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  1. #31
    DeeOlive's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! >> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 1, 2008 >> Chypre

    Couldn't log in today but spent the day in the wonderful Un Histoire de Chypre - twins with ComDiva.
    Though this isn't by a female nose - I wore it in honor of the ladies here who initiated me in my first ever bottle split

    :wave::wave:
    Last edited by DeeOlive; 2nd March 2008 at 03:02 AM.
    The fragrance of flowers spreads only in the direction of the wind. But the goodness of a person spreads in all directions.
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  2. #32
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    Default Re: All Invited! >> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 1, 2008 >> Chypre

    I wore Mitsouko today for Chypre day. It was my second time to give it a try, my first wearing being less than successful. And today was about the same ... Mitsouko does not love my skin.

    I saw so many of you wearing Bandit today, and I wish I would have worn it also. Bandit is 100 times better on my skin than Mitsouko. I guess I don't think of Bandit right away when thinking of Chypres. I admit to being more than a little confused by this Chypre classification. I mean, it's easy when oakmoss is listed in the notes, but it gets a bit vague when oakmoss is not listed.

    That is one of the reasons I enjoy the Sniff n Speak days so much. It allows me to stretch a little and wear something I normally wouldn't wear. It allows me to learn a little more about the different classifications. It allows me to read other's views and thoughts about some fragrances I'm not familar with.

    Back to Mitsouko. I admire and respect Mitsouko, even if I don't like it much.
    I've trademarked the color bleu

  3. #33
    Basenotes Institution

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    Default Re: All Invited! >> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 1, 2008 >> Chypre

    Here is a Wolf in Chypre Clothing reporting: Miss Balmain for me today -- female name and light and fresh roses all on the background of Balmanesque "erasers" so perfect for a nice first day of calendar spring.

    Bandit refuses to work for me, I promise I tried!

  4. #34

    Default Re: All Invited! >> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 1, 2008 >> Chypre

    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    Here is a Wolf in Chypre Clothing reporting: Miss Balmain for me today -- female name and light and fresh roses all on the background of Balmanesque "erasers" so perfect for a nice first day of calendar spring.

    Bandit refuses to work for me, I promise I tried!
    Me neither.

    Sleeping in Trussardi as a finale. I like everything about this EXCEPT the dreadful bottle!
    Currently wearing: Bluebell by Penhaligon's

  5. #35

    Default Re: All Invited! >> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 1, 2008 >> Chypre

    Couldn't log in yesterday - so reporting this morning.

    Started the day in Dior - Dioressence (floral chypre).
    Green violet powder. Fairly high sillage for the first hour or so. Begins to develop that hint of musk as the sillage calms (about 90 minutes or so). Then spice and orange notes - the orange appears as a tart note. Get a bit of “fizziness” 2 hours in (the aldehydes?) mixed with the main green floral powdery note. Becomes closer wearing. At 5 hours - a spicy benzoin vanilla. Very pretty. Lasting much longer this time. Showered after 6 hours.

    Spent the rest of the day in Guerlain - Mitsouko (decided to use this as my benchmark)
    Get a sweetish citrus (like orange oil) blast before I get the green floral powder. Then I start picking up a peach/vanilla sillage running through this. The scent alternates between the green floral powder and the peach/vanilla for an hour - but only on the sillage. If you sniff your wrist - it’s the dusty green floral powder. A spice note appears among the peach/vanilla about 30 minutes in and that note begins to appear more often. If you sniff your wrist - you get lotion and the dusty green powder (with a much stronger powder note). Very interesting how different this scent is up close vs. from a distance. Up close - BF deemed it “weird”. More admiringly rather than “please don’t wear that again.” Becomes the pretty vanilla/musky drydown in 4 hours. Still going pretty strong at 8 hours this wearing and finally gone the next morning.

    From what I was able to sniff - the similarity between the two is the green dusty note that dominates the top and heart of the scent. The Dioressence is woven with violets. The Mitsouko is woven with fruit and vanilla.

    I appreciate both of them, though I'll admit it may take me awhile (like, a few more decades) to really feel at home in Chypres. All of them I have attempted have worn me rather than the other way around. Like I'm playing "dress up". Still, dress up is fun every once in awhile....
    Last edited by sakecat22; 2nd March 2008 at 12:11 PM.
    Sakecat's Scent Project
    "Wardrobe" and Reviews of everything I've tried to date. Please come visit and let me know what you think.

  6. #36

    Vivek's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! >> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 1, 2008 >> Chypre

    Guerlain Mitsouko - Hmm, wanted to wear this for SnS too, so did it today, I'm wearing the Parfum, I get a bit of citrus and slight bergamot, with no aldehydes for about 20 minutes, after this, I get the soft green florals coming through, along with a fair helping of clove which slightly overpowers. I'm unaware of the traditional smell of Oakmoss, but the base still is still slightly remenicsent of a Peachy-Clove, along with a helping of what I presume to be oakmoss, and a bit of dry musty benzoin. I love it. I think because I have an oldish formation of the Parfum, the top notes have mainly worn off, as I don't get the lemon and aldehyde combo that I think would have been fantastic. Thankfully, the peach isn't too prominent on me either!

