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  1. #1

    Default Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Well not really the first time I've smelled this, cause I 've had a sample of this a kind BN member scent me in the past. But I don't remember it to be so strong.

    First of: it's the newest modern box design release. The bottle itself looks the same bee bottle as in the former golden boxes.
    As far as the fragrance concerns, I can't compare it to the older one , cause I can't find the sample anymore.

    I'm imediateley transported to the year 1900, when it was released, cause I 'm getting a civet note out of this, or at least something that should resemble it. (I believe the use of real civet is strongly forbidden today).
    It borders on the line of being offputting and at the same time it's what makes it interesting to me. I believe civet was the thing in 1900? (poor cats!)

    For some reason I was expecting a bright citrus smell, but it's nohing like that at all.
    Is it a citrus?, is it oriental? I guess it's a bit of both?

    When you know how to handle the sprayer (two spray's max. for me!) it's easier to wear for sure. The drydown is smooth and refined. An interesting smell from another century.

    Any other impressions of experienced Guerlain user will be most welcome!

    cheers,
    Eric
    Last edited by eric; 1st January 2008 at 10:52 AM.

  2. #2
    Prince Barry's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Sorry, no civet in sight for this fragrance.

    It's actually classed as a Fougere.

    Top Notes: Bergamot, Lavender, Verbena.
    Heart Notes: Neroli, Jasmine, Cinnamon, Rose.
    Base Notes: Patchouli, Tonka bean, Iris, Vanilla, Oak Moss, Amber notes.

    Barry

  3. #3

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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Happy new year Barry and Eric and everyone else. Those guerlain note listings are often a bit suspect. and certainly very sketchy. I definitely get a profound civet from mouchoir. Wonderful stuff - a subtle power fragrance!!!
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  4. #4

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    That's weird! I definately smell something in it I asociate with something musky, stinky, in a good way.
    Thought it was civet, but your right Prince Barry,it's not listed in it's note pyramid.

    A well, never to old to learn I suppose. I have to get my olfactory memory in order. Or it could be the alcohol residu in my brains from last nights party.

    Maybe it's one of the flower notes in it?. Jasmin, Iris?....sigh, now I'm even more intriqued.

    (please forgive some typo's I made, be free to correct me. It's a combination of a light blurry hangover and English not being my first language)
    Last edited by eric; 1st January 2008 at 12:39 PM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Probably the moss, no? I made the same mistake about Héritage edp by Guerlain -- I mistook oakmoss for civet.
    Let's hope the old bottles will still be available for a while, as oakmoss is now forbidden as an ingredient in the E.C.
    Last edited by tvlampboy; 1st January 2008 at 02:23 PM.

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  6. #6

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Quote Originally Posted by tvlampboy View Post

    Let's hope the old bottles will still be available for a while, as oakmoss is now forbidden as an ingredient in the E.C.
    Maybe tvlampboy, but still I'm not sure about this.
    I have got fairly new bottle wich came with the 2007 box design, but nonetheless oakmoss is listed on the ingredients list. Maybe they put it back in the new perfumes? weird.

    On the box it says: "evernia furfuracea (treemoss)". A quick google shows that evernia furfuracea means oakmoss oil, but the box says treemoss.
    Anyway, I think that oakmoss oil is more used as some kind of fixative for perfume than a note for the scent itself?
    Last edited by eric; 1st January 2008 at 02:42 PM.

  7. #7
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Quote Originally Posted by eric View Post
    ...I'm imediateley transported to the year 1900, when it was released, cause I 'm getting a civet note out of this, or at least something that should resemble it. (I believe the use of real civet is strongly forbidden today).
    It borders on the line of being offputting and at the same time it's what makes it interesting to me. I believe civet was the thing in 1900? (poor cats!)

    Is it a citrus?, is it oriental? I guess it's a bit of both?....
    It's a fougere very similar to Jicky. Both contain civet. Real civet is still used to some extent at least. The civet in these two smells less like the synthetic civet which used in many fragrances, but who knows for sure. Jicky has a slightly more prominent civet note than MdM.

