and base sections I seem to find two distinct base note sections. The first happened about five hours after I put it on, when the leather faded and the violet morphed into a recognizable orris note, that scent dominating for some time. After about two hours of this, the orris mellowed out, bringing forward the benzoin and balsam, a gentle vanillic quality initiating the second base section. The smell is almost gourmand; I'm reminded of fresh-baked sugar cookies. There's a slight impression of almond, too; those who've experienced Farnesiana will find it in miniature here, hidden in the last phase of this fragrance.

    Cuir D'Iris is a very different fragrance, robust where Ottoman is mellow, strong where it's soft, earthy and cool where it's warm and airy.
    Cuir d'Iris opens quite bright and sparkling. Intense, alive orris root, not violet-like but floral in a different way. There are more notes than orris in the opening notes, but I must admit my fragrance nomenclature fails me. If someone knows what I mean by the sparkling quality then feel free to step in; it would be nice to know what it is, and the official set of notes doesn't help here.
    Almost immediately after the champagne-orris opening, the leather enters, fairly strong, but playing second fiddle to iris. This is a fairly aggressive leather, but clean, in a new leather jacket way. The vetiver becomes noticeable fairly soon too; this isn't a vetiver that hides until the base notes.
    I know some others have complained that the iris disappears on them, but I really have to wonder if that is possible bar the entire fragrance disappearing ( that in itself also sounds unlikely; this is strong stuff ). Iris is always the dominant note on me, from beginning to end. It's not always floral, but if you have a bag of orris powder, you can check for yourself: the iris is always there.
    During the dry down the sparkle fades but the intensity doesn't, and an darker, rootier form of iris jumps to the fore. The vetiver and wood notes are prominent at this stage, and to my nose there is a remarkable kinship with L'Air Du Desert Marocain. When comparing Cuir D'Iris with Cuir Ottoman, Cuir D'Iris is the masculine and Cuir Ottoman quite clearly the feminine fragrance. When comparing the Cuir D'Iris with L'Air, the situation is reversed. L'Air is open, warm and masculine, Cuir D'Iris is its cool, reserved sister. Someone compared Cuir D'Iris to a 1920s actress in mens clothing; the analogy is apt. This is a very unisex, sophisticated and urban in way that doesn't negate its rugged qualities. It's one of those fragrances that I feel would go with just about anyone who liked it.
    The base notes linger for quite a while, and what smells to my nose like just the faintest, tiniest touch of vanilla makes its appearance to mellow the iris-vetiver-leather combination.

    These are both extremely long lasting fragrances ( Cuir D'Iris lasts over 24 hours on me ), and have excellent sillage. I like both, but they're so different it's hard to choose between the two. I'd probably wear Cuir D'Iris more, because it's more "me" and it's less sweet.

    Has anyone else tried either of these or dug up another Iris/Leather fragrance?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    as a lover of the smell of real leather, ive waited long and hard to find an authentic leather scent. now my collection of "leather" fragrances include: Knize Ten, Knize Ten Golden Edition, Bandit, Cuir d'Lancome, Cuir d'Russie, Tabac Blond and Tuscan Leather being the closest authentic leather smell. I have a diffuclulty distinguishing "leather", but I just recently sampled Cuir Ottoman and Cuir d'Iris and holy cow, "LEATHER!!!"
    This is what I've been waiting for...and I've finally found them. Cuir Ottoman is a very realistic interpretation of suede...like the inside of a Tod's suede loafer
    while Cuir d'Iris smells literally like the inside of a leather handbag...if you know what leather smells like...this is literally IT!
    i personally prefer the harsher more realistic Cuir d'Iris and given that it's a private collection and probably not going to stay for that long, I ordered two!
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  3. #3

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    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    Excellent reviews of my two favorite leather (and one of my overall favorite) fragrances. I've only sampled Cuir Ottoman, but it's on my short 'to buy' list. The iris in Cuir d'Iris presents itself on me as a powdery balance that cuts the edge of the leather note's intensity, and is largely in balance with the leather. It is not a distincy note, per se, but without the iris the fragrance would be too overwhelming. What you didn't mention about Cuir d'Iris is the subtle-but-noticeable cocoa and fruit (raisin) notes. I've found that these are more noticeable when you really lay it on, but even when you don't they're still there. These notes round out the composition, providing a sweet counter to the leather while the iris rounds everything out. The whole fragrance is just fantastic, and it's a must-try for leather fans.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    So, Galamb, I'm assuming that Dior Homme doesn't satisfy your iris/leather cravings? When I think of those two notes, DH is the first scent that pops into my mind.

    CO, I don't like at all. CI sounds intriguing, I might try it now, based on your review.

  5. #5

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    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    So, Galamb, I'm assuming that Dior Homme doesn't satisfy your iris/leather cravings? When I think of those two notes, DH is the first scent that pops into my mind.

    CO, I don't like at all. CI sounds intriguing, I might try it now, based on your review.
    Dior Homme isn't really a very 'leather' associated frag...IMO. Any leather it does have is more from imagination rather than really being there.....the Iris, however, is there...

