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  1. #1

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Etat Libre d'Orange

    Did a search and noticed there has only been a thread about Putain des Palaces, so decided to start one for the house itself!

    I've spent this week testing their scents and had a wonderful time! Even the ones I liked less or not at all were interesting in some way or other. Now that one of my all-time favourite houses, Comme des Garçons, has started to discontinue some of their wonderful older Series and launch two-scent "series" that are nothing much to write home about, it's great to see that there are still houses that make innovative stuff.

    My favourites were Charogne - rich, warm, full-bodied, sensual, Jasmin et Cigarette innovative combination of notes (reminds me a bit of Gobin Daudé Biche dans l'Absinthe), Sécrétions Magnifiques - starts off like iron + vitamin supplement, but turns into something rather fascinating, Antihéros - great-grandson of Caron Pour un Homme and Vierge et Toreros slightly off-putting "bloody" top notes, rich and warm drydown.

    Also quite liked Rien - Bandit meets CdG Synthetic Series, Vraie Blonde does an interesting turn from trashy to classy, Encens et Bubble Gum - like the name says! Has a same kind of Fifties Starlet mood as FM Lipstick Rose, Putain des Palaces - very nice, powdery "traditional" and elegant and Divin'Enfant - orange flower that goes Gourmand and has a very animalic drydown.

    The website: http://www.etatlibredorange.com/

    Also a tip for those about to buy ELdO scent:
    here they cost only 44 € for 50 ml http://www.ausliebezumduft.de/ (they don't have the full line, though) as opposed to the official site, where the price is 55 €. http://www.lessenteurs.com/ is another good alternative, thanks to the strength of £ compared to €...
    Last edited by tigrushka; 10th January 2008 at 01:32 PM.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  2. #2

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Cool! I also saw the line at a new Skins shop in Rotterdam last year.
    The thing that put me off really was the packaging.
    I went there fragrance sniffing with my two daughters 6 and 11, and you know, how do you explain, when my eldest came to me asking why erm.. a mans lightsaber (Secretion Magnifique)was drawn on the bottle.
    Lucky for me, she hasn't had French class yet.

    Maybe I will go back next time to sample them quietly, and leave the kids at home.

    Sounds like an artistic line in the true sense of the word though.

  3. #3

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by eric View Post
    The thing that put me off really was the packaging.
    I went there fragrance sniffing with my two daughters 6 and 11, and you know, how do you explain, when my eldest came to me asking why erm.. a mans lightsaber (Secretion Magnifique)was drawn on the bottle.
    Lucky for me, she hasn't had French class yet.

    Maybe I will go back next time to sample them quietly, and leave the kids at home.
    I agree that the names and images are pretty juvenile (but I can't help liking the playful naughty schoolboy attitude behind them). Whatever one thinks about them, the scents themselves are definitely worth trying!

    Some scents are very experimental like Sécrétions Magnifiques, but some quite traditional: for example Antoine Maisondieu's two men's scents, Antihéros and Eloge du Traître remind me of Caron's Pour un Homme and Yatagan.

    Would love to read more views and opinions, so if you have tried and/or own their scents, please share your thoughts!
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  4. #4

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Thanks for your descriptions! I was not terribly eager to try this line because of the gimmickry of the titles and artwork, but the two I've tried so far have impressed me. Putain des Palaces is a nice powdery-ambery rose--a bit much for me, but it has a rice powder note that I found unique. Jasmin et Cigarette is a wonderful blend of jasmine, hay, and tobacco that is almost edible--reminds me of banana bread actually. I've found this one really addictive; it's a warm and happy scent.

    I believe these are $65 for 50mL in the U.S., which makes them more affordable than most other niche fragrance lines. I've heard mixed reviews on the line as a whole, but I'd like to try others eventually.

  5. #5

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by sucrose View Post
    I was not terribly eager to try this line because of the gimmickry of the titles and artwork, but the two I've tried so far have impressed me.

    I believe these are $65 for 50mL in the U.S., which makes them more affordable than most other niche fragrance lines. I've heard mixed reviews on the line as a whole, but I'd like to try others eventually.
    I was also afraid that the line was more about naughty names than quality scents, but I'm happy I gave them a chance. And yes, they are also great value for money.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
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  6. #6
    zatarain's Avatar
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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by sucrose View Post
    ...

    I believe these are $65 for 50mL in the U.S., which makes them more affordable than most other niche fragrance lines. I've heard mixed reviews on the line as a whole, but I'd like to try others eventually.
    Where are you finding the line in the US? I have been wanting to try Jasmine et Cigarette, myself.
    Behemoth cut a slice of pineapple, salted it, peppered it, ate it, and then tossed off a second glass of alcohol so dashingly that everyone applauded.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by zatarain View Post
    Where are you finding the line in the US? I have been wanting to try Jasmine et Cigarette, myself.
    They are sold at Henri Bendel in New York (I think you have to call to order). For samples, The Perfumed Court might be the best place -- I got my samples in swaps.

