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  1. #1

    Default Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    I love things with an old-fashioned, distinguished, weighty, elegant, artistocratic twist to them - and that includes perfume. What would you say are the top 10 perfumes that could be described in such terms?
    Anything that would pass as modern, too youthful, unisex, flirty in a "mall" kind of way, candy-trendy would constitute the exact opposite of what I am interested in. Others might be in between...but what are the top 10 old-fashioned, heavy-weights in your opinion?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    (NO PARTICULAR ORDER)

    1.) Youth Dew by Estée Lauder

    2.) Bellodgia by Caron

    3.) Joy by Jean Patou

    4.) Estée Lauder Private Collection (Not really an "old" frag, but smells vintage in its opulence.)

    5.) Sirène by Vicky Tiel (")

    6.) Fidgi by Guy Laroche (")

    7.) Ysatis by Givenchy (")

    8.) Must de Cartier (")

    9.) Victorian Posy by Penhaligons (")

    10.) Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez


    Runners up: Ambre Canelle by Creed, Habanita by Molinard, Molinard de Molinard, Je Reviens by Worth, Estée Lauder Beautiful, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Lancôme Magie Noire, Chanel Coco, Chanel #5, Chanel #19, Chanel Cristalle, En Avion by Caron, Organdy by Givenchy, Tabac Blond by Caron, L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain, Estée Lauder Cinnabar, Paris by Yves St. Laurent, Opium by Yves St. Laurent, Volupté by Oscar de la Renta, Champagne/Yvresse by Yves St. Laurent
    Last edited by tvlampboy; 11th January 2008 at 01:33 AM.

    Peggy: "Right now, we have to get to the mental institution. Something terrible has happened."
    Latrelle: "What?"
    Peggy: "Brother Boy has tried to kill himself. He jumped out of his bedroom window."
    Latrelle: "Isn't he only on the second floor?"
    Peggy: "Yes, but he hit his head on a lawn gnome."
    Fr. Sordid Lives: The Series
    *****
    "Live, live, live! Life is a banquet, and most poor suckers are starving to death."
    Auntie Mame
    [/B]

  3. #3
    Lean in closer, dear
    Quarry's Avatar
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    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    There's old, and then there's old. Other BNers will resurrect the inventions of Guerlain for their lists, so I'll take a slightly different tack.

    A number of the fragrances from the perfume shops of New Orleans smell like they have been carried forward from a hundred years ago, some for their innocence, but over-archingly for their simplicity. This does not make them dull, but classic, and truer to the origins of perfumery. However, I have to say I don't think of them as heavyweights, so take that for what it's worth.

    If you're sewing up your own historical costume and want to step back in time, I recommend sampling Hové's:
    1 RUE ROYALE
    2 CAMELLIA
    3 TEA OLIVE
    4 VETIVERT
    5 LAVANDE
    6 CLOCHETTES DES BOIS
    7 GINGER BLANC
    8 PURPLE VIOLET
    9 HONEYSUCKLE
    10 MAGNOLIA

  4. #4

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Vol de Nuit
    Narcisse Noir
    Patou 1000
    Joy
    Chanel #5
    24 Faubourg
    Boucheron
    Must de Cartier
    Last edited by seattlelight; 10th January 2008 at 09:20 PM.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Chanel No 5
    Chanel No 19
    Bellodgia
    Fleur De Rocaille
    Joy
    Fidgi
    Vivara
    Cinnabar
    Rive Gauche
    Tresor

  6. #6

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Many Carons:
    Bellodgia
    Poivre
    Farnesiana
    Fleurs de Rocaille (the original with the S)

    Joy
    Shocking
    Arpege
    Bal a Versaille
    Jolie Madam
    Miss Balmain

    Plus Esther Holman's scents all have the classic touch (and I think the 3 sister scents do too)
    Last edited by Zibeline; 10th January 2008 at 09:45 PM.

