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  1. #1

    Default Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP


    There have been many claims that Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP are similar, but very little analysis of the so called similarities and little to none of the differences. I’d like to set the record straight, and let me start by saying that the similarities are somewhat superficial, but more importantly, that the differences between Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always are significant and important. We should be clear about this, at least for the sake of clarity.


    On first spraying the two, one notices immediately that Givenchy Gentleman is fresher, cleaner, less cluttered and less heavy on the nose than Hot Always, which comes across as greasy (more about that below). Dare I say it, Givenchy Gentleman is more refined. With Givenchy Gentleman, the patchouli note is integrated and lightened by the significant presence of floral notes particularly those of rose and orris root. The purity of cedar also lightens and rounds out the harsh edges of the patchouli as does cinnamon, and there is an herbal note (tarragon, I believe) which adds a brightness that along with floral notes makes the heavier notes, and there are many of them (amber, civet, leather, oakmoss, and musk), float beneath the heart notes without ever pushing up into them and overwhelming them. At the heart of the fragrance, then, there are two accords: the creamy animalic woody leather accord, modulated and balanced by a gorgeous honey note and the prominent patchouli, which is freshened by the herbal coolness of tarragon, exalted by the buoyancy of rose and orris, integrated by the clean woodiness of cedar, and rounded out by the aromatic warm spiciness of the cinnamon. Givenchy Gentleman maintains this interplay between the two accords in a constant aromatic seamless interplay of notes, and there is a moment about and hour and a half into the drydown of the fragrance when the two accords disappear into each other to form an integrated and inimitable single accord. To me the evolution of Givenchy Gentleman from start to finish is one of the most joyous and fulfilling in all of perfumery. It’s a nonpareil.

    By contrast I find Hot Always to be heavy handed. Sure it manages to capture the animalic creaminess of Givenchy Gentleman well enough, but what it does not manage to do is to integrate that animalic creaminess with the patchouli accord as does Givenchy Gentleman. Consequently, what you have missing in Hot Always is the genius of Givenchy Gentleman, missing in both senses of the word, that is, in the sense of artistic achievement and in the sense of creative spirit. This can also be seen in the respective pyramids of the two fragrances. Hot Always has no substantial floral presence, and no cedar or tarragon, or equivalents to freshen and soften the prominence of the patchouli and round out its harsh edges. As a result, and this is typical of fragrances in which the perfumer does not take care to modify patchouli’s harshness, the patchouli takes an inordinate amount of time to calm down to that wonderful, soft patchouli buzz, the elevating comforting enveloping feeling patchouli gives in its base notes. A good example of this is Montale’s Patchouli Leaves, which I find essentially unwearable because the patchouli’s dry, grating, burnt herbal harshness is so imposing till about 4 to 5 hours into the drydown. A common fault of most Montale fragrances as I see it––clumsy, heavy handed loaded openings that take hours to resolve into something bearable, speaking of which, back to Hot Always. The animalic creaminess does go some way to abating the harshness of the patchouli, but the cost of such integration and modification is that, at least to my nose, the patchouli in Hot Always smells a lot like the smell that remains on one’s clothing after one has been in a fast food restaurant where are lot of frying is done. It’s greasy and a little on the nauseating side. It ruins the fragrance for me. I am sorry but Hot Always does not even come close to matching Givenchy's elegance and aesthetic achievement, and I feel I have hardly done the genius of Givenchy Gentleman and its perfumer Paul Lèger any justice in this brief review.

    Finally, the difference between Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always is difference between the vanished, vanquished world of true couturier fashion and its slow, organic artistic innovation and a world in which it is believed that the way to create is to simply throw huge amounts of money at product development and image all the time. It’s a sad reflection on the times, and the ease with which so many people embrace these so called paragons of progress is quite disheartening. It’s the fetish of the new. A little more careful sniffing and a lot more careful thinking is the only thing I can think of at the moment that might mitigate against such a fetish.


    scentemental

    P.S. For what it's worth, if any one wants my opinion on another patchouli paragon of progress, Comme des Garçons' Patchouli Luxe, he or she can have it in it six words: "You've got to be kidding? Right?" That's all I'll ever say about it, it's not really worth much more.



    Last edited by scentemental; 30th December 2007 at 02:59 PM.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    Good to see you, and the blue fonts, back here scentemental.

    Do you get more cinnamon than patchouli in HOT Always? And how about a few more words on the crazy expensive CdG Patchouli Luxe?
    -

  3. #3

    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    Good to see you, and the blue fonts, back here scentemental.

