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  1. #1

    Default Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    Etro to me is a tragic line. They make good perfumes, but for each one some other house seems to have a superior alternative.

    Vetiver - very good, but Villoresi is so much better.
    Via Verri - a fine rose scent, but can't match Crown Maréchale or Parfum Sacré.
    Sandalo - not too bad, a bit plasticky. Floris, Villoresi and Creed are two notches above.
    Messe de Minuit - a sweet incense, perhaps their most interesting and idiosyncratic one, but it's just not as good or wearable as the perfect Hotel Costes (the CdG line goes in a different direction, brilliant in its own way).
    Patchouli - now this one I like, it's good, though safe. Villoresi is more interesting, but I find it unwearable. Montale Patchouli Leaves has more going on, but it's as much amber as patchouli. Etro's just doesn't make me as weak-kneed as SL Borneo 1834 though.

    I invite you to corroborate or challenge my hypothesis
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  2. #2

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    Etro to me is a tragic line. They make good perfumes, but for each one some other house seems to have a superior alternative.

    Vetiver - very good, but Villoresi is so much better.
    Via Verri - a fine rose scent, but can't match Crown Maréchale or Parfum Sacré.
    Sandalo - not too bad, a bit plasticky. Floris, Villoresi and Creed are two notches above.
    Messe de Minuit - a sweet incense, perhaps their most interesting and idiosyncratic one, but it's just not as good or wearable as the perfect Hotel Costes (the CdG line goes in a different direction, brilliant in its own way).
    Patchouli - now this one I like, it's good, though safe. Villoresi is more interesting, but I find it unwearable. Montale Patchouli Leaves has more going on, but it's as much amber as patchouli. Etro's just doesn't make me as weak-kneed as SL Borneo 1834 though.

    I invite you to corroborate or challenge my hypothesis
    Wow, tragic? I disagree. The accomplishment of Messe de Minuit alone keeps Etro from the wicked depths of tragedy! This divine creation adds a human element which CdG, Black Cashmere and so many other "church scents" lack, making most of them sterile and suffocating. MdM is like ducking into a church in Naples in August, the facade is covered in scaffolding, the candles are burning, the un-restored Caravaggio is dimly lit over the altar and a widow is saying her rosary in the 10th row of pews. Oh, the humanity!
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 29th January 2008 at 03:51 PM.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ruggles View Post
    ...MdM is like ducking into a church in Naples in August, the facade is covered in scaffolding, the candles are burning, the un-restored Caravaggio is dimly lit over the altar and a widow is saying her rosary in the 10th row of pews. Oh, the humanity!
    You just created a quite familiar scene, and except for the Caravaggio I wouldn't even have to go that far south. I've just run out of my Comme de... Avignon, and am glad to have Messe de Minuit to resort to. Fresh olibanum, like in Tauers IE is wonderful too, but I like the darker incense perfumes better. - Hotel Costes, hm? I have noted that down!
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    Great observation. The house is tragic in another sense for me, because a local store carried the whole line for a while, but only after I bought two, Vetiver and MdM, dropped it. I never had a chance to work with Patchouli, Sandalo, Palais Jamais, Etra, or Magot.

    I don't entirely agree that LV's Vetiver trumps Etro's. I think there's a woody, rooty purity to the Etro that LV makes too busy. Messe de Minuit is cold and off putting for me, although I love the scent, where all, and I mean all, the other incense scents I've smelled are warm and fireplace charming. I value the cold twist that MdM puts on this material.
    --Chris
    That girl, that bottle, that mattress and me.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    Just curious: What would you say matches or tops Shaal Nur? Palais Jamais? Royal Pavilion?
    Yr good bud,

    JaimeB

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  6. #6

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    My two cents: Palais Jamais is my favorite from Etro, a wonderful bitter tea scent, a little medicinal, perhaps, but in a bracing way. Any house that puts out something that good deserves my respect.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    Well, I've only tried Etro's Dianthus... and Villoresi's Garofano did the same thing, but better, and DSH's Oeillets Rouge did it better still.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    Etro to me is a tragic line. They make good perfumes, but for each one some other house seems to have a superior alternative.

    Vetiver - very good, but Villoresi is so much better.
    Via Verri - a fine rose scent, but can't match Crown Maréchale or Parfum Sacré.
    Sandalo - not too bad, a bit plasticky. Floris, Villoresi and Creed are two notches above.
    Messe de Minuit - a sweet incense, perhaps their most interesting and idiosyncratic one, but it's just not as good or wearable as the perfect Hotel Costes (the CdG line goes in a different direction, brilliant in its own way).
    Patchouli - now this one I like, it's good, though safe. Villoresi is more interesting, but I find it unwearable. Montale Patchouli Leaves has more going on, but it's as much amber as patchouli. Etro's just doesn't make me as weak-kneed as SL Borneo 1834 though.

