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  1. #31

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Thanks so much for the link to the most recent NZZ Folio piece, Narcus. I love, and think I believe, what he says about the connection between perceiving beauty and the act of having to filter out or reach through something that obscures. Like perfume through smoke, music through conversation. Nice piece. As, I suppose, 'twere.

  2. #32

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008


    It's first Monday again:



    Duftnote September 1, 2008


    Two Stinks

    another tale by Luca Turin



    .....The intelligence of octopus is not widely appreciated, partly because they have little chance
    to display it when diced in a seafood salad, partly because we tend to think of invertebrates
    as lower forms of life. But think they do, astonishingly well when in pristine shape.

    Professor Young
    used to take out chunks of their brains to figure out which did what.....


    Last edited by narcus; 2nd September 2008 at 05:05 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  3. #33

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Thank you so much, Narcus

    I adore Luca Turin's irreverence; he is an unfailingly good read.

    And his knowledge of all aspects of the industry is peerless.

  4. #34
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    I remember the 'dead octopus' smell that Turin has mentioned before. I had no idea he was so 'hands on' working with live ones, in his former life.

    Thanks Narcus, as always.
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

    -- Eckhart Tolle
    Currently wearing: Jeke by Slumberhouse

  5. #35

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Thanks for these links, Narcus - very entertaining! I have an ambivalent relationship with a large jar of sea kelp bath salts that I have had for years and cannot seem to get to the bottom of, precisely because of this residual grit issue.

    Turin is a towering intellect and an absolute scream, which is quite an usual combination. I would have loved to have gone to the Times/Selfridges Style Lecture he is giving later this month, but it sold out in a day!

    You are lucky having the Osswald Parfumerie um die Ecke...

  6. #36

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Quote Originally Posted by VM I hate civet View Post
    You are lucky having the Osswald Parfumerie um die Ecke....
    ....right, of course! I really don't know why I don't go there more often.
    Last edited by narcus; 17th September 2008 at 08:45 PM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  7. #37
    Lian's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    I always adored octupi and wanted to keep one as a pet, but they are hard to care for because they need entertainment and a escape proof aquarium, knowing Luca Turin appreciates them outside of calamari makes me appreciate the man even more.

    I reckon dead tortoise can give dead octopus a run for its money in bad smell though, dead tortoise left me retching as well for some time and I could not even stomach the idea of having food that day.
    But once you get locked into a serious perfume collection, the tendency is to push it as far as you can.

  8. #38

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008



    Du
    ftnote October 6, 2008

    Real Gardenia

    another tale by Luca Turin
    &
    A beautiful example of paying compliments to others by simply referring to their web publications or supplying their address. Few people are similarly generous !


    ".....I’ll admit one of the few things I am cynical about is gardenia: I’ve smelled too many, from Chanel’s eponymous mess to Guerlain’s cruel joke, that smelled nothing like the real thing. Until proven innocent, I regard all “gardenias” as I do footprints of the Snowman, engines that run on vacuum energy or good wines from Savoie...." the full text


    German language version



    tags: gardenia Coifan Trygve Harris


    Last edited by narcus; 6th October 2008 at 09:55 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  9. #39

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Nice one, thanks as always, narcus. Note the thinly veiled mockery of Creed
    My Wardrobe
    II est de forts parfums pour qui toute matičre/Est poreuse. On dirait qu'ils pénčtrent le verre.
    Currently wearing: Sumare by Crown Perfumery

  10. #40

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    I like Savoyard wines. Oh dear, more proof that I'm a pleb.

    Narcus, thank you for this. Have you been to Oswald's lately? We've just moved, so I'm avoiding the place until I've bought the things I need for the new house.
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729
    Currently wearing: Diorling by Christian Dior

  11. #41

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Hello Narcus:

    I blogged about this gardenia from Trygve back in August - I believe I was the first to obtain it from her. http://anyasgarden.blogspot.com/2008...-hands-in.html

    Now to really tickle your gardenia lust: I received an absolute of Tahitian gardenia recently, complete with GC/MS. Incredible stuff. I'll blog about it soon. Goes for a measly 25,000EU/kg.

    I believe that those of us dedicated to naturals *will* find a solution to the creation of many of the extracts so ignored by the mainstream perfume industry. It's already beginning....on the delicate petals of the gardenia ;-)

    PS my Tahitian gardenia bush started blooming in my garden last week - heavenly!
    Anya McCoy - http://anyasgarden.com/
    Best of the Best awards - Perfume: MoonDance, StarFlower, Amberess, Light, Royal Lotus and as
    Project Leader: Outlaw Perfume and Mystery of Musk
    Basic Perfumery Course with lifetime access to the website - http://perfumeclasses.com
    America's First Natural Perfume Line 1991
    First Artisan Perfumer Voted in as member of the American Society of Perfumery 2013

  12. #42
    zztopp's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    I was aware of Turin's dissatisfaction over gardenia in commercial fragrances. What fragrance comes closest to replicating real gardenias ?
    -

  13. #43

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    I would think Tom Ford's would be the most realistic...blue cheese and all.
    Currently wearing: Dune by Christian Dior

  14. #44

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Quote Originally Posted by zztopp View Post
    I was aware of Turin's dissatisfaction over gardenia in commercial fragrances. What fragrance comes closest to replicating real gardenias ?