  8. #8

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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Thank you Barry. I was starting to feel a bit invisible there.
    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    It's a fougere very similar to Jicky. Both contain civet. Real civet is still used to some extent at least. The civet in these two smells less like the synthetic civet which used in many fragrances, but who knows for sure. Jicky has a slightly more prominent civet note than MdM.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

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  9. #9
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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Quote Originally Posted by eric View Post
    Maybe tvlampboy, but still I'm not sure about this.
    I have got fairly new bottle wich came with the 2007 box design, but nonetheless oakmoss is listed on the ingredients list. Maybe they put it back in the new perfumes? weird.

    On the box it says: "evernia furfuracea (treemoss)". A quick google shows that evernia furfuracea means oakmoss oil, but the box says treemoss.
    Anyway, I think that oakmoss oil is more used as some kind of fixative for perfume than a note for the scent itself?

    Oakmoss and tree moss are both fixatives. Oakmoss is stronger and can be described as sea-like, creamy, damp and very sensual. It adds depth and complexity, and imparts an earthy, woody, slightly leathery note to perfumes. It's imperative for chypres and fougeres. Tree moss can be described as delicately sensual with a dusty, earthy aroma. It's also less expensive.

    A few years ago it was believed that oakmoss caused allergies, and many perfume houses were reluctant to use it. It has now been discovered that tree moss, rather than oakmoss, is resposible for the allergies. But reversing political legislation is difficult. Many people still use oakmoss but many don't. There's no such thing as synthetic oakmoss so the restrictions cause problems. Chanel managed to use a pepper-iris accord to achieve the classical oakmoss effect in 31 Rue Cambon.
    Last edited by pluran; 1st January 2008 at 03:21 PM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Quote Originally Posted by hirch_duckfinder View Post
    Thank you Barry. I was starting to feel a bit invisible there.
    Sorry, hirch, I wasn't dishing your anwer. Seems that I posted my reply to Barry's answer the same time you posted. Again excuse moi

    Thanks Pluran, Hirch, Barry , Tvlampboy for the info.And a Happy New Year to you all!!

    Pluran ,thanks for the explanation on the Treemoss,Oakmoss question.
    But back on topic, I wish I had discovered this one sooner. It certainly isn't the simple citrus fragrance I thought it would be.There's much more to it. Still it's a mystery if it contains civet o not. Maybe I should try Jicky, cause I think civet IS listed in that ?

    But the reviews of Jicky, with the civet notes being offputting are kind of scaring me.
    Last edited by eric; 1st January 2008 at 03:17 PM.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    There are 3 versions of Jicky: EdT, EdP, PE. I have the parfum extrait. I wish I bought the EdP instead, as the opening notes are more like MdM's. Bright, bright, bright. I think it's the particular bergamot that Guerlain uses that has that slightly "baby vomit" note, which makes the fragrance so unique. The EdT and the PE versions have toned down the opening notes and both have disappointing longevity on me. But, for 2 hours the PE is sublime.
    Civet is still a mystery to me as I'm never quite sure when I'm smelling it.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Happy new year to all

    I,too,get a good helping of civet,from MDM.

    For me,it;s comparable in civet volume to Jicky EDT:just right,not too powerful,satisfyingly there in the mix. Blended just right.

    I love Gentleman's Handkerchief

  13. #13

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    When I first got this one I was sure I could smell garlic in it. I still do.
    Last edited by Glenos; 1st January 2008 at 06:06 PM.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    I've never smelled MdM, however I remember someone recommending it to me on that 'Cinnamon' thread that I started months ago.

    Do any of you guys 'get' the cinnamon in MdM?

  15. #15

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I've never smelled MdM, however I remember someone recommending it to me on that 'Cinnamon' thread that I started months ago.