  7. #7
    musse's Avatar
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    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Je Reviens
    Shalimar
    Infini (Caron)
    Sublime (Jean Patou)
    Le Dix (Balenciaga)
    Coco
    Antilope (Weil)
    Baghari (Piguet)
    Volupte (Oscar de la Renta)
    Mystere (Rochas)
    Everything passes. Everything changes. Just do what you think you should do.
    --Bob Dylan

  8. #8
    Brielle87's Avatar
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    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Memoire Cherie
    Blue Grass (original)
    Arpege
    My Sin
    Quadrille
    Le Dix
    Narcisse Noir
    Femme
    Mystere
    Sortilege (original)
    (and 1 more for good measure)
    Mademoiselle Ricci

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Some of the names I'm reading here make me queasy, but not because I dislike them. I remember Ysatis, Tresor, Paris, and Beautiful as modern fragrances I enjoyed when I first began acquiring and wearing perfumes. It's like hearing a favorite song on the radio, and realizing you're listening to the oldies station. Sigh.
    Last edited by Heartwood; 10th January 2008 at 11:26 PM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Quote Originally Posted by an_oud_girl View Post
    Some of the names I'm reading here make me queasy, but not because I dislike them. I remember Ysatis, Tresor, Paris, and Beautiful as modern fragrances I enjoyed when I first began acquiring and wearing perfumes. It's like hearing a favorite song on the radio, and realizing you're listening to the oldies station. Sigh.
    Again, I listed the ones I listed not because they're "old" or "vintage," but because they're opulent and rich and (per my standards, anyway) almost belong to another era. A lot of Eighties frags are like that -- even in men's frags. (Penhaligons' Eighties frags and Givenchy's 80's frags and many YSL Eighties frags are like that.)

    Peggy: "Right now, we have to get to the mental institution. Something terrible has happened."
    Latrelle: "What?"
    Peggy: "Brother Boy has tried to kill himself. He jumped out of his bedroom window."
    Latrelle: "Isn't he only on the second floor?"
    Peggy: "Yes, but he hit his head on a lawn gnome."
    Fr. Sordid Lives: The Series
    *****
    "Live, live, live! Life is a banquet, and most poor suckers are starving to death."
    Auntie Mame
    [/B]

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Not in order of preference:

    Bouquet di Violette Borsari 1890
    Après L'ondée - Guerlain 1906
    Narcisse Noir - Caron 1911
    L'Heure Bleue - Guerlain 1912
    Mitsouko - Guerlain 1919
    Habanita - Molinard 1921
    No. 5 - Chanel 1921
    Shalimar - Guerlain 1925
    Joy - Patou 1930
    Je Reviens Worth 1932
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
    Chanakya

  12. #12

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    I love old-fashioned fragrances. Here are my picks that take me back to another time in history.

    Rochas Femme
    MItsouko
    Chanel No. 5
    Chanel No. 22
    Shalimar
    24 Faubourg (not old, but old-fashioned)
    Joy
    L'Air du Temps
    Fracas
    Youth Dew

  13. #13

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Thank you so much for your responses. I just wanted to make a list that I would get to sample in time though i am pretty sure none would surpass #5 in my book, with the exception of maybe lasting power and sillage.

    I tried Fracas last year and I wanted really badly to love it because of its strength and "weight"...but unfortunately, the reaction it has with my skin is quite bad. On the one hand I love its "old-fashion"-ness and distinction from today's ligh-weight, superficial fragrances- but on the other hand I have to admit it really stinks on me. My husband said yuck the moment he smelled it on my wrist, a few good hours after applying it.

    I would have liked to have it take the role of "evening"perfume in my limited wardrobe but it is not going to happen. I am hoping to find one perfume that is as evening, weighty and prominent as Fracas...but is...not Fracas!

  14. #14

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    I've listed some that I adore and others that simply don't like me but are true old classics. These are in no particular order:

    1. Mitsuoko (Guerlain)
    2. Bois di Violette (Borsari)
    3. Marechale (discontinued Crown Perfumery)
    4. Bellodgia (Caron)
    5. Joy (Jean Patou)
    6. Shalimar (Guerlain)
    7. No. 5 (Chanel)
    8. My Sin
    9. Narcisse Noir (Caron)
    10. Je Reviens (Worth)

  15. #15

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Speaking of Fracas...I also tried Baghari Fracas today and it seemed much more amenable than Fracas. A bit more soapy and not offensive. I looked for reviews but there's none. How do you find this one compared to Fracas in terms of lasting power, sillage as well as fragrance itself?...