    Do you get more cinnamon than patchouli in HOT Always? And how about a few more words on the crazy expensive CdG Patchouli Luxe?
    Thanks zz.

    "No, I don't" is my answer to your first question, and "no" is my answer to your second. I meant what I said.

    Best regards,

    scentemental
    Last edited by scentemental; 30th December 2007 at 04:58 AM.

  4. #4
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    scentemental,

    Gentleman (vintage) is about as well made as any fragrance I've experienced and your description gives it a commanding twist and regenerates it into something even better than it was. It's these sort of posts that pull me so strongly into the site and provide inspiration that leads to all sorts of other things.

    Just an absolute killer job my friend, and thanks for the effort. Such focus, accurate and tangible analysis is an extremely rare thing. This post goes into my scentemental folder which must contain well over a hundred by now.

    pluran
    Last edited by pluran; 30th December 2007 at 06:11 AM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    Scentemental,

    pondering more on the patchouli note, what are your thoughts on L'Artisan Patchouli Patch? Is it a good example of a well presented patchouli note, stripped of its inherent harsh character by a healthy dose of musk, iris and other floral notes?
    -

  6. #6

    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    Thanks for an excellent post Scentemental. I learned a lot about these two fragrances.I agree wholeheartedly with your comments on modern hurried projects with more money than attention and craft.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  7. #7

    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    scentemental delivers yet another remarkable post, and one devoted to a worthy fragrance indeed.
    Gentleman is a classic in the truest sense of the word.

    This once again reminds me of the _very_ attractive woman at Nordstrom who was representing
    some fragrance line such as Cartier, if my memory is correct. She mentioned to me that
    the most amazing fragrance she had smelled was one they didn't even carry: Givenchy Gentleman.
    It seemed remarkable to me that she would say that, given there was not a bottle in the store.
    Last edited by trumpet_guy; 30th December 2007 at 09:22 AM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    Folks above have already expressed it better than I'll ever be able to. Good to see you writing at length again with so much depth of knowledge and erudition. I own and enjoy Givenchy Gentleman and have never been too interested in the overpriced super hyped Bond No. 9 line. I've tried one, New Haarlem and except for it being as loud as a NYC subway train taking a curve at high speed it wasn't very appealing.
    Last edited by fredricktoo; 30th December 2007 at 01:26 PM.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    As always, a thoughtful post, Scentemental. I have a bottle of Gentleman, but it's not of the vintage variety which I presume you're writing about here.

    Any ideas about where I can get a bottle of the vintage Gentleman? I've thought about springing for it for awhile and this post has me looking again. I just want to be careful about buying a bottle from a seller who has preserved it well. Any thoughts? Thank you for any suggestions and for the great post.
    Christian Dior VetiverPatou Pour HommeChristian Dior Leather OudOrmonde Jayne Ormonde ManSerge Lutens Chene

  10. #10

    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    I have the new bottle of Gentleman also. Is this new version even close to the original formulation?

  11. #11

    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    Scentemental,

    Thanks for another excellent in-depth post. As a long-time fan of GG, I've always been curious about the Bond, though not quite curious enough to try it. The REAL reason for my post is to thank you for succintly describing why many of the Montale scents (and all the ones I've tried) seem to lack the finesse necessary to make them wearable. Kudos.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP


    Very humble thanks my good friends (zztopp, pluran, hirch_duckfinder, trumpet_guy, fredricktoo, UngerWoo, and levente) for your kind and encouraging words.

    scentemental



  13. #13

    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    I have been wanting to get H.O.T always as a matter of fact. Saks in Atlanta Georgia did not have it in stock for their buy any two items and you get a 3.3oz fragrance free. Well, I wanted to get H.O.T always and since they did not have it, I decided to wait until their next sale. However, now you have me wondering about Givenchy Gentleman. I must say that I don't own too many Givenchy fragrances and that I am not too well versed on this house.
    Is there a lot of difference between Vintage and the current formulation? I would love to sample it. Any pointers on how to score a few mls for testing?
    Love someone today and it will come back to you ten folds

  14. #14

    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    Great thread, worth re-reading if you like patch, leather and civet.

  15. #15

    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    Thank you for your post scentemental. Vintage Gentleman was one of my first fragrance purchases. A most enjoyable read.

  16. #16
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: Givenchy Gentleman and Bond No. 9 New York Hot Always EDP

    Never saw this thread before. Great read.

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