    IMO, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz's Nouveau Gardenia.

    Looking forward to trying these gardenia absolutes, though.

  15. #45

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    As always: thank you for all of your kind comments to me, and on the subject, during the month of October, the good life, Wordbird, Natural Juice, zztopp, sofresh and Minou, as well as everybody who has responded during the Months before ! I didn't have the time to post frequently in October but I am always interested to hear an echo. I am only surprised that there is so little criticism here. Judging from comments on the Guide, I thought LT didn't have admirers only. Turin's own blog had been built around his Zurich Scent Notes and I am still missing the lively discussions there. I somehow think you may have been there, maybe under a different name, Natural Juice?

    Statistics seem to confirm that this thread is has been regularly visited by quite a number of people. That encourages me to continue this small service also in 2009.

    Last edited by narcus; 6th November 2008 at 07:33 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  16. #46

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Duftnote November 3, 2008



    Anthropine

    another tale by Luca Turin



    "Anthropine turns out to be an army-knife hybrid of pheromones and homeopathy

    Today, you can send a sample of your own hair to the makers of Anthropine and get globules back. What little is left of my hair could considerably improve the human condition: several women have reported being cured of an expensive and antisocial fondness for Givenchy’s Amarige after only one dose.
    ...." read it all


    German language version
    :

    Homöopathie gegen Givenchy



    tags: Anthropine Amaragie Humor Jaeger


    Last edited by narcus; 6th November 2008 at 07:29 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  17. #47

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Hilarious! Thank you!

  18. #48

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Wonderful, thanks as always Narcus.
    "Don’t try to be original. Be simple. Be good technically, and if there is something in you, it will come out. ” - Henri Matisse.

    "Wear R de Capucci" - Hirch Duckfinder

    reviews

  19. #49
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    The line, 'don’t bother to e-mail me if you disagree, or if you do please remember to dilute one part anger in a trillion parts sugar' got me giggling.
    Currently wearing: Jeke by Slumberhouse

  20. #50

    narcus's Avatar
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008


    Du
    ftnote December 1, 2008




    "Une fantaisie du docteur Ox -Turin" - by Jules Verne


    "...What is remarkable is that clever devices are now abundant in plug-in room smells, piezoelectric sprays with little fans, wax CDs heated by a laser and much else, while the fine fragrance end still sticks to the archaic candle, with all its technical limitations. This at a time when every woman walks down the street speaking into a device with more computing power than the first IBM 360. I think times may be ready to change: one of these days Chanel will team up with Nokia, ask Philippe Starck to design the Zero and sell plug-ins of 5, 18, 19, 22 and other integers."




    Season's Greetings from Narcus



    tags: Universalist;Humor


    Last edited by narcus; 1st December 2008 at 09:06 AM.
    'Il mondo dei profumi č un universo senza limiti: una fraganza puo rievocare sensazioni, luoghi, persone o ancora condurre in uno spazio di nuove dimensioni emozionali' L. V.

  21. #51

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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Quote Originally Posted by narcus View Post


    Du
    ftnote October 6, 2008

    Real Gardenia

    another tale by Luca Turin
    &
    A beautiful example of paying compliments to others by simply referring to their web publications or supplying their address. Few people are similarly generous !


    ".....I’ll admit one of the few things I am cynical about is gardenia: I’ve smelled too many, from Chanel’s eponymous mess to Guerlain’s cruel joke, that smelled nothing like the real thing. Until proven innocent, I regard all “gardenias” as I do footprints of the Snowman, engines that run on vacuum energy or good wines from Savoie...." the full text


    German language version



    tags: gardenia Coifan Trygve Harris


    My Grandma always puts on so much gardenia that it strangles the air in the room!!!

  22. #52
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    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Thanks narcus.

    Just hearing Turin discuss such a device sounds fascinating - I would have loved to have owned such a device. I-Fume!
    "When you become comfortable with uncertainty. infinite possibilities open up in your life"

    -- Eckhart Tolle
    Currently wearing: Jeke by Slumberhouse

  23. #53

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeperez23 View Post
    Thanks narcus.

    Just hearing Turin discuss such a device sounds fascinating - I would have loved to have owned such a device. I-Fume!

    Me too...and I love how hard they tried. Given people's sensitivity to fragrance these days, I think they'd still have trouble unless there was some goofy mood/productivity/health/weight loss/sexual stamina angle.

  24. #54

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Well... since it would be a further expansion into the accessories market I think it's possible. Imagine an atomiser insert in your Chanel mobile phone...
    "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." Coco Chanel

    I'm streamlining my collection http://community.basenotes.net/showt...29#post1219729
    Currently wearing: Diorling by Christian Dior

  25. #55

    Default Re: Luca Turin "Duftnote" - NZZ Folio column 2008

    Quote Originally Posted by Wordbird View Post
    Well... since it would be a further expansion into the accessories market I think it's possible. Imagine an atomiser insert in your Chanel mobile phone...
    I think that would be an interesting way to go, although I personally would rather have a place to store a pen.

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