    Do any of you guys 'get' the cinnamon in MdM?
    No cinnamon for me,which is a shame as I love it as a note. It may well be in there,but not,to me anyway,as prominent as Cacharel PH (or Amor),for example. I'ts quite hard to fully describe MDM,I find. Similar to Jicky EDT,but different That's the best I can do

  16. #16

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Gosh, I totally forgot about MdM as one of my desperate scents to try, and I can't find it anywhere to test here.

    Civet...never made a mistake between it and oakmoss, but one seems to smell it in Jicky because the healthy dose of lavender in it seems to really bring it out big time.

    Haven't smelled Civet by itself, but I imagine it to smell sharp like horse poop.
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  17. #17

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Mouchoir de Monsieur is always referred to as an extremely manly perfume - the classic, fireplace-hunting-vest-cognac-pipe/cigar kind of man. Anyway, I've always found something feminine about it - and sure it's also often compared to (the more opoponax-earthy) Jicky.

    But today, wearing it, and realized that it shares also some characteristics of a recent purchase of mine: Guerlain's LIU. LIU is an aldehyde, very old-fashioned 1930's scent, but after the aldehydes calm down, it puts me in the same mood as Mouchoir de Monsieur does. Imagine a less herbal, slightly more floral Mouchoir de Monsieur - that's LIU. It's lovely!

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur (1904)

    This is another classic from a hundred years or so ago. The folk wisdom is that this was the follow-up EdT version of the 1889 Jicky.That may or may not be true... Now there is an EdT version of Jicky, and I can tell you, personally, I like Mouchoir de Monsieur much better.

    The official notes (from the Guerlain website) are:

    Head notes : Lavender, bergamot, verbena;
    Heart notes : Rose, jasmine, neroli;
    Base notes : Fern harmony, patchouli, vanilla, iris.

    Other folk wisdom says there's civet in this, but Guerlain doesn't seem to confirm that... or are they just trying not to alarm the timid among us? Or is it possibly subsumed under "fern harmony?" I definitely smell something like an animalic note in this, but perhaps it's just because I want to believe it's really there.

    In any case, my take on this one is that it's a beautiful snapshot of what masculine elegance seemed like at the turn of the last century; and having said that, I want it to be the epitome of masculine elegance today as well! The feeling I get when I wear this is superb, like walking on air. No matter what's going on in my day-to-day pedestrian existence, I can't believe there's anything to be concerned about if I smell this good.

    In contrast to Après l'Ondée (see my last blog entry if you like), this one projects a greater sillage and has a somewhat better longevity. It doesn't take as much of it to get and keep it going.

    The wonderful thing about M de M is that you can wear it in just about any temperate weather, although I do think it's nicer in the spring, on a cool-to-mild day. People who encounter it on me seem a little perplexed at first, but if they've noticed, they usually have something very good to say about it. It's quite different from anything else out there (except maybe Jicky), and so it usually gets remarked on a bit more than the run-of-the mill scents people are over-exposed to.

    I have worn this to work, although for me, it works better for leisure situations. It's just that it's hard to be other than carefree when I'm wearing this; it takes an effort to feel I'm seriously responsible for anything other than existing and communing with the beauty of life.

    If there's one word for this scent, as far as I can tell, it would have to be "optimistic."
    Yr good bud,

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  19. #19

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    damnit, that's it.
    I'm gonna wear this now and tonight at work (I have nightshift ) and no one is gonna stop me.
    And if they ask me what the heg I'm wearing, ....I'll teach them a lesson about perfume history.... oh yeah!,....Get out of my way , you Acqua di Gio abusers, ...tsssk
    Last edited by eric; 31st January 2008 at 08:12 PM.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    It's a fougere very similar to Jicky. Both contain civet. Jicky has a slightly more prominent civet note than MdM.
    ditto
    Last edited by DreamerII; 31st January 2008 at 11:27 PM.
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  21. #21

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    I still say that Zizanie smells like it without the horrible opening civet (or civet type) note.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    I think this is such a glorious scent, I wear it and it seems like a cross between Jicky and Shalimar. When I first started wearing this, when I worked for Guerlain, my rep told me it is a 'mens' fragrance. I told her I knew it was marketed that way. But, like the name implies, men would fragrance their handkerchiefs to offer to a fair demoiselle in need. Therefore it would have to be a scent slightly masculine, but still pleasing to a lady. I further informed him, "In France women have been wearing mens fragrance since the days of 'Eau savage', we love to try the forbidden" He still didn't get it; c'est la vie.
    Last edited by Brielle87; 1st February 2008 at 04:31 AM. Reason: typo
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  23. #23
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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    I smelled this yesterday for the 1st time (thanks Ruggles).

