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  1. #1
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    Default The Saffron Thread

    I've noticed saffron pops up with reasonable regularity as a note, but there hasn't been a thread discussing it in particular. I've always enjoyed the scent of saffron, so I'd be intrigued to see what perfumers have done with it.
    Any thoughts on saffron as a note? Any suggestions for good saffron solifleurs ( if there are any ), or good fragrances with a dominant note of saffron?

  2. #2

    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    I've noticed saffron pops up with reasonable regularity as a note, but there hasn't been a thread discussing it in particular. I've always enjoyed the scent of saffron, so I'd be intrigued to see what perfumers have done with it.
    Any thoughts on saffron as a note? Any suggestions for good saffron solifleurs ( if there are any ), or good fragrances with a dominant note of saffron?
    I think saffron smells wonderful, and works well in musky fragrances. If I was fooling around I'd try mixing saffron with brown spices and musky/rooty/leathery base. However real saffron is quite expensive, so one can only imagine what saffron absolutes/concretes would cost.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Diptyque Opôné. The best use of saffron I have worn. Blends amazingly well with the roses and other notes in the scent.
    Last edited by Sloan; 28th December 2007 at 11:56 PM.

  4. #4

    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    L'Homme Sage by Divine, Safran Troublant by L'Artisan Parfumeur

    Peggy: "Right now, we have to get to the mental institution. Something terrible has happened."
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    Peggy: "Brother Boy has tried to kill himself. He jumped out of his bedroom window."
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  5. #5

    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    I am not an expert by any means, especially when it comes to something like saffron, so take my words with a grain of salt.

    Not too long ago, I received a sample of Safron Troublant by L'Artisan Parfumeur. So far, I really like it but I have only briefly tried it. I will have to dedicate a full day to it in order to evaluate it properly.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  6. #6
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    I enjoy saffron in a scent, but the note sometimes flirts dangerously with rice pilaf. Three scents I like with significant saffron notes are Dawn Spencer Hurwitz's Cimabue (a sweet, spicy, and complex oriental) and the aforementioned L'Homme Sage incense, iris, and a rich, but not overly sweet, oriental base) and Opone (a simple, but brilliant blend of saffron and rose). Sadly, Safran Troublant smells like an Indian lunch buffet on me.

  7. #7

    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    At the top of Jack Black Signature Black Mark there is a very nice saffron note, but it only last a moment or two.

    Palisander also uses Saffron...hmmm...also L'Homme Sage...Yann Vasnier must like this note. He did all three.
    Last edited by Jock_With_Scents; 28th December 2007 at 02:35 PM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Black Cashmere (Donna Karan) is quite big on the saffron, while not letting it take over. Idole (Lubin) has similar notes, including the saffron, and works as well, though it's more transparent.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  9. #9
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Earlier in the year, supermarky mentioned that 'saffron is the new vanilla' - seriously, we all started to see it pop up everywhere it seemed for a while.

    It really has to be handled right for me to like it - in Safran Troublant and L' Homme Sage it's slightly too foody for my nose. I am still trying to like them, I haven't given up on them - but when the saffron is at its strongest in these two it smells like room temperature cooked food. Ick.

    Saffron is handled beautifully in Palisander by Comme des Garcons and Paprika Brasil by Hermes. In these, it adds a wonderful depth to the woods (Palisander) and salt/brine (Paprika Brasil) notes, without edging over into foody territory.

    I remember shadesofbleu recommending Ange ou Demon by Givenchy, but I cannot attest to smelling it or whether it 'works' on a guy. I also haven't tried Opone or Jack Black's Signature Black Mark.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Safron Troublant and Black Cashmere, as already mentioned.

    I adore the saffron in Ange ou Demon, there is some orchid and ylang ylang that might make it too girly for most of you guys. on my skin, the floral notes are short-lasting.

    Gourmandises by Keiko Mecheri is a saffron+rose+jam scent, sweet in a more foody way.
    Last edited by shadesofbleu; 28th December 2007 at 10:10 PM.
    I've trademarked the color bleu

  11. #11

    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Prada Ambre ph
    Creed- Windsor (All-time favorite)
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    Creed Spice & Wood

  12. #12
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    Smile Re: The Saffron Thread

    I prefer the saron note in Jack Black Black Mark more so than troublant and homme sage.
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  13. #13

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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Sonia Rykiel Man has a well integrated safran note in its middle development.

  14. #14

    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Greetings,

    I have been on vacation and have had little to no access to the Internet. That’s why I haven't been posting or answering my emails over the last 3 to 4 weeks.

    It’s interesting that this thread should come up because one of the things I have been working on while on vacation is an entry for saffron for a forthcoming book on perfumery I plan to write.


    I only have a minute or two of computer time, so I thought I’d post a modified form of my entry on saffron.

    I’ll be returning to regular posting soon and will, of course, be answering all my messages in due course. My apologies if it seemed I had snubbed any one; that’s definitely not the case.

    Now on to saffron:

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    I've noticed saffron pops up with reasonable regularity as a note, but there hasn't been a thread discussing it in particular. I've always enjoyed the scent of saffron, so I'd be intrigued to see what perfumers have done with it.
    Any thoughts on saffron as a note? Any suggestions for good saffron solifleurs ( if there are any ), or good fragrances with a dominant note of saffron?
    Quote Originally Posted by Nitromusk View Post
    I think saffron smells wonderful, and works well in musky fragrances. If I was fooling around I'd try mixing saffron with brown spices and musky/rooty/leathery base. However real saffron is quite expensive, so one can only imagine what saffron absolutes/concretes would cost.
    A couple of points of clarification. First, there is no such word as “solifleur”. The word is “soliflore”. It derives from the French word for numerous and varied types of bulbous vases with long drawn out, usually slim, necks designed for the display of a single flower, hence, the use of the name “soliflore” for any fragrance that features a particular flower.