  8. #8
    zatarain's Avatar
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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Ah, thank you; it's not on their (HB) web site, but I do remember reading that they were going to stock it.
    Behemoth cut a slice of pineapple, salted it, peppered it, ate it, and then tossed off a second glass of alcohol so dashingly that everyone applauded.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    I have only tested Rossy de Palma in ELdO line. It is very strong and straightforward. I love it
    Current favorites:

    Jicky, Mitsouko, Shiseido Susuro,Or et Noir

  10. #10

    Vivek's Avatar
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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    I know this is OT, but Tigrushka, what scents of CdG are being discontinued :O?

  11. #11

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by Vivek View Post
    I know this is OT, but Tigrushka, what scents of CdG are being discontinued :O?
    The Leaves Series 1: Calamus, Lily, Mint, Shiso, Tea
    The Sweet Series 7: BurntSugar, Nomadtea, SpicyCocoa, StickyCake, WoodCoffee
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  12. #12

    Default Help with Etat Libre d'Orange

    Which scents from Etat Libre d'Orange should I sample?
    I think I'm ordering a sample pack from TPC this weekend and want to check these out. I definitely want to try Putain, but what else?
    WISHLIST: Tokyo Milk Honey & the Moon, Brooklyn Bunny Lettuce
    "Another way to take up more space is to wear perfume. I really love wearing perfume." ANDY WARHOL
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  13. #13

    Default Re: Help with Etat Libre d'Orange

    Jasmin & Cigarette
    Currently wearing: Sycomore (new) by Chanel

  14. #14
    Basenotes Institution

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    Default Re: Help with Etat Libre d'Orange

    My opinion will not be popular, I am afraid: Do we really need more than one thread about exact same thing here just seven or eight threads apart? About the fragrances that are just average.....

  15. #15

    Default Re: Help with Etat Libre d'Orange

    Probs not....here's a link to the other thread.

    http://community.basenotes.net/showt...highlight=etat
    Currently wearing: Sycomore (new) by Chanel

  16. #16

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    A few thoughts about the ones I sampled up to now:

    Jasmin et Cigarettes - yes, the pairing is rather innovative and well done. To my nose, the jasmine note is very fruity, its fabled banana jam qualities come really to the fore. I don't get any ashtray or stale cigarette smoke in there, rather a hay note, as somebody else mentioned already. However, I already own my jasmines of choice (Mona di Orio's Carnation and SL Sarrasins) thus Jasmine et Cigarettes won't find a place in my collection.

    Rien - I did find this the most interesting from the vial, but on my skin it gave off a loud , obnoxious camphoraceous note that wouldn't go away.

    Putain des Palaces - a misnamed ELDO, in my opinion. Wearable, classy, feminine, with a floral heart that is full-bodied but not overpowering or loud. I don't know whether it is the effect of the ginger and leather notes singing together, but I get a fresh blond tobacco leaves note that pleases my nose immensely. I acquired a big decant and toyed with a FB purchase for some time.

    I didn't sample Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection but bought it blind on a whim. I was lucky because I love it. A dark red rose scent that manages to be bright and deep at the same time. I adore the ginger and pepper notes in it and the drydown is wonderful.

    I am awaiting samples of Delicious Closet Queen and Vierges et Toreros and, after tig's description, I long to sample Charogne!
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  17. #17

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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrushka View Post
    The Leaves Series 1: Calamus, Lily, Mint, Shiso, Tea
    The Sweet Series 7: BurntSugar, Nomadtea, SpicyCocoa, StickyCake, WoodCoffee
    Calamus is nice in the leaves series, didn't care for any of the sweet series, suppose it's understandable :P
    S'long as they don't discontinue the synthetics series and the cologne series and the incense series, along with sequoia from the red series, i'm a happy man

  18. #18

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by Lady_in_Black View Post
    Jasmin et Cigarettes - yes, the pairing is rather innovative and well done. To my nose, the jasmine note is very fruity, its fabled banana jam qualities come really to the fore. I don't get any ashtray or stale cigarette smoke in there, rather a hay note, as somebody else mentioned already. However, I already own my jasmines of choice (Mona di Orio's Carnation and SL Sarrasins) thus Jasmine et Cigarettes won't find a place in my collection.
    I found the hay note very dominant, too, almost stronger than the tobacco.

    The only jasmine scent I have so far is A la Nuit, and JeC is very different from it, so I might be tempted...