    Wow, wow, wow! I love it.

    The lavender was a little thinner than I expected it at the top notes, similar (of course) to Jicky but much less present in the air around me. Of course, after some time this changed and I could clearly smell the lavender (delicately) but then something wonderful happened: it got all spicy on my skin. Not like Habit Rouge (pastry) or Heritage (herbal amber)...more of a kitchen spice smell. Cinnamon, actually. Not heavy, but constantly swirling around me lightly. I'm such a cinnamon whore - this was all I needed to smell to realize I was in love. I think I might even say for now, I like MdM more than Jicky - although I don't own full bottles of either, so that's a sweeping generalization.

    Let me tell you, I have been on Guerlain kick recently - and smelling this came at the exact right time that it needed to. I can see a full bottle of this in my future, for sure.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 7th November 2008 at 04:42 PM.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Oh Mike how lovely to read about you liking MdM - I thought you had tried it already, u lil in-the-closet Guerlain whore

    To me, it's so old-fashioned - in the best Guerlain sense of the word! It's really crispiness turning tenderly sweet. Haven't thought of cinnamon before - will remember it next time! On me, it lingers more than Jicky does - meaning: I can smell it on my clothes for days. So sometimes I prefer Jicky, it's actually less sweet to me...

  25. #25

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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Since you brought it back up, I'll ask what I've been wanting to ask (but didn't want to start a thread)...

    Am I missing something with MdM? I find it to be nearly identical to Jicky... perhaps there are the slightest tweaks around the edges, but I don't feel like I can justify getting a bottle when I already have two Jicky bottles (EdT and PdT). Also, I got pretty poor longevity from MdM, about 2 hours. Don't get me wrong, Jicky/MdM smell heavenly, and I was literally about to buy MdM blind when I received the sample.

    Any comments on the Jicky/MdM comparison would be appreciated. I'll admit I didn't fully wear MdM, I just sprayed it on my arm, so I suppose there could be some differences with full application.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Well, as you saw, I'm one of those super-smellers, smelling Mourchoir de Monsieur for an extremely long time. To me there IS a difference: MdM has much more bergamot, much less resin, and perhaps more lavender than Jicky. MdM is "prickling", Jicky is "soft". When I'm in the resin mood, I choose Jicky, when I want a more herbal smell, I take MdM.

    Quote Originally Posted by bbBD View Post
    Since you brought it back up, I'll ask what I've been wanting to ask (but didn't want to start a thread)...

    Am I missing something with MdM? I find it to be nearly identical to Jicky... perhaps there are the slightest tweaks around the edges, but I don't feel like I can justify getting a bottle when I already have two Jicky bottles (EdT and PdT). Also, I got pretty poor longevity from MdM, about 2 hours. Don't get me wrong, Jicky/MdM smell heavenly, and I was literally about to buy MdM blind when I received the sample.

    Any comments on the Jicky/MdM comparison would be appreciated. I'll admit I didn't fully wear MdM, I just sprayed it on my arm, so I suppose there could be some differences with full application.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Quote Originally Posted by pluran View Post
    Oakmoss and tree moss are both fixatives. Oakmoss is stronger and can be described as sea-like, creamy, damp and very sensual. It adds depth and complexity, and imparts an earthy, woody, slightly leathery note to perfumes. It's imperative for chypres and fougeres. Tree moss can be described as delicately sensual with a dusty, earthy aroma. It's also less expensive.

