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  1. #1

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Starting today I will try and post links to the latest issues of Luca Turin's articles in Neue Zürcher Zeitung / Folio magazine / Column Duftnote (fragrance note) on this forum. There are normally twelve artcles per year, and the series has been running since 2003. Time permitting, I plan to post annual surveys of links later on. I have been publishing older links on the main forum before. Most of them can be found in this thread

    Biography Dr. Luca Turin: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luca_Turin..


    Duftnote March 3, 2008


    Do-it-yourself-Parfum

    Who would have thought that? Turin on natural perfumery and www.profumo.it !
    congrats BN member 'profumo', aka Dominique Dubrana



    Luca Turin in NZZ Folio – February 6, 2008


    Cinq Bis

    Molineux' No. 5, the other number five ..

    ***
    Luca Turin in NZZ Folio – January 7, 2008

    Nombre Noir

    "…He collects vintage perfumes on eBay-not with the sporadic excitement of the beginner
    or the jaded lust of the rich expert, not because they are rare, not because of the bottles, but
    because the genie they imprison has the power to make the air he breathes more beautiful......"

    ***
    reserved for survey

    Last edited by narcus; 3rd March 2008 at 02:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  2. #2
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    A very exciting online bespoke perfume service from Profumo and Luca gives it a thumbs up as well! Congrats to Dominique and AbdusSalaam Attar!
    Last edited by zztopp; 3rd March 2008 at 09:14 AM.
    -

  3. #3

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008


    NZZ Folio Duftnote - previous 'Fragrance Notes'

    January-07 Perfume's Perfumes strange, powerful synthetics & top-flight naturals.


    February-07 Chanel Six A Modern Great Manner

    March-07 The One (CK) Frozen time - stay young forever! Calvin Klein1


    April-07 Due Credit On Guerlain reformulations (3)

    May-07 Reviewer Heaven Guerlain, Chanel 5- the different versions

    June-07 Not even wrong I finally saw 'Perfume' yesterday

    July-07 Clean The trend to smell clean

    August-07 Orange Free State État Libre d'Orange

    September-07 Calone a wispering chemical 'like a a rumor'

    October-07 Eminences Grises Effect materials

    November-07 Dreamjob Perfumer

    December-07 Amouage Green Mountain rose & where half the world’s ambergris lands
    * * *

    ( I intended to simply transfer my data table in Excel format but it didn't work, sorry! / narcus )
    Last edited by narcus; 6th May 2008 at 07:10 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Oh, Dominique, that`s just GREAT!!!
    Congratulations!

    And thanks to Narcus for the informative thread
    Vetiver The Great!!!

  5. #5

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008




    Duftnote April 7, 2008


    Bath Salts

    Bath salts are a peculiar thing: they dissolve in a cloud of tiny bubbles, make the bath water cloudy,
    colored and fragrant, and produce no foam. They also tend to leave a bit of grit at the bottom of the tub

    as a reminder that there is no such thing as a perfectly comfortable moment, barring the use of certain opiates.




    _____________________________________________
    Biography Dr. Luca Turin: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luca_Turin..
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    As always, thanks Narcus.
    How I wish Turin would drop his chemistry and concentrate on writing full time.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Hilarious - and touching too. I will never look at bath salts the same way again. Thanks Narcus, as always.

  8. #8

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    there is no such thing as a perfectly comfortable moment, barring the use of certain opiates.
    Interesting, I see that he has a sophisticated understanding of opiates.
    All these moments will be lost in time, like tears in rain.

  9. #9

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post



    Duftnote April 7, 2008


    Bath Salts

    Bath salts are a peculiar thing: they dissolve in a cloud of tiny bubbles, make the bath water cloudy,
    colored and fragrant, and produce no foam. They also tend to leave a bit of grit at the bottom of the tub

    as a reminder that there is no such thing as a perfectly comfortable moment, barring the use of certain opiates.




    _____________________________________________
    Biography Dr. Luca Turin: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luca_Turin..

    Ay! that makes me now want to go soak in my newly aquired bath salts from Basin in Downtown Disney. It also reminds me to go by and see my friend at the local bookstore tonight after bowling. I believe I shall be purchasing Mr. Turin's book this evening... :-)
    ~*~*~*~*~
    One by one the lava lamps are stealing my sanity...

  10. #10

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Duftnote May 5, 2008


    Cut and Paste


    "Some years ago, when internet translation tools first appeared, I used to play a little game by taking a piece of text and having Babelfish translate it back and forth from, say, French to English twenty or thirty times. I was interested to see whether it would converge to a stable text, slowly drift like chinese whispers or explode into experimental literature...."


    * * * * *

    This is the fifth year of Scent Notes / Duftnote, Turin's first column, was published in Folio, the monthly magazine of Neue Zürcher Zeitung, in August 2003, and for years to come there were no English text versions available. Its title: Blue Stratos. Although I still do not know what this one smells like (it never made it to our shops) I was immediately caught by this Italian who could enumerate my first loves, as if they were automobiles. Little did I know then about Luca Turin, and little about myself. Had somebody told me that one day I would be in mourning about the death of a perfume (Caron's), I would have simply laughed out loud! But the day has come.