    I invite you to corroborate or challenge my hypothesis
    I surmise Etro is merely following the pack and making scents based off of the superior alternatives.
    Green Dragon

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  9. #9
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    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    I must agree with Ruggles - I do not think there is a match to Messe de Minuit (which IMO is Etro's finest scent). I am coincidentally receiving a sample of Costes soon, but from what I remember of sampling it a while ago, Costes is an altogether different incense beast than MdM. The 'mildew' note in MdM is quite unique.

    In addition, I have not smelled anything remotely like Etro's Lemon Sorbet - has anyone else? I've described it as grilled lemon slices with a dash of pepper. Seriously. It's really different smelling and slightly...subversive in a citrus-y way.
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 29th January 2008 at 10:07 PM.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    Except for MdeM I agree with Good Life on this to a certain extent. For a long time I never tried any Etro fragrances, because I thought there were other options that were just better. MdeM is unique but generally I think it belongs more in a history of fragrances museum than on a person. "Say, what should I wear to work and on my date tonight? I know, how about some incense and mildew, that's the ticket!"

  11. #11

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    I must agree with Ruggles - I do not think there is a match to Messe de Minuit (which IMO is Etro's finest scent). I am coincidentally receiving a sample of Costes soon, but from what I remember of sampling it a while ago, Costes is an altogether different incense beast than MdM. The 'mildew' note in MdM is quite unique.

    In addition, I have not smelled anything remotely like Etro's Lemon Sorbet - has anyone else? I've described it as grilled lemon slices with a dash of pepper. Seriously. It's really different smelling and slightly...subversive in a citrus-y way.
    Lemon Sorbet is fun, even better as a shower gel! Perhaps Etro is the regular guy's Comme des Garcons?
    Costes to me, is very much a comfort scent, sort of a rich, room spray.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    Quote Originally Posted by the_good_life View Post
    They make good perfumes, but for each one some other house seems to have a superior alternative.
    I don't think there's anything even remotely like Messe de Minuit in any other house's selection.

    Ditto for Palais Jamais, Magot and Lemon Sorbet.

    I much prefer Etro Vetiver to LV's*, and imo their Patchouli comes second only to Mazzolari's.


    *My other favourite Vetivers - AG and TDC - are a totally different type of vetiver scents: not so smoky and murky, but more sea-salty.
    --------------------------------------
    What to me makes Etro so unique, is their "house-smell": all their scents have a touch of a museum or an archive in them. Love it!
    Last edited by tigrushka; 30th January 2008 at 05:32 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    "Wovon man nicht lesen kann, darüber muss man schreiben."

  13. #13

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    Quote Originally Posted by tigrushka View Post
    What to me makes Etro so unique, is their "house-smell": all their scents have a touch of a museum or an archive in them. Love it!
    Having been to their Milan fashion shows and also being very familiar with their design philosophy, I have to say you've really "nailed" it.
    Last edited by Kevin Guyer; 30th January 2008 at 05:51 AM.

  14. #14

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    I think Etro falls in the "Floris et al" camp, i.e., quality houses which might have one or two star fragrances but have a catalog full of decent but non-earthshaking fragrances. To be fair, almost every house has their own rendition of a vetiver, rose, citrus, and other soliflores in their catalog and if you start off with a particular house and then encounter a similar fragrance theme from another house you won't be much convinced to switch sides.

    Much also has to do with word of mouth and Etro doesn't get enough. The mildew wonder that is MdeM and contributions like Shaal Nuur and Palais Jamais indicate that Etro can hang with the big boys.

    I would apply the word tragic to the disintegration of the house of Crown and the proliferation of "exclusive lines" at the famous houses. Quality once found in standard catalog releases now just reserved for the rich - now thats tragic.
    -

  15. #15

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    Quote Originally Posted by JaimeB View Post
    Just curious: What would you say matches or tops Shaal Nur? Palais Jamais? Royal Pavilion?
    I found Shaal Nur unique, and bottleworthy when I tested it a month ago, but I am in no rush. The whole line is 'different' and I like it for that. Also, I am happy to have found another Italian perfume house which seems to be authentic, even though I do not really know who their perfumers are. In this class of fragrances it's not a question of better or worse to me.There are only nuances that serve a momentary preference, for MdM today, and Avignon or Passage dE another.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    I arrived late but I see my fellow kep high the flag of the magnifiscent Palais Jamais (thx Tigs, Narcus and others )

  17. #17

    Default Re: Is Etro a tragic perfume house?

    Quote Originally Posted by Magnifiscent View Post
    I arrived late but I see my fellow kep high the flag of the magnifiscent Palais Jamais (thx Tigs, Narcus and others )
    Thanks and welcome, mate ! I had been hoping for you to perhaps unveil one or two secrets concerning their magnificent perfumers
    Last edited by narcus; 30th January 2008 at 09:33 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi è un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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