  16. #16
    Brielle87's Avatar
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    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Quote Originally Posted by syracusa View Post
    Speaking of Fracas...I also tried Baghari Fracas today and it seemed much more amenable than Fracas. A bit more soapy and not offensive. I looked for reviews but there's none. How do you find this one compared to Fracas in terms of lasting power, sillage as well as fragrance itself?...
    Oh Baghari is quite different than Fracas. It has much more of a gourmand quality, lots of sparklly aldehyde. It has jasmine, violet, and rose, and it drys down to a wonderful amber/powder base; delicious. I find it starts out quite strong, has a lovely sillage, and lasts for the whole day. I love Fracas in the summer, but I love Baghari in the cooler weather. Nice choice.

  17. #17
    Artisankey's Avatar
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    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    I kept trying to come back to the ideas of "heavy weight" as well as "classic," and "feminine." After deliberation, this is my list. The first 4 I like very much and do wear. The following 6, even though I don't wear them, round out the ideas of "classic" and "heavy weight" in my mind.

    Shalimar
    Joy
    Chanel No 5
    Chanel No 22
    L'Air du Temps
    Mitsouko
    L'Heure Bleue
    Youth Dew
    Apres l'Ondee
    Narcisse Noir
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by syracusa View Post
    I tried Fracas last year and I wanted really badly to love it because of its strength and "weight... On the one hand I love its "old-fashion"-ness and distinction from today's ligh-weight, superficial fragrances- ...
    Wow- each to his own. Fracas, to me, is a very modern, clean, bright floral without a hint of powder. I'd never describe it as "weighty" or "old fashioned." Works great with my chemsitry though- a very soft and pretty tuberose scent. This one seems to be love it/hate it with very few reactions inbetween.
    Last edited by Artisankey; 11th January 2008 at 05:00 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    Scent is such a lovely, simple pleasure!

  18. #18

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    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Caron: Tabac Blond, Narcisse Noir, Nuit de Noël, N'Aimez Que Moi, Poivre
    Guerlain: Après l'Ondée, L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Shalimar, Vol de Nuit
    Jean Patou: Joy, Sublime
    Chanel: No 5, Cuir de Russie, Bois des îles, Coco
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."
    Currently wearing: Encre Noire by Lalique

  19. #19

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Try Crown of Gold, it has a distinct vintage quality.

    To me Fracas smells quite modern, unlike Mitsouko which, although elegant, definitely has an old-worldness to it.

  20. #20

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Quote Originally Posted by chengfun View Post
    Try Crown of Gold, it has a distinct vintage quality.

    To me Fracas smells quite modern, unlike Mitsouko which, although elegant, definitely has an old-worldness to it.
    So interesting to see how a perfume performs differently and comes off so differently for various people. When I first smelled Fracas, it instantly (and I mean INSTANTLY) reminded me of my grandmother's closet, her clothes, her ways ...and those of other women of her generation (though I am not sure she ever acutally had Fracas but I think she may have...I have vague memories of some black perfume bottles...).
    To me it smells clearly like Old Europe - which is really nice on the one hand because I miss my childhood land...but on the other hand, when I try to use it myself, it just plain STINKS on me. And I wanted so badly to be able to pull this one off.
    It is extremely heavy in a nauseating kind of way; and I am the type who actually prefers stronger perfumes, I tend to avoid the light and airy. Baghari was much better but still far from achieving that "million dollar" sensation that #5 does it on me. This #5 thing that I had avoided for years by virtue of a completely silly belief (OLP) smells unbelievably on me. I never iamgined this could have been exactly the smell I had been looking for - for years. I could literally bathe in this stuff.
    My only problem is that I adore the fragrance so much I cannot help noticing its somewhat moderate strenth, power and sillage. Not the best I've seen in this regard. When I walk around with it, all I want to do is to just TALK to the perfume and tell it to JUST SAY IT LOUDER!!!!
    On me, #5 performs very discreetly, it is a stay-close-to-the-body perfume...- very different from the "cloying/strong" smell reported by some. While some people love this quality (the discreet-ness), I prefer more spalsh. If only #5 could talk louder, like Fracas does, I would be in heaven.
    But the fragrance itself is literally UNBEATABLE in terms of distinction and grace.