    Quote Originally Posted by Lady_in_Black View Post
    I didn't sample Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection but bought it blind on a whim. I was lucky because I love it. A dark red rose scent that manages to be bright and deep at the same time. I adore the ginger and pepper notes in it and the drydown is wonderful.
    I must give this one another try, I mostly got pure 100% Bulgarian rose oil from it. Beautiful, yes, but I expected something else, too.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lady_in_Black View Post
    I am awaiting samples of Delicious Closet Queen and Vierges et Toreros and, after tig's description, I long to sample Charogne!
    Charogne was for me the biggest "WOW!" of the bunch, am really looking forward to reading others' comments about it.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
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  19. #19

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: Help with Etat Libre d'Orange

    I'll merge...
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    My opinion will not be popular, I am afraid: Do we really need more than one thread about exact same thing here just seven or eight threads apart? About the fragrances that are just average.....
    One thread for one topic is sufficient, yes, but are the scents average or not is beside the point, isn't it?
    Last edited by tigrushka; 11th January 2008 at 05:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  20. #20

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrushka View Post



    I must give this one another try, I mostly got pure 100% Bulgarian rose oil from it. Beautiful, yes, but I expected something else, too.


    Yes, please! May I suggest to spray it? I believe it gives it best then, displaying fully all its notes.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
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  21. #21

    Default Re: Help with Etat Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    My opinion will not be popular, I am afraid: Do we really need more than one thread about exact same thing here just seven or eight threads apart? About the fragrances that are just average.....
    Sorry - didn't realize the other thread was discussing the house's fragrances. I thought it was about purchasing.

    And since I haven't sampled them yet, I have no way of knowing whether or not they're average.
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  22. #22

    tigrushka's Avatar
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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    I gave Charogne a full wear yesterday and am so smitten with it that I ordered a bottle. I'm wearing it today, too, and wishing the sample will last until the parcel arrives...

    If you love smooth, soft, sweet but very animalic scents, give this one a try.
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    I got samples from this house when it was first announced last year (LOVED the "let's shock the 'rents" approach) and fell in love with Putain.

    The others didn't register but because of this thread have ordered:

    Charogne
    Eloge du Traitre
    Jasmin et Cigarettes
    Rossy de Palma
    Vrai Blonde
    Delicious Closet Queen

    from our friends at the PC and will report. Putain is still on my FB list.....
    "When the heart is right, "for" and "against" are forgotten." Chuang Tzu
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  24. #24

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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    So great to hear wonderful things about Rossy de Palma's Protection! I've been meaning to try it for a while, and now I think I will. She's a celebrity whose fragrance I wouldn't mind buying.

  25. #25

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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Playing around with ELdO's.....so far loving Jasmine and Cigarettes (starts out like an ashtray and ends up in the gentlest of jasmines with a tobacco - not ashy ashytray - undertone. Very disco in the original sense of the word and scene (dark little boite in Paris - scratchy music from a phonograph - Gauloises abound) and Delicious Closet Queen - violets and Iris and roses, some cedary thing over smooth leather. Soignee....
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  26. #26

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    The names are a bit ho hum (and the pictures on the website!). Seems Les Senteurs is just starting to stock this line so I will check it out.

  27. #27

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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Continuing with Rossy de Palma (more Picasso than Paloma!!)...first whiff was licorice-y...followed by an echo of church to which I am accompanied by a woman wearing veils of patchouli and in the church there are bunches of heavy lidded roses....all swirling....an a couple of hours later it's still evolving....

    On the other arm, Vraie Blonde...quick blast of aldehydes that mellowed into peachy roses and a hint of myrrh. Soft and cuddly - Marilyn being kittenish and not vampy.

    My take on this line is that if I had the money (and the closet space) I'd invest......
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  28. #28

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    I only tested a few of this brand: Charogne, Putain des palaces and Rossy de Palma.

    Charogne smelled weird on me, I had mixed feelings about the putain (and my husband hated it).
    But I fell in love (hard) with Rossy de Palma. Totally unexpected, because I am usually not a rose lover. Or maybe most roses don't love me LOL. Anyway, this one is special and I am glad I have a bottle now!

  29. #29

    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    I must admit that the names of the fragrances put me off them quite a bit (there's no need to be shocking nowadays, not in this way). I tried Noel au Balcon (or something like that), which was just like Christmas pudding or gingerbread, and also Divin Enfant, a powdery fragrance with orange blossom. It was OK, but nothing to write home about. I guess I have to ask for a whole collection of their samples. Do you think it's worth it?

  30. #30

    TaoLady's Avatar
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    Default Re: Etat Libre d'Orange

    Quote Originally Posted by alba View Post
    ... Do you think it's worth it?
    It was to me. I found three so far that have made it to my "lust list"!!

    But really, only you can make that determination. Let us know!
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

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