    A few years ago it was believed that oakmoss caused allergies, and many perfume houses were reluctant to use it. It has now been discovered that tree moss, rather than oakmoss, is resposible for the allergies. But reversing political legislation is difficult. Many people still use oakmoss but many don't. There's no such thing as synthetic oakmoss so the restrictions cause problems. Chanel managed to use a pepper-iris accord to achieve the classical oakmoss effect in 31 Rue Cambon.
    Thank you for explaining that so well.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Guerlain View Post
    Oh Mike how lovely to read about you liking MdM - I thought you had tried it already, u lil in-the-closet Guerlain whore

    To me, it's so old-fashioned - in the best Guerlain sense of the word! It's really crispiness turning tenderly sweet. Haven't thought of cinnamon before - will remember it next time! On me, it lingers more than Jicky does - meaning: I can smell it on my clothes for days. So sometimes I prefer Jicky, it's actually less sweet to me...
    'Crispness turning tenderly sweet' is a great description Ulrik. From one whore to another. LOL.

    I guess, in my mind, I always thought I would prefer Jicky over MdM - how surprised I am.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 7th November 2008 at 07:34 PM.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Though MdM is not my FAVORITE scent (though I did like it a lot), it's really appeal to me is the fact that it's one of the most UNUSUAL fragrances in my collection. It truly smells like nothing else.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Jicky seems to be the "central" composition that has supported offshoots like MdM and Shalimar. I have a decant of MdM, but haven't given it a proper wearing yet. The similarities between Jicky and MdM are there, I think, although I would hesitate to call MdM "Jicky Light"--it really is its own fragrance. On me, it seems much more citrusy and the civet is also more prominent.

    This is a bit tangential, but did anybody ever notice a sort of fabric softener or soap quality to the drydown in the newest formulations of Jicky and Shalimar? Last night I spilled a good portion of my Shalimar EDP sample on myself. It smelled great for a long time, but now in the morning it seems soapy. I've had this with Jicky EDP also. MdM I never wore it long enough to check. And Jicky EDT fades too fast.
    Last edited by Asha; 8th November 2008 at 01:44 PM.

  31. #31

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Mouchoir de Monsieur is one of my top 10 scents, but I did not fall in love with this at first sniff. The top notes, which are very "civet-y," did not impress me.

    After a few wearings, however, I responded to the lovely lavender, fougere, vanilla. I was hooked.

    Anyone wish to share their experiences with Mouchoir?
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

  32. #32

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    I think it's the lavender that seems to bring out the civet in the beginning, but as the lavender relaxes and mellows with the rest of the fragrance the civet doesn't seem so evident. I have to say though, I really don't mind civet in anything.

    My nose always wants to compare MdM to Jicky and Jicky will always be forever in my top 10. MdM always falls way short of Jicky IMO, but has it's place when I want the warm fougere but not so much of those sensual notes. There seems to be a lot more patchouli compared to Jicky and I really wish it did last longer on me.
    *********************



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    "Press trigger twice to release the strength of wood...the wantonness of vanilla...the sentiment of floral...the passion of spice!"


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  33. #33

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    This is a great fragrance.

  34. #34

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    I'll wear this as my SOTD! It's been a long, long time!

  35. #35

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Makes me want to buy MdM immediately now! I love Jicky, would MdM be a safe blind buy?

  36. #36
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    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Quote Originally Posted by cannotavoidtrite View Post
    Makes me want to buy MdM immediately now! I love Jicky, would MdM be a safe blind buy?
    Not a safe blind buy. But if you are a Guerlain (and lavender) fan you really should try it.

  37. #37

    Default Re: Mouchoir de Monsieur, first time smelling

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Not a safe blind buy. But if you are a Guerlain (and lavender) fan you really should try it.
    I concur with mikeperez23--not a safe blind buy. You must test this one first, and I would recommend a few times.
    "No sweet perfume ever tortured me more than this." Desert Rose by Sting and Cheb Mami, Album 1999.

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