    More Duftnoten (up to 2007) can be found in this thread
    or directly on the nzz.ch website.

    Last edited by narcus; 7th May 2008 at 05:39 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Thanks - as always narcus.

    I feel like running out to the local drugstore here in the US, buying some Blue Stratos, and shipping it off to you in Switzerland! I had no idea it was the topic of Turin's first post (although I did know it was a fav of his).
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 6th May 2008 at 03:14 AM.
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  12. #12
    Dependent pluran's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Great stuff.
    Last edited by pluran; 7th May 2008 at 06:10 AM.

  13. #13

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Thanks - as always narcus.

    I feel like running out to the local drugstore here in the US, buying some Blue Stratos, and shipping it off to you in Switzerland! I had no idea it was the topic of Turin's first post (although I did know it was a fav of his).
    How sweet of you, Mike! I guess I could somehow have gotten it, had I really wanted to, at least after discovering Basenotes in 2004! But some myths are greater than the reality, and I prefer to keep on dreaming.
    I am curious if Dr. Weber of NZZ - Luca likes to call him a friend outside Folio - will arrange something special for Luca and this fifth anniversary. I would love to meet Turins translator for the German version. He sometimes even polishes text while translating it. For some of my friends I hope there will be a German translation of the Guide too.
    Last edited by narcus; 6th May 2008 at 07:08 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  14. #14

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Narcus!

    Sweetheart!

    I've been on BN for a whole year and a half and only JUST discovered this delightful thread and your generosity in posting it for us. I don't always agree with Dr. Turin but I absolutely ADORE his writing and he is so laugh-out-loud-funny! ( "I consider made-to-measure perfumes as silly as having a novel written specially for you, and find most all-natural perfumes invertebrate."...."He grows into an adolescent so gifted he replicates a complex perfume in thirty seconds merely by picking out its ingredients in stoppered bottles and mixing them in the right proportions. Surprisingly, he then asks the owner of the bottles to train him as a perfumer, like the Archangel Gabriel applying for fencing lessons.")

    Many MANY thanks!!
    "The world is ruled by letting things take their course. It cannot be ruled by interfering." Lao Tze

  15. #15

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    That's been a real heart warmer, thank you very much, Tao-Lady !
    I plan to make more of the older articles available by a few clicks only.
    So many things in Perfume:The Guide are rooted in these Scent Notes / Duftoten,
    and often they are dealt with in more detail there. Creating a link between perfumes
    reviewed and those sixty articles is what I shall be working on next. I want this for
    myself, and once it's finished, I hope that a few others may find that useful, too.
    NZZ has no objections, and I hope our new community member, Luca Turin
    will tell me if he objects to what I am doing.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  16. #16

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Duftnote June 2, 2008


    Skin Physics


    Why your body chemistry means nothing, and more... !
    Additional answers to popular questions in radio interviews .


    * * * * *


    This is the fifth year of Scent Notes / Duftnote

    More essays (up to 2007) can be found in this thread
    or directly on the nzz.ch website.

    Last edited by narcus; 2nd June 2008 at 03:09 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Thanks narcus.

    When I listened to Turin/Sanchez on those morning radio shows, I somehow sensed his frustration at the questions about skin chemistry. He would sometimes pause and sigh a bit right after the question was asked...perhaps thinking, 'How the HELL do I answer this question properly in a short 1 minute reply', which is basically all that a radio station allows. Turin so masterfully explains intricate scientific facts, yet in reality (atleast here in the US) most people could care less about the science and want to know more about the other more, mindless stuff. Kind of sad, when you think about it.

    Which is primarily why Basenotes is such a wonderful resource for me.
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Narcus, you're a hero for putting this up every month.
    Merci.
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729

  19. #19

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Thanks narcus.

    When I listened to Turin/Sanchez on those morning radio shows, I somehow sensed his frustration at the questions about skin chemistry. He would sometimes pause and sigh a bit right after the question was asked...
    I only saw one of those, and I felt a little sorry for him - he looked quite tired then. Only Tania was as bright and cheerful as the interviewer. And she gave most of the answers, too. It was interesting to revive some of these moments with his thoughts fed in now.
    Last edited by narcus; 2nd June 2008 at 08:52 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    When I listened to Turin/Sanchez on those morning radio shows, I somehow sensed his frustration at the questions about skin chemistry. He would sometimes pause and sigh a bit right after the question was asked...perhaps thinking, 'How the HELL do I answer this question properly in a short 1 minute reply', ...
    It's very difficult for the general public to accept the fact that many biological/chemical/physical mechanisms are extraordinarily complicated. Turin, as a PhD, does a fine job of painting a picture with broad strokes for the general public, but some things just cannot be explained in only 1 minute. And some 1 minute explanations require PhD-level domain knowledge to understand.
    Last edited by Astaroth; 2nd June 2008 at 11:05 PM.