  7. #37
    Lean in closer, dear
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    Default Re: All Invited! >> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 1, 2008 >> Chypre

    First off, it makes me so happy to see lievje and her stacked books avatar--and in a chypre, too!
    Neroli99, welcome. BIG WELCOME. You're riding a good wave on your first SnS.
    Quote Originally Posted by Twolf View Post
    Here is a Wolf in Chypre Clothing reporting: Miss Balmain for me today -- female name and light and fresh roses all on the background of Balmanesque "erasers" so perfect for a nice first day of calendar spring.
    Scent twin with my favorite punning wolf. I wore (past tense, since BN was offline yester) Miss Balmain, and I think it may be the last time I spray it at me. I swoon now, a day later, smelling yesterday's shirt, and that's the only way I'm really happy with MB. Her top notes are a bit Hindenburg for me--big, floaty, almost-combustible dirigable aldehyde gas. The tethers, the basenotes, anchoring MB are supreme.
    PERFUMER: Germaine Cellier
    Top Notes: Gardenia, coriander, citrus, aldehydes
    Heart Notes: Jasmine, rose, carnation, narcissus, orris, jonquil
    Base Notes: Castoreum, patchouli, oakmoss, leather, vetiver, amber

    Copyright-free image. I think it's okay to link???
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

  8. #38
    Basenotes Institution
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    Default Re: All Invited! >> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 1, 2008 >> Chypre

    So, I finished my sample of Bandit yesterday, for SnS. My thoughts on this classic chypre:

    - Most chypres have WAY too much aldehydes for my nose - so does Bandit, but the way that they're blended with the top notes (galbanum) and the leather makes them fade into the background just perfectly and allows me to enjoy this fragrance. I must admit that the first two or three minutes at the beginning of application are not my favorite, but it seems that as it sits on my skin and warms up, the scent starts to magically transform itself
    - The leather note in Bandit is sharp. For this reason, I enjoy this fragrance during the day and have worn it twice in the hot summer sun and enjoyed it immensely. I don't know if I could say the same for Tabac Blond and/or Mitsuoko, which to me are much darker and scents that blossom indoors.
    - I like Bandit because it's florals (rose, tuberose, ylang ylang) are 'butched' up and don't carry too much sillage on my skin
    - I now realize that the leather chypres are my favorite category of chypres. Beautiful, but strong (almost brutal) also.

    Found this cool ad for the perfume online:

    Last edited by mikeperez23; 2nd March 2008 at 06:42 PM.
    Currently wearing: Shalimar by Guerlain

  9. #39
    Olfacta's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! >> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 1, 2008 >> Chypre

    Did somebody say Jean-Louis Scherrer EDT? I've worn it for years, usually in summer. I haven't read anything about it except someone who wrote that it smelled like the inside of an old lady's purse (ouch!) It comes up bitter/spicy at first and then softens beautifully. I think there is a top note of cinnamon. I didn't know it was a chypre (I am somewhat new to the analytical side of this) until now.

  10. #40
    Dulci's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! >> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 1, 2008 >> Chypre

    Sorry I'm late.

    Saturday I wore Patou Colony, a fruity chypre. We had a warm spell that day, the temps were in the 80s.

    In Jan Moran's Fab Fragrances II, she says

    top notes - pineapple, bergamot;
    heart notes - ylang-ylang, iris, carnation, opopanax;
    base notes - oakmoss, leather, musk, vetiver, vanilla.

    Nigel Grooms New Perfume Handbook has a slightly different pyramid, he says

    top notes - pineapple, ylang-ylang;
    middle notes - iris, oakmoss, carnation, opopanax, vetiver;
    base notes - leather, castoreum, musk.

    The pineapple usually gets all the press, but I don't think it is a juicy or edible pineapple exactly. It reminds me of the thick green leaves and rind ground underfoot. The oakmoss/animalic base is what attracts me most...

  11. #41

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    Talking Re: All Invited! >> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 1, 2008 >> Chypre

    31 rue Cambon.

    31 rue Cambon.

    31 rue Cambon.

    In tiring decades of nothing special, 31 rue Cambon dawns a new day for this classification.

    For all of his otherwise forgettable work, Jacques Polge put the sun back in the parfumerie horizon with this masterwork.

    For any self-respecting chypre lover, 31 rue Cambon, currently only available in EDT, steers a new course.

    Take it.

  12. #42
    Lean in closer, dear
    Quarry's Avatar
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    Default Re: All Invited! >> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, March 1, 2008 >> Chypre


    Welcome, BeauSoleil!!
    Wonderful post and beautiful, sunny name.

    --------------------------------------
    Oh, and welcome, PB101!

    Always overjoyed to see a new face.

    Last edited by Quarry; 4th March 2008 at 12:16 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    In a world where 6 million people are added each month, every landscape matters.

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