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  1. #1

    Exclamation Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Whether you like their men's fragrances or not...

    ...where do you rank each house on the list ? ...
    ...in terms of strictly quality of ingredients, regardless of all else...

    Is Creed really the best ?
    L'Artisan ?
    Niche ?
    CDG ?
    Azzaro(lol) ?

    Thanks to all who participate.
    Happy Holidays!
    Last edited by DULLAH; 20th December 2007 at 06:25 AM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    In alphabetical order (they all use very fine ingredients, to my nose):

    Caron
    Chanel
    Diptyque
    Frederic Malle
    Guerlain
    Hermes
    Patou


    But there are so many houses that use great ingredients. I've just listed some standouts.
    I didn't list Gucci, though I could have. Gucci pour Homme and Gucci Envy are excellent
    and the women's Gucci EdP is as well. Also, I must throw in Parfums de Nicolai as
    an Honorable Mention. A number of very fine fragrances from this house.

    I listed Diptyque because it has a number of scents that seem to be based on
    a small number of notes, but very good ones at that: Eau Lente and it's opoponax and cinnamon
    accord; Philosykos and it's green fig note (synthetic, to be sure, but superb); Tam Dao, an awesome
    Sandalwood scent.
    Last edited by trumpet_guy; 20th December 2007 at 08:37 AM.

  3. #3
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Most perfume houses (that includes most of the top niche houses) don't even have access to many of the absolute best ingredients. It becomes very political at a certain point. For example, the best iris (iris is used in the middle notes of a majority of great fragrances), is almost impossible to come by.

    All of these definitely still do have access to most anything they want:

    Guerlain
    Chanel
    Serge Lutens
    Frederic Malle
    Caron
    Patou - to maintain Joy, 1000, and Sublime
    Last edited by pluran; 21st December 2007 at 07:01 AM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    No ranking, just a fact.
    Some houses still have their own quality control of ingredients and even long-time contracts with growers.
    Like Chanel, Caron, Patou, former Guerlain (in times of Jean Paul and before him).
    Others - like Hermes, Creed or Frederik Malle - just use what their perfumer think is better, no matter the price.
    All others take whatever fits the bill - 150 bucks per litre of concentrate.
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  5. #5

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    i think Guerlain keeps on using the best ingredients and has not shifted to cheaper and synthetic ingredients (don't forget Jicky was the first fragrance with synthetic elements); synthetic notes don't exceed 20%; also they had their own plantations of ylang-ylang and vanilla and sure they still have them

  6. #6

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    diptyque, adp, cdg stick in my mind
    current favourites: guerlain vetiver, trumper eucris, adp colonia
    latest swag: cdg man2, lolita lempicka au masculin
    next buys: keiko mecheri oliban, michael by michael kors

  7. #7

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Quote Originally Posted by germanomio View Post
    i think Guerlain keeps on using the best ingredients and has not shifted to cheaper and synthetic ingredients (don't forget Jicky was the first fragrance with synthetic elements); synthetic notes don't exceed 20%; also they had their own plantations of ylang-ylang and vanilla and sure they still have them
    I have no info about who is the owner of those famous ylang and vanilla plantations after JP Guerlain sold The House to LVMH. Do you?
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  8. #8

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Quote Originally Posted by moon_fish View Post
    I have no info about who is the owner of those famous ylang and vanilla plantations after JP Guerlain sold The House to LVMH. Do you?
    i read in an article published in 2007 that some of their "matières premières" came from their own plantations (in french)

    "LE CONTEXTE
    Monsieur GABRIEL, responsable de la structure EYMG, engagé dans le projet de réhabilitation
    de la plantation GUERLAIN.
    « La production de fleur d’ylang-ylang s’étend sur environ 400 ha sur la Grande Terre. Notre volonté
    est de redonner à cette culture, introduite à Mayotte fin du XIXème siècle, toute sa place tant sur le
    plan patrimonial qu’environnemental.
    Sous couvert de la renommée des établissements GUERLAIN,les producteurs espèrent retrouver un marché
    pour les huiles essentielles d’ylang-ylang de qualité première à destination de la parfumerie. »
    Le projet consiste à réhabiliter la propriété de GUERLAIN, créée il y a une quinzaine d’années par
    Monsieur GUERLAIN qui souhaitait en faire une vitrine de la production d’essence d’ylang-ylang
    à Mayotte. A la fin de l’année 2006, Monsieur GUERLAIN a cédé une partie de la SARL à un investisseur
    dans l’objectif de redynamiser la production.
    La propriété dispose aujourd’hui de 4 200 arbres d’ylang et 2 200 pieds de vanille.
    Aujourd’hui, 5 personnes travaillent à la remise en état de la plantation et de son environnement
    et 2 salariés sont chargés de la gestion, du suivi de la production.
    LE PROJET
    La réhabilitation des plantations est la première priorité avec l’entretien de la propriété à des fins agrotouristiques.
    La nouvelle structure souhaite également réaliser une production d’huile essentielle haut
    de gamme afin d’améliorer ses revenus.
    Une autre piste de diversification consiste à élargir son activité en distillation (cannelle, combava,
    poivre noir, citronnelle…), et en transformation (vanille, poivre vert, blanc, noir et rouge…).
    Les circuits de distribution sont principalement : la vente locale (sur la propriété, ainsi qu’en supermarchés)
    et l’exportation par l’intermédiaire de la maison GUERLAIN. Un projet de partenariat avec
    le comité de tourisme est envisagé afin d’étendre les ventes sur des produits ciblés comme la cosmétique
    destinée au tourisme."

