Thread: The Saffron Thread
I've noticed saffron pops up with reasonable regularity as a note, but there hasn't been a thread discussing it in particular. I've always enjoyed the scent of saffron, so I'd be intrigued to see what perfumers have done with it.
Any thoughts on saffron as a note? Any suggestions for good saffron solifleurs ( if there are any ), or good fragrances with a dominant note of saffron?
Diptyque Opôné. The best use of saffron I have worn. Blends amazingly well with the roses and other notes in the scent.
Last edited by Sloan; 29th December 2007 at 12:56 AM.
L'Homme Sage by Divine, Safran Troublant by L'Artisan Parfumeur
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I am not an expert by any means, especially when it comes to something like saffron, so take my words with a grain of salt.
Not too long ago, I received a sample of Safron Troublant by L'Artisan Parfumeur. So far, I really like it but I have only briefly tried it. I will have to dedicate a full day to it in order to evaluate it properly.
Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost
I enjoy saffron in a scent, but the note sometimes flirts dangerously with rice pilaf. Three scents I like with significant saffron notes are Dawn Spencer Hurwitz's Cimabue (a sweet, spicy, and complex oriental) and the aforementioned L'Homme Sage incense, iris, and a rich, but not overly sweet, oriental base) and Opone (a simple, but brilliant blend of saffron and rose). Sadly, Safran Troublant smells like an Indian lunch buffet on me.
At the top of Jack Black Signature Black Mark there is a very nice saffron note, but it only last a moment or two.
Palisander also uses Saffron...hmmm...also L'Homme Sage...Yann Vasnier must like this note. He did all three.
Last edited by Jock_With_Scents; 28th December 2007 at 03:35 PM.
Black Cashmere (Donna Karan) is quite big on the saffron, while not letting it take over. Idole (Lubin) has similar notes, including the saffron, and works as well, though it's more transparent.
Earlier in the year, supermarky mentioned that 'saffron is the new vanilla' - seriously, we all started to see it pop up everywhere it seemed for a while.
It really has to be handled right for me to like it - in Safran Troublant and L' Homme Sage it's slightly too foody for my nose. I am still trying to like them, I haven't given up on them - but when the saffron is at its strongest in these two it smells like room temperature cooked food. Ick.
Saffron is handled beautifully in Palisander by Comme des Garcons and Paprika Brasil by Hermes. In these, it adds a wonderful depth to the woods (Palisander) and salt/brine (Paprika Brasil) notes, without edging over into foody territory.
I remember shadesofbleu recommending Ange ou Demon by Givenchy, but I cannot attest to smelling it or whether it 'works' on a guy. I also haven't tried Opone or Jack Black's Signature Black Mark.
Safron Troublant and Black Cashmere, as already mentioned.
I adore the saffron in Ange ou Demon, there is some orchid and ylang ylang that might make it too girly for most of you guys. on my skin, the floral notes are short-lasting.
Gourmandises by Keiko Mecheri is a saffron+rose+jam scent, sweet in a more foody way.
Last edited by shadesofbleu; 28th December 2007 at 11:10 PM.
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Prada Ambre ph
Serge Lutens- Chergui
Lolita Lempica Au Masculin
Serge Lutens- Arabie
Frederic Malle- Musc Ravageur
Acqua di Parma- Mandorlo
I prefer the saron note in Jack Black Black Mark more so than troublant and homme sage.
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Sonia Rykiel Man has a well integrated safran note in its middle development.
I have been on vacation and have had little to no access to the Internet. That’s why I haven't been posting or answering my emails over the last 3 to 4 weeks.
It’s interesting that this thread should come up because one of the things I have been working on while on vacation is an entry for saffron for a forthcoming book on perfumery I plan to write.
I only have a minute or two of computer time, so I thought I’d post a modified form of my entry on saffron.
I’ll be returning to regular posting soon and will, of course, be answering all my messages in due course. My apologies if it seemed I had snubbed any one; that’s definitely not the case.
Now on to saffron:
Saffron is not a flower. Saffron is the dried, thread like, orange-yellow stigmas of the purple flowers of the plant Crocus sativus. It is considered a spice.
Saffron essential oil, because of the prohibitive cost of production has been virtually absent from perfumery as a major note until the late 1990s when it was discovered that a minor component of saffron essential oil, 2-Hydroxy-4,4,6-trimethyl-2,5-cyclohexadien-1-one, was predominantly responsible for the odor of the oil along with Safranal (2,2,6-trimethyl-1,3-cyclohexadien-1-carboxaldehyde), which constitutes about 70% of the volatile constituents of saffron essential oil. Not unusually, it is the minor component, and to a lesser extent Safranal, that give the essential oil its distinctiveness. Until these two components were isolated and confirmed in the 1990s as the major constituents of the odor profile of saffron essential oil, the oil was very rarely used in perfumery except in tiny amounts in tincture form to add depth and complexity to floral bases used in women’s perfumes. It is easy and cheap to chemically produce Safranal and this has opened the way for its use as a major note in contemporary perfumery. Two outstanding examples of its being featured as a major note are to be found in Diptyque’s Opôné and Czech & Speake’s sadly discontinued Dark Rose. I don’t think it’s an accident that saffron works exceedingly well with florals and especially with rose notes.