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    ... yet in reality (at least here in the US) most people could care less about the science and want to know more about the other more, mindless stuff. Kind of sad, when you think about it.
    I think people want to know enough science to have a general idea and an occasional "ah ha ..." moment when they think about something. I think that's fine. People have lives to lead, children to raise, etc. It's the job of scientists to make it so people don't have to know all about the complicated details, and to occasionally fill in general knowledge gaps.

    I'll agree, however, that it is disturbing that people who are adept at science are often vilified in the United States. This does not seem to be as much the case in other parts of the world (e.g. India, Asia, Eastern Europe, etc). That aspect of American culture is ultimately going to hurt us, badly.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Quote Originally Posted by Astaroth View Post
    people who are adept at science are often vilified in the United States.
    Good grief! Really?
    Why?

    I just can't get my head around that.
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729

  23. #23

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Very nice series!
    Wanted: a cap of Bvlgari Thé Vert

    Wanted: L' Artisan Timbuktu or Fragonard Concerto

    Feel free to visit Polderposh - a young up & coming Dutch fragrance blog!

  24. #24

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008



    Duftnote July 7, 2008


    Caravelle


    Recently, while perusing an oddly melancholy book titled "Classic Early Airliners 1958-1979," full of slightly
    faded, bluish photographs of long-scrapped aircraft parked in front of long-demolished airport terminals,
    my eye fell on one particular Air France Caravelle, F-BHRV. It was named "Provence," first flew in 1960
    and was melted down in 1980....



    * * * * *





    This is the fifth year of Scent Notes / Duftnote

    More essays (up to 2007) can be found in this thread
    or directly on the nzz.ch website.

    Last edited by narcus; 7th July 2008 at 08:12 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  25. #25

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Thanks Narcus. I feel like I have my turin back. Beautiful stuff after recent disappointments. Enough said.
    Last edited by hirch_duckfinder; 7th July 2008 at 10:16 PM.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Just lovely - thanks narcus.

    I often yearn to smell 'impossible smells' like Turin (the smell of my old house where I grew up, the smell of my kindergarten classroom when I was a child, etc...).
    "All problems are illusions of the mind."

    -- Eckhart Tolle

  27. #27

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Just lovely - thanks narcus.

    I often yearn to smell 'impossible smells' like Turin (the smell of my old house where I grew up, the smell of my kindergarten classroom when I was a child, etc...).
    schools: the smell of the sponge to wipe the blackboard was quite bad - like sours milk ! That's one of those experiences I can do without. Or those wooden cabins in camps, used as toilets... . What cows and horses leave behind in the open air is nice though. (Swissair!) Turin should have mentioned it. Swissair, by the way, always had a nice classical cologne in their wash rooms (tourist class, mind you. I once stole a bottle.Maybe Givaudan were behind that one.)

    @
    Hirch Duckfinder: you said it alll!

    Strangely enough, I myself have come to terms with the guide now. Even though that's next to impossible, try to read a few reviews as not written for you but someone who has an interest in perfume, but doesn't know the least thing about it. Suppose he/she doesn't even know perfume blogs exist, is occasionally impressed by perfume ads, and very confused when he approaches counters and shelves in department stores, and listens to sales assistants. If such a person starts out by sampling five-star perfumes selected from the Guide, and if he has a fine nose he will certainly not be led to waste his money. He will usually find that the guide is way more specific than any sales person, or says the opposite of what he heard in the store. Contrasting opinions are better than just sales talk. What other book about perfumes has a similar function as a consumer magazine?
    Last edited by narcus; 8th July 2008 at 09:10 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  28. #28

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    It's First Monday again, and I almost forgot:


    Duftnote August 2008


    Jasmin et Cigarette


    "Now it is gone, we can see that smoke was the speech of smell, exhaled with every word. It was the olfactory equivalent of a group conversation which you could choose to listen to or treat as noise. It said you were in company, and could speak (or wear perfume) frankly to someone next to you without being overheard. Walk into a pub these days and the clear air feels oddly silent. Any smell of food or fragrance stands naked and precise, like a medical photograph. . . . "

    By Luca Turin


    (maybe I'll beautify it later)
    Last edited by narcus; 2nd September 2008 at 05:02 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    It's nice to see that Turin gives props to Maisondieu's Jasmin et Cigarette. I would love to hear from Turin if he's sniffed Scent One: Hinoki by CdG x Monocle and if so what he thinks about it (another Maisondieu creation).
    Last edited by mikeperez23; 6th August 2008 at 02:41 AM.

  30. #30

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Welcome back!
    I hope you had a good holiday.
    I thought it's funny how he describes perfumers in the streets now, smoking while testing in the open air. When did he stop smoking, I wonder, and did he stop at all?
    In Paris and Nizza nothing much has changed perfumers habits, I am sure!

    (Little restaurants in Germany are now permitted to lift the ban on smokers, if the restaurant is too small to provide a comfort zone for non-smokers.)
    Last edited by narcus; 1st September 2008 at 04:30 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

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