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  1. #1
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    mikeperez23's Avatar
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    Default Gourmand and floral = Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

    A fragrance that contains a gourmand note (basically, a replication of an edible object) and a floral note (flowers) together, must be handled IMO with skill and delicacy.

    In food, it has been achieved quite well (fresh lychee fruit, jasmine tea, Turkish Delight - to name a few) and not-so-well (edible flowers; violet scented gum - ack!). In addition, a few fragrances have turned my stomach with this same gourmand / floral combo. Two that come to mind instantly are: Chocolate Greedy by Montale (read my thread here) and Blue Agava and Cacao by Jo Malone (something about this combo reminds me of gourmand hairspray, if such a thing existed).

    Enter my SOTD: Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale (thanks Michael, for the sample).

    UCE is part of PG's Private Collection - in fact, its not even in the Basenotes directory yet. I was at Scent Bar last month, and I mentioned my love of cinnamon notes. Both of the Luckyscent guys turned around in unison and grabbed the bottle of UCE. I had nose fatigue by then (the Profumum Fumidus had literally taken OVER the entire Scent Bar store when I sprayed it on my wrist!) so I sniffed the scent strip, instantly loving what I smelled and thought I must try this on my skin soon. Michael gave me a sample - and combined with today's cool Miami temperature I have completely fallen for it.

    Here's my thoughts on UCE:

    - Top notes are cinnamon Red Hots style, sweet and fiery - think Rousse by Serge Lutens but even sweeter and not so nostril tingling. In addition the first top notes blend a distinct booze note in addition to the cinnamon - I'm thinking cognac or rum. If a bartender created a 'Cinnamon Manhattan' cocktail perhaps it might smell like UCE.
    - In just a few minutes, the cinnamon is joined by the most 100% realistic gingerbread accord I've ever smelled. I haven't smelled the new CB I Hate Perfume gingerbread scent, but UCE has to be very close. Baked dough, dark brown sugar, the slight pungency of the ginger and star anise - I must stress the scent is not cloying or buttery, but manages to walk that sweet/spice line skillfully. Fans of Ambre Narguile by Hermes or Tobacco Vanille by Tom Ford should pay attention to this one.
    - Oh yes...tea. The smell of tea arrives at this point. Not smoky tea (like Tea for Two by L'Artisan) but a gentle black pekoe tea accord. Ever smell an old tea bag, that's been in the cup too long? That smell.
    - It's extremely cuddly - not a formal scent at all IMO. I would feel extremely comfortable putting this on right before bedtime. In addition, it's cuddly but masculine also.
    - Oh yes, almost forgot about the FLORAL part of this scent - the drydown is primarily the smell of osmanthus flowers. I happen to love the osmanthus note but osmanthus is not always handled successfully in fragrances IMO. I love JC Ellena, yet I was disappointed in his Hermessence: Osmanthus Yunnan by Hermes (Anorexic Osmanthus, is a more appropriate name). The actual smell of a blossoming osmanthus tree (I smelled one in person in a botanical garden in Atlanta) is an amazing thing - floral, almost peach-y tartness and you can smell it from afar very distinctly. The drydown of UCE manages to capture this, and it blends just perfectly with the tail end of the gourmand notes beforehand. Osmanthus (floral) and gourmand (gingerbread) never smelled so good.

    I'm not sure if it's wise for me to purchase some of this at this point in the year - Miami tends to warm up pretty quickly in the next couple of months, and UCE really should be worn in cooler climate. But it's gotten my attention, that's for sure.

    Any other gourmand/floral fragrances that you recommend?

  2. #2

    Default Re: Gourmand and floral = Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

    Oh my. I have *got* to stop reading reviews, because y'all make me want to run out and buy things. This sounds like something I would really fall for.

    I don't have any other recommendations, but thank you for an excellent description!
    .
    Sniff and let sniff.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Gourmand and floral = Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

    Wonderful review, Mike, and now me wants too. Boo! I've spent the day wearing JHL; it sounds like there might be similarities?
    My current top 10: Richard James; Clive Christian No. 1 for Men; L'Artisan Voleur de Roses; Creed Aventus, Erolfa, Santal Imperial, Virgin Island Water, and Windsor; Serge Lutens Chergui and Gris Clair

    "It is never to late to be what you might have been." George Eliot

  4. #4

    Smile Re: Gourmand and floral = Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

    I am a gourmand frag junkie! I'd love to get it too. I really think that basenotes has help greatly contribute better profit margins for so many perfume companies. Ohhh how the internet has helped us all become a bit more worldly.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Gourmand and floral = Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

    Beautiful review, mike! I'd love to have your way with words.

    I discovered UCE last summer via a decant and it was fascination at first sniff, though I didn't wear it until the weather got cold. I agree with the reference to Ambre Narguilé and Tobacco Vanille since, like AN and TV, Un Crime Exotique has a definitely gourmand structure but succeeds in not being sugary/cloying or downright foody.
    It is interesting that you get osmanthus in the drydown - on my skin, it's the heart of the scent bearing the apricot tinged blossoms. And now I need sakecat to tell me how much she dislikes it

    Can't think of another gourmand-floral blended as beautifully as UCE right now...
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Sniffing around
    I'll stop wearing black when they make something darker

  6. #6

    Default Re: Gourmand and floral = Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

    Excellent review as always Mike. As much as you like cinnamon in your scents, I thought that you would enjoy additional testing of Un Crime Exotique. I agree that UCE never becomes too spicy or sweet/cloying. The gingerbread note has a strong presence but never owns the scent and shares equal time with the other notes. It's similar to other PG scents I have worn in that it has distinct movement between phases giving rise to some interesting accords. BTW PG makes my current favorite gourmand, Aomassai. UCE is also recommended for fans of Bois 1920 Sushi Imperiale (cinnamon, nutmeg, etc.). For a fresh ginger note, or ginger root, try Tom Ford Japon Noir.

  7. #7
    Basenotes Institution
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    Default Re: Gourmand and floral = Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

    Quote Originally Posted by wrfritsche View Post
    Wonderful review, Mike, and now me wants too. Boo! I've spent the day wearing JHL; it sounds like there might be similarities?
    You're welcome everyone!!

    Well, I have never really given JHL a full wearing. My first sample last year leaked in the mail and I only got a smidgen to try. However more recently Paul (TwoRoads) sent me a healthy sample to try - after I posted my experience with Cinnabar (Lauder) that is supposed to be very close to JHL (Cinnabar was way too aldehydic for me).

    I will get back to you, once I give JHL a whirl.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 16th January 2008 at 09:07 PM.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Gourmand and floral = Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

    Sounds wonderful and now another on the must-smell list!
    I've trademarked the color bleu

  9. #9
    mastorer's Avatar
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    Default Re: Gourmand and floral = Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Generale

    Kadota and Yvette.... mmmmmm..
    MICHAEL STORER fine niche perfumery for the individualist
    www.michaelstorer.com

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