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  1. #1

    Default Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    Just tried Farina's Kölnisch Juchten this morning, and I must say, of all the Russian Leather type fragrances I've tried, I'd have to name this one the best.
    The top notes open with an copal-myrrh note, but the fragrance quickly changes into a complex leather with civet, patchouli, birch tar and possibly hints of castoreum, iris and something that lightens the blend ( a tiny bit of something like sweet orange? ) This is a rich, complex leather; the base notes remind me simultaneously of Givenchy Gentleman and Creed's Cuir de Russie.
    Now, does anyone know who sells this stuff? All I can find online are mentions of a rather unreliable sounding place in San Francisco.

  2. #2

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    I got it from that place in San Fran and the man was very professional; it was shipped quickly, no problem at all.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    I remember that I bought in SF another Kolhnisch Juchten - Regence (Regent?).

    Jean Marie Farina - did you mean Jaime Lliteras webshop? Antique european perfumes shop?

    Anyway, there`re some bottles in Germany, Austria as well.

    And I do agree - it`s marvellous scent!
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  4. #4

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    The original Farina seems to have been discontinued or is dormant with Farina Gegenüber/ Germany. Kölnisch Juchten is a good one and it stands for a whole Era which probably ended with a quick growth of French masculine perfumes 1960-70. This is the same cologne which the BN directory has listed as Russisch Leder (1967). Juchten is a German term, and synonymous for Russisch Leder (Russian leather). There was more than one Juchten in the middle of last century. 4711/Muelhens also had one.

    Ebay has a bottle every once in a while, and the one I bought last year wasn't expensive. I am glad to have this vintage cologne from Germany. But times have changed, and experiences with Cuiron, Peau d'Espagne, Knize, and other first rate leather fragrances have changed my preferences. The company in San Francisco may produce this, or another Juchten, under license.
    Last edited by narcus; 18th January 2008 at 02:17 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  5. #5

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    I've seen a few bottles pop up now and then in the market place...so keep your eye out....but you can actually call in and order it from the owner. Call Jacqueline Parfumerie in San Francisco.... 415-981-0858

    it's about 60 bucks for a 100ml bottle....

  6. #6

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    I bought this blind a few years ago from Jacqueline Perfumery in San Fran and found it truly nauseating. It has its fans and I was able to easily sell it on this board but I just don't get any of the notes. All I got was a very strong raw tobacco scent.
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  7. #7

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post
    The original Farina seems to have been discontinued or is dormant with Farina Gegenüber/ Germany. Kölnisch Juchten is a good one and it stands for a whole Era which probably ended with a quick growth of French masculine perfumes 1960-70. This is the same cologne which the BN directory has listed as Russisch Leder (1967). Juchten is a German term, and synonymous for Russisch Leder (Russian leather). There was more than one Juchten in the middle of last century. 4711/Muelhens also had one.

    Ebay has a bottle every once in a while, and the one I bought last year wasn't expensive. I am glad to have this vintage cologne from Germany. But times have changed, and experiences with Cuiron, Peau d'Espagne, Knize, and other first rate leather fragrances have changed my preferences. The company in San Francisco may produce this, or another Juchten, under license.
    I would like to find out more about this; Perfume-Smellin' Things thinks Russich Leder is a different formulation, and "Mr. Jacqueline" states so unequivocally.

    The Kölnisch Juchten sold at Jacqueline is marked as a product of Parfums Regence, made in Paris; whether Jacqueline has an interest in this company, I do not know.
    Last edited by zatarain; 20th January 2008 at 07:11 AM. Reason: clarity
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  8. #8

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    "This is the same cologne which the BN directory has listed as Russisch Leder (1967)" - After going over further details of it, I am afraid I cannot maintain this statement any longer!

    What I own is a bottle of "Farina Gegenüber - Russisch Leder - Eau de Cologne" .(Picture #2, Perfumesmellingthings review of August 15, 2006). I have nothing to compare it to but my own memory which dates back to my childhood. This is clearly a man's cologne, and it is quite possible that the (original) Farina Kölnisch Juchten was a ladies' perfume. I have a little of Russisch L. on my arm as I am writing this. It is a nice fragrance indeed, but I couldn't be as enthusiastic about it, as Columbina has been. A sentence like: "Without much ado it goes straight to the good stuff, i.e. The Animal. The blend of leather, musk and civet is sexy as all get out, in the perverse, unspeakable kind of way that Serge Lutens Muscs Koublai Khan or Lancôme Cuir are sexy.", makes me smile a little. I hope MKK has a lot more to offer when I finally get to wear it (wax sample so far). Fragrances of the past get a lot of praise often, particularly when only a few can test these praises. Nevertheless l recommend Russisch Leder to anybody who collects vintage perfumes, or loves leather fragrances. The Farina website (www.farina.eu / posters/ page 2, shows a cool poster from around 1980.
    [IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Eberhard/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG]