    Guerlain is still a yeoman!

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    In no particular order:

    Frederic Malle
    Guerlain
    Hermes
    Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
    Serge Lutens
    Mona di Orio
    Diptyque

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Nobody seems to think of Cartier in this connection, but I find their scents are uniformly very good. For some reason, they just don't have the reputation of some of the other houses.
    Last edited by JaimeB; 20th December 2007 at 06:25 PM.
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

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  11. #11

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Chanel
    Creed
    Czech and Speake
    de Nicolai
    Guerlain (maybe not for long)
    Lutens
    Malle
    Mazzolari
    Penhaligon's (in a few cases, such as Hammam Bouqet)
    Tauer (he may not have the Guerlain network or Malle's capital, but I think he goes for the best he can get, which is more than can be said for most houses these days)
    Villoresi

    I don't fell qualified to rank them, but these are the ones that consistently reek of quality ingredients to me.
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matière/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénètrent le verre.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    When French flower production started shifting to Turkey and Egypt, Chanel actually bought their supplier farms in Grasse so they could keep the same origin of ingredients in #5 forever. That shows their dedication to quality.

    I'll also list:

    Hermes
    Serge Lutens
    Creed

    But really how can anyone outside the industry know? It is all a closely guarded secret. Everyone claims to use the highest possible ingredients.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    ...
    Malle
    Mazzolari
    Good point! I forgot Mazzolari.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Guerlain
    Serge Lutens
    L'artisan
    Maitre P. Gantier
    Lorenzo Villoresi

  15. #15

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Galimard
    #TOP 5#: Polo Crest, Romeo Gigli,Jockey Club C&M, Jean Pascal Homme,Floris N 89

  16. #16

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Guerlain
    Chanel
    Frederic Malle
    Hermes
    Yves Saint Laurent
    Comme des Garcons
    Shiseido and Serge Lutens

  17. #17

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    These two stand apart for me:
    Villoresi
    Creed

    Geo F Trumpers (in some scents more than others, some of their musks smell a bit "obvious" but other scents have amazing ingredients)
    Chanel
    Guerlain
    Last edited by hirch_duckfinder; 20th December 2007 at 10:44 PM.
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  18. #18

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Before this thread turns into a full blown but covert fanboy favorites listings (Lutens but no L'artisan or Creed, Creed but no Lutens, L'Artisan but no Creed or Lutens, Guerlain and Guerlain only, etc.) let me throw a few other names:

    Clive Christian (a 1.7 bottle costs a trillion dollars! Surely the ingredients have to be the best in the universe!)

    JAR (You need a background check just to be in the same room as the bottle holding the precious nectar of the gods!)

    Amouage (The ingredients have to be the absolute best else the perfumer would have lost his head...literally!)
    -

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    I agree with most of the recommendations above.

    I will add one of my favorite new houses: Profumum

  20. #20

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Before this thread turns into a full blown but covert fanboy favorites listings (Lutens but no L'artisan or Creed, Creed but no Lutens, L'Artisan but no Creed or Lutens, Guerlain and Guerlain only, etc.) let me throw a few other names:

    Clive Christian (a 1.7 bottle costs a trillion dollars! Surely the ingredients have to be the best in the universe!)

    JAR (You need a background check just to be in the same room as the bottle holding the precious nectar of the gods!)

    Amouage (The ingredients have to be the absolute best else the perfumer would have lost his head...literally!)
    Oh yeah good point ZZ. Amouage .
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  21. #21

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier
    Parfums DelRae
    Profumum
    Le Labo
    The Different Company
    Editions de Parfums Malle
    Serge Lutens

    Best Value:Les Nereides, Keiko Mecheri

    Up and Coming Contender: Parfum d'Empire

  22. #22

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    I'm only going to add those that haven't already been mentioned:

    Montale (especially the aoud line)
    Sisley

  23. #23

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    Some interesting info...

  24. #24

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    I admire that CB I Hate Perfume doesn't use alcohol, but I don't really care about whether ingredients are natural or synthetic if I enjoy the end product. Strange Invisible Perfumes and i Profumi di Firenze seem to be quality stuff.
    Last edited by bernat; 21st December 2007 at 04:32 AM. Reason: clarification
    "Cleanliness and order are not matters of instinct; they are matters of education, and like most great things, you must cultivate a taste for them." Benjamin Disraeli

  25. #25

    Default Re: Rank top 5-10 houses by Ingredient quality...

    I think the Italian houses really stand out in this regard:
    Lorenzo Villoresi
    Mazzolari
    SMN

    Other favorites:
    Annick Goutal
    MPG
    Chanel
    Serge Lutens
    Ormonde Jayne
    Miller Harris
    ..."net", not "naut".

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