    Galamb:

    good reviews, man. i am a BIG fan of Cuir Ottoman. It has been on my 'to buy' list for ages now....everytime i go to buy it, i end up buying something else! I think it's a very posh, elegant, and pungent leather scent myself. I don't see it as much of a floral, however i've read others describe it as such. I find a petroleum-tinged leather with touches of powder in it....fantastic stuff. i still need this pretty badly...

    as for Cuir D'Iris, bbBD (the biggest fan of this stuff, that i know!) recently sent me a sample of it. I definitely find the Iris to be predominant in this fragrance....but weirdly enough, i don't detect much leather in it...it is THERE, but it gets taken over by the iris. I don't think this suited my skin very well, because it was gone within an hour...not sure what happened exactly. The day after this happened, i followed bbBD's advice to put a 'full serving' on...which i did...and it was gone within an hour again.....maybe my skin just eats this stuff up....it's become fat off using Knize Ten so much. I still have a little bit left in the decant, so i'll try it again...maybe more on clothes this time.....

  6. #6

    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    Neat to see my review pop up nearly a year after I wrote it!

    Last year it seemed to me that I was the only one who was a big fan of CdI - it's good to see that's changed.

    I haven't bought a bottle of either of the two in the mean time, though I've gone through a few decants.

    Actually, I appreciate the leather-realism in CO more than I did when I wrote these reviews, and it's shifted to being my favorite of two by a fraction. I ordered another decant this fall after I walked into a shoe store and thought "Hey, this smells like Cuir Ottoman!"

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    So, Galamb, I'm assuming that Dior Homme doesn't satisfy your iris/leather cravings? When I think of those two notes, DH is the first scent that pops into my mind.

    CO, I don't like at all. CI sounds intriguing, I might try it now, based on your review.
    I have never tried Dior Homme. I'm thinking I should now - I certainly like Dior's Bois d'Argent.

    I'd certainly recommend giving CdI a try - it's still very unique; there's nothing really similar on the market. The closest thing is probably PG's own Iris Taizo. They both share that curious "champagne iris" note.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    Cuir Ottoman starts off rather boozy, for the first five minutes I could smell is a note that reminds me of Jack Daniel's Old No7. The floral heart notes start to creep in on top of the boozy note with the leather not far behind; at this point in its development Cuir Ottoman seems to lose coherence, becoming a raucous cacophony of rather synthetic smelling notes. The iris comes in adding an earthiness and a little dirt but it still seems muddled by the time the basenotes are fully apparent.

    After all of the good words I have read about this fragrance, I wish I could find a redeeming factor... but it eludes me. This is an unbalanced, muddled, synthetic smelling mess of a fragrance; all in all quite a horrid scent.
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  8. #8

    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    Cuir d'Iris smells like real soft leather wallet or handbag that you find in high-end designer outlet. The leather smell is very realistic because the iris is very subtle. It's like 80% leather + 20% iris.

    Cuir Ottoman on the other hand is very oriental. Smells boozy, amberish and very warm and creamy..with the creamy being the oriental notes instead of the leather. The composition is like 50% leather + 50% oriental notes.

    CO lasts longer than CdI.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    Sugandaraja; Which one do you prefer of Cuir d`Iris and Cedrè Sandaraque? Just curious.. Does Cuir d`Iris have something in common with Hermès Bel Ami? -Question about Private Collection; Are these fragrances limited editions, or will they be in permanent production?
    Last edited by Oslo-Fjord; 5th November 2010 at 08:08 PM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    There are not much threads about Cuir dIris so i will ask it here.

    Are you talking about Cuir dIris Extrait? Cause i only found that version at Luckyscent, for a reasonable price for a extrait de parfum (50ml 100usd).

    Im very interested but its better to ask first do get the right version.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    My own fragrance-newbness coming back to haunt me! Zombie thread! ( For the record, the opinions of the original post are not endorsed by the current Sugandaraja. )

    As far as I know, Cuir d'Iris has only ever had one formulation, yet my perhaps faulty memory remembers it as an EdP. It's been a while since I smelled it, though.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    Cuir d'Iris is too heavy on the patchouli for me to enjoy it. I get that "wet cardboard" feel from it where Cuir Ottoman is the smooth buttery leather that I enjoy and is the clear winner between the two IMO.

  13. #13

    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    Quote Originally Posted by Sugandaraja View Post
    My own fragrance-newbness coming back to haunt me! Zombie thread! ( For the record, the opinions of the original post are not endorsed by the current Sugandaraja. )

    As far as I know, Cuir d'Iris has only ever had one formulation, yet my perhaps faulty memory remembers it as an EdP. It's been a while since I smelled it, though.
    Its categorized as extrait at LS
    http://www.luckyscent.com/shop/secti...Fd%27Iris.html

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    Quote Originally Posted by tehtimmeh View Post
    Cuir Ottoman is the smooth buttery leather that I enjoy and is the clear winner between the two IMO.
    Agree.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Leather And Iris: Cuir D'Iris vs. Cuir Ottoman

    Quote Originally Posted by d4N13L View Post
    There are not much threads about Cuir dIris so i will ask it here.

    Are you talking about Cuir dIris Extrait? Cause i only found that version at Luckyscent, for a reasonable price for a extrait de parfum (50ml 100usd).

    Im very interested but its better to ask first do get the right version.
    Anyone know if this extrait is the same as the EDP that everyone knows, or its a different version, or even it was mislabeled by LS.
    Last edited by d4N13L; 26th November 2012 at 02:53 PM.

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