    My goal is to discover all old-fashiony, elegant perfumes that are very, very close to Chanel #5. I would just like to at least know them all...
    --------------------------------------
    And speaking of Youth Dew and all other Estee Lauder fragrances. I tried them all once, about a year ago...and I had to conclude that this is a House with perfumes that aspire to be classy but end up in a mediocre, lowly, drug-store fragrance mess upon drydown. Definitely a house I will always stay away from.
    Last edited by syracusa; 11th January 2008 at 02:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  21. #21

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    I have several more, but these are the ones that first came to mind:

    Lady Caron
    Shocking
    Oscar
    Mitsouko
    Joy
    Tabac Blond
    Nahema
    L' Heure Bleue
    Opium
    Narcisse Noir
    "Woe to the one who's love of elixirs, grows into madness"
    :bounce:

  22. #22

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Have you tried Liu, by Guerlain? It is a no. 5 smell-alike (I prefer it to 5, but I don't wear either) and may - not sure - have more sillage or strength. Others on the board will know better about that than I. But if you haven't sniffed it, you definitely should.

  23. #23

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    My top ten odlies, in no particular order:

    Chanel Cristalle
    Chanel No 5
    Chanel No 19
    L´Heure Bleu
    Madame Rochas
    Mitsouko
    Rive Gauche
    Roma
    Samsara
    Shalimar

    Some of these isn´t so very old... I hope these will become classics, too!
    --------------------------------------
    Quote Originally Posted by syracusa View Post
    My goal is to discover all old-fashiony, elegant perfumes that are very, very close to Chanel #5. I would just like to at least know them all...
    syracusa, you should at least sniff at Madame Rochas, if this is your goal. It was inspired by Chanel No 5 and Arpege, and I do find a bit of No 5 in it. Madame Rochas is creamier, brighter and a little bit louder compared to No 5, at least on my skin...
    Last edited by Margareta; 11th January 2008 at 05:11 PM.
    Faves right now: Chanel No 19, Stella Rose Absolute, L´Heure Bleu, Elixir de Merveilles, Samsara.

  24. #24

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Seattlelight and Margareta,

    Thank you for the No 5 smell-alike tips - I will definitely try both Madame Rochas and Liu by Guerlain.

    At lunch I went on another sniffing ride to try some other oldies.I thought I'd give Joy a try, as I heard it is in the same family as No 5. It was funny. I found it frilly and mediocre in an old-fashion way, a far cry from the authoritative, aristocratic No 5. Not even close - although I can still see how this is a floral.
    There was a note in it that conjured images of a lower-middle class anglo woman (more American rather than Enlish), puritanical, with burgeois aspirations, the type who collects dolls, speaks in a high voice, is and lives in a far away suburban MacMansion decorated in kitchy Victorian style...

    Bu contrast, No 5 evokes images of the quintessential lady, not exactly "pretty like a flower" in features, but so classy and well-bred that when she steps out of her car (or wherever she steps out from), all others just plain freeze.



    I'll see who Madame Rochas and Liu will bring over...)

  25. #25

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    syracusa!

    Let Madame Rochas linger on your skin for several hours before judging her. We all have different skins, but if she sings as lovely on your skin as on mine, you will find something very classy, and yet very alive and fun!

    I am not a fan of Joy either... I´m holding my fingers crossed that Madame Rochas won´t dissapoint you! Please, let us know here on the board!
    Last edited by Margareta; 11th January 2008 at 07:18 PM.
    Faves right now: Chanel No 19, Stella Rose Absolute, L´Heure Bleu, Elixir de Merveilles, Samsara.

  26. #26

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    I will add one that has not been mentioned yet:

    Arpege by Lanvin
    "Like a lobster with a pearl in its claw, the beet held the jasmine firmly without crushing or obscuring it. Beet lifted jasmine, the way a bullnecked partner lifts a ballerina, and the pair came on stage on citron's fluty cue. As if jasmine were a collection of beautiful paintings, beet hung it in the galleries of the nose, insured it against fire or theft, threw a party to celebrate it. Citron mailed the invitations." Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins p. 189

    What I am loving right now: Shalimar vintage extrait, Chanel Bois des Iles, Chanel no. 22, Le Labo Iris 39, Guerlain Iris Ganache

  27. #27

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Syracusa writes of joy, "I found it frilly and mediocre in an old-fashion way, a far cry from the authoritative, aristocratic No 5. Not even close - although I can still see how this is a floral. There was a note in it that conjured images of a lower-middle class Anglo woman (more American rather than Enlish), puritanical, with burgeois aspirations, the type who collects dolls, speaks in a high voice, is and lives in a far away suburban MacMansion decorated in kitchy Victorian style."