    Saffron is not a flower. Saffron is the dried, thread like, orange-yellow stigmas of the purple flowers of the plant Crocus sativus. It is considered a spice.

    Saffron essential oil, because of the prohibitive cost of production has been virtually absent from perfumery as a major note until the late 1990s when it was discovered that a minor component of saffron essential oil, 2-Hydroxy-4,4,6-trimethyl-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-one, was predominantly responsible for the odor of the oil along with Safranal (2,2,6-trimethyl-1,3-cyclohexadien-1-carboxaldehyde), which constitutes about 70% of the volatile constituents of saffron essential oil. Not unusually, it is the minor component, and to a lesser extent Safranal, that give the essential oil its distinctiveness. Until these two components were isolated and confirmed in the 1990s as the major constituents of the odor profile of saffron essential oil, the oil was very rarely used in perfumery except in tiny amounts in tincture form to add depth and complexity to floral bases used in women’s perfumes. It is easy and cheap to chemically produce Safranal and this has opened the way for its use as a major note in contemporary perfumery. Two outstanding examples of its being featured as a major note are to be found in Diptyque’s Opôné and Czech & Speake’s sadly discontinued Dark Rose. I don’t think it’s an accident that saffron works exceedingly well with florals and especially with rose notes.

    scentemental
    Last edited by scentemental; 29th December 2007 at 05:07 AM.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by scentemental View Post
    Greetings,

    I have been on vacation and have had little to no access to the Internet. Thatís why I haven't been posting or answering my emails over the last 3 to 4 weeks.

    Itís interesting that this thread should come up because one of the things I have been working on while on vacation is an entry for saffron for a forthcoming book on perfumery I plan to write.


    I only have a minute or two of computer time, so I thought Iíd post a modified form of my entry on saffron.

    Iíll be returning to regular posting soon and will, of course, be answering all my messages in due course. My apologies if it seemed I had snubbed any one; thatís definitely not the case.

    Now on to saffron:


    It's so, so nice to have you 'back' scentemental. ENJOY your vacation! :wave:

    Now, I'm trying to remember...what new release mentions Safranal as a key component...what is it??

  16. #16
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Thanks for the information Scentemental ( though I have to wonder, isn't the stigma considered part of the flower? )
    I'm glad this thread has taken off; more stuff for me to sample!
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Now, I'm trying to remember...what new release mentions Safranal as a key component...what is it??
    Comme des Garcons 888? Just a guess.
    Last edited by Sugandaraja; 29th December 2007 at 02:08 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  17. #17

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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Another guess: l'Eau d'Issey PH Intense?

  18. #18

    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Saffron is one of my favorite notes. Right now I only have Safranal to work with, and I find it to be a hell of a material. It has so many characteristics. Simultaneously, it smells like leather, black cherry, shoe polish, tobacco, a tray of freezerburned ice cubes, and an air conditioner-- very abstract qualities lie within.

    My youngest brother spends a lot of time working on cars-- he's incredibly gifted with things of a mechanical nature. We were talking about smells and he said he wanted me to make him a fragrance that smelled like this leather polish stuff that he used to clean his truck's interior. He showed me the bottle and I smelled it-- it smelled very similar to safranal. So I'm working on a fragrance that features this prominently-- there's also a little tangerine in the top notes, and labdanum and vetiver in the base.

    Of commercial fragrances, I really like the use of saffron in Prada Amber Homme and especially in Comme des Garçons Palisander.

  19. #19

    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    I'm a fan of Saffron as well and have noticeds it become more popular in fragrances over the years. The first scent I can remember getting that had Saffron in it was Armani Mania, but I'm thinking Dzing has it as well so that may have been the first. Aside from others previously mentioned, Escada Magnatism and Versace Man both have notes of Saffron in them as well.
    Currently wearing: Journey Man by Amouage

  20. #20
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    Comme des Garcons 888? Just a guess.
    Bingo! That's it.

  21. #21

    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    In Iran we use saffron as a flavor in cooking specially for rice. It makes foods smell and taste far better. Also its very expensive here.
    I like it as an aromatic note, but I think lots of designers use it inappropriately. For example I think Prada use it in wrong situation. I think they should had use another aromatic spice instead of Saffron.
    I agree with the point which say it is the new vanilla. I think they over use it in perfumes.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    I love Divine's L'Homme Sage but was never aware that it contained saffron. I must learn my notes and accords.
    Last edited by fredricktoo; 1st January 2008 at 05:56 AM.

  23. #23

    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Could Tom of Finland be considered here?

  24. #24
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Washington Tremlett Black Tie has a nice rose-saffron accord

  25. #25

    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Idole de Lubin
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  26. #26
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Caliber 12

  27. #27
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Fun to see this old thread pop up, let's see if more saffron scents popped up over the years.

    I can add Rose Kashmirie from Let Parfums de Rosine and from Arabian Oud 1000 Flowers
    But once you get locked into a serious perfume collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    Washington Tremlett Black Tie is very rose- and saffron-prominent.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    ELdO Tom Of Finland
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    Montale Red Aoud


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  30. #30
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    Default Re: The Saffron Thread

    M Micallef's Aoud Homme is mainly oud, saffron and rose. A deeper rendition of the C&S Dark Rose mentioned above.
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