    I am glad that there is another picture shown, because it reveals a serious error: Farina - Dom zu Mailand - Kölnisch Juchten : http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot.com/2006/08/perfume-review-farina-gegenuber.html What we have here is not a falsification of a perfume, but a legal product of the umptiest Farina (a common Italian family name) using Milan's instead of Cologne's Cathedral as part of the brand name. What a farce! Such differences are easily overlooked by tourists or foreign shoppers. Even Columbina and her readers became victim of this (intended) deception. This is not an authentic perfume from the respectable house of Johann Maria Farina, now called Farina Gegenüber. It only looks like one.

    Unfortunately the internet is a breeding place for false information and rumors. I am not surprised that people come up with the idea that Juchten (the perfume, not the leather) dates back to the 16th century (it does not, and 20th century is more likely). There are no hints of Russisch or Juchten in their accounting documents from the 19th century). No perfume history has been documented better than that of Johann Maria Farina (and heirs), and a lot of it is accessible on German websites. Information on Farina (and 4711 !! ) at English language websites should best be verified unless you are a fan of fairy tales.

    Columbina on Kölnisch Juchten, Feb 28, 2006:


    http://perfumesmellinthings.blogspot...s-regence.html
    "Kölnisch Juchten
    is perhaps one of the most obscure scents I have ever had a pleasure to encounter. The story goes that it was first produced a couple of hundred years ago by Johann Maria Farina (or "Johann Maria Farina gegenüber dem Jülichs-platz"), the world’s oldest Eau de Cologne manufacturer in Cologne, established in 1709. At some point in time Kolnisch Juchten started to be produced by a company called Parfums Regence. In the States, it seems to be available exclusively at a small perfume boutique in San Francisco, allegedly owned by a moody proprietor, who, like the owner of the fragrance shop described in The Emperor of Scent, runs the store “according to the iconoclastic economic principle” that the perfumes are to be sold only if the owner likes the customers." - The text can be easily misunderstood. The Regence fragrance has nothing to do with any German Kölnisch Juchten. I couldn't find any link to Parfums Regence, France.

    Ebay offer Farina ‘Kölnisch Juchten

    Ebay offer 4711 ‚Juchten
    Last edited by narcus; 24th January 2008 at 08:06 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    Just tried Farina's Kölnisch Juchten this morning, and I must say, of all the Russian Leather type fragrances I've tried, I'd have to name this one the best.
    The top notes open with an copal-myrrh note, but the fragrance quickly changes into a complex leather with civet, patchouli, birch tar and possibly hints of castoreum, iris and something that lightens the blend ( a tiny bit of something like sweet orange? ) This is a rich, complex leather; the base notes remind me simultaneously of Givenchy Gentleman and Creed's Cuir de Russie.
    Now, does anyone know who sells this stuff? All I can find online are mentions of a rather unreliable sounding place in San Francisco.
    Wow, after reading the posts, I wonder...I bought a bottle of Kölnisch Juchten at the px in Ramstein AFB when I was in the service in the mid 80's. The bottle did not look anything like the one in this thread, it was a 150 ml splash Eau De Toilette with a cork and plastic stopper. From what I remember, the scent was a semi refined leather scent with something animalistic to it, perhaps the Civet. It had patchoulli, and what I could detect from memory- a bit of Orris.

    Galamb_Borong please let us know any more thoughts on this, if the cologne is what I remember it to be, I will be ordering a couple bottles
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  10. #10

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    Inspired by this thread, I ordered Kolnisch Juchten blind from Jaqueline Perfumery In San Francisco.

    I had absolutely no problem dealing with Andre, the owner. He was courteous, professional and promptly shipped my order. Price was $ 55.00 plus $ 8.00 shipping for a 100ml bottle ("the only size it comes in") - which I thought was reasonable.

    My bottle looks like this one posted earlier:



    With the lack of information surrounding the provenance of this fragrance, all I can say with any degree of certainty is that, in my opinion, Galamb_Borong's review of Farina's version of Kolnisch Juchten applies equally as well to the Parfums Regence version of Kolnisch Juchten that I have. The sillage and longevity are amazing - it has been almost eleven hours and it is still coming on strong!