    Really? I don't get that at all from Joy. I find Joy explosively floral and very complex, if a bit dated. What you wrote is, however, an exact description of almost (but not every) Mary Kary women's fragrance I've ever smelled.
    Last edited by tvlampboy; 11th January 2008 at 07:36 PM.

    Peggy: "Right now, we have to get to the mental institution. Something terrible has happened."
    Latrelle: "What?"
    Peggy: "Brother Boy has tried to kill himself. He jumped out of his bedroom window."
    Latrelle: "Isn't he only on the second floor?"
    Peggy: "Yes, but he hit his head on a lawn gnome."
    Fr. Sordid Lives: The Series
    *****
    "Live, live, live! Life is a banquet, and most poor suckers are starving to death."
    Auntie Mame
    [/B]

  28. #28

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Quote Originally Posted by tvlampboy View Post
    Syracusa writes of joy, "I found it frilly and mediocre in an old-fashion way, a far cry from the authoritative, aristocratic No 5. Not even close - although I can still see how this is a floral. There was a note in it that conjured images of a lower-middle class Anglo woman (more American rather than Enlish), puritanical, with burgeois aspirations, the type who collects dolls, speaks in a high voice, is and lives in a far away suburban MacMansion decorated in kitchy Victorian style."

    Really? I don't get that at all from Joy. I find Joy explosively floral and very complex, if a bit dated. What you wrote is, however, an exact description of almost (but not every) Mary Kary women's fragrance I've ever smelled.
    I never smelled Mary Kay anything because I never saw them anywhere; but from what I know about Mary Kay's image, I would stay very away ...anyway.

  29. #29

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Actually, Mary Kay's Tamerisk for Men was a great frag -- bottles still pop up on eBay, and the frag has its devotees (myself included) here on the board. Quattro wasn't bad, either. I'm just not very familiar with the women's frags. The ones I've smelled were pretty bad, but that's not to say they all are. As with Avon (another company that produces mostly dreck), though, there are definite exceptions. I bought three bottles of Mesmerize for Men for gifts last year; all were greatly appreciated. Even today, I get weepy when I smell Sweet Honesty (my paternal aunt's frag of choice when I was young). Even the lesser companies still turn out a winner now and again.

    Peggy: "Right now, we have to get to the mental institution. Something terrible has happened."
    Latrelle: "What?"
    Peggy: "Brother Boy has tried to kill himself. He jumped out of his bedroom window."
    Latrelle: "Isn't he only on the second floor?"
    Peggy: "Yes, but he hit his head on a lawn gnome."
    Fr. Sordid Lives: The Series
    *****
    "Live, live, live! Life is a banquet, and most poor suckers are starving to death."
    Auntie Mame
    [/B]

  30. #30

    Default Re: Top Ten Old-Fashioned, Non-Modern Fragrances?

    Quote Originally Posted by Margareta View Post
    syracusa!

    Let Madame Rochas linger on your skin for several hours before judging her. We all have different skins, but if she sings as lovely on your skin as on mine, you will find something very classy, and yet very alive and fun!

    I am not a fan of Joy either... I´m holding my fingers crossed that Madame Rochas won´t dissapoint you! Please, let us know here on the board!
    Margareta,

    I will certainly try this one. I've been meaning to for a while because my mom mentioned it a few times and funnily enough, I remember LOVING, as a child, all fragrances my mom used to wear when she was young (No 5, L'Air du Temps and Madame Rochas). I am always surprised when I hear women saying that they don't want to smell like their mothers. I am the exact opposite, if I could smell EXACTLY like my mother used to when she was young and wearing all those hot perfumes - I would be SOOO happy. I just don't think I have her great chemistry.

    So Madame Rochas is surely an upcoming sniff. Trouble is I don't know where to get it from. I haven't seen it anywhere. Who carries it?

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