Last edited by scentemental; 29th December 2007 at 06:07 AM.
Last edited by Sugandaraja; 29th December 2007 at 03:08 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Another guess: l'Eau d'Issey PH Intense?
Saffron is one of my favorite notes. Right now I only have Safranal to work with, and I find it to be a hell of a material. It has so many characteristics. Simultaneously, it smells like leather, black cherry, shoe polish, tobacco, a tray of freezerburned ice cubes, and an air conditioner-- very abstract qualities lie within.
My youngest brother spends a lot of time working on cars-- he's incredibly gifted with things of a mechanical nature. We were talking about smells and he said he wanted me to make him a fragrance that smelled like this leather polish stuff that he used to clean his truck's interior. He showed me the bottle and I smelled it-- it smelled very similar to safranal. So I'm working on a fragrance that features this prominently-- there's also a little tangerine in the top notes, and labdanum and vetiver in the base.
Of commercial fragrances, I really like the use of saffron in Prada Amber Homme and especially in Comme des Garçons Palisander.
I'm a fan of Saffron as well and have noticeds it become more popular in fragrances over the years. The first scent I can remember getting that had Saffron in it was Armani Mania, but I'm thinking Dzing has it as well so that may have been the first. Aside from others previously mentioned, Escada Magnatism and Versace Man both have notes of Saffron in them as well.
In Iran we use saffron as a flavor in cooking specially for rice. It makes foods smell and taste far better. Also its very expensive here.
I like it as an aromatic note, but I think lots of designers use it inappropriately. For example I think Prada use it in wrong situation. I think they should had use another aromatic spice instead of Saffron.
I agree with the point which say it is the new vanilla. I think they over use it in perfumes.
I love Divine's L'Homme Sage but was never aware that it contained saffron. I must learn my notes and accords.
Last edited by fredricktoo; 1st January 2008 at 06:56 AM.
Washington Tremlett Black Tie has a nice rose-saffron accord
Idole de Lubin
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Fun to see this old thread pop up, let's see if more saffron scents popped up over the years.
I can add Rose Kashmirie from Let Parfums de Rosine and from Arabian Oud 1000 Flowers
But once you get locked into a serious perfume collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can.
Washington Tremlett Black Tie is very rose- and saffron-prominent.
ELdO Tom Of Finland
Montale Red Aoud
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M Micallef's Aoud Homme is mainly oud, saffron and rose. A deeper rendition of the C&S Dark Rose mentioned above.
ointments and perfume delight the heart....
Oud 27 had a generous dollop of the stuff
how has Tom Ford Noir de Noir not been mentioned yet?! at least to me I get a nice saffron, rose, oud combo. I think it's quite 'pretty' for a men's scent, but still well balanced with the oud.
Tom Ford Splits!!!! - Tobacco Vanille, Tuscan Leather, Oud Wood, Noir de Noir,
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HARD TO FIND - Lavender Palm, Arabian Wood, Champacca Absolute and AMBER ABSOLUTE, etc...
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+1 on Noir de Noir. I tried Safran Troublant, and liked it...but unfortunately it was so light it was virtually non-existent.
Love Saffron, and especially love to cook with it. Works great in Persian stews and rice, as well as in Paella's.
Wow, I haven't heard of most of these, but I want to sample them soon.
This one looks interesting
Saffron is one of my favourite scents, outside of perfumery. I use it in cooking and especially in cocktails (I make my own saffron gin and vodka).
For perfumery though, even though a tincture is very easy to make yourself, it isn't too easy to use because the colour is so strong and so staining. Who wants a perfume that will put a yellow stain on a white shirt or blouse? Safranal always seems a bit like cheating, but I guess that is the price of art.
Also I observe that many people cannot smell saffron at all, which is a bit of downside for the world's most expensive spice.
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Saffron might be my all-time favorite note...here's what I have so far: Lyric Woman, Agent Provocateur, Montale White Oud, Saffron Troublant, ummm...Daphne Commes Des Garcons, Black Cashmere, LDDM (?), an incredible Asrar Attar from Amouage (this is the best one, but really tough because not available to test in the USA)...
Last edited by Fleurine; 1st September 2011 at 01:55 AM.
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I don't think it's been mentioned yet, but TF Tuscan Leather has saffron in it, too.
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Mukhalat Malaki by swiss Arabian. It is all about Saffron and Turkish Rose.