    This has easily vaulted into position as one of the top five leathers in my collection!
    Last edited by TwoRoads; 5th February 2008 at 04:21 AM.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  11. #11

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    Funny you mentioned Juchten. After explaining to my German teacher last week that I was into "collecting fragrance" (could not think of a verb in German to explain that this obsession is more than collecting) and she mentioned this fragrance called Juchten that she used to like smelling on men in Germany. Funny how worlds collide sometimes.
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  12. #12

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    Quote Originally Posted by greendragon View Post
    Wow, after reading the posts, I wonder...I bought a bottle of Kölnisch Juchten at the px in Ramstein AFB when I was in the service in the mid 80's. The bottle did not look anything like the one in this thread, it was a 150 ml splash Eau De Toilette with a cork and plastic stopper. From what I remember, the scent was a semi refined leather scent with something animalistic to it, perhaps the Civet. It had patchoulli, and what I could detect from memory- a bit of Orris.

    Galamb_Borong please let us know any more thoughts on this, if the cologne is what I remember it to be, I will be ordering a couple bottles
    I haven't tried the new stuff – I ordered a sample from The Perfumed Court, which stocks the vintage juice. However, your description sounds like what I smelled.

  13. #13
    Dimitrios's Avatar
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    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    Another big thums up for this classic ...
    I got my bottle a few weeks ago & this one is recomended by me also .

  14. #14

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    Just for clarification:

    Russisch Leder =(Cuir de Russie) and Kölnisch Juchten (Juchten=German term for russian style, i.e. birch tar treated, very durable leather) are generic designations. Farina Gegenüber Russisch Leder was in production until recently, Farina Gegenüber Kölnisch Juchten has been discontinued for quite some time. As narcus pointed out, there are numerous pseudo-Farinas out there.
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  15. #15

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    Quote Originally Posted by Galamb_Borong View Post
    Just tried Farina's Kölnisch Juchten this morning, and I must say, of all the Russian Leather type fragrances I've tried, I'd have to name this one the best.
    The top notes open with an copal-myrrh note, but the fragrance quickly changes into a complex leather with civet, patchouli, birch tar and possibly hints of castoreum, iris and something that lightens the blend ( a tiny bit of something like sweet orange? ) This is a rich, complex leather; the base notes remind me simultaneously of Givenchy Gentleman and Creed's Cuir de Russie.
    Now, does anyone know who sells this stuff? All I can find online are mentions of a rather unreliable sounding place in San Francisco.
    Wow, that sounds totally like my type of fragrance!! I've got to try it out!
    Check out my blog Pour Monsieur, a no-nonsense guide to men's fragrances:
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  16. #16
    Mudassir's Avatar
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    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    Based on the information I have, Kolnisch Juchten was discontinued decades ago. Good luck finding it :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by shamu1 View Post
    Wow, that sounds totally like my type of fragrance!! I've got to try it out!
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  17. #17
    Dimitrios's Avatar
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    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    Well there is a store in San Francisco selling counterfeits that smell out of this world !! and they are identical to the picture two roads uploaded !

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  18. #18

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    Quote Originally Posted by Mudassir View Post
    Based on the information I have, Kolnisch Juchten was discontinued decades ago. Good luck finding it :-)
    Quote Originally Posted by Dimitrios View Post
    Well there is a store in San Francisco selling counterfeits that smell out of this world !! and they are identical to the picture two roads uploaded !
    I have two Kolnisch Juchtens.

    One is produced currently by Parfums Regence. It seems to be exclusively available at Jaqueline Perfumery in San Francisco.

    The other is by Johann Maria Farina gegenüber dem Jülichs-platz. I believe this is the orignal Kolnisch Juchten and it has been discontinued for years.

    Whether the Parfums Regence fragrance uses the original formula I cannot tell with any certainty.

    I can say that they are definitely related. The differences are slight and may be due to the age of the vintage juchten.

    That being said, I prefer the Parfums Regence.
    Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood and looked down one as far as I could to where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, ...... I shall be telling this with a sigh somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -- I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference. - Robert Frost

  19. #19

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    Thanks to the kindness of a very generous BNer I got to try this the day before yesterday.

    It is strong. Resilient. Demanding.

    I thoroughly enjoyed it. The drydown is very similar to the dry down from L'Eau Trois. A cold and paralyzing incense.

    for swap/sale:





  20. #20

    Default Re: Kölnisch Juchten: a wonderful Cuir de Russie

    I'm interested in testing and, eventually, owning this scent too, but it seems virtually non-shippable in Europe, at least outside